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#1 (permalink) |
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♥ Megan ♥ [:D]
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Jaipur
Posts: 203
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i have a RTR done around 8800Kms . Previous service was at 5000 and at 7000 i did a oil and filter change without service .Bike goes atleast till 120 on speedo now
now going for reg. service and will stay there whole time to see what all they do 1)what are symptoms of loose tappets and how do they become loose ?where are they located so i can make sure they atleast attempt to set them .arey tappets set on cold engine or hot? 2)whats valve clearence and when's it to be done ? symptoms?where are they ? 3)how is CO settings done ?[its mentioned in manual] what CO value is good ?is CO mentioned on my pollution certificate? Also i've noticed when svc start servicing bikes they rev the bikes very hard and till high Rpms at neutral for 3-6 minutes.It may be to get oil warm to drain it . is it bad to engine to rev it so hard and till high Rpms at neutral ?Anything else i should look out for ? i dont trust service people
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The movie Dhoom is loosely based on my Life * |
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#3 (permalink) |
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D YEZDI 250 1986
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: BHUBANESWAR ( ODISHA )
Posts: 156
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tappet always adjust when the ENGINE is cold ......
n in apache when you r riding rough the tappet noise will increase n after the engine gets cold it becomes normal ....... valve no need to open it till around 15000 or 20000 kms . rest are you getting problems in gear shifting ????
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AutO RacinG, Bull FightinG, and MountaiN climbing are the only real SportS ... all others are GameS.” |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Trivandrum
Posts: 236
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1)
i> Loose tappets may cause tappet noise, change in fuel efficiency, misfiring, and eventually valve damage. ii> They become loose during normal engine use. The tappet and the valve stem hit each other every time the valve is opened, which is thousands of times every minute so they wear. This is normal, just like the drive chain slack increases with use. But tappets last the lifetime of a well maintained engine. iii> The engine has the base, ie. crank/rotor/clutch area. Above this is the cylinder area, the part with the fins. Above this is the cylinder head. On this head, you will find 2 large silver covers (if your engine is black), towards the front and the back. They are circular and have a bolt head. The tappets are under these. The tank has to be removed and they are opened with large size spanners (~24mm). The one towards the carby is the inlet valve tappet and the one towards the front of the bike is the exhaust valve tappet. iv> Tappet clearances are always to be done on a cold engine. Cooled at least 2-4 hours, preferably overnight. TIP: The clearances are set using a feeler gauge. It has flat thin metal strips, sort of like tongue cleaners. They are of different thicknesses and the value is etched on each strip. The strip of the correct thickness, as mentioned by the mfr. is inserted between the tappet and stem and it is tightened till its a snug fit. Then the feeler gauge is removed. The values may be same or different for the inlet and exhaust. CAUTION: Some service center mechanics have the habit of simply tightening it to zero clearance. This will severely and permanently damage your valves and valve seats. 2) I think you are slightly confused. Valve tappet clearance is the gap set between the tappet and the valve stem when both valves are in the closed position. I think your first and second points refer to the same thing. 3) i> CO setting is done by first warming the engine. Then a gas analyzer is connected to a point in the begining of the silencer. Then at idle RPM, the volume control screw is adjusted till the recommended value of CO% is got on the analyzer. ii> I am not sure where the analyzer is connected on the RTR or the recommended value. For P-180 UGIII it is 1.75%-2.25% iii> The CO% on the PUC certificate is not the same because there the analyzer is connected to the end on the silencer. By the time the exhaust has reached the end of the silencer certain chemical changes take place. 4) Its not good to rev the engine to high RPMs immediately after starting if the engine is cold. If it is warm then it is OK. In any case it should be below the redline. Any higher and its bad again. There is no safe choice for revving a stationary vehicle other than neutral as long as the wheel is attached. ![]() Check whether they do all the items mentioned in the manual. Anyway i find it highly unlikely that they will let you into the workshop. |
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