braking issues in my zma - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community

jeetphenom · 07-02-2009, 11:08 AM

Hey guys.. jus finished 1 year on my karizma.. however off late ive been gettin the squeaking sound from my rear brakes and the service fellow jus din do any good abt it.. and my front discs also lettin out mild squeaking sounds.. on asking they said that there must be dust which has to be cleaned.. can anyone suggest me what to do.. I am really not happy wid my beast squealin!!!

ken cool · 07-02-2009, 12:58 PM

Query Approved

Devilpulsarian · 07-02-2009, 01:04 PM

Time to shed off 2300 Rs for Front disc brake pads......

Bestofrivals · 07-02-2009, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeetphenom

Hey guys.. jus finished 1 year on my karizma.. however off late ive been gettin the squeaking sound from my rear brakes and the service fellow jus din do any good abt it.. and my front discs also lettin out mild squeaking sounds.. on asking they said that there must be dust which has to be cleaned.. can anyone suggest me what to do.. I am really not happy wid my beast squealin!!!

I have got the same problem for the last 8-9 months ,trust me i have shown this to showroom guys so many times and they have done with everything from disc pads to disc plate,new brake oil . every possible damn thing they can try but that squeaking sound is still there, braking is ok .

Finally they said that "thodi si pad or disc ki awaaz toh aaegi". a little bit of sound will remain from pads touching disc. and now i have stopped showing this thing to anybody and riding my bike like this way only because braking id fine but sound is there

Old Fox · 07-02-2009, 02:36 PM

To cure the squeaking, you need to clean the brakes. I had put up a 'pictorial walk-through thread for ZMA's disc brake cleaning on the pre-crash forum. Doing it here again.

The problem: The brake lever felt hard, lever travel felt sort of rough which made brake feather and trail braking rather devoid of proper feedback. The brakes squeaked even when the wheel was turned by hand.

The diagnosis: The ZMA has floating callipers and the calliper pins need cleaning and greasing at times, especially during the monsoon. Due to accumulated dust, moisture contamination and possibly traces of rust, the calliper does not float freely on the pins. This affects both brake application and brake release.

Tools needed: see pic below

2. Remove the Axle nut with a 19mm spanner, using the 14mm spanner to hold the head end of the axle to prevent it from rotating.

3. Pull out the axle while supporting the wheel

4. Roll the wheel out, sliding the bottom end side-ways a bit to clear the fender. Make sure you don't touch the disc surface with your fingers. Skin oil or other greasiness could affect braking later.

5. Below is a detail-labelled picture of the disc brake.

6. Unscrew the disc pad pin caps using the flat head screwdriver. Use a driver with a blade that is large enough to fit well into the slot and allows you to apply proper force without slipping and damaging the slot.

7. Beneath the caps, the allen heads of the pad retaining pins become visible

8. Use the 4mm Allen Key to unscrew the retaining pins

9. And pull the pins out

10. The disc pads now hang loose. And you can clearly see the wear-limit grooves. These pads on my bike have another 5000 odd kms left in them considering my riding habits

11. Remove the pads, clean their sides and back with the wire brush and rub the face with emery paper

12. Now you can clearly see the calliper pistons and the pad springs. DO NOT clean any of the parts around the pistons with petrol or kerosene or diesel or any other solvent. You will end up damaging the seals within. A mild soap solution and a soft tooth brush will do the job well enough

13. Grab hold of the calliper body and pull it outwards. (The direction is indicated by the red arrow in the pic below). Small rubber boots similar to their larger cousins on front fork tubes, cover the floating pins. Just pulling firmly and smoothly will allow a clean dis-engage of their sealing lip and the calliper body will slide off as shown

Wipe the pins with a clean cloth, apply new grease (preferably EP - Extreme Pressure type) and reassemble the unit going backwards over the procedure of dis-assembling it.

14. Put in the disc pads starting with the inner one and pushing the retaining pins partially through it

The outer pad has a locating slot on top that engages with a protruding pin on the calliper body. Screw in the retaining pins with the allen key making sure you tighten them properly and screw in the pin caps.

#The disc pads will need to be pried apart a little to allow the disc to get between them when you mount the wheel. Push through the axle (Do not hammer it in if it sticks. There must be some mis-alignment between the various holes for it to get stuck. If it came out easily, it should go in easily too)

#Wash the bike, at least the area you will be working on, to avoid getting unnecessarily dirty/oily hands into places that get damaged by the dirt/oil. (I did not do it but you can be wiser than that

)

## MAKE SURE NO ONE PRESSES THE FRONT BRAKE LEVER WHEN YOU HAVE REMOVED THE FRONT WHEEL. THE PISTONS GET PUSHED THROUGH WHEN THERE IS NO RESISTANCE TO THEIR MOVEMENT AND GETTING THEM BACK IN ENTAILS A LOT OF UNNECESSARY WORK.

# When using the emery paper on the pads, do not rub the emery on the pads. Instead, place the emery on a flat surface and gently slide the pads face down on it. The point is to rub off the top glazing without taking out any miles out of their use

OF

Sarvajit · 07-02-2009, 02:44 PM

Wow Sandeep Sir! I am so happy to see your posts in this thread&also the 'Learn more about a bike' thread. It is so informative, yet easy to comprehend. You explain in layman laguage, which is the best part. If you don't mind, can I ask you a query through PM on my R15 rear disc?

Bestofrivals · 07-02-2009, 04:21 PM

Thanx Sir for the information ,i will definately go through this

ravi@17bhp · 07-02-2009, 10:57 PM

Excellent narration Sandeep Sir. Very very informative.

inder.cool · 07-02-2009, 11:02 PM

Old Fox Ji, if i am not wrong you had posted this once somewhere...but i don't remember that now..

Very nice info for all..!

Old Fox · 07-03-2009, 12:09 PM

Thanks guys. Always game for sharing.

Yes Inder my man....I had posted this on the pre-crash xbhp. Have mentioned it in the beginning of the post.

07-02-2009, 11:08 AM	#1 (permalink)
jeetphenom Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 8	braking issues in my zma Hey guys.. jus finished 1 year on my karizma.. however off late ive been gettin the squeaking sound from my rear brakes and the service fellow jus din do any good abt it.. and my front discs also lettin out mild squeaking sounds.. on asking they said that there must be dust which has to be cleaned.. can anyone suggest me what to do.. I am really not happy wid my beast squealin!!!

07-02-2009, 12:58 PM	#2 (permalink)
ken cool Super Moderator Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: New Delhi Posts: 4,677	Query Approved __________________ The Wheel was a great invention; Two Wheels with a Motor in between was even better! BMW Motorrad Days 2011 Xbhp's Indo-French Kashmir-Ladakh Tour

07-02-2009, 01:04 PM	#3 (permalink)
Devilpulsarian Ridoholic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Bhopal, Pune Posts: 1,296	Time to shed off 2300 Rs for Front disc brake pads...... __________________ 2002 - Pulsar 150 Classic (Still owned) 2005 - Pulsar 150 Dtsi (Still owned) 2006 - Eterno (sold) 2008 - Dio (Owned) 2009 - Pulsar 220 DTSi

07-02-2009, 02:36 PM	#5 (permalink)
Old Fox Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Noida Posts: 669	To cure the squeaking, you need to clean the brakes. I had put up a 'pictorial walk-through thread for ZMA's disc brake cleaning on the pre-crash forum. Doing it here again. The problem: The brake lever felt hard, lever travel felt sort of rough which made brake feather and trail braking rather devoid of proper feedback. The brakes squeaked even when the wheel was turned by hand. The diagnosis: The ZMA has floating callipers and the calliper pins need cleaning and greasing at times, especially during the monsoon. Due to accumulated dust, moisture contamination and possibly traces of rust, the calliper does not float freely on the pins. This affects both brake application and brake release. Tools needed: see pic below 2. Remove the Axle nut with a 19mm spanner, using the 14mm spanner to hold the head end of the axle to prevent it from rotating. 3. Pull out the axle while supporting the wheel 4. Roll the wheel out, sliding the bottom end side-ways a bit to clear the fender. Make sure you don't touch the disc surface with your fingers. Skin oil or other greasiness could affect braking later. 5. Below is a detail-labelled picture of the disc brake. 6. Unscrew the disc pad pin caps using the flat head screwdriver. Use a driver with a blade that is large enough to fit well into the slot and allows you to apply proper force without slipping and damaging the slot. 7. Beneath the caps, the allen heads of the pad retaining pins become visible 8. Use the 4mm Allen Key to unscrew the retaining pins 9. And pull the pins out 10. The disc pads now hang loose. And you can clearly see the wear-limit grooves. These pads on my bike have another 5000 odd kms left in them considering my riding habits 11. Remove the pads, clean their sides and back with the wire brush and rub the face with emery paper 12. Now you can clearly see the calliper pistons and the pad springs. DO NOT clean any of the parts around the pistons with petrol or kerosene or diesel or any other solvent. You will end up damaging the seals within. A mild soap solution and a soft tooth brush will do the job well enough 13. Grab hold of the calliper body and pull it outwards. (The direction is indicated by the red arrow in the pic below). Small rubber boots similar to their larger cousins on front fork tubes, cover the floating pins. Just pulling firmly and smoothly will allow a clean dis-engage of their sealing lip and the calliper body will slide off as shown Wipe the pins with a clean cloth, apply new grease (preferably EP - Extreme Pressure type) and reassemble the unit going backwards over the procedure of dis-assembling it. 14. Put in the disc pads starting with the inner one and pushing the retaining pins partially through it The outer pad has a locating slot on top that engages with a protruding pin on the calliper body. Screw in the retaining pins with the allen key making sure you tighten them properly and screw in the pin caps. #The disc pads will need to be pried apart a little to allow the disc to get between them when you mount the wheel. Push through the axle (Do not hammer it in if it sticks. There must be some mis-alignment between the various holes for it to get stuck. If it came out easily, it should go in easily too) #Wash the bike, at least the area you will be working on, to avoid getting unnecessarily dirty/oily hands into places that get damaged by the dirt/oil. (I did not do it but you can be wiser than that) ## MAKE SURE NO ONE PRESSES THE FRONT BRAKE LEVER WHEN YOU HAVE REMOVED THE FRONT WHEEL. THE PISTONS GET PUSHED THROUGH WHEN THERE IS NO RESISTANCE TO THEIR MOVEMENT AND GETTING THEM BACK IN ENTAILS A LOT OF UNNECESSARY WORK. # When using the emery paper on the pads, do not rub the emery on the pads. Instead, place the emery on a flat surface and gently slide the pads face down on it. The point is to rub off the top glazing without taking out any miles out of their use OF __________________ I don't let my motorcycles interfere with my motorcycling... Join xBhp On

07-02-2009, 02:44 PM	#6 (permalink)
Sarvajit バイカ　ボイズ Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Hyderabad Posts: 5,073	Wow Sandeep Sir! I am so happy to see your posts in this thread&also the 'Learn more about a bike' thread. It is so informative, yet easy to comprehend. You explain in layman laguage, which is the best part. If you don't mind, can I ask you a query through PM on my R15 rear disc? __________________ Quench my thirst with gasoline! Last edited by Sarvajit; 07-02-2009 at 02:46 PM.

07-02-2009, 04:21 PM	#7 (permalink)
Bestofrivals Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Battle city, panipat Posts: 449	Thanx Sir for the information ,i will definately go through this __________________ CAUTION: One Gear Left

07-02-2009, 10:57 PM	#8 (permalink)
ravi@17bhp The Explorer Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Hyderabad Posts: 3,875	Excellent narration Sandeep Sir. Very very informative.

07-02-2009, 11:02 PM	#9 (permalink)
inder.cool Senior xBhpian Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Pune Posts: 5,838	Old Fox Ji, if i am not wrong you had posted this once somewhere...but i don't remember that now.. Very nice info for all..! __________________ Facebook \| Duke Pics

07-03-2009, 12:09 PM	#10 (permalink)
Old Fox Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Noida Posts: 669	Thanks guys. Always game for sharing. Yes Inder my man....I had posted this on the pre-crash xbhp. Have mentioned it in the beginning of the post. __________________ I don't let my motorcycles interfere with my motorcycling... Join xBhp On

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