Query Approved.

how much did the bike run....???

When did you change your clutch plates?

aaah!!!
the wind 125
the best bike ever...
such memories..
while i had one for 3 years never had major problems..except once when the throttle cable broke and the bike had a different cable so took me 20 days to the replacement...
have the engine checked out a friend had a similar problem they said timing chain or something...the bike was making a grating kind out sound then...

How much Kms have you clocked?

Is there any oil leakage near and around the cylinder?

Hows the condition of the air filter?

You should take the bike to a service center and have it checked thoroughly and let us know.

OT: After reading your topic heading i thought you meant that your bike has started farting (wind knocked out)

@ hydbiker

never had the clutch plates changed but it surely isnt a clutch problem.. because its the engine that loses power and is unable to rev up even in neutral. if it was a clutch slip issue then the engine would be revvin but the bike wouldnt be movin.
the bikes run at least 25-30k.. cant say for sure because the odo n speedo havent worked for at least 2-3yrs .

@swingarm
no oil leaks. went to auth service but all he tried to fix were electrical gremlins. didnt work

@harshadguru
i too feel that this bike was the best ever in the market, just lost out due Bajaj's marketing games . a truly versatile bike.

@all
thanks for the responses guys.
jus gave the bike to my local mech and he's shown me the valves, timing chain and piston ring all as the problem.. he's gonna put in a new piston kit and new valves. i was kinda expectin this so really hoping that it solves the problem.. will keep u posted on what happens

i'd say get it done at the bajaj service center.
or do it d.i.y
blueprinting would'nt hurt you.so try to go for it.

not sure abt the piston rings but as Harsha mentioned, it can be the timing chain and the valves... All the best in getting the Wind back into life... please do continue to post your experiences after the operation

hey guys, sorry that i couldnt keep the thread updated, had exams.. and by the way, none of the changes has provided the solution to the damn problem. the mech even checked the CDI and the problem's not in there either... but he keeps sayin that the engine spark is coming on way too strong.. any suggestions as to what can be causing this?? my exams are done so now i can pursue this much further

ahh.. the WIND.. i learnt my riding on this one...

now coming to the spark plug thing.

a strong spark is good afaik.. but.. lets c..

sticking to the basics.. i am guessing the clutch plates need to be checkd out along with the timing..

the RPM issue is quite common to the clutch and the timing chain part.. so check it out. also check the chain and sprockt..

i dont think its the clutch thats the problem, because its the engine that is unable to rev up. if it was the clutch, the engine would b revving hard with no pull from the bike. the problems the exact opposite. it seems like the bikes coughing at certain RPMs and cant muster up enough power to accelerate..
i initially thought that it could be a choked line somewher, is it possible?
all the work the mechs done was futile, problems not solved.. but i have noticed that the bike gets hot very quickly and the mileage seems to have dropped.. can this be a sign of the carburettor not bein properly set???

did this problem come up suddenly eh ?

i think ive just experienced this issue in a g2g very recently
my bike suddenly wouldnt go beyond 5k, heavy misfiring.

i own a cbz-x

the problem is NOT mechanical here , the bike's ignition coil has gone. even though its sparking at low revs, its not able to keep up with the rpm. this happened to me to be exact. i bet your mechanic hasn't checked the sparks at higher revvs

if the valves and timing chain would have gone, you couldnt even RIDE it properly at low speeds even. the problem wouldnt vanish at lower rpms

have the ignition coil changed its a huge capacitor which has the spark plug wire comnig out of it dunno about the availability of spares though

btw do not go for any "sasta" coil ... it doesnt come cheaper than 300 rs, so better if you can , put in an original spare...

carburettor and heating issue

first check whether you're running lean, mechanics tend to make older bikes more leaner to "maintain" the fuel efficiency, otherwise most people would be pissed off at their bikes not giving mileage , not realising that wear n tear eventually does bring the efficiency down.

also your engine wastes energy if not working in the proper temperature , which is certainly related to the engine running hotter. also as i have mentioned, the sparks in the engine MAY not be proper even though it seems strong (it has to be strong and also at the exact time when required.)

if you aren't running lean , please check whether your bike emits even a tad of white smoke, which indicates that its burning oil as well, which means that the piston and/or rings have gone.

also make sure that tappits and compression is okay

@Xenologik
man u seem to have figured out my problem exactly, but in the past few days i just havnt had a chance to go and get the thing fixed.. i hope that your suggestions the right solution
btw, lately the tacho on my bike's gone wild.. its seems to shoot up out of range whenever i rev beyond 4-5k.. it also jumps whenever i use any of the instruments which use battery power, even while braking.. i think that the circuits shorted sumwhere.. but could this issue be related to the ignition coil again??

hahahah it seems we share some common problems

if you think the bike's fuel line is jammed then use the petrol bottle with the outlet which the mechanics have. its usually a 500ml bottle with a fuel pipe connected to it and the bottle also has a petrol tap. all you have to do is to connect the bottle's pipe to the carburettor and somehow carry the bottle (i hang it on the handlebars.) have a test ride after that and see the bike's behaviour. if it becomes normal then the tank's outlet is choked and thus the fuel might be slowly coming.

if it isnt have the ignition coil checked.

coming to your recent rpm meter's crazy movements

the rpm meter goes wild when there's insufficient current from the battery. the battery might not be getting charged / or the dc wiring might have gone bad (they can break/ get cut .. ) the fuse would be intact because if the fuse's blown out then the rpm meter, horn etc wouldnt work at all.

the headlight is directly connected to the alternator so the headlight's dont depend on the battery. even the ignition coil doesn't depend on the battery since its run by alternating current. so the rpm meter jumping isn't related to the ignition coil by any means. you can run your bike without a battery , the sparks would still be there.

there's a little confusion related to the electricals though. the rpm meter in my bike runs erratically when the battery is not present. if i switch the headlights on and im not idling, the rpm meter works fine. but as soon as i press the horn, indicator, or the bike idles / the headlight isnt switched on (headlight or the parking light) the rpm meter jumps to 10-11k