Pulsar 220 DTSI - Page 53 - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community

Praful · 07-25-2009, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rahul9985

u are going way to theoretical dude... i suggest the motomans way of hard run in.. i asked them to change the engine oil at 200 so that they'll get rid of the metal shavings which come coz of the new parts.. the way u have explained things is strictly according to the theory or the manufacturer's manual.. but the hard run in method or the motomans way sets u apart from the rest of the others.. and the run in, the bikes run in is already 90%+ done before it comes to ur hand... only 1 thing should be kept in mind for a new bike, dont race hard.. doesnt matter at what rpm u make the shifts as long as they are below 7.5k rpm..
and the run in is entirely personal and depends on person to person.. remember a sports bike gives shattering performance but only lasts a few races.. but the same bike with manual kinda run in cant stand a chance in the race...

Did you check the oil? Did it have shavings?

Or are you trying to say that manufacturers with multi-billion dollar budgets for RnD are a bunch of fools, who one day got drunk and decided to write the instruction manual for their vehicles....?

rahul9985 · 07-25-2009, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parry122

Thanks Rahul for advice

Yes I try touching knee onto the road, but with all proper gear, Jacket, Knee guards & nice helmet......... havent been able to do it great but, again its an old pulsar and worn tyres, from a friend.

New 220 must be great to do that, with better & all new tyres.....

Ahhhhh Main stand thing is really making me think now!! I at times might need to off roads a bit too. so I might get hung somewhere.....

@Vikas R15 & Rahul, you guys dint tell me the 0 to 60 timing for 220!

One more query! does gear shifting after 1000 to 1500 still brings a thump?

Parry!

i dont know the 0-60 timing of the new P220 DTS-i as i dont own one.. i have an FI.. but taking the reports into consideration it should do it better than an FI.. i think it should be around 3.9-4 seconds..
it never gave me a thump...

rahul9985 · 07-25-2009, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prafultripathy

Did you check the oil? Did it have shavings?

Or are you trying to say that manufacturers with multi-billion dollar budgets for RnD are a bunch of fools, who one day got drunk and decided to write the instruction manual for their vehicles....?

yup i checked them.. there were little.. and the oil was not at all viscous at time of change which is 500 kms...
dude thats only a suggestion for the pure performance entusuiasts.. no one is going to try it out unless they cross check the info with someone they know... u can check this info with any automobile engineer.. forget the service engineer of bajaj..

Praful · 07-25-2009, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rahul9985

yup i checked them.. there were little.. and the oil was not at all viscous at time of change which is 500 kms...
dude thats only a suggestion for the pure performance entusuiasts.. no one is going to try it out unless they cross check the info with someone they know... u can check this info with any automobile engineer.. forget the service engineer of bajaj..

Lol man!

I am really interested to know how you checked the shavings?

And who may these automobile engineers be, the ones who work for Honda/Yamaha/TVS/Bajaj???

rahul9985 · 07-25-2009, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prafultripathy

Lol man!

I am really interested to know how you checked the shavings?

And who may these automobile engineers be, the ones who work for Honda/Yamaha/TVS/Bajaj???

simple dude.. once the engine oil is drained out, take it and pour it on the floor.. i poured it on my balcony tiles in the evening time. try throwing low intensity light on it and u can actually see light reflecting from the silvery engine shavings.. there are better ways also.. but i wanted proof..
or try pouring little quantity of it in a plastic cover and see through it against the light.. u can see the obstructions/ solid particles in the engine oil...

u can try asking the service engineers of the yamaha guys in ur city.. ask the service engineer of the branch which deals with the import of the R1 and MT01.. u can also interact with the service engineer who comes from Yamaha Racing, Japan once every month and get all ur doubts cleared...

arunmur · 07-25-2009, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rahul9985

u are going way to theoretical dude... i suggest the motomans way of hard run in.. i asked them to change the engine oil at 200 so that they'll get rid of the metal shavings which come coz of the new parts.. the way u have explained things is strictly according to the theory or the manufacturer's manual.. but the hard run in method or the motomans way sets u apart from the rest of the others.. and the run in, the bikes run in is already 90%+ done before it comes to ur hand... only 1 thing should be kept in mind for a new bike, dont race hard.. doesnt matter at what rpm u make the shifts as long as they are below 7.5k rpm..
and the run in is entirely personal and depends on person to person.. remember a sports bike gives shattering performance but only lasts a few races.. but the same bike with manual kinda run in cant stand a chance in the race...

I dont know if this applies to the special Indian bikes, with high quality parts. I have seen quite a few Fiero and CBZ engines sieze because people drive about 80kmph within the first 1000 kms. I doubt Pulsar engines are any better.

The engine is actually only 95% odd finished when it comes to your hand. They are virtually never run with a load. They just do a verity of tests on the engine to ensure that its producing the right amount of power and stuff(+/- variance acceptable by the company) which totals at the max about 5-6hrs max. The cylinder walls will still be pretty machine finished and when run with a load the pistons dig into the walls causing the shavings. If there are big pieces of shavings in the oil there are good chances of seizure(may not happen with every body), this is why the manufacturers dont suggest hard run-in. A hard run-in on the other hand frees the piston quicker than the fast run-in making it ready to race before 10,000 kms.

Finally i dont think any of our manufacturers use low friction/non-additive oil and non-paper element filter during run in. So if you still want my suggestion stick to the run-in, it makes a huge difference to the life of the engine.

psycho28 · 07-25-2009, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by psycho28

how much mili liter engine oil does it required, i haven't got the manual till now

Any help ???

rahul9985 · 07-25-2009, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arunmur

I dont know if this applies to the special Indian bikes, with high quality parts. I have seen quite a few Fiero and CBZ engines sieze because people drive about 80kmph within the first 1000 kms. I doubt Pulsar engines are any better.

The engine is actually only 95% odd finished when it comes to your hand. They are virtually never run with a load. They just do a verity of tests on the engine to ensure that its producing the right amount of power and stuff(+/- variance acceptable by the company) which totals at the max about 5-6hrs max. The cylinder walls will still be pretty machine finished and when run with a load the pistons dig into the walls causing the shavings. If there are big pieces of shavings in the oil there are good chances of seizure(may not happen with every body), this is why the manufacturers dont suggest hard run-in. A hard run-in on the other hand frees the piston quicker than the fast run-in making it ready to race before 10,000 kms.

Finally i dont think any of our manufacturers use low friction/non-additive oil and non-paper element filter during run in. So if you still want my suggestion stick to the run-in, it makes a huge difference to the life of the engine.

well, there are many factors apart from these.. to avoid engine seizure i suggested flushing the oil at 200 kms..
and dude my bikes run in is over way back.. 11k kms run in 6 months... i have personally noticed the difference of my friends 220's that scream a lot to revv hard.. i can do that pretty easily.. and i shift at 8.5k rpm and i havent found a single 220 except one(as it was running on free flow and modified gearing) coping up with me... iam not boasting but u'll surely find the difference between a soft run in and a hard run in... and after buying a bike worth 93k, i dont mind spending for the repairs coz of wear and tear of the engine..

Quote:

Originally Posted by psycho28

Any help ???

the optimum engine oil level is between 1.2L and 1.3L

Praful · 07-25-2009, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rahul9985

dude my bikes run in is over way back.. 11k kms run in 6 months... i have personally noticed the difference of my friends 220's

I ran in my bike hard too....dint find any damn difference!

Like every other bike engine really opened up after 10K kms, maybe thats what you are feeling too.

rahul9985 · 07-25-2009, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prafultripathy

I ran in my bike hard too....dint find any damn difference!

Like every other bike engine really opened up after 10K kms, maybe thats what you are feeling too.

there is some difference.. as i said the needle climbs faster comparatively.. i could see the difference from the initial stages itself...
u are saying u also ran quite hard.. do u face any problems now?

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
ABS for Pulsar 150 DTSi UG3	kecha	Help Me!	16	05-26-2011 11:35 PM
pulsar 220 dtsi clutch plate set in pulsar 180 dtsi ug III	sumanmj	Help Me!	10	01-20-2011 12:51 AM
Synthetic Oil for Pulsar 150 DTSi	jacobkjacob	Help Me!	40	03-21-2010 10:28 PM
[What Bike]: Pulsar 220 dtsi or R15	sunny503	What Bike?	67	12-15-2009 09:07 AM
Help with Pulsar 150 DTSi	rakeshkn	Help Me!	6	09-11-2009 07:15 AM

Register Now for FREE!
Are you registered on xBhp yet? If not, do so now and start participating to be able to share photos and experiences with other members. It will also enable to you have a chance to be a part of xBhp contests and roadtrips in the future! Username: Password: Confirm Password: E-Mail: Confirm E-Mail: Birthday: Image Verification I agree to forum rules