Amit05

Hi folks,

After 254 hours(10.5days) and 3400Kms, I realise the adjectives are so inadequate to express the experience of a solo bike ride to Rann of Kutch and Gujarat as a whole.. If awesome is 40 out of 100, I would rate my experience to be at 75.. One of the best 10 days of my life...

Let me know if you folks would have the patience of reading a detailed travelogue.

N.B:- This is my first post on the group. Hi to everyone.

Regards,
Amit
My soul rides on electra 4s 2007 model.

MG

Topic Approved

Bring on the travelogue please

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mansuryayas

I'm from Ahmedabad and a few of the Ahmedabad group are planning to travel to Kutch, so do post your Travelogue ASAP.

kevinlane

Bring it on, Dude. We are all eyes & ears.

wanderlustindia

Fantastic Amit! I have a similar one in mind so if you could please spell out the route it would be of tremendous help. I have 13-15 days in hand in early Feb and want to put that to best use (read motorcyle ride :-) ).

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mansuryayas

3 Fellow xBHPians have left today to Explore the unExplored KUTCH. Lets see what memories they bring back

Amit05

Sorry guys for the delay. Here is my travelogue goes.


The gist: While on a long ride, particularly alone, there comes a moment when every rider is at the zenith of frustration, fear and fatigue. I had that moment on the night of 31st December after being lost in the vast expanse of 70,000 sq.kms of Greater Rann of Kutch and could reach to safe zone only by 11.35 PM. The night of welcoming 2012 will always be in my memories till I live.
Rann of Kutch(RoK) trip was a haphazard replacement of hitherto wishful plan of Sikkim, Bhutan and Tawang but that trip was going beyond resources and wasting a precious year-end vacation without a ride was a sin beyond redemption.
So I started from Pune on 24th December’2011 at 2PM with no plan, no studies and neither a zilch of inklings of places to stay. Except your own life, when you have nothing to loose, the thrills of uncertainty are boundless. But this time, I was a better rider, more confident, well equipped and the biggest of all, was riding a Royal Enfield Electra. How in the last travelogue of my trip to Karnataka at http://www.bikenomads.com/forum/index.php?topic=278.0, I yearned for one and lo the almighty sent one for me in a dramatic style.

The bride of a bull: Just as a man who starts finding solace in his wife’s company only after attempts of straying out turn futile, I too reposed my faith on Fiero F2 ceding the dream of a bullet as an unfinished one consoling myself with apprehensions of its manageability. Seemingly though, destiny had a different agenda. After soda-bottle enthusiasms, flip-flops and some dramatic exchange of words involving me, the seller and a dear friend who was initially supposed to buy; it was me who ended up homing the bride.

Revving up: 6 months and no ride – Blasphemy. As an act of penance, did a Pune-Mumbai ride via Bhor, Mahad and NH17 and did a Pune-Goa in November for Rider Mania with Roadshakers.

Goa trip: Goa ride had its own share of drama. Failing to join my group early morning, I could hit NH-4 only by 6Pm. The excitement of a first long ride on the bull dampened when the On/Off switch went kaput bringing the bike to an abrupt halt right on the highway near Kapurwadhi junction. All resuscitation attempts failed. Fortunately, a mechanic was only a few meters away. After initial reluctance, he looked at the issue and fixed it to my short-lived pleasure. Just 80 kms later, a nudge at my calf made me apprehensive of battery cover coming off but was shocked to see the battery itself dangling. Fantastic I said! 9.00 PM, lone highway, pitch dark, nothing to tie the battery. After twenty minutes of scrambling, lady luck comes to my rescue. Out of no where, a man appears from the bushes apparently to switch on some water supply valve. He gives me a piece of wire to tie the battery but now the On/Off switch issue resurfaces. So, I and this good Samaritan are struggling to fix that issue. He also calls his rookie friend to assist and after enormous trial and error we get the bike working by11Pm. Their unexpected kindness was overwhelming as I felt so humbled in expressing my gratitude to them. Missed opportunity to relish mutton at Uppal in Kolhapur was regretful as it was 1AM by the time I reached the toll just before Kolhapur. Gulped a few glasses of hot milk and savored omelets. Also met a fellow martyr, Rishubh Matharoo, who was also riding to RM. Producer with ET now, our champion was riding without gloves and was shivering like wet cat. We shared our misery and decided to ride together and reached Vagator at 7.30AM riding Amboli ghat through the night. Riding with Rishubh was a great learning experience. What a ride!

The ‘aghaaz’ of the tour: Back to NH-8, the RoK caravan made its first night halt at Jampore beach at Daman, a heaven for drinkers but hell for revellers. Chandrika and China town are only choice to stay. Later is costly. After unsuccessful attempts to put up with some locals, I settled at Chandrika in a room which had no beddings. Fortunately I was carrying them so negotiated the room for Rs.200, had dinner and slept at 11.30Pm. Jogging on the beach at 7.30AM is so refreshing but this beach is dirty. Even saw some idiots defecating on the beach itself. Yukkk!!! Beat a hasty retreat, got ready and went to a small shack to relish the BEST POMFRET I HAVE EVER HAD. The Ginger-Garlic-turmeric preparation was already delicious and then a dash of home-grown lemon on it…Mouth-watering? Can’t help It.! After leaving Daman at around 12, it was just me, the bull and the highway with breaks only for fuel, tea and lunch. Strayed on expressway after Vadodara but was politely turned back by the cops. Lost an hour in the process and reached Ahmedabad by 9.30PM. Found a cheap and comfortable accommodation for 200/- at Swagat lodge opposite Big Bazaar on Raipur-Kankaria road.

On 26th December, by the time I made my way through heavy traffic of Ahmedabad, it was already 4PM as fixing of bike’s speedometer/Odometer and tuning of gears and lights sucked hours. Body was still tired but I was adamantly pursuing an impractical goal of reaching Bhuj by night. Crossed Viramgam and just before Mondal, a signboard of Wild Ass Santuary, Kharagoud was pointing towards left at 27 Kms while the straight road would reach Dasada. I approached a local for some guidance but he personified “Ghar ki murgi daal baraabar” wondering if there was anything interesting about the place. To prevent further assaults on my enthusiasm, I took refuge in my “Motorola defy” scouring various forums online and decided to go to Dasada to check with Rann Riders, a resort run by former rulers of the region. The negotiation was bound to fail as I had my money to save and they their level of dignity to preserve. So, I rode further and stopped by a tea shack to think of next step in view of severe cold and tiredness. By now I had realized that with the paraphernalia, I have been the cynosure of all eyes inspiring curiosity and awe all across which worked to my advantage. As I decided to move on after tea and a solo-strategy-meet, one elderly gentleman, fondly called Idusa, offered me a stay in a nearby room across the road. This room was occupied by a lone, handicapped man Wazir. Ironically, a family which takes care of “Wazir” is headed by “Fakir”. God, you and your wonderful world!

The condition of the room is left for your imagination but my dislike for it was guessed by Idusa. So he offered his place which I guessed to be better. Now that I was hedged from dying in cold, I thought of a plan. Why not search for better accommodation under the pretext of dinner? But Dasada and Mondal are small hamlets 14 kms apart with only 2 guest houses between them in addition to Rann riders. One was unreasonable and the other occupied. Had dinner and went back to the shack where Idusa had instructed a young sweet lad (I regret forgetting his name) to guide me. Even now, Idusa’s home was locked compelling me to stay put with Wazir. Laid down my own mat and bedding and meekly went to sleep. Around 5.30AM, a foul smell woke me up after which I could not sleep further. Spent the rest of the morning near the fire-place at the tea stall where a man offered to escort me till Adriayana on my way to Little Rann through Zhanzhadwada. I am still not sure whether that was a right call as I missed Wild Ass Sanctuary though I did had my date with Little Rann.

Little Rann: A hugely revered shrine of a saint, Vasra dada is 25 kms from a small village of Vasatpura from where the little Rann begins. Except a few huts initially, little Rann is a vast expanse of dried land where it is very easy to lose your way were those white stones not kept for direction. Rann was freezing cold even at noon when I arrived at the temple. Had free lunch and decided to do an off-road ride to Palasvan crossing the little Rann. This would not only save me nearly 200 Kms of ride to Bhuj but would also give me a huge sense of achievement having crossed the Rann alone. Signs looked auspicious too. A small board showed Palasvan to be just 52 Kms away and a local chap shortened that distance further with his encouraging words. I confidently followed a tractor track feeling victorious before actually fighting the battle. So wrong was I! After15 Kms, the track started misleading me. The direction of the track was leading to a different place as per my GPS and for Palasvan, there was no track per se. The prospects of loosing out at Rann are quite high. A 360 degree view would only be of monotonous landscape and if you miss your track, feel doomed. Did you hear a joke of finding a corner in a circle? Well, it’s not a joke anymore.
I continued riding for a few kms keeping track of the route I came from but to my misery, the track forked out. I saw a couple of trucks few kilometers away on the left side of my track. Tried riding perpendicular towards them but they were too far and out of my reach. Returned to my track and luckily saw another truck on my right. Desperately waved and honked at them. Fortunately they saw me and stopped. Sped towards them and almost lost my balance on the loose and broken soil. My apprehension that the track I was following would not have led me to Palasvan was true but the truck driver too looked perplexed of the correct route. Returned disappointed and lo my original track was not be located. God!! That sunken feeling of being lost started to seep in my heart but I kept my calm. I drank some water and lay over the ground just relaxing, acknowledging and enjoying the serenity and seclusion. The peace and tranquility at Rann was so soothing that I forgot to worry about being lost. Were I was carrying a tent and a sleeping bag, I might even had spent a night. A while later, a little scouring with a cool mind helped me find my track but returning without giving another try was unacceptable so I risked following my GPS and moved ahead on the uncharted route towards Palasvan but riding was impossible as the land was broken and loose causing imbalance. Finally, with a dejected heart, I decided to quit and reach Bhuj back through the highway. Any rider worth his salt would hate to return back from the same route while going. The quitting act saddened me for the rest of the day.

Frost and Fatigue: Reached Sami via Sankeshwar by 5PM, had heavy snacks and charged my phone but the network issue made me a little anxious. Got relief only by 7.30PM when I reached Radhanpur and spoke at home after 2 days but that dejection of loosing out at Rann drained my enthusiasm as I contemplated calling it a day. Nevertheless, I stubbornly decided to ride to Bhuj which was nearly 250Kms. As if the cold night and mental fatigue were not enough, the monotonously mundane road of NH 27 (SH 220) closed ranks to test my endurance. Most of the sparsely scattered dhabas do not have lodging facility and to make matters worse, the ones which had were fully occupied owing to Panchayat election the next day. Every sight of light on the dark highway would give me a sense of hope of rest and sleep only to end in disappointment. I realized how big an enemy fatigue can be once it grips a rider. Riding even a kilometer feels like a curse but I had no choice. After riding for nearly 90kms, I came across a police check-post. The cops started searching for a clue of any illegal possession (read alcohol) but were amused to find a rider in me rather than a smuggler or a terrorist. I was so frustrated that I was speaking in a very straight and cocky tone with them and at one of my cocky reply; one cop was in splits laughing. He went around sharing my comment with all his colleagues and eventually offered me to sleep at the post but it had no protection from cold so he suggested a Punjabi Dhaba on the opposite side of highway a few kms away. I hurriedly sped towards it and after having a complete recce of me, the benevolent sardar empathically offered me his store room to sleep which was pretty decent by all standards and anyway I was a beggar who was not a chooser. For some time, chatted with Sujit who shared his horrible days in Malaysian jail after being imprisoned of illegal immigration. I don’t recall when I fell fast asleep.

Dholavira:Got up late, freshened up and relaxed at the Dhaba. The Sardars at Ekta Dhaba treated me as one of their own relative and touched me with their hospitality. Meanwhile, a group of elderly folks stopped by at the Dhaba and one of them picked up a conversation with me of course looking at the MH12 number. Pune? Yes. They were from Mumbai and the conversation end with me getting all the necessary information for Dholavira from them as they were returning from there only. Bingo! My further course of journey was planned. Quickly got started with a bang after thanking the sardars and raced towards Rapar from where the right turn takes you to Bhuj and left to Dholavira. Also, Rapar is the last town before Dholaveera hence it is advisable to tank up and buy necessary things. I bought a thick bedsheet to prevent myself from dying in case I don’t get a night shelter. The previous night’s chilling experience had sent shivers down my spine.
95kms ride from Rapar to Dholaveera is fun. Narrow but very well laid roads and almost traffic free with a marvel in between. The bridge that connects Khadir bet, an island on which Dholavira is located, is a heaven for riders, bird watchers, photographers and nature-lovers. It makes its way through the shallow sea with thousands of flamingoes and other migratory birds on either side of the road in the sea which makes it an amazing sight. Saw some enthusiasts waiting for hours with their tele-lenses to capture the beauty. How I missed the possession of a DSLR camera!
Reached the Govt. run guest house by 6Pm riding just 150Kms. Rooms at the guest house are in the shape of Bajania huts. Rs.350/- for non-AC and Rs.500 for AC. I chose the former and networked with couple of guys from Anand. One elderly person of the group, Mr. Daulat Singh, is an encyclopedia of Gujarat. Also met a Mumbai couple at the campfire after dinner where we planned to ride together to Fossil Park the next day. Woke up next morning after a refreshing sleep and leisurely took 2 hours to get ready after which we rode towards Wood fossil. A triple seat to-and-fro ride of 19 kms across thick desert sand was a test of my riding skills and my bike’s power and I can proudly claim that both of us passed out with flying colors.

Wood fossil is a huge tree trunk, 18 crore years old, resembling a stone but its roots can be seen with a closer look. The nearby sea is shallow and dries up during summers but was full of water this time. After a few photo sessions, we moved towards BSF post of Karni. The fossil park is also a watch post for BSF sentries who keep vigil round the clock and feel very happy when tourists go and meet them. BSF barracks at Karni, is a km away from the fossil park. Ideally, one should never drive in any army barracks directly but out of ignorance, I rode my bike inside it which annoyed the personnel. We quickly realized the mistake after being reprimanded and apologized after which the cordial BSF folks offered us water and biscuits and chatted for few minutes. On our way back, we visited the excavated Harrappan city.

This city is believed to be nearly 5000 years old and is spread across couple of sq. kilometers with distinct citadel (seat of the govt.), midtown (colony of middle-class) and downtown (laborer colony). Our guide Mr.Jayamalbhai Makhwana, a local of Dholavira, was part of excavation team since 22 years. He brought forth those aspects of history which left us in amazement of the planning and strategic skills of those who lived in that era. The water management of the city will put even the best of municipality of our country to shame. Jyamalbhai also gave us an opportunity to escape from the boring food of the guest house by arranging our dinner with a local family. The meal comprised of Bajra roti, a green vegetable, jaggery, ghee and buttermilk. What a sumptuous dinner it was..!

Magnificence of White Rann: Next day at 11.30am, started for Bhuj and breezed till Rapar covering 95kms in 70mins giving lift to local folks in between villages. Plan was to reach Kala Dungar and watch the sun-set but miserably failed as it was already 6.00 PM when I reached Bhuj and sun-set point was 70 kms further. Mr. Daulatsingh gave me the contact of Amit Thakkar, a local hotelier from Bhuj and a bullet enthusiast himself. Amit arranged my stay in his comfortable guest house and my day came to an easy end riding just 250 kms. Had dinner at Bhuj and retired early.
Left Bhuj for White Rann in the morning of 31st December first reaching Bhirandiyana to obtain permission to visit Dhordo and Kala Dungar. Being close to border, these are notified areas and it is advisable for tourists to get the permission though I realized that it was just a pretext to collect money for Rann Utsav.
Kala Dungar is the highest point of Gujarat, famous for its sunset point and a Dutt mandir on the hill-top. An interesting phenomenon happens at 12 noon and 6Pm. A group of jackals from adjoining forest eat the food kept on a special platform. Only after jackals are done with, the food is served to devotees. I missed both the sunset and jackal’s feast but relished the simple yet tasty, hot food. After Kala Dungar, rode to India Gate which is the last point till civilians are allowed as Indo-Pak border is further 70kms away. I spent an hour on the bridge, chatting with BSF jawans before heading towards Dhordo via Bhirandiyana.
Dhordo is a small village and the venue for much touted Rann Utsav which I was least interested in seeing and went straight to White Rann which is 6 kms from this venue. White Rann is a magnificent sight of a sea which gets completely dried up leaving a thick layer of salt behind. All you see is the white-ness and the horizon. During sunset, the reflection of sun makes the white look saffron and the site looks fabulous. I heard that it looks awesome on a moonlit night. I had to give it a miss.

Off-road adventure: With an off-road ride still itching me, I decided to reach Matanomadh, my next destination, through the Rann instead of the highway. A BSF jawan assured me of a route albeit a little labyrinthine and arduous. As per his advice, I tried to first reach Agro-cell factory situated in the Rann and then locate the BSF post of Udema from where I should take directions for Naana-battera and then to Haajipir. It was dark and the light of the factory was visible from far off. In an excitement to quickly reach the factory, I strayed from the track and got stuck in the mud making my bike immobile. In that wilderness, getting scared was natural but not a practical option. Rather, I conjured all my physical strength and pulled the fully loaded 200Kg beast and out it came. Pheww! But the impact of that force left my forearms aching for more than a week. Now, the next challenge was to locate the BSF post which I found with the help from a truck driver from the factory and a little straying out. The BSF inspector Mr. Ranveer Singh, a cordial man, explained me the route but was skeptical whether I would make it. I followed the route suggested by him constantly looking back to ensure that the factory lights are in sight and feel assured of my return to safety. The history repeated as the tracks forked out. As I reluctantly rode for a few meters, the lights of the factory were out of my sight and now I was on destiny’s mercy. Completely dark night, invisible route and shivering cold were my nemesis. I continued riding for few kilometers oblivious of the right track but deep within I felt that I will find a way out. May be that belief was my stubborn ego which was bruised at Little Rann though I won’t defend if you prefer to term it as “foolish”. After an hour of fearful and uncertain ride, I saw a LIGHT! A group of villagers were warming near the fire. One of them accompanied me to some distance to help me connect to the correct route which was also muddy but atleast had a path. As per Mohammad’s instruction, a tarmac road would start after 5-6 kms. After 5 kms, every meter of absence of tarmac would make my heart skip a beat. Eventually, I was on the broken tarmac but it wasn’t the end of my sufferings. In that moment of confoundedness, sight of a fellow human being walking on the road seems like a lifesaver but I was wrong. This man was dark and had a weird appearance. As I asked him for directions, he reacted in an awkward manner having no congruence with the context. I asked if I could drop him somewhere and this time his reaction frightened me and speeding away was the best alternative I could see. Finally, it was a jaded milestone marked with “Haajipir 5 kms’ in Gujarati that brought relief to my tumultuous heart. Had a minor fall while crossing an under-construction bridge just after Haajipir, bought a bottle of petrol at Dhora for Rs.80 and rode for next 2 hours through lonely interior roads hitting the highway at Rawapar at 11.40Pm. 31st night was celebrated while having a delicious dinner at a Dhaba run by Om and then left for Matanomadh 12 kms away. After I failed to persuade the caretaker of the Dharamsala for a room, OM’s call ended my suffering.
Urgency to vacate my flat by 2nd January and an uncompromising owner warranted my early return to Pune skipping Lakhpat and Mandvi. Matanomadh is the kuldevi of Kutch. 2012 began with paying obeisance to the goddess. Had tea at Om’s dhaba, thanked him for his help in getting accommodation last night and started the return journey via Matanomadh, Rawapar, Bhuj, Bhachau, Samakhayali, Malia, Halvad, Dhrangadhra, SurendraNagar and Limbdi ending the day after 380 Kms at 9Pm. Plan was to leave Limbdi early morning by 6 to reach Pune by 7-8 in the evening after which I could finish off the re-location. But seems the final drama was yet to unfold.

Dramatic Climax: I woke-up at 5.30am but my bike couldn’t. After 45 minutes of hapless kicking, I began an impossible task of searching an elusive Enfield mechanic and growing restless with every minute’s delay but it was one of those days when nothing goes right. Left with no choice, waited till 8am for shops to open and then walked a kilometer to the town for the mechanic only to be told by the god of the moment to bring the bike to him. Came back and dragged the bike for more than a kilometer. A discharged battery was the culprit and now the wait for battery shop begins. Here in Pune, my roommate was going mad at me having left him in the lurch. Meanwhile, carrying the heavy battery for a KM further to charge it was an exhaustive effort. An hour of wait to finish charging came with even more horrible news. The battery was conked off and wouldn’t work. Optimistically, took the battery back to the garage for a ray of hope but nothing was supposed to go right that day and battery was protagonist of the scheme.
By this time, the shops were opened, I had an earful from my roommate for my inability to reach Pune by evening and the garage guy was getting sympathetic over my misery. He summoned a battery repair guy to help me and we rode to battery dealer on his bike twice eventually to understand that the said model is unavailable. When rape is inevitable, better enjoy it goes a wisdom. I applied it thinking and preparing for the worst immediately gaining freedom from anxiety and giving way to a smarter Amit. A little prod made the duo stumble upon a workaround of installing a smaller battery which would enable kick-start, horn and light except self-start. On a normal day, I would have wanted to kill them for ignoring my question at the beginning but then it is better to be quite when in deep shit. All I could say was “fantastic”. And fantastic it was. The bike roared and I sped on the highway again with Rs.400 hole in the pocket.

Victory: Exactly at 12 noon, started from Limbdi for Pune via Bhagodra, Tarapur, Borsad, Vadodara, Palej, Ankaleshwar, Surat, Valsad, Vapi and Mumbai. Skipped lunch. Had snacks(Bhatavda, a platter of vegetables smoked in an earthern pot and relished with chutney. Delectable and healthy) at Vapi and dinner at Sheel Phata in Mumbai. Ride from Vapi to Mumbai was extremely boring. As I crossed Panvel, drowsiness made riding impossible as I could not see further. Luckily, saw a guy sitting near a fireplace at a petrol pump. Warmed myself and dozed for 10 minutes. That 10 minutes nap gave me enough ammunition to ride for next 100 kms to Pune. Without that 10 minute nap, I am afraid, I would have fallen unconscious while riding. Rode through Khandala ghat at nearly 3AM and was overwhelmed by the experience of ghat riding in midnight. Unlike general perception, I realised riding in nights is very much enjoyable especially in Ghats.

Finally reached home at 5AM after riding for 750Kms on the last day comprehensively exhausted but completely rejuvenated.
The lessons learned during these 10.5 days can not be explained but can only be summed up as UNFORGETTABLE !



N.B : Pictures might not be that exciting. I am a lousy photographer.

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shashrash

CONGO dude ... that must be a fantastik ride for sure .. I cd relive those pics as we a grp of 10 riders from Pune-Mumbai did a Runn of Kutch (4 day) ride last month only... can check the travel log titled .. "Kutch callin..." ...

cheerzzz..
ride safe and wear helmets...

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Amit05

Yeah dude... It was awesome.. Read your logs... You guys seem to have had a blast