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Day 1: April 2 (Pune – Kolhapur – Kharepatan – Talere – Vijaydurg – Malvan - Tarkali Beach):500 km


4:30 am : I was ready with my bike ready to hit the roads. Soon I was cruising in NH4.The tarmac was freshly laid in many sections.The reflectors were so fresh and powerful that It was adding to my visibility quiet a lot.




Khambatki ghat was packed with vehicles this early in the morning.I thought there might have been due to some accident.Did close to 1 km of off-roading as every inch of road was filled with vehicles.Then saw two tankers struck-up on a turn.



After that the ride till Kolhapur was very swift at speeds of 80-90 in a very cold winds.
Intrestingly,I saw as many as 4 bikers all geared up with saddle bags and all most probably moving towards b’lore.Thats quiet a good number in 200 kms streach.But they were too fast to be stopped by me.Anyone from xbhp who was riding that morning???


8:30 am I reached Kolhapur. I took some snacks .It took me 40 mins to locate the road towards Bavda.Two gentlemen with totally different idea about the route guided me in different directions and the apathy was that none of them were correct.
Once I got the correct road next hurdle was to traverse this single lane road with many ST buses and too many motorcyclists. Luckily after 15-20 km I was welcomed with empty roads with lots of Sunflower farms around.I took a lot of breaks and steadily reached Kharepatan on NH17.








I updated my status to Biru.Then the meeting point was finalized as Vijaydurg fort.By 1:00-1:10 I was there. Biru reached shortly.



Vijaydurg Fort

It’s a nice 800 yrs old sea fort. We took a local guide. Dumped our luggage under his custody and then started the series of story by Sanjay our guide. We roamed around and spent 1.5 hrs there. The day was very hot but the cool breeze from sea was the savior.


















Roots deep under the well.




Destination next was Tarkarli Beach.
The ride to Tarkarli through inner roads was smooth except at one point where road ended and for next 2-3 kms it was all dust gravels and stones.

Some scenic view on way to Tarkarli.




We reached Tarkarli by 5:30 pm booked a room for 500 bucks.
And the in evening we went to the beach.

Tarkarli Beach

I rate it as one of the best beach on konkan between Mumbai and Goa. Calm and Clean.It was beautiful.
Later Biru took a dip in water.I asked Biru to take our bike to the beach,initially he resisted but then his heart was also beating for it.Soon the bikes were on beach.We rode across the beach.That was cool.
Post sunset we returned back to our room. Biru was tired we ordered beer and went to take a nap.
Meanwhile I sat outside the room talking to the owner of that house.He is basically a firsherman who rents his 2-3 room for extra income.It was quite homely atmosphere.












The bikes parked just outside the window of our room.

Conversation with a young Fisherman

Later in evening I got a chance to talk to Prashant,firsherman’s son.He was in his teenage with lots of stories to share.He told me about how he can swim even 5-10 km inside sea and can return back.About his problems of going with small ship which are bullied by big fishing ships(trailers).He told about his miraculous escape when he gave up the hope of survival but somehow god saved him.many more such stories.So many stories at this little age,thats something to worry about.

Later in the night the owner served us home cooked food.It was just ok type but their hospitality forced us to praise it.we were asleep by 11.

The hospitality at Tarkali is amazing, whther it be cottage owner, boatmen, or anyone. They really love taking feedback from us. Nice photos & write up.
Have you not done snorkeling at Tarkali.

I have always been a fan of your passion Kashif....!

And I am thrilled when I see you guys doing kneedown.Amazing stuff.

Didn't got time for that.

Wow..Amazing write up Kashif bhai..I will add my piece of info very soon.

Awesome log and pics Kashif..! Would love to see more..

thanks guys...I have the logs ready...I'll upload them tomorrow night.

Day 1 - Mumbai to Vijaydurg and Night Stay at Tarkarli.Vijaydurg Fort

I reached VIjaydurg at 1 PM,Kashif had already reached couple of mins ago. We greeted each other and sat for a while and had couple of glasses of tasty Kokam sharbat.
Right shop at the right place





Fishing Boats just outside the Fort



We booked one guy for 100 INR to take us and guide around the place. Yes he was a guide :P



Vijaydurg is one of very prominent sea forts which were built in the Maratha period. Victory Fort is one of the great forts of the Konkan. Vijaydurg Fort was strengthened around the 17th century by Shivaji, to whom it owes its finest features - the triple line of walls, the numerous towers and the massive interior buildings.
Some info from the web..
The earlier name of this fort was Girye or Gheriya because it is surrounded by sea from three sides. The fort has an area of six hectares; there are twenty-seven Buruj inside the fort. Some of them have three floors. "Kothi Pirachi Sadar", "Kitta Sadar", Jails, 'Jakhinis' Canon, huge stones used for construction purpose, the platform built in the deep sea for guarding, etc all these things must be seen and are still puzzling to a viewer.
The underwater explorations on the western side of the fort, about 100m seaward revealed a stone structure at a water depth of 8 to 10m. It measures 122m in length, 7m in width and 3m in height. Besides it a tidal dockyard was also located around 3-km from Vijaydurg fort on the left bank of Vaghotan River.
The dockyard is 110m long and width is 75m. It was hollowed out of a rock. The southern and eastern side is cut out of a natural rock and rest is dry masonry. In addition to this a number of grapnel and triangular stone anchors were noticed in the adjoining area of dockyard.
History of the fort
It existed as a dilapidated fortification of the Shilahar period before it was taken over by the Bijapur kings, and then by Shivaji who made it a major naval base. When Shivaji failed to capture Murud-Janjira, he decided to create a similar stronghold and built Vijaydurg Fort, on a rocky projection south of Ratnagiri.
He had a triple line of walls built, as well as numerous towers. In 1698 AD, the Maratha naval commander Angre, who was the terror of all traders, made it his capital. This fort has a hollowed-out entrance to take vessels of 500 tons.

Now let the pics do the talking.

Canon Balls



Gates which survived the mighty battles.



Weapon storage



A view from the top



Brilliant thinking - Entry gates are not visible from a distance.



Main Sabha hall - Meeting hall



One of the tunnel which takes you to a attack post



Another tunnel -Its an underwater which takes you to a nearby village,
mainly used to flee from a attack. But its been blocked now.



Food storage compartment and a big artificial water reservoir at the other end of the fort complex.





A well full of roots instead of water - This well has one interesting story, as told by the guide.



You read it right - Helium was discovered here



We roamed at fort for 1.5 hrs.It was time for much needed lunch. Though there are not many options around the place. There was restaurant bang opposite to the entrance of the fort. Had plenty of food, it was 3:00 Pm.Time to move ahead.Tarkarli was another 80-85 Kms from there. And for going to Tarkarli we have to go back to Malwan again and take the Tarkarli route.

CHEERS
BIRU

cool pics Biru.Kab le li itni saari pics.
I'll update day2/3 tonight.

Day 2 : Talkarli Beach – Vengurla – Goa – Karwar – Gokarna – OM Beach – Murudeshwar – (after this Biru moved to Udupi while I stayed back) : 370 Km

We woke up early and left the place by 5:30 am. I tanked up in Malvan. Initial destination was Vengurla on NH17. The roads were smooth and route was scenic.We came across this bridge with soothing view around.It was just amazing. We spent some time there and then moved further.We stopped in Goa for morning tea.







Into the Evil’s Den

Around 7 months back I took this same route and at petrol pump between South Goa and Karwar ,my then partner Sam’s bike stopped working.It took us 3 hours to fix it.

This fine morning as I was approaching this pump I was having those thoughts in mind.Just a km before pump my bike started wobbling a little.I thought the front tyre is gone.Pulled over immediately and found that it is fine. Smiled back and thought it must be my hallucination.

But moments later Biru pointed out that the rear tyre is flat. My reaction was…..man its just a km from that bloody pump. We moved to that same pump but this time things got back in place within 45 mins.

Waiting to be rescued


Biru relaxing in the shade while puncture is being fixed




Garfield : pic by Biru


We by-passed Karwar and directly moved towards OM Beach. We stopped at a few places for photos and drinks.

Beautiful Karwar Beach


OM Beach[/B]Murdeshvar

I quickly cheked-in a hotel.took a shower and the n came back to the beach.

Murdeshwar has a temple and huge statue of lord Shiva on a cliff beside temple and unending sea in the background. This combination religious place,beach,watersports makes it a perfect family destination.

But what shall I do then…ok not a problem I just leisurely roamed around in and out the temple and the places nearby.



The beach




Night view


Sea facing resort


Culture transfusion




Golden Chariot


GODS


Gajraj


Night view


Dinner


The Divine Rays

This is the best experience of whole trip. I was roaming around the huge statue then I saw some huge rays coming from the sea and going towards the sky. It was magical. A portion of sea was deep black and rest was moonlit.Soon I realiazed the cause of it. But no matter what I kept watching it for more than 20 mins.It was amazing. It was like rays of hope in the darkness.It looked supernatural.

Actually the cliff and the statue was creating a huge shadow in the sea and the high intensity beams that are lit in front of the statue in front side of cliff was producing those rays in background.I wish I could capture it in my camera.

Later I came back to the local market area tried some local cusine some local sea fish,forgot the name.It was really tasty and preparation was a little sour but good.Slept early as the coming up day was long day.

Kashif & Beru,

Good Pics & write ups. Its really amazing route to travel. Waiting for the remaining log & pics.

Day3 : Murdeshvar – Karvar – Anshi national Park – Dandeli National Park – Dharwad- Belgam – Kolhapur – Pune : 750 km

I started my day at 6 am, reached Karvar soon.

Easily found the road to Anshi National Park. The roads were excellent.

I stopped for breakfast at around 9 am in a village. they served nice home made poha like thing but not exactly poha as we have in maharastra.Soon I reached Anshi NP.

Honavur


Hazards of industrialization clearly visible on the beach


Forest





Sherkhan checkpost,no I didn't entered that road.that was just a few kms of the main highway.


Anshi National Park

Once inside the park the views changed drastically.there were tall trees all over.the forest was dense.and the temperature came down by 7-8 degree. It was pleasing but at the same time a little haunting as I was alone in the wild. I could clearly hear sounds of birds and a couple of time some strange animal sound too. I could not muster courage to stop after first few stops.

After around 20-30 km this dense forest was left behind and the roads became pathetic.




3-4 kms of offroad from main highway


Encounter with the deadliest creature

At one such point after crossing a small village I was relaxing and then I heard something coming out of the bushes very rapidly as if it was to attack me. My balls were in my mouth I almost started running then turned back to see that a man came out of it. I was like awwwwwwkkkkkkkkkkk.

What an embarrassing moment that was. We both shared a smile and then he departed.

But still now I don’t understand what the hell was he doing there.

Later, on the way I came across two bisons. But after that scary shit I didn’t even bother to stop.



The villager

I stopped at village between Anshi and Dandeli.I had some interesting conversation with the locals.

Mr. Praveen has been living in this village since ages,he serves tea and pakodas to the tourists.

I asked him :” yahan gaon me sher nahi aata hai”

Cool Praveen : “week me 1 baar to aata hi hai aur kabhi kabhi to lagatar bhi aata hai”
Me : “App log ko darr nahi lagta???”
Cool Praveen : “nahi lekin cattle(in hindi) ka bahoot nuksaan hota hai”
Me :”aap log bahar kyun nahi chale jaate”
CoolPraveen :” Ab apne padosi ko chor ke kahan jayeinge”
“Agar unko tang nahi karo to voh koi prob nahi dete hai”

I realized all of a sudden he started taking side of the wild that are threat to their life and children.
That’s a strange relation they share with the wildlife.

We just join a community on facebook saying Only X number of tigers left but they are the one who are actually conserving the wild life even after facing those hardship.





I by-passed the Dandeli forests and Kili river as it was getting hotter and the forest getting thinner.

I reached Dharwad at 1:30 pm.

From here it was butter smooth golden quadrilateral.

The next major stopover was Kolhapur

Took a local advice to take a shortkut to climb up the NH4 near Dharwad.
And this is what happened.10-15 inches of red dust.


River Kali



Meeting with Mr. Racer

I was riding steadily at 90-95 kmph.A Bajaj Discover overtook me from a very close distance and then slowed down.this guy was wearing chappal,shirt with 3 button open and a golden chain in neck,helmet less eating pan and smiling.

I ignored him and kept moving at constant speed but then again he did the same,overtook me closely and slowed down.this cycle kept on going for next 20 kms. I stopped at a petrol bunk to let him go.I spent some 10 mins there but to my astonishment that idiot is still waiting to race with me.

And again the same story continues…it was so irritating.

At a toll gate some kms before Kolhapur this gentle man gave me signal as if saying boss you can go now.I found this place appropriate and stopped my bike just ahead of him on the toll gate.

The man still smiling…ufff…


Me : Bhai prob kya hai???
Mr. Racer : Boss aapto bura maan gae.
Me : karna kya chahte ho?
Mr. Racer : Are mai aap se nahi race laga raha tha…aap to racing wale ho I was just checking if my Discover can keep up with Pulsar.
Me : Bhai helmet pahna karo dekha nahi pecha wala car accident.
Mr. Racer : Haan aage se zaroor lagaoonga.Garmi lagta hai.Aap kahan se aa rahe hai?
Me : Bangalore
Mr. Racer : baaapre…sorry Sorry maine aapko pareshan kiya agar.

Then we shook hands and parted our ways as he took turn for his village.

NH4


Sunset at Satara


Later I took a long break at Kolhapur Mcd and then moved towards Pune through the thick Sunday traffic.

Reached Pune at 8:30 pm completing yet another memorable trip safely.

For more pics log on to www.nomadicbiking.weebly.com

.. Jab guide ke saath maskhari kar rahe the tabhi


Day3 log looks quite interesting,Did you see any tigers ?? :P

Cheers