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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Trivandrum
Posts: 236
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Hi guys, I have a puncture in my rear tyre. Funny part: It happened when i rode to a bike mechanics'. Even funnier: I didn't notice it till 3 hours after coming back while lubing my chain.
It's the stock tyre and tube. (P180 UG3) It was punctured by a hinge spring.Now please help me find a way to fix it. I obviously can't ride it to the mech. The mech is a good 30 minute walk from my house. I'm not a well built person, so i don't think ill be able to handle pushing the bike there either. Im thinking of removing the wheel and taking it to an A.S.S. by auto or car. 1> Is that the best idea? And please tell me the precautions and things i should look out for. Like, 2> how the wheel is removed, 3> whether i have to patch the tyre and tube, 4> what type of patch, 5> liner, 6> alignment, 7> balancing etc... |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Query Approved.
If it's a tubeless tyre, then it's no big issue really to fix it up really. It is hardly a 10-minute job. Get a puncture repair kit and you are all set to go!
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...in search of that perfect world - My Travel Blog :) |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Trivandrum
Posts: 236
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It's an MRF Nylogrip Zapper-C. I thought it had a tube. But after you asked, i searched online, and there seems to be a tubeless Zapper C.
How do i find out? I can tell you that its stock. 100/90 17 55 P
Last edited by Ayson; 02-26-2010 at 11:05 PM. Reason: Spec.s |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: chennai
Posts: 109
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if its a tubeless tyre u may be able to drive the bike filling the air near by petrol bunk..and therfore no need to remove the spring wich made the tyre to puncture the repair shop will change it ....
pulsar 180ug4 is a tubeless one dont know about UG3 any way check it out in some website ir in manual..
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Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.....[:)] Waiting for a job to own a kawasaki ninja......! |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Gurgaon/Faridabad
Posts: 3,390
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im guessing it should be tubeless since your tyre lasted so long without being deflated completely.
Simple way to find out. Get a foot pump from someone, fill air.. if you feel that the tyre is stiffening up, then you can fill adequate amount of air to ride the bike till the puncture shop, else if you feel the tyre is not stiffening at all, and air is simply leaking, then you gotta remove the wheel and take it using some other means. Remove locking pin on rear axle using pliers, loosen the axle bolt. Tap the axle slightly using something soft that doesnt damage the axle end, keep wriggling your tyre so the axle slides out easily. Remove the axle spacer ( inbetween the drum plate and the swingarm ) Remove drum brake assy Slide tyre towards the open side, unmounting it off the rubber coupling and sprocket drive. You have your wheel to go. You can bring a mech back with you to fit the tyre properly if you are not too confident of your job. Or go and get one who can come and remove it as well.
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My offerings to the gods of speed - - KTM Duke 200 - Yamaha RXZ 5 speed |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Raipur (C.G.)
Posts: 591
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I have something else to tell maybe most of us dont know that.
It is extremely convinient to get the punctured tubeless tyre repaired by self or even at a puncture repair shop. In case the puncture is a minor one please dont use the puncture kit unless it is necessary, for repairing a tubeless tyre puncture what we do is put the tool inside the hole due to which the size of the hole increases and we simply put glued rubber piece in it. It damages the tyre by deforming its original shape decreasing its life. Better go to a tyre repair shop ask them to remove the tyre and repair it from the inside as it is done for tubes. This will surely improve the tyre life. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Gurgaon/Faridabad
Posts: 3,390
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^^ agreed, but on a alloy rim, unless they have a proper tyre removal machine, it can cause scratches and damage to the rim of the alloy wheel. So its not always feasible to do that, though your idea is right.
__________________
My offerings to the gods of speed - - KTM Duke 200 - Yamaha RXZ 5 speed |
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#9 (permalink) | |||
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Trivandrum
Posts: 236
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Quote:
Quote:
Pic1 ![]() Pic2 ![]() Coincidently i had just aligned my wheel and tightened the chain slack in the morning following the service manual instructions. I have edited that to fit the current need. Please read through and correct me. Quote:
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 129
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Quote:
2. Just tap the axle from the side that you unscrewed so that you can remove it from the other end (Pic2 A is the axle). Use a thick cloth to avoid damage to the axle end. 3. Do not loosen Pic2 B nut. Now, you can remove the spacer provided between the brake drum and the swing arm. 4. Remove brake drum assembly. 5. Gently move the tyre from side to side until it comes off the sprocket. It would help if someone could tilt the bike to one side so that you can remove the wheel easily. |
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| p180, puncture, tube |
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