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Old 02-26-2010, 08:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation Puncture repair

Hi guys, I have a puncture in my rear tyre. Funny part: It happened when i rode to a bike mechanics'. Even funnier: I didn't notice it till 3 hours after coming back while lubing my chain. It's the stock tyre and tube. (P180 UG3) It was punctured by a hinge spring.

Now please help me find a way to fix it. I obviously can't ride it to the mech. The mech is a good 30 minute walk from my house. I'm not a well built person, so i don't think ill be able to handle pushing the bike there either. Im thinking of removing the wheel and taking it to an A.S.S. by auto or car.

1> Is that the best idea? And please tell me the precautions and things i should look out for. Like, 2> how the wheel is removed, 3> whether i have to patch the tyre and tube, 4> what type of patch, 5> liner, 6> alignment, 7> balancing etc...
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Old 02-26-2010, 09:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Query Approved.

If it's a tubeless tyre, then it's no big issue really to fix it up really. It is hardly a 10-minute job. Get a puncture repair kit and you are all set to go!
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Aryan View Post
If it's a tubeless tyre
It's an MRF Nylogrip Zapper-C. I thought it had a tube. But after you asked, i searched online, and there seems to be a tubeless Zapper C. How do i find out? I can tell you that its stock. 100/90 17 55 P

Last edited by Ayson; 02-26-2010 at 11:05 PM. Reason: Spec.s
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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if its a tubeless tyre u may be able to drive the bike filling the air near by petrol bunk..and therfore no need to remove the spring wich made the tyre to puncture the repair shop will change it ....
pulsar 180ug4 is a tubeless one dont know about UG3 any way check it out in some website ir in manual..
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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im guessing it should be tubeless since your tyre lasted so long without being deflated completely.

Simple way to find out. Get a foot pump from someone, fill air.. if you feel that the tyre is stiffening up, then you can fill adequate amount of air to ride the bike till the puncture shop, else if you feel the tyre is not stiffening at all, and air is simply leaking, then you gotta remove the wheel and take it using some other means.

Remove locking pin on rear axle using pliers, loosen the axle bolt.

Tap the axle slightly using something soft that doesnt damage the axle end, keep wriggling your tyre so the axle slides out easily.

Remove the axle spacer ( inbetween the drum plate and the swingarm )

Remove drum brake assy

Slide tyre towards the open side, unmounting it off the rubber coupling and sprocket drive.

You have your wheel to go.

You can bring a mech back with you to fit the tyre properly if you are not too confident of your job. Or go and get one who can come and remove it as well.
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ayson View Post
It's an MRF Nylogrip Zapper-C. I thought it had a tube. But after you asked, i searched online, and there seems to be a tubeless Zapper C. How do i find out? I can tell you that its stock. 100/90 17 55 P
U can check markings on tyre sidewall. TUBELESS will be written on TL tyre.
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Tubeless Tyre Puncture

I have something else to tell maybe most of us dont know that.
It is extremely convinient to get the punctured tubeless tyre repaired by self or even at a puncture repair shop.

In case the puncture is a minor one please dont use the puncture kit unless it is necessary, for repairing a tubeless tyre puncture what we do is put the tool inside the hole due to which the size of the hole increases and we simply put glued rubber piece in it. It damages the tyre by deforming its original shape decreasing its life.
Better go to a tyre repair shop ask them to remove the tyre and repair it from the inside as it is done for tubes. This will surely improve the tyre life.
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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^^ agreed, but on a alloy rim, unless they have a proper tyre removal machine, it can cause scratches and damage to the rim of the alloy wheel. So its not always feasible to do that, though your idea is right.
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Old 02-27-2010, 02:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jd666 View Post
im guessing it should be tubeless since your tyre lasted so long without being deflated completely.
It was deflated when i found it. I removed the spring too. "Tubeless" or "TL" is not written anywhere on the tyre.

Quote:
Remove locking pin on . . . ... . . .drive. You have your wheel to go.
Are these generic instructions? Can you help me more specifically. I have these two pics for assistance.

Pic1


Pic2


Coincidently i had just aligned my wheel and tightened the chain slack in the morning following the service manual instructions. I have edited that to fit the current need. Please read through and correct me.

Quote:
Remove:
1 the rear torque link clip & nut (1)
2 the rear brake adjusting nut (2)
3 the axle nut (3)

4 "Tap the axle slightly using something soft that doesnt damage the axle end, keep wriggling your tyre so the axle slides out easily." Part labelled 'A' is the axle right?

5 Remove the axle spacer ( inbetween the drum plate and the swingarm ). This is the part holding the wheel from the swing arm on both sides?

6 Remove drum brake assy. This will come out of wheel hub without any other dimantling or force?

7 Slide tyre towards the open side, unmounting it off the rubber coupling and sprocket drive. I hope no bearings or other delicate parts will fall off during this. During this step will the sprocket be separated from the hub or will the sprocket be removed along with the wheel? Do i have to remove the sprocket by removing its nuts?
Sorry for such a long post, just preparing to get everything right. Thanx in advance.
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Old 02-27-2010, 02:50 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ayson View Post

...
Pic1


Pic2

Coincidently i had just aligned my wheel and tightened the chain slack in the morning following the service manual instructions. I have edited that to fit the current need. Please read through and correct me.

Sorry for such a long post, just preparing to get everything right. Thanx in advance.
1. Unscrew Pic1 3 nut.
2. Just tap the axle from the side that you unscrewed so that you can remove it from the other end (Pic2 A is the axle). Use a thick cloth to avoid damage to the axle end.
3. Do not loosen Pic2 B nut. Now, you can remove the spacer provided between the brake drum and the swing arm.
4. Remove brake drum assembly.
5. Gently move the tyre from side to side until it comes off the sprocket. It would help if someone could tilt the bike to one side so that you can remove the wheel easily.
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