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**Aryan** · 02-26-2010, 10:56 PM

Query Approved.

If it's a tubeless tyre, then it's no big issue really to fix it up really. It is hardly a 10-minute job. Get a puncture repair kit and you are all set to go!

**Ayson** · 02-26-2010, 11:39 PM

Originally posted by Aryan View Post

If it's a tubeless tyre

It's an MRF Nylogrip Zapper-C. I thought it had a tube. But after you asked, i searched online, and there seems to be a tubeless Zapper C.

How do i find out? I can tell you that its stock. 100/90 17 55 P

**abhibhaskar** · 02-26-2010, 11:44 PM

if its a tubeless tyre u may be able to drive the bike filling the air near by petrol bunk..and therfore no need to remove the spring wich made the tyre to puncture the repair shop will change it ....
pulsar 180ug4 is a tubeless one dont know about UG3 any way check it out in some website ir in manual..

**jd666** · 02-27-2010, 12:13 AM

im guessing it should be tubeless since your tyre lasted so long without being deflated completely.

Simple way to find out. Get a foot pump from someone, fill air.. if you feel that the tyre is stiffening up, then you can fill adequate amount of air to ride the bike till the puncture shop, else if you feel the tyre is not stiffening at all, and air is simply leaking, then you gotta remove the wheel and take it using some other means.

Remove locking pin on rear axle using pliers, loosen the axle bolt.

Tap the axle slightly using something soft that doesnt damage the axle end, keep wriggling your tyre so the axle slides out easily.

Remove the axle spacer ( inbetween the drum plate and the swingarm )

Remove drum brake assy

Slide tyre towards the open side, unmounting it off the rubber coupling and sprocket drive.

You have your wheel to go.

You can bring a mech back with you to fit the tyre properly if you are not too confident of your job. Or go and get one who can come and remove it as well.

**tyreman** · 02-27-2010, 12:14 AM

Originally posted by Ayson View Post

It's an MRF Nylogrip Zapper-C. I thought it had a tube. But after you asked, i searched online, and there seems to be a tubeless Zapper C.

How do i find out? I can tell you that its stock. 100/90 17 55 P

U can check markings on tyre sidewall. TUBELESS will be written on TL tyre.

**jasmeetsinghchawla** · 02-27-2010, 12:25 AM

Tubeless Tyre Puncture

I have something else to tell maybe most of us dont know that.
It is extremely convinient to get the punctured tubeless tyre repaired by self or even at a puncture repair shop.

In case the puncture is a minor one please dont use the puncture kit unless it is necessary, for repairing a tubeless tyre puncture what we do is put the tool inside the hole due to which the size of the hole increases and we simply put glued rubber piece in it. It damages the tyre by deforming its original shape decreasing its life.
Better go to a tyre repair shop ask them to remove the tyre and repair it from the inside as it is done for tubes. This will surely improve the tyre life.

**jd666** · 02-27-2010, 12:35 AM

^^ agreed, but on a alloy rim, unless they have a proper tyre removal machine, it can cause scratches and damage to the rim of the alloy wheel. So its not always feasible to do that, though your idea is right.

**Ayson** · 02-27-2010, 03:02 AM

Originally posted by jd666 View Post

im guessing it should be tubeless since your tyre lasted so long without being deflated completely.

It was deflated when i found it. I removed the spring too. "Tubeless" or "TL" is not written anywhere on the tyre.

Remove locking pin on . . . ... . . .drive. You have your wheel to go.

Are these generic instructions? Can you help me more specifically. I have these two pics for assistance.

Pic1

Pic2

Coincidently i had just aligned my wheel and tightened the chain slack in the morning following the service manual instructions. I have edited that to fit the current need. Please read through and correct me.

Remove:
1 the rear torque link clip & nut (1)
2 the rear brake adjusting nut (2)
3 the axle nut (3)

4 "Tap the axle slightly using something soft that doesnt damage the axle end, keep wriggling your tyre so the axle slides out easily." Part labelled 'A' is the axle right?

5 Remove the axle spacer ( inbetween the drum plate and the swingarm ). This is the part holding the wheel from the swing arm on both sides?

6 Remove drum brake assy. This will come out of wheel hub without any other dimantling or force?

7 Slide tyre towards the open side, unmounting it off the rubber coupling and sprocket drive. I hope no bearings or other delicate parts will fall off during this. During this step will the sprocket be separated from the hub or will the sprocket be removed along with the wheel? Do i have to remove the sprocket by removing its nuts?

Sorry for such a long post, just preparing to get everything right. Thanx in advance.

**hyper** · 02-27-2010, 03:50 AM

Originally posted by Ayson View Post

...
Pic1

Pic2

Coincidently i had just aligned my wheel and tightened the chain slack in the morning following the service manual instructions. I have edited that to fit the current need. Please read through and correct me.

Sorry for such a long post, just preparing to get everything right. Thanx in advance.

1. Unscrew Pic1 3 nut.
2. Just tap the axle from the side that you unscrewed so that you can remove it from the other end (Pic2 A is the axle). Use a thick cloth to avoid damage to the axle end.
3. Do not loosen Pic2 B nut. Now, you can remove the spacer provided between the brake drum and the swing arm.
4. Remove brake drum assembly.
5. Gently move the tyre from side to side until it comes off the sprocket. It would help if someone could tilt the bike to one side so that you can remove the wheel easily.

**jd666** · 02-27-2010, 04:46 AM

^^ already explained.. thanks hyper

**Ayson** · 02-28-2010, 04:08 AM

Thank you all very much. It was very well explained. It was easier than expected to do.

Removed the wheel and took it to MRF T n S. They turned me down saying they fix only tubeless!!!

So i took it to a probiking A.S.S. They said they work only on the whole bike.

I was going to ask "Should i fit this back on the bike and bring it. Then you'll fix my puncture?", but i didn't. I took it to these places because i didn't want my black rim to get scratched. I would be really noticable. Finaly i took it to a local puncture shop.

1> He used a round patch that comes in a packet like band-aid.
2> There was no liner between the tube and wheel.

Are these things ok?

He put powder and i also got a few paint loss spots on the rim.

Thanks a lot again for your help, all of you.

**Ayson** · 03-03-2010, 01:19 PM

I had put a comment on the MRF website about the happenings at the T & S on 01/03/2010. Today morning i received a call from their Regional Manager at Bangalore asking for details. Then about an hour later, i got a call from the Technical (Manager?) in Trivandrum. I gave him all the details too. Then he asked me whether he could meet me and see the tyre. I told him, no need to see the tyre or meet, but i am very upset that your big T & S cannot even mend a puncture! He said he will "Take up my issue". I hope something positive results from this.

**hyper** · 03-07-2010, 11:12 PM

You can't expect bajaj service station to fix a puncture.

There are a few good road side puncture repair walas who use a piece of rubber while removing the tyre so that the alloy wheel does not get damaged. Find someone who shows this much care.

**BikerKing** · 08-21-2013, 11:31 AM

Re: Puncture repair

Just buy Anti Puncture liquid man! It is hardly 1000 rs and you will never have a puncture again!!
I have had worst time with flat tyres !

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