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Hi guys! My Pulsar 150 now runs on all DC. In stock condition, the headlight, tail lamp and pilot lamp (parking), console lamps runs on AC. Rest of the stuffs - horn, indicators, tachometer, brake lamp, tell tale lamps, fuel meter and the starter motor runs on DC through the battery. I converted all the AC stuffs to run on DC.
Advantages -
1. Nil Flickering at idle - constant brightness of headlight.
2. HID ready - can directly install HID in place of my 60/55W light. No battery draining issues.
The procedure is described below. Can be potentially adapted to any bikes.
Step 1
Prepare the AC to DC rectifier circuit. The circuit diagram is given below.
The above circuit is a standard bridge rectifier circuit. Use only parts mentioned above. Check for correct polarity of the diodes and the capacitors.
Thanks to rahuldevnath for helping me confirm the basic idea and provide the design of the circuit including choosing the exact components needed to build the circuit. He has this rectifier on this UGIII Pulsar 180.
My completed circuit -
Look at the circuit - the extra soldering is done so that it may dissipate some heat from the diodes. I recommend a 5K resistor between the capacitor pins to ensure safe discharge of the capacitor charge when not in use. I will be connecting the resistor shortly.
Make 2 DC wires.
Step 2
Now connect the wires as shown below.
You need to modify the wiring at two places -
At the first place separate the yellow wire from the connector of the RR unit. Now connect the wires from the custom built rectifier as shown below.
Step 3
Connect GND to the RR unit mounting bolt.
Step 4
At the second place, connect the another DC wire to the brown wire shown in the picture below. I used the brown wire at the relay. You can use the brown wire at any available point in the wiring. This brown wire is connected to the battery when the ignition is switched ON.
Step 5
Mount the rectifier as shown.
That's it. Look at my console! The engine is OFF.
Any questions - feel free to ask!
Advantages -
1. Nil Flickering at idle - constant brightness of headlight.
2. HID ready - can directly install HID in place of my 60/55W light. No battery draining issues.
The procedure is described below. Can be potentially adapted to any bikes.
Step 1
Prepare the AC to DC rectifier circuit. The circuit diagram is given below.
The above circuit is a standard bridge rectifier circuit. Use only parts mentioned above. Check for correct polarity of the diodes and the capacitors.
Thanks to rahuldevnath for helping me confirm the basic idea and provide the design of the circuit including choosing the exact components needed to build the circuit. He has this rectifier on this UGIII Pulsar 180.
My completed circuit -
Look at the circuit - the extra soldering is done so that it may dissipate some heat from the diodes. I recommend a 5K resistor between the capacitor pins to ensure safe discharge of the capacitor charge when not in use. I will be connecting the resistor shortly.
Make 2 DC wires.
Step 2
Now connect the wires as shown below.
You need to modify the wiring at two places -
At the first place separate the yellow wire from the connector of the RR unit. Now connect the wires from the custom built rectifier as shown below.
Step 3
Connect GND to the RR unit mounting bolt.
Step 4
At the second place, connect the another DC wire to the brown wire shown in the picture below. I used the brown wire at the relay. You can use the brown wire at any available point in the wiring. This brown wire is connected to the battery when the ignition is switched ON.
Step 5
Mount the rectifier as shown.
That's it. Look at my console! The engine is OFF.
Any questions - feel free to ask!
This is what happens in smaller towns! 
I thought it was priced high, but all shops here quoted similar price. Also brought 4m wire at 20 per meter and clips for connecting.
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