archistar

Leh, capital of Ladakh region always stands in the top of a Biker’s to-do list. So how can we be the exceptions!!! It was a dream when we (me & Om) shifted to Delhi with the Uni in Feb ’08 just after completion of our B. Arch.

We wanted time to get ready for the trip in all senses. With proper riding skills in the hills (which started only after 7 days with a ride to Nainital), proper bike (a ZMA was in the pipeline along with the Uni), proper riding gears etc, we were suppose to hit the road for Leh. We were not in a hurry, so just decided to do Leh during Aug ’09.

Along with many rides to the hills, the research for Leh/Ladakh was in it’s own pace. SPITI peeped in-between and we headed towards it during Aug ’08. It was the real base for a big ride. We were 4 people on 2 bikes (Uni & CBZ) and it taught us many things. And it is the most adventurous ride for me till date. It showed us how the nature/weather can be and how you can expect the unexpected. You can find it here. Though Spiti was untouched because of bad weather and landslides but we managed to reach Chhitkul (Sangla).

Some more research on Leh and at the end of the tunnel I reached NUBRA, a beautiful valley on the ancient silk route.

Things were absolutely fine until my crash on 12th December. This incident turned everything upside down and it’s still a nightmare for me. Ladakh dream was just disappeared as Om gained some weight with the 6 inch long plate and 7 screws in his right ankle. It was because one bloody drunken auto driver hit from behind outside an ATM and we were leaving for Manali then. His first operation was on 13th Dec. On 27th March he was operated again only to remove 1 screw so that he can able to walk without any support. On the very same day we drove to Gulaba to break the jinx over Manali along with our sister and a close friend. And after this we drove to the hills a couple of times and then ‘Ladakh’ came to mind. ‘Scorpio’ was the option to make the ‘Leh’ trip. But nothing was certain. But somebody truly said, ‘once a biker always a biker’.

Till 10th July ’09, we had absolutely no idea, whether we are going / when we are going / how we are going. Strange!!! But it was very true.
There was no permission from home, no confidence on myself to do the ride; I was working in office though I served my notice period after my resignation. But it was sure we are going to Leh for minimum 15 days and we‘ve to return Delhi by the end of July. And initially I had a 20+ days plan doing the Spiti, Ladakh, Nubra, Srinagar and Amritsar but it was to be changed in anyway.

On 11th night we sat together and discussed about the trip. After 2-3 hours discussion we decided to hit the road on ‘Uni’ from 13th. And the route was via traditional Manali-Leh highway. A quick gold service of Uni, some missing spares for the emergency kit from Karolbagh and onetime usable Saddlebag were to be bought in 2 days and I was really excited.

But later we decided to ride via Srinagar because the route is more scenic than the Manali-Leh route and we wanted to enjoy the route to its most. But the whole thing was concentrated with the condition of Om’s ankle, how will it react with long sitting hours on bike!!! As per our Doctor’s suggestions, it is fine to sit for 5-6 hours means 150-200 kms maximum in a day; still it was a great relief. It was fine for us, as in hills this distance is good enough. But what about the initial day, we have to ride long!!!

Till 11th I was working late in the office and there was only one day for every preparation. So with a sudden idea from Om, we searched for Tatkal tickets till Jammu. It was really a fantastic idea. We were lucky enough to get the tickets. So one major problem was solved by this and we got decent time to take rest and as well as avoided the boring stretch in plains till Jammu. The idea proved to be fantastic and saved lots of time and energy. The train was scheduled for departure at 4.00 PM on 13th from Purani Delhi and to reach early morning at Jammu next day.

And it was the most unexpected way we started for the most expected ride.

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Aryan

Best Travel Blogger Contest Thread Approved.

Wonderful start to an amazing thread, I am sure, Archi. Please continue with the log and the pictures.

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...in search of that perfect world - My Travel Blog :)

archistar

Thanks Aryan... glad you liked it...

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archistar

Day-I (14th July ‘09)

It was really a hectic day. Our train was scheduled to departure at 4 in the evening and not a single thing was done. There were mainly three works pending, Karolbagh shopping (it included some spares for Uni, saddle bags, polythenes etc), Uni’s engine oil to be changes and the whole packing.

Managed to reach Karolbagh at around 9.15 AM, but I was unaware of the thing that it wakes up at around 11 AM. So I’d to roam randomly for about 2 hours and after it(that) I managed to get the local made saddle bags from Chopra’s for 1K and some other small things like chain link etc. which were missing from my repairing kit.

Again managed to reach home at around 12.45 PM and we had only 45 minutes for the packing and all as we’d to reach Purani Delhi railway station before 2.00 PM. The thing is that if you have a confirmed railway ticket then you can carry your bike in the same train but you have to book it minimum 2 hour before the scheduled departure. Just make sure that the fuel tank is completely empty.

Things were done in ease and we left Delhi at sharp 4.10 PM.

Route – Home (Kousambhi)-Old Delhi railway station
Total distance covered – 20 Kilometers



Day-II (15th July ‘09)

A beautiful weather welcomed us at Jammu. I was happy just because there was no sign of rain. I was really scared of rain, just wanted it to be delayed for 15 days.
Got the bike unloaded and within 15 minutes we were out from Jammu-Tawi railway station. Enquired for the fueling station and Unpacked the bike. It took 10-15 minutes to reach at petrol pump. It’s hardly a kilometer away from the railway exit point. Uni gulped down unleaded petrol worth 750 in ease, some 17.?? Liters. Now our steed was ready for long run with full stomach. Not to mention here, we ended up with out morning tasks in the train only to save time.

It was about 7.30, when we asked the direction towards Srinagar. Because of the itch to ride we decided to have our breakfast after some riding hours but dint forgot to carry water.





After the breakfast break at around 9, we continued on Jammu-Srinagar Highway (NH 1A). The beautiful road just invited to RIP on it. I don’t remember where we did our lunch, thanks to my volatile memory .







With many photo breaks we finally entered Kashmir valley at around 03.30 PM. We stopped at the first view point for quite long time and it was really beautiful to see the green sprayed valley below.













The next stop was Shinagar of course. We entered the city at around 5.30 PM. It was my third visit to Srinagar. We entered thru the chaotic Dalgate area. We had plans to stay there 1day before starting for Ladakh. So earlier we decided to stay 1 day in a budget hotel and one day in a Houseboat. The sun was doing his pack-up when we were riding along with Dal Lake and we had enough time before it gets dark. So we rode to Nagin Lake, another small but beautiful lake of Srinagar that I like most. It’s about 15 kilometers from Dal Gate.
Parked the bike beside the lake and just sat on the steps leading in to the lake. Like any other tourist place we were surrounded by agents asking for houseboats. Actually there are very less/no hotels in that area as it’s off street. Requested them to leave me for half an hour so that I can relax a bit, then we got a cool offer, a Houseboat for 700 bucks with food. And the prices were as low as 300 per room. What we got was a real steal, one double bedded room with attached toilet, a dining area, a leaving space, a balcony and a terrace at first level. And it was the whole boat.













Route – Jammu-Udhampur-Batote-Ramban-Banihal-Anantnag-Qazigund-Srinagar
Total distance covered - 324 Kilometers
Road condition - Excellent (hardly 2-3 bad patches of few kilometers)
Important places - Udhampur (Each bike company’s service center is available, I went to Honda people and they were lightening fast. It took them 3-4 minutes to change the engine oil and replace the side stand), Qazigund (many shops and factories for cricket bats)
Tourist interest points - Patni Top (I really don’t know why people go there)
Precautions - Nothing special. Fuel is not a problem and there is habitation at regular intervals. Good road side dhabas for food. Just be little careful of monkeys on road, one really scared me.


Day-III (16th July ‘09)

I always wanted to visit Old Srinagar, and what could be the best to take the water route along with a Sikara ride!!! It was an early morning start and we were back to the boat after 3-4 hours. And now it was time for some rest and then shopping for the things those were left from the essential list.













Lotus Garden…












Old Srinagar…
















Bought polythine for luggage and proceeded to Shree Sankaracharya Temple. It’s under the control of Army because one can aim the whole city from this place. Another highest point is Srinagar Palace which is not accessible to the public for the security reasons.







Some random snaps/macro attempt…








Next while visiting Mughal Gardens we met ‘Sourin’, a guy from Mumbai roaming in Ladakh region for more than 30 days on his ‘Yam FZ’. This decent guy became a very good friend in a short while and his inputs made everything easy and smooth. Thanks man, your plan came out really well. He made the final layout of our ride spending more than 2 hours on it.

Sourin and Om…




Sunset from houseboat terrace…


And here we decided to go Shree Amarnath Jee. It was a four hour trek route from Baltal, some 100 kms from Srinagar towards Leh. We planned to start early morning from Srinagar for Baltal, some 20-25 kms from Sonmarg. We thought we will be back by the same day evening but it was a different story next day.


Route – @ Srinagar
Total distance covered - 52 Kilometers
Road condition - Excellent city roads, some parts are very dusty.
Event of the day - Sikara ride at Dal Lake and watching sunset from the houseboat terrace.
Important places - Old city (can get all your necessary things)
Tourist interest points - Shree Shankaracharya Temple (beautiful aerial view of Srinagar), Sikara ride at Dal Lake, Mughal Gardens-Nisath garden, Chasmasahi, Parimahal, Old city)
Precautions – Polythene is banned in Srinagar, sales person may bother you, avoid roaming late in the city.

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www.theindianexpedition.com

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happybiking

Cool...yeat another ladakh...Guess I have already seen the pics on Orkut but would be gr8 along with words...bring it on pal !!!

P.S: Few of your pics can very well be used by Kashmir tourism department

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...Back to HIBERNATE mode...


1200kms : Across Tamil nadu & pondicherryl

To the end of land!!!

Breakfast Ride!!! Mulshi Lake...

archistar

Day-IV (17th July ‘09)

At around 7.00 AM we were on the road. And we had to reach Baltal as soon as possible. It was easy to cruise little fast in the morning. The morning view in the valley was awesome.











Gulmarg is a beautiful place with lots of horses gazing on the green carpet. I even dint stopped to capture it thinking that will back to the place by evening for the night stay.
It was a task parking the bike (it was the only bike among around 1K vehicles), keeping the entire luggage before we start climbing. Public vehicle was restricted to go beyond a certain point. Shree Amarnath Yatra tips will follow later.
We started at around 10.30 AM. After trekking some 5-7 kilometers we were restless. It was little steep actually with big boulders. And it is tougher when compared with the route to Shree Kedarnath Jee. Before reaching half route we hired pony. And the route was more dangerous after it. Find them in the snaps and it was really scary at certain points.











Find the route in these pictures…






Before reaching there we decided to return via Heli service. But to our surprise there were no tickets for the same day and we made it sure that we are not returning in the same route after seeing some incidents on the way. We never thought about such a route and we need to take the Heli service. The only option was to stay there for the night. After the darshan we thought about what to do. And to another surprise we had exactly 6540 rupees with us and 6400 is for the tickets… OMG. What to do!!! But god was there, food was free there in Bhandara and there was no restaurant at all. One problem was solved. Now what about night stay!!! Thankfully we became a friend with a young saint from Mathura who offered us to stay in his tent and when I asked for the rent he casually said, ‘doston se koi paisa leta hai kya!’. Else other people were charging 100 bucks per head. It was a great relief indeed and later I told him the whole story and he laughed to the floor saying that god is there for everybody. He also told that nobody demands money here.
There were enough blankets in the tent to counteract the freezing temperature there. We had to start early for the queue to book our tickets.













Tents on thick layer of Ice…









Route – Srinagar-Sonmarg-Baltal-Shree Amarnath Jee
Total distance covered - 92 Kilometers
Road condition – Good Tarmac overall, scary trek route from Baltal to Shree Amarnathjee
Event of the day – Shree Amarnath Jee darshan
Important places – Forgot the name, some 50-70 kms from Srinagar (last fuel pump and ATM-J&K Bank before Kargil)
Tourist interest points - Gulmarg
Precautions – Tank up at Srinagar or before ??? (10 kms before Gulmarg) because the next pump is at Kargil, some 180-190 km ahead



Day-V (18th July ‘09)

We started early for the queue to book our tickets. That humble man was sleeping and I calmly put 100 rupees and my visiting card under his pilow as he asked for my number earlier. Then I waked him to say goodbye but he was deep in his sleep. Thanking him again.











This balaclava really helped a lot which was in the jacket pocket by chance to resist the cold breeze…




It was a long waiting time to get the tickets and returning to the base.

And now we are back on the saddle again with the blessings of Shree Amarnath Jee. We were late to our schedule so thought not to return to Gulmarg and decided to hit Kargil for night stay.
Fuel gauze was showing little more than ½ empty. And to my calculations I’ve a range of 200+ kms now. So I wanted petrol, after enquiring got to know that I did a mistake ignoring the fuel pump some 40-45 kms before. So headed for Kargil rather than wasting 3-4 hours to return for fueling because it was the next fueling point. We had total 40 rupees with us until we reach Kargil. Some 150 kms to go today and Zojila was the only pass in between.
We reached Zojila at around 10.00 AM. It was the first pass of the trip. It was quite easy but the road was terribly bad.







From Zozila there are two descending routes for Srinagar. The other route is higher than the normal track and is a jeep track. Army diverts the traffic via this route if they find the regular route terribly bad or slushy.











It was easy till Kargil with many photo breaks and we were there before 2 o’clock. First we went to an ATM for cash and got some extra for emergency. Before having lunch we decided to get a room but got a rear flat then. But thankfully I was in front of a Puncture shop where I was enquiring about the road condition for ZANSKAR.
The road from Kargil divides in two ways, left one over a bridge is for Leh and the other fine tar road towards right leads to Zanskar, another beautiful valley on top of my list.
There was an iron nail in the rear tire. We had enough time with us to ride some more. Mulbekh was the next point some 40-45 kms from Kargil and we were not sure if there is any provision to stay there or not. Kargil was completely boring so thought to go to Mulbekh after fueling and seeing Kargil war memorial and to return to Kargil if we dint get any accommodation there. To our surprise Drass War Memorial is called Kargil War Memorial. So we missed it in the intension to see Kargil War Memorial. Anyways a salute is pending to real heroes of India for the next time.
Now I needed fuel badly. Kargil Filling Station was the last fueling point before Leh. IOCL really rocks, you can expect them any where. Thirsty Uni again gulped nearly 15 liters of unleaded petrol. It was more than enough to reach Leh .



Mulbekh is a beautiful place famous for its chamba statue. There are also 2-3 monasteries and the surrounding nature is just beautiful. Accommodation is not at all a problem with a JKTDC guest house and many other private options. 2 restaurants are there in front of Chamba statue. We opted for JKTDC with 300 bucks with neat and clean rooms. Power is definitely a problem here. Only source is Diesel Generator which supplies power from 8-11 in night and 4-7 in the morning for prayer purposes.

















A monastery…


















Two Oriya guyz from Bangy…














Chamba statue…


Lamayuru was the point of attraction for me for the next day and for that we needed a quick start.


Route – Shree Amarnath Jee-Baltal-Zojila pass-Drass-Kargil-Mulbekh
Total distance covered - 170 Kilometers
Road condition – Over all Good, a bad stretch at Zojila (expect silky routes by next season, road widing work in progress)
Event of the day – Helicopter ride, Zojila-first pass of the trip, Lost SX 100’s carry pouch at Zojila, Flat rear of Uni at Kargil, Evening at Mulbekh.
Important places – Drass(Kargil war memorial), Kargil(big city, all facilities available)
Tourist interest points – Kargil war memorial at Drass, Mulbekh (Chamba statue & monasteries)
Precautions – Be careful while ascending Zojila.

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archistar

Day-VI (19th July ‘09) (LEH DAY)

Got my eyes opened at around 5.30 AM and after peeping outside I couid not resist to go out with the camera. The sky was simply dramatic and to it’s best during the whole trip.







Again an hour of sleep and we were ready by 7.00. After tea and some captures we started. Lamayuru was in the mind. Namikala and Fotula were to be crossed before it.
This was the most beautiful stretch of the whole trip with beautiful landscapes all around. Crossing Fotula at around 10.00, we reached Lamayuru at sharp 11.

























It was breakfast time before entering the famous ‘Lamayuru Gonpa’. It’s a place worth visit. After spending good 2 hours there we headed for Alchi, the 1000 year old monastery. Let the pictures describe about Lamayuru.

























































Our next stop was Alchi. It is a monastery of more than 1000 year old.











The time was 3.30 when we reached Alchi, some 10 kilometers off Srinagar-Leh highway across a bridge. Another beautiful place having the oldest monastery in that region, the main temple is more than 1000 year old and stands with the support of 4 wooden pillars. By 4.45 we were off for Leh.







The last stretch before Leh on Indus valley was awesome with an unreal blue sky. In this stretch we faced crosswinds and it was little difficult to pull the bike even in 1st gear. A lot of photo breaks in between and reached Leh at around 6.30 PM.















We opted for a home stay in the old part of the city and close to Leh palace and Polo ground/DC office. I will post in detail about the staying options and getting the permits later.
It was time to rest and some interaction with the owner of the home stay. Next day plans were easy, just to get the permits, roaming around Leh and going to see the annual festival at Phi-yang monastery.


Route – Mulbekh-Lamayuru-Alchi-Leh
Total distance covered - 197 Kilometers
Road condition – Good (you will find some beautiful stretches to RIP, road widening is in progress so we can expect butter smooth roads by next season and without bad stretches in mountains the ride can never be a fun )
Event of the day – Riding in Indus Valley, the most ancient civilization of the world. 150 cc under the seat was not a problem along with the pillion though power failure is a general symptom in these altitudes.
Important places – Lamayuru (food & accommodation)
Tourist interest points – Lamayuru (monastery), Alchi (monastery), Phi-yang (monastery), Magnetic hill
Precautions – Be careful for crosswinds at planes, the speed of the wind may vary with the position of hills around so expect a sudden change. Don’t push your bike hard, when you feel extreme power failure, then just take some break. It helps a lot.

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archistar

Hey Soumen, thanks ya...

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www.theindianexpedition.com

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archistar

Day-VII (20th July ‘09)

It was an easy day. Woke up late and after enjoying Ladakhi bread in breakfast at around 10.30 AM we headed for DC Office to apply for inner line permits. It was only 5 minute walk from the place and close to Polo Ground. It took around 20-25 minutes to get all the work done and at about 11.00 the permit was in our hands. We applied permit for 7 days for Hunder, Pangong-Tso and Tso-Moriri, though Pangong was not in our list.

From Indus Valley view point…




Next was Phi-yang monastery to experience their annual festival. It is some 20 kilometers from Leh towards Srinagar. You have to take the first right turn after the Indian Oil LPG bottling plant. It is a small but beautiful monastery. I spent more than 5 hours there and it was a great experience.


























Then we came back to room to take some rest and then headed for Changspa and ‘Shanti Stupa’. It was almost dark when we reached Shanti Stupa but the feeling there was heavenly. Such a beautiful place it is and I visited it again before returning. You will see the whole Leh city from here and the Stupa is standing to its glory with a beautiful backdrop of mountains.









Khardung La was to be conquered next day and we planned to do our night stay at Hunder as Panamic was the other option. Both are the last points till where tourists are allowed. Panamic has a famous ‘Hot water spring’ at some 12000+ feet altitude where Hunder is famous for ‘Ladakh Sand Dunes’ and ‘Double Humped Camel’. We had to travel light so packing was to be done today. Choose all the spares/tools and some clothes in a backpack and tank bag. Petrol was not an issue because we were supposes to cover maximum 400 kilometers in next two days. Got the tank full at ‘Choglamsar’ on Leh-Manali highway in the evening.


Route – Leh-Phiyang-Leh
Total distance covered - 71 Kilometers (34597-34668)
Road condition - Excellent
Event of the day – Festival at Phi-yang Monastery, Evening at Shanti Stupa
Important places – Airport road (bike repairing and spare part shops)
Tourist interest points – Indus Valley view point, Phi-yang monastery
Precautions – Don’t forget to carry water.



Day-VIII (21st July ‘09)

Another easy day was ahead, only to cover some 130 kms to reach Hunder. We decided to skip Panamic which is famous for hot water spring. Khardung La was the target and I dint know how the bike will behave with a pillion on board. We started at around 10.30 AM after breakfast.
The road was really inviting and there was an excitement for Khardung La. We met some bikers on the route who were returning from the top. I even saw 2 guys on a platina, then I thought if it can do so why not Unicorn!!! At North Pullu we had to submit a copy of our permit along with the registration number of the bike.



After North Pullu the road came to form and there was an army consignment ahead of us. Managed to overtake all of them easily, the army guys are so cooperative that I dint even blow the horn once. It was little cold and windy when we reached at the top at 11.15 AM. And it was quite easy. Many people suggested us not to stay at K Top for an extended period but we took our own time. It also drizzled a little and it made us to proceed further. But it was again a small break to capture the ice crystals.







Some posing sessions






After Khardung La…
















The next stop was for Lunch but I forgot the name. The view of the mountain range and valley was just breathtaking. Next we stopped at Diskit monastery, some 8-10 kilometers before Hunder and after crossing ‘Khalsar Loop’. A big Buddha statue is being constructed here.

















After reaching Hunder at 5.00 PM, we went to Himalayan Guest House. It was a beautiful place to stay and especially it has a beautiful vegetable garden. Then we dumped our luggage and went for the double humped camel ride, though it was not a great experience for us.



















Only BSNL mobile works here. And there is a STD booth at 125 RCC premises.
After a good dinner we were off to bed. It was quite cold there and there was also no hurry for the next day as we had to return via same route.



Route – Leh-Khardung La-Hunder (Nubra)
Total distance covered - 148 Kilometers
Road condition – Good (except at Khardungla)
Event of the day – Crossing Khardung La, Double humped camel ride at humder
Important places – North Pullu (permit to be submitted here)
Tourist interest points - Khardung La (World’s highest motor-able road), Hunder (Ladakh sand dunes & double humped camel), Panamik (Hot water spring), Diskit (monastery)
Precautions – 10 kilometers from both sides of Khardung La always remains in bad shape, Drink lots of water to avoid AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), A pair of woolen socks helps a lot to keep your feet worm, Be prepared for ‘No Network Coverage’ if you don’t use a BSNL/MTNL postpaid.

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archistar

Day-IX (22nd July ‘09)

Another easy day again and Khardung La was to be conquered again. Panamik was cancelled because none of us found any interest for the hot water spring. Thought for some shootout session in Sand dunes but was not in a mood to walk to an extended distance and also wanted to reach Leh ASAP.











Tso-moriri was the only thing striking in the mind and there was some confusion on Korzok-Pang route. I was not even sure that if that route exists or not, though one taxi driver assured me before that one can reach Pang via Tso-kar.
Anyways with these wired thoughts we started at 10.00 AM. Met 2 guys from South Africa after a kilometer from Diskit, who were out of petrol on their RE. And they were finding some problem in communicating with the local guys present there. After few enquiries a boy guided them to a shop in the main market where Petrol was available.







Then we started for Leh and with occasional Photo breaks we reached K Top at 1.30 PM. And to our surprise it started snowing. The weather was bad it was quite cold too. Omi ordered hot Maggie at the K Top Café and I was doing some cycling with a borrowed one. But got exhausted soon after adding some movement to that ‘0 Horse Power’ at such a high altitude.









Some Fact about Khardung La…




After 1 hour stay there we started. Stopped at India Gate for snap break and after it there was a continuous ride till Leh.









After descending from K Top, I was concerned for the rear sprocket of ‘Uni’. I realized that I did a mistake; I forgot when I changed the chain set of Uni last time!!! And it seems to be perfect for the ride to my eyes but it was not.
Then we went to Leh Palace directly as it closes at 6.00 PM. There is nothing much to see in the palace except the temple inside but the view of the Leh city is spectacular. But I liked the place very much.























Then dropped Om at the home stay and headed towards market to search the spare. But unfortunate, no spares for ‘Honda’. So just get every thing handy before hitting Len on your Honda. My experience was saying that I can ride for more than 1000 kms if I ride properly. Asked a local mechanic there in airport road and he also ensured the same and I got a bit relaxed.
While returning I found the dramatic cloud formation in the sky and the only thing striked to mind was ‘Santi Stupa’. Picked up the camera bag, tripod from room, Om preferred to stay at Changspa and I proceeded to Santi Stupa.
The view was really awesome and before taking out the camera I preferred to sit for a while and to enjoy it. And it a beautiful moment of my life, I was seated there for more than an hour and then returned back.















With Addy’s Sigma 70-300, I was carrying with me… Thanks again bro


Changspa is the place dominated by foreign tourists so every kind of facility is available here with a wide range of staying options and a wide variety of food.


Route – Hunder- Khardung La- Leh
Total distance covered - 142 Kilometers
Road condition – Leh-Hunder road remains close every Monday for maintenance, so one can expect better roads in initial days
Event of the day – Snow fall at K Top, Sunset from Santi Stupa, Dinner at Changspa
Important places – Diskit-Petrol is available with local shops.
Tourist interest points - Khardung La (World’s highest motor-able road), Hunder (Ladakh sand dunes & double humped camel), Panamik (Hot water spring), Diskit (monastery), Santi Stupa in Leh.
Precautions – Don’t underestimate the sand patches on tar road, drive slow on them. No ‘Honda’ spare parts at Leh.



Day-X (23rd July ‘09)

This was the day of the trip. There were many excitements including taking a wrong turn, riding alone without seeing anybody, riding in sand, riding on burger size boulders and finally reaching at Tso-moriri.

We were supposed to start early because I was aware of the non existence of road in last 25 kilometer stretch to the lake/village Korzok. But we started at around 9.30 AM. Got the tank full at Choglamsar and again at Karu. And also got 2 liters of extra fuel for emergency. After Karu we followed a wrong road sign and went some 40+ kms towards Pangong. Pangong was not in our list so nothing was in mind about the route. Though we enquired at Shakti but everyone directed us towards Pangong, later I came to know that lake means they (local people) understand Pangong . Anyways finally one army personnel guided us the proper route but we had to return some 30+ kms. This is how we wasted 2 precious riding hours.

But before this we already had skipped Shey Palace and Aalchi Monastery due to lack of time. And I was little upset for this too.

The proper route to Tso-moriri is bear to your right on Leh-Manali highway after Karu until you get a bridge to cross the river. Don’t cross the bridge and bear to left, after a few hundred meters there is a police check post and you need to deposit a copy of your permit.

The ride was mainly monotonous till Chumathang, here you need to deposit a copy of your permit and the lake is 60 kilometers from here. The guard also told that there is no road for last 20-25 kms and one need to follow the Jeep track to reach the lake. But after riding few kilometers and seeing the road condition I was unable to believe that there is no road. The road was newly constructed and butter smooth. But it was hard to ride because of the cross winds. But at a point suddenly the road ended and I had to believe that there is really no road. And we were the alone there and it was going to dark so the only option was to practice off-roading with a pillion. After 14-16 kms we got the first view of a lake and it was not Tso-moriri as there was no symbol and the track was also leading further. After 5 kilometers we got the first glimpse of the lake and it was amazing but the sky was fully covered with clouds. After reaching at Lake we found co symbol of civilization expect few boards describing not to camp at the lake side. What the hell is this!! Where is village Korzok then!! There was no one to whom we can ask about the road or village. It was the festival time in the Korzok monastery but there was no symbol of it. But the jeep track was going somewhere along with the lake and we decided to follow that. After 5 kilometers we got in to Korzok village which was hidden by the hills. It was a relief.

There was a camp site at the first lot of the settlement, and they charge 3K per night. We went a kilometer ahead to the Korzok village and there are plenty options to stay including tents, camp sites and home stays. We opted for a home stay with a nice view of the lake. It was almost dark by then and it was quite windy and cold at 15000+ feet. And Om got a bad headache so we decided to take rest at the home stay after having roti n omelet, as our initial plan was to stay a day or two to capture the sunrise and sunset and also to see the festival at Korzok monastery.




















Route – Leh-Karu-Chumathang-Korzok (Tso moriri)
Total distance covered - 266 Kilometers
Road condition – Overall good, but the last 25 kms road does not exist but a perfect stretch for off-roading.
Event of the day – Riding towards Pangong instead of Tso-moriri, 25 kilometers of off roading with pillion.
Important places - Karu (last petrol pump)
Tourist interest points – Tso-moriri
Precautions – Carry fuel if you are planning to explore more and returning via Pang, Less habited areas, No power/network at Korzok so do save some life in your camera.



Day-XI (24th July ‘09)

Last night was simply horrible. My whole body was aching like any thing and Om got a very bad cold and tired too. I was doubtful if AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) hit him because he also got a headache. He slept with a disprin but it was quite cold for me and I was trying to figure out some stars in the clouded sky.
We slept like a pig and when the morning alarm woke me up to capture the sunrise and I got disappointed like anything. The sky was all white and it was windy. The reflection of the mountains around and no blue sky was not there on water because of the wind. It was the only reason I choose it over Pangong. The water of Pangong is definitely dramatic but it hardly shows any reflection of the surrounded mountains because of its vastness, but after seeing Rocky’s photographs from Pangong ‘m thinking that it would be better to see at least blue water . But we have no control over nature. It also had its own charm in those cloudy windy days.
Anyways then I slept again for 3 hours and woke up at around 8.00 AM. Om woke up little later and he got a bad cold though there was no headache. He was unable to bear the cold. After having our breakfast we went to Korzok monastery and the festival was yet to start so we went to the lake side. The view and experience was simply amazing. Though there were no great photographs but there was a peace of mind. Took the bike to the lake side and seated there for a long time.





























But after an hour Om dint felt well and we decided to return back in fear of not to get a bad health condition. Because we had to stay there for the next day also because the main festival was on the second day.
So we wrapped up leaving the Korzok Festival behind and started for Pang, the complete unknown route. Asked the owner of our home stay and he told that there is good road/tar road after Tso-kar. And the road diverts after 40+ kilometers from Korzok. I was just expecting not to get bad roads like the 25 kms stretch.







But the road was literally bad beyond my expectations. It was literary a task to cover 25+80 kilometers in off-roading track. There was everything on road, big boulders, dirt, mud, salt dunes, sand, rocks and even bushes. The road work is in progress and by next season we can expect Pang-Tso Kar-Tso Moriri tar route.





Some 20 kilometers before Tso-kar we were chased by rain. Though we were geared with rain suit and the luggage were also under rain cover, but we were afraid of the road condition ahead. Tso-kar was visible but there was no sign of road but finally we reached at Tso-kar village and from here the tar road started. Kind enough rain god poured all his blessings once we entered in to a tent-hotel for our lunch. It was 3.20 PM then and we were seeing human beings after some 70-80 kms.
One interesting fact here, there are total 20-30 houses in Tso-kar village and at that time there were only 3-4 people in that village. Asking about the others, the only dhaba wala, where we took shelter replied that all are shifted to Manali-Leh highway with their assets (sheep) to feed them. And every individual have more than 1000 sheeps/goats. I did not believe this until I saw them later.
Finally the rain slowed down and we decided to go further, we had to reach Pang. After 15 kilometers we touched Manali-Leh highway. The right goes to Leh and we took the left for Manali. The view after the rain was amazing. We were running short of time and had to reach Pang for our night stay so we took very less photo breaks. After it we entered More Planes, a 40 kilometer stretch at high altitudes. Again bad roads as the road construction work were in progress. Truckers made their own way in the planes and were zipping with dust trails.



















Finally managed to reach Pang at 6.40 PM and there were still some day light left so after arranging accommodation I wanted to return few kilometers back to capture some photographs but after dumping my luggage I noticed the front flat tyre. But there was a tyre repair shop in the front. So no photography as it was dark by the time got the tyre fixed. Finally the off-roading took its toll .

Route – Korzok-Tso Kar-Pang
Total distance covered – ___ Kilometers
Road condition - Bad
Event of the day – Sitting at the shore of Tso-moriri, Off roading, Being chased by rain, Flat front at Pang.
Important places – Tso Kar (small village, food and accommodation available), Pang (army camp, many tented accommodation, food and a puncture repairing shop)
Tourist interest points – Tso-kar (wrong, every view was beautiful)
Precautions – No petrol, No electricity, No puncture shop expect Pang.

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