Leh-Ladakh - A Journey Out of Eternal Dreams - Page 7 - xBhp.com : The Global Indian Biking Community

Jayakrishna · 12-06-2011, 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rahul2880

thanks mate

No probs..All the best for your plans...

Jayakrishna · 01-03-2012, 05:30 PM

Day11 - Upshi to Sarchu

Route: Upshi-Tanglangla-More Plains-Pang-Gata Loops-Sarchu
Total Distance: 200+kms
Time: 7Hrs**

As said before, yesterday's relaxing evening has taken me to a long and refreshing sleep. We all woke up around 7.30am, its actually those honking trucks which made us awake. Asked the house owner if we could get hot water for bath, he laughed at us sarcastically and told that their family members take bath once in a week with cold water and we are excepting hot water from them.

With little Aw!! factor we decided to skip bath for the second consecutive day as the immensive Tanglangla is waiting for us few kms away.

As usual, Again gone through the pain of freshening up with so called liquid form of ice. By today, it has become a routine job for us and all started packing things on their own without any external body forcing to do so

. Ronak with a big smile told that he went to Leh last night, got tanked up and changed the engine oil. I was sleeping like a dead body by the time he came back. Got the saddles up on our clean and shining bikes after all the efforts been put yesterday for that. Left for breakfast and Hari as usual finds some or the other to ask about route conditions at the last minute. Lot of things were missing from our saddles but never bothered as long as our wallets are there. Finished the breakfast and its time for us to hit the hills again.

9.30am We were ready to roll and a funny thing happened between Hari and the house owner, I went to settle the bill and with the remaining change I thought of buying a Lip Balm and got one. Twister was not working on that and asked the owner to exchange it with a new one. He was generous enough, tried two more but with the same result and finally he found a good one. Looking at that Hari also went to buy one, after sometime he came back with little disappointed face, I asked him if he checked it before buying, he told yes and owner got pissed off at replacing and cribbed at him as should he be replacing the entire shop or what.

There begins the Race towards world's second mighty pass. NH 21 looked promising for the first 2-3 kms but gave up after that, leaving a challenge to us with loose gravel through out. With a rare existence of tarmac here and there we crossed all those villages which exists in Map. They call it Meru, Gya and Rumse. Nature Signs of nearing Tanglangla by changing the vistas from beautiful to spectacular, Man!! I call this as riding into heaven, Was expecting a lot of snow this time

. Slowly we started the incline, Unlike the other passes, Tangalangla has got amazing visibility even from 10-20 kms away from the top. Roads just exist so as the incline. It looked almost flat and takes you the top slowly and steadily. No Power loss neither to the bike nor the rider what so ever. Enough amount of snow this time even on the road but all that was crushed by the trucks. So we were safe.

Leaving Memories Behind..

Soon We reached the top and got stunned by the beauty around, is this is what we call as dreams come true?? that too one by one in a span of 11 days. Amazed, amused, confused...what not, had all sort mixed feelings rolling around. It was an exotic mountain pass, hence I call it the "Spectacular Tanglang La".

My Helmet fell down from the bike and visor came off, Tried to fix it and then I felt how less was the oxygen there. My fingers lost its senses and I was pushing to the limits of my energy just to fix the visor. Remember one of the school lessons, "Oxygen is very important for Human beings"

Ronak Always looking uneasy at the peaks, not the mountain sickness but he is sick of mountains

Moved from there and started descending, Thank God!! we didn't come from Manali side, down hill was so steep with bad patches and its time to be extra careful to avoid one more fall. So many shortcuts will tempt you, I took a few of them and ended up with a scary experience where I was sliding down for around 50 meters using both my legs as brakes. No traction what so ever, neither the tires, nor my shoes. Luckily no fall this time. New lesson to the biker fellas planning to get Leh'd. "Try this at your own Risk or do not attempt at all".

Soon after the down hill we hit the famous "Moore Plains", our bad luck, all the tarmac was dug up as they were lying a new road and one can take their own road through those vast plains. we had to go off the track fight with the dust and loose sand. Dust was about a feet high, had a very tough time tackling through with out any fall. We were doing an amazing speed of 20 kmph. :dance2: It bought us a feeling that we are riding in a desert in the middle of cold mountains all of a sudden. Such a vast plain at that altitude :surprise: its definitely "A desert in the Sky"

Look at the bike condition

It took us a real long time to for us to do the bad patches and finally found some fresh tarmac, started revving up the engine but soon the plains ended.

A bit of descent from Moore plains took us to Pang, where we planned to stop for lunch and so we did. A long lunch break, met some Jeep guys from Punjab who were a part some rally. Paaji was very experienced in the terrain. They come to Leh many times in a year. How Lucky

Our bikes with full of dust and Paaji's PJO(they call it so) behind.

Finished lunch and moved on towards our destination tonight, "Sarchu". Started ascending from Pang and found it was Lachung La. After that Nakee la just went like a mushroom. Did those two passes with ease. Ronak was not even in a mood to stop for pics and so do I.

Hari the poser as usual

Soon we reached Gata Loops, I somehow missed the board at the start but realized that these are So called Loops looking at the beautiful curvy road descending towards Sarchu. Again we were bit lucky here by not coming from Manali seeing all those struggling trucks and bikers climbing up. Road was in a good condition and it was a speedy descent for us without much trouble.

Pano by Ronak:

.

A few kms after Gata loops, we reached our destination, it was still around 3.45pm and had a thought of stretching towards Darcha but didn't want to risk the water crossings at Barlalacha La in the evening time. So stopped there and found a tent for Rs.400 per night. We heard of beds being as hard as rocks but here the beds are practically rocks. A set of rocks and some thick blankets on top of it going to make our night. Met few other Bulleteirs coming from Manali, they were also from Bangalore and shared their experiences at Rothang la and Baralacha La. Weather was getting too cold outside and we had to found the universal medicine to keep ourselves warm

. Tent owner asked us to order for dinner and was seeing stars when we told "Egg fried Rice". Taught him on how to prepare it and finally got it done in his own way. 3 Cheers for our successful journey so far and slipped under the thick blankets soon after that.

Day 12 - Enter the civilization through Baralacha La- Coming shortly

Sunil S Reddy · 01-12-2012, 08:18 PM

Nice Pics Jay... waiting for more!

Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.

Jayakrishna · 01-19-2012, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sunil S Reddy

Nice Pics Jay... waiting for more!

thanks le.. yeah will update as soon as i get some life.

Jayakrishna · 03-22-2012, 12:27 PM

Day12 - Sarchu to Manali

Route: Sarchu-Baralachla-ZingZing bar-Darcha-Keylong-Rothang La-Manali
Total Distance: 240+kms
Time: 8Hrs**

Spending a night for the second time at an altitude of 14000 feet and sleeping under a thick blanket with lesser oxygen!!! no that wasn't a pleasant sleep at all. It was around 6am I think, heard the bulletiers from Bangalore leaving the place but we 3 still tried to catch some sleep as if there is nothing for us to do

. Woke up around 8am and the struggle this time was not with water but the toilet, one has to bend each and every part of their body to fit into. This was one of the worst experience we ever had in our trip and that leads to our 3rd consecutive day without bath

Got freshened up, had breakfast and got the saddles up to rock n roll. Seems to be a sunny day but never mind, moved on from there and crossed J&K border, finished the entry formalities at Himachal Pradesh check post and moved on towards the beautiful Baralachla. Just after Check post, Bharatpur has also got some tent accommodations but the only thing running in our mind was the water crossings at Baralach la. Roads were good enough till the base of Baralach la but after that it was a real test. Amount of snow was increasing either side of the road as we started to climb up. Small water crossings here and there but were easy enough to tackle. My Bike has lost breath and refused to move at one of the water crossing but luckily Paaji was behind us in the Jeep, helped me to move over the gravel and we finally found our way. They too stayed at Sarchu but we never knew.

.

Words will not be enough if I have to describe the beauty of Baralach la. If there is something called as heaven, it cant get better than this. Paaji had stopped behind to make a snowman but we kept moving. We never knew when we reached the top but soon felt like we are on the decline.

The Combination of my two favorite colors

.

Roads on the second half of the pass were better. Everything seems to be going good, and ride has become smooth all of a sudden but this terrain is not meant for this right. Yes!! Crossing through a water stream which is almost 0 degrees and powerful enough to take us and the bikes away in case of a fall. That was really scary and fun at the same time. Ronak and Hari made it with minimal difficulties but ZMR's fairing made me to use all my strength to hold the bike up straight through out the stream. Did a zig zag ride and finally came out of it. Ronak had some Ice flakes in shoes after coming out

Deep upto the knee :surprise:

PJO crossing without any fuss

After Effects

We let the famous Zing Zing bar pass through our RVMs as our destination for lunch was either Darcha or Keylong, after this we finally entered into a green world

It was so Refreshing and heavenly to see green mountains covered with snow on top. Going round and round through mountains with few more water crossings we finally reached Darcha and decided to stop for lunch.

After a relaxed break, Paaji just reached Darcha when we were about to leave. Thought we wont be able to meet again, thanked them lot and moved on. Keylong was still 30kms away and we passed through the beautiful Jispa on the way. If there is a second time I'm getting Leh'd, Jispa would be my overnight stay (I guess Ronak also told the same)

. With few more Water crossings we reached Keylong and finally headed to Tandi. Ronak still had fuel till Manali, Hari was like how would one go ahead without filling here and ZMR's fuel gauge was still showing 3 points. I thought of risking it through Rothang so it will be Pangong to Manali with a Full tank

The next big task was Rothang, composition of good and bad roads we crossed Khoksar and started climbing Rothang, kept doing it on and on and on but it never seemed like going to end. To add up the frustration If I drink water at one hair pin bend, it is ready to come out at the other corner as if there was no kidney to process it

so with lots of pee breaks we finally reached the top which was completely fogged out and had no visibility whatsoever

. We could only see dusky head lights of vehicles coming in the opposite direction. Speeds were restricted to a max of 15-20kmph. It was like we went high into sky right from Khoksar and now on the way down is definitely a test for the rides and riders. Mud upto Knee level, traffic Jam with Huge lines of trucks and tackling between them in that road conditions was a nightmare. Ronak had a fall and became half mud man

. It was almost dark by the time we came out of all the Rothang's Mess. Hari always says if we had taken Manali-Leh route, we would have returned from Rothang itself

. 3 Days without bath and a pass like this had made us to push hard to Manali as fast as we can for relaxing hot water bath.

We were so tired that we stopped and found a hotel even before entering Manali. Ronak wanted a Separate room to clean up all his mess because of the fall. Hot water bath after 3 days, wow!! that's the best feeling we could have at that situation. Ordered food and called Family,friends, almost everyone to share our Joy. These 12 days went like hallucination, feeling like our chests are pumped up with pride. Finally we too join the club "Got Leh'd".

Memories till now.

BlackScorpian · 03-24-2012, 10:54 AM

Hey Jay.....

Great write-up man....
And amazing pics to complement it!!!!!

Jayakrishna · 03-26-2012, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackScorpian

Hey Jay.....

Great write-up man....
And amazing pics to complement it!!!!!

Thank you Sushil

Txschadab · 03-28-2012, 04:57 PM

Cant believe i read it all in one go...phew.... its so interesting, feel like iam already doing it, amazing way to sum up 12 days, very expressive......wish me luck we r doing the same route from 28th May 12 till the 13th June from Pune

InsaneRider007 · 03-29-2012, 01:52 AM

wasted almost 3 hours in office reading ur log DAMN !!!

but poora paisa vasool bhai (though I didn't had to pay any

)

Nicely written, superb narration, hats off... words are falling short

Congrats on getting Lehd to all of u. Dunno when I'm gonna get Lehd. Had planned to do this year but due to some reasons, I had to postpone next year

Jayakrishna · 03-31-2012, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Txschadab

Cant believe i read it all in one go...phew.... its so interesting, feel like iam already doing it, amazing way to sum up 12 days, very expressive......wish me luck we r doing the same route from 28th May 12 till the 13th June from Pune

Thanks Mate...All the best for your plans...But 28th May seems quite early considering the weather this year...have you got alternative days..

Quote:

Originally Posted by InsaneRider007

wasted almost 3 hours in office reading ur log DAMN !!!

but poora paisa vasool bhai (though I didn't had to pay any

)

Nicely written, superb narration, hats off... words are falling short

Congrats on getting Lehd to all of u. Dunno when I'm gonna get Lehd. Had planned to do this year but due to some reasons, I had to postpone next year

Thanks a lot

, All the best for next year plans..Sapno ka phal bhi meeta hota hain

01-03-2012, 05:30 PM	#62 (permalink)
Jayakrishna Sole rider Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Bengaluru Posts: 108	Day11 - Upshi to Sarchu Route: Upshi-Tanglangla-More Plains-Pang-Gata Loops-Sarchu Total Distance: 200+kms Time: 7Hrs As said before, yesterday's relaxing evening has taken me to a long and refreshing sleep. We all woke up around 7.30am, its actually those honking trucks which made us awake. Asked the house owner if we could get hot water for bath, he laughed at us sarcastically and told that their family members take bath once in a week with cold water and we are excepting hot water from them. With little Aw!! factor we decided to skip bath for the second consecutive day as the immensive Tanglangla is waiting for us few kms away. As usual, Again gone through the pain of freshening up with so called liquid form of ice. By today, it has become a routine job for us and all started packing things on their own without any external body forcing to do so . Ronak with a big smile told that he went to Leh last night, got tanked up and changed the engine oil. I was sleeping like a dead body by the time he came back. Got the saddles up on our clean and shining bikes after all the efforts been put yesterday for that. Left for breakfast and Hari as usual finds some or the other to ask about route conditions at the last minute. Lot of things were missing from our saddles but never bothered as long as our wallets are there. Finished the breakfast and its time for us to hit the hills again. 9.30am We were ready to roll and a funny thing happened between Hari and the house owner, I went to settle the bill and with the remaining change I thought of buying a Lip Balm and got one. Twister was not working on that and asked the owner to exchange it with a new one. He was generous enough, tried two more but with the same result and finally he found a good one. Looking at that Hari also went to buy one, after sometime he came back with little disappointed face, I asked him if he checked it before buying, he told yes and owner got pissed off at replacing and cribbed at him as should he be replacing the entire shop or what. There begins the Race towards world's second mighty pass. NH 21 looked promising for the first 2-3 kms but gave up after that, leaving a challenge to us with loose gravel through out. With a rare existence of tarmac here and there we crossed all those villages which exists in Map. They call it Meru, Gya and Rumse. Nature Signs of nearing Tanglangla by changing the vistas from beautiful to spectacular, Man!! I call this as riding into heaven, Was expecting a lot of snow this time . Slowly we started the incline, Unlike the other passes, Tangalangla has got amazing visibility even from 10-20 kms away from the top. Roads just exist so as the incline. It looked almost flat and takes you the top slowly and steadily. No Power loss neither to the bike nor the rider what so ever. Enough amount of snow this time even on the road but all that was crushed by the trucks. So we were safe. Leaving Memories Behind.. Soon We reached the top and got stunned by the beauty around, is this is what we call as dreams come true?? that too one by one in a span of 11 days. Amazed, amused, confused...what not, had all sort mixed feelings rolling around. It was an exotic mountain pass, hence I call it the "Spectacular Tanglang La". My Helmet fell down from the bike and visor came off, Tried to fix it and then I felt how less was the oxygen there. My fingers lost its senses and I was pushing to the limits of my energy just to fix the visor. Remember one of the school lessons, "Oxygen is very important for Human beings" Ronak Always looking uneasy at the peaks, not the mountain sickness but he is sick of mountains Moved from there and started descending, Thank God!! we didn't come from Manali side, down hill was so steep with bad patches and its time to be extra careful to avoid one more fall. So many shortcuts will tempt you, I took a few of them and ended up with a scary experience where I was sliding down for around 50 meters using both my legs as brakes. No traction what so ever, neither the tires, nor my shoes. Luckily no fall this time. New lesson to the biker fellas planning to get Leh'd. "Try this at your own Risk or do not attempt at all". Soon after the down hill we hit the famous "Moore Plains", our bad luck, all the tarmac was dug up as they were lying a new road and one can take their own road through those vast plains. we had to go off the track fight with the dust and loose sand. Dust was about a feet high, had a very tough time tackling through with out any fall. We were doing an amazing speed of 20 kmph. :dance2: It bought us a feeling that we are riding in a desert in the middle of cold mountains all of a sudden. Such a vast plain at that altitude :surprise: its definitely "A desert in the Sky" Look at the bike condition It took us a real long time to for us to do the bad patches and finally found some fresh tarmac, started revving up the engine but soon the plains ended. A bit of descent from Moore plains took us to Pang, where we planned to stop for lunch and so we did. A long lunch break, met some Jeep guys from Punjab who were a part some rally. Paaji was very experienced in the terrain. They come to Leh many times in a year. How Lucky Our bikes with full of dust and Paaji's PJO(they call it so) behind. Finished lunch and moved on towards our destination tonight, "Sarchu". Started ascending from Pang and found it was Lachung La. After that Nakee la just went like a mushroom. Did those two passes with ease. Ronak was not even in a mood to stop for pics and so do I. Hari the poser as usual Soon we reached Gata Loops, I somehow missed the board at the start but realized that these are So called Loops looking at the beautiful curvy road descending towards Sarchu. Again we were bit lucky here by not coming from Manali seeing all those struggling trucks and bikers climbing up. Road was in a good condition and it was a speedy descent for us without much trouble. Pano by Ronak: . A few kms after Gata loops, we reached our destination, it was still around 3.45pm and had a thought of stretching towards Darcha but didn't want to risk the water crossings at Barlalacha La in the evening time. So stopped there and found a tent for Rs.400 per night. We heard of beds being as hard as rocks but here the beds are practically rocks. A set of rocks and some thick blankets on top of it going to make our night. Met few other Bulleteirs coming from Manali, they were also from Bangalore and shared their experiences at Rothang la and Baralacha La. Weather was getting too cold outside and we had to found the universal medicine to keep ourselves warm . Tent owner asked us to order for dinner and was seeing stars when we told "Egg fried Rice". Taught him on how to prepare it and finally got it done in his own way. 3 Cheers for our successful journey so far and slipped under the thick blankets soon after that. Day 12 - Enter the civilization through Baralacha La- Coming shortly __________________ Jay It’s not what you ride, it’s your attitude that it counts. My travelouges: Journey to Heaven - Leh-Ladakh - 2011** Last edited by Jayakrishna; 01-12-2012 at 08:14 PM.

03-22-2012, 12:27 PM	#65 (permalink)
Jayakrishna Sole rider Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Bengaluru Posts: 108	Day12 - Sarchu to Manali Route: Sarchu-Baralachla-ZingZing bar-Darcha-Keylong-Rothang La-Manali Total Distance: 240+kms Time: 8Hrs Spending a night for the second time at an altitude of 14000 feet and sleeping under a thick blanket with lesser oxygen!!! no that wasn't a pleasant sleep at all. It was around 6am I think, heard the bulletiers from Bangalore leaving the place but we 3 still tried to catch some sleep as if there is nothing for us to do . Woke up around 8am and the struggle this time was not with water but the toilet, one has to bend each and every part of their body to fit into. This was one of the worst experience we ever had in our trip and that leads to our 3rd consecutive day without bath Got freshened up, had breakfast and got the saddles up to rock n roll. Seems to be a sunny day but never mind, moved on from there and crossed J&K border, finished the entry formalities at Himachal Pradesh check post and moved on towards the beautiful Baralachla. Just after Check post, Bharatpur has also got some tent accommodations but the only thing running in our mind was the water crossings at Baralach la. Roads were good enough till the base of Baralach la but after that it was a real test. Amount of snow was increasing either side of the road as we started to climb up. Small water crossings here and there but were easy enough to tackle. My Bike has lost breath and refused to move at one of the water crossing but luckily Paaji was behind us in the Jeep, helped me to move over the gravel and we finally found our way. They too stayed at Sarchu but we never knew. . Words will not be enough if I have to describe the beauty of Baralach la. If there is something called as heaven, it cant get better than this. Paaji had stopped behind to make a snowman but we kept moving. We never knew when we reached the top but soon felt like we are on the decline. The Combination of my two favorite colors . Roads on the second half of the pass were better. Everything seems to be going good, and ride has become smooth all of a sudden but this terrain is not meant for this right. Yes!! Crossing through a water stream which is almost 0 degrees and powerful enough to take us and the bikes away in case of a fall. That was really scary and fun at the same time. Ronak and Hari made it with minimal difficulties but ZMR's fairing made me to use all my strength to hold the bike up straight through out the stream. Did a zig zag ride and finally came out of it. Ronak had some Ice flakes in shoes after coming out Deep upto the knee :surprise: PJO crossing without any fuss After Effects We let the famous Zing Zing bar pass through our RVMs as our destination for lunch was either Darcha or Keylong, after this we finally entered into a green world It was so Refreshing and heavenly to see green mountains covered with snow on top. Going round and round through mountains with few more water crossings we finally reached Darcha and decided to stop for lunch. After a relaxed break, Paaji just reached Darcha when we were about to leave. Thought we wont be able to meet again, thanked them lot and moved on. Keylong was still 30kms away and we passed through the beautiful Jispa on the way. If there is a second time I'm getting Leh'd, Jispa would be my overnight stay (I guess Ronak also told the same) . With few more Water crossings we reached Keylong and finally headed to Tandi. Ronak still had fuel till Manali, Hari was like how would one go ahead without filling here and ZMR's fuel gauge was still showing 3 points. I thought of risking it through Rothang so it will be Pangong to Manali with a Full tank The next big task was Rothang, composition of good and bad roads we crossed Khoksar and started climbing Rothang, kept doing it on and on and on but it never seemed like going to end. To add up the frustration If I drink water at one hair pin bend, it is ready to come out at the other corner as if there was no kidney to process it so with lots of pee breaks we finally reached the top which was completely fogged out and had no visibility whatsoever . We could only see dusky head lights of vehicles coming in the opposite direction. Speeds were restricted to a max of 15-20kmph. It was like we went high into sky right from Khoksar and now on the way down is definitely a test for the rides and riders. Mud upto Knee level, traffic Jam with Huge lines of trucks and tackling between them in that road conditions was a nightmare. Ronak had a fall and became half mud man . It was almost dark by the time we came out of all the Rothang's Mess. Hari always says if we had taken Manali-Leh route, we would have returned from Rothang itself . 3 Days without bath and a pass like this had made us to push hard to Manali as fast as we can for relaxing hot water bath. We were so tired that we stopped and found a hotel even before entering Manali. Ronak wanted a Separate room to clean up all his mess because of the fall. Hot water bath after 3 days, wow!! that's the best feeling we could have at that situation. Ordered food and called Family,friends, almost everyone to share our Joy. These 12 days went like hallucination, feeling like our chests are pumped up with pride. Finally we too join the club "Got Leh'd". Memories till now. __________________ Jay It’s not what you ride, it’s your attitude that it counts. My travelouges: Journey to Heaven - Leh-Ladakh - 2011**

03-24-2012, 10:54 AM	#66 (permalink)
BlackScorpian Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Dombivli,Thane District Posts: 54	Hey Jay..... Great write-up man.... And amazing pics to complement it!!!!! __________________ Ride Safe!!! Regards Sushil

03-29-2012, 01:52 AM	#69 (permalink)
InsaneRider007 Nomadic Biker Join Date: May 2011 Location: Aamchi Mumbai Posts: 216	wasted almost 3 hours in office reading ur log DAMN !!! but poora paisa vasool bhai (though I didn't had to pay any ) Nicely written, superb narration, hats off... words are falling short Congrats on getting Lehd to all of u. Dunno when I'm gonna get Lehd. Had planned to do this year but due to some reasons, I had to postpone next year __________________ Ganpatipule Ride --> http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...tml#post799135 Midnite ride to Tiger pt and Aamby --> http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...by-valley.html Yeva... Konkan Aaploch Asaa --> http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...ploch-asa.html Catch me on FB --> http://www.facebook.com/aambekar Bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory...

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01-12-2012, 08:18 PM	#63 (permalink)
Sunil S Reddy Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Bangalore Posts: 4	Nice Pics Jay... waiting for more! Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul.

03-28-2012, 04:57 PM	#68 (permalink)
Txschadab Keep the paint up, and the rubber down.....!!!!! Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Wilderness Posts: 9	Cant believe i read it all in one go...phew.... its so interesting, feel like iam already doing it, amazing way to sum up 12 days, very expressive......wish me luck we r doing the same route from 28th May 12 till the 13th June from Pune

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