Thank you Manoj...Im trying best to complete the log ASAP.

May be I didn't bug you much but our entire trip was planned based on your sample itineraries. Anyways, log is up till Day-1

Day1 - Delhi to Chandigarh

Route: Delhi (Bijwasan)-Dwarka-Panipat-Karnal-Ambala-Chandigarh
Total Distance: 260kms
Time: 9Hrs**





We were in Delhi around 8.50am after a bumpy bumpy Landing, (May be the pilot was hungry) very excited to see our bikes being safe, even the small walk in Delhi airport seemed too long at that time. In fact the airport was too big. As per the Plan we are supposed to reach Chandigarh tonight as Ronak's friend is making some arrangements for our stay. Time was not a concern as it was just 260kms away with a proper highway.

Ronak and Hari at the Delhi Airport:




As soon as we came out the first welcome was from the hot and humid air, felt like we were put in a Tandoor all of a sudden. It was sweating like hell.Called up GATI office to check if they are open .


We had to go to Bijwasan (Delhi West) to collect our bikes from the GATI office. Got a cab and for our surprise the driver doesn't even know that there is a place called Bijwasan, so we had to scratch our head with the GPS navigation and guide the driver . He almost took an hour to reach there and then a couple of hours more for us to the finish the formalities and get the bikes out of the godown. Petrol was drained from the unicorn while packing hence I and Ronak had to go and fetch the petrol for Hari.

Now its the Damage list:

Ronak's RVM was bent and Hari's helmet holder was broken :surprise:
My Silencer guard had lot of scratches and dents but that didn't worry me.
After all the cleaning and packing, for my surprise I found the first ever scratch on the fairing. My 15 months of scratch less maintenance is gone for a toss. Damn this transport people.



My Dazzling ZMR - All set to go



People around were staring at us like we just came from other planet. Few of them enquired as where does this KA** registration come from? Karnal?? . They were all amused that we are doing Leh on bikes:dunno:. Went through a lot of questions, "Leh jaa rahe ho, bike pe??? kamal hain!! kitna dur padega??. ufff!!!

12:00pm : Finally Its all set to start our dream journey. We were all so tired as we haven't ate anything from the morning and on top of it the heat has drained us to the core, decided to go outskirts to beat the heat and have a proper lunch. Went to a near by petrol pump, tanked up and there we start, set the Trip meter to 0, Ronak was leading and I was sweeping to ensure that Unicorn in between us on the highway.

It was a very tough time with Delhi traffic in the afternoon and all of us were frustrated in that noisy honks with empty stomachs. My head started aching like hell and beside all these, people use to come next to us and ask as where we are going and details about our gear etc. etc. I was loosing my patience in answering them in every other signal. With all this it took a couple hours for us to reach the outskirts and was desperate to eat something. Kept moving on and on and on in search of a nice dhaba and almost rode 50kms. Finally we found one near Sonepat. It was Rasoi Dhaba.

The Rasoi Dhaba - Near Sonepat






Had a heavy and delicious lunch with Roti, Dal, Sabji and spent a longggggg time over there to get rid of the sweat and tiredness. Food was tasty and its a decent place that one could visit again. Headed towards Panipat after a small and refreshing power nap at the dhaba, lot of diversions due to under construction flyovers and we were lagging behind in our average speed.

Around 4.30pm Our first Butt Break: Near Panipat





Ronak and Hari:













Moved on from there and reached Ambala city around 8pm. For my surprise, it was very well lit till 7.30 in the evening which made to cross check my mobile and bike clocks twice if they are running fine. The roads from Ambala to Chandigarh was just above Awesome, I was able to cruise at 80's easily with my puny ZMR lights. Reached Chandigarh outskirts around 9pm and Ronak had called Ankur to help us in guiding the route to hotel. Me and Hari together were tailing Ronak like puppies. I have always heard about Chandigarh being the well planned city in India and today I realized that it sure deserves the name "Chandigarh - The city Beautiful". Sector after sector with very minimal traffic we reached our hotel. I felt something odd and found that our hero Hari was lost to beauty of the City and went two sectors ahead without noticing us taking a diversion. Had called him to guide back and trust me guiding in chandigarh easier than GPS, Its either Left, Right or straight . Went into the hotel and room was bit conjusting but OK for a charge of Rs1000 in city like that. Dumped our luggage and refreshed, my head was still aching like anything, so took a tab and went out for dinner. Dinner wasn't good at all but filled our stomachs. Had a delicious Kulfi, came back to room and crashed on the bed hoping all the best for Ride tomorrow.

Within these 260kms we have covered 4 states. Delhi, Haryana, Punjab and Chandigarh. cool uh?

Day-2 the Rain play.... Day-2: Chandigarh - Amritsar

What service from GATI did you use? How many days did it take from them to ship the bikes to Delhi?

GATI Logistics...it takes 4 days for the transit but you have to send the bike 7 days prior the mentioned date of delivery. This is to ensure the delivery on time in case of any delay in between.

They charge as per your bike weight..mine costed around Rs.3800 (one side)

Wonderful pictures Jay. Amazing teaser pictures. Its unfortunate that the ZMR got a few scratches. Waiting a huge post of pictures from you. Already bookmarked this thread!!!

Thanks Suru...

Jay, I have a request... As you have provided your route for Day-1 i.e. Delhi to Chandigadh, please please please provide the same for each day of the journey. B'coz, everyone posts it for day-1,2 (naya log, naya josh & all...) but forgets it later...

Sure...no probs...

Day2 - Chandigarh to Amritsar- The Rain Play

Route: Chandigarh-Rupnagar-Phagwara-Jalandhar-Amritsar
Total Distance: 240kms
Time: 7Hrs**



After a very exhausted first day ride and irritating headache I slept like a pig and we woke-up around 7am. We were again not worried about the distance as it was just 240 kms and set a target to reach by 5pm for the Wagah border ceremony. Ronak has called Ankur and told that he will come and join us for the breakfast.

Ronak, who had gone to clean and lubricate his bike, came back with disappointing words that it is "Raining" and for our dismay it started pouring like as it is never going to end. All of us got ready with the same hope that it would come down by the time we leave.

8.30am We were all set to check out but the rain god didn't give a damn to our prayers, Ronak had asked Ankur to bring his car so that we can go out for breakfast. Being Sunday and rain it has been a holiday for the traffic and soon Ankur drove us to some small hotel(do not remember the exact sector). This was the best as Parathas were scrummy and heavy with packets of butter and curd. I and Ankur had two each and 1 was enough for the guys with small tummy (Ronak and Hari) . It took a lot of time for us to finish that heavy breakfast and it was still drizzling around 10:00am. We left from the hotel and me being a Lazy A** shopped for my rain gear then and there which costed me 350 bucks, that's cheaper than Bangalore.

10:30am We reached hotel and started packing our luggage along with rain covers. Did a bit of trial and error to tie everything properly and finally achieved some part of it. Changed the helmet visors, tucked into the rain pants and it was the time to test our DSG nero being water proof. We all were looking like clowns with our bikes. . While packing a guy had saw the Xbhp sticker on our bikes and asked if we know Sunny!! he is his friend and stays next to his home. I told "we know him but he doesn't know us"
11:30am We were all geared up for our first ride in the rain. Had a quick session of photos before leaving




Ankur: we owe a lot for that delicious breakfast which kept us running for the whole day in rain.



Moved on from there and it was still raining, We again followed the same pattern of riding as Ronak to lead and me to sweep. Pace was really low due to rain and wet roads till we come out of the city. Initial route was to go by Ludhiana and Phagwara. After riding 50kms there was a diversion to Ludhiana at which I told we are suppose to go left but Ronak had gone and asked some truck guy for Amritsar who told to go straight instead of Ludhiana and he just raced on, so as Hari. I tailed them with half minded that we are not on the right path and also the rain had taken out the option of clarifying with the mobile GPS. Roads opened up after few kms and it was drizzling mildly, that weather just gave us a big boost and we started to race on and cover as much as distance to compensate the slow riding in rains.

1.30pm Kept on Racing and soon we crossed Rupnagar, roads were looking pitch black and all that I was worried is that there was no single sign board which point towards Amritsar. After few kms we grouped together and decided for a break. Had some juice and I just could not hold my sense of being foolish and going on the Manali road. Took out my mobile and checked GPS for the directions which shows that we should taken a diversion from Rupnagar on the Phagwara-Mohali Express highway. Reconfirmed with the hotel guy and we were 18kms away from that diversion.

Photos at the break:





Headed back towards Rupnagar and found that we missed the diversion because of a flyover on it. Took the Phagwara-Mohali highway and cruised at 100's again. The views started becoming pleasant and greener with paddy fields all along the highway. Crossed Banga, Phagwara with same pace and reached Jalandhar around 4 in the evening. We missed the road again here due to some diversion in and went inside army quarters . A fully packed highway has just turned into deadly no man area it didn't take much time for us to realize that we are in wrong place and with all our luggage, gear we look like terrorists intruded into that Army quarters. Somehow got out quickly and connected to highway again. Could not cruise at high speeds after Jalandhar due to traffic and oncoming vehicles. Amritsar was 80kms away and after sometime we realized that Wagha border is impossible at this kind of roads. Our patriotism just got diluted with the rain water and we took a break to discuss on how could a single paratha (not in my case) kept us running for the entire day!!! there is something special and difference in the food. Spent sometime there and moved on to Amritsar like slow steady wins the race

Flyover at Amritsar:



Reached Amritsar around 7pm and headed towards Golden temple and to find some hotel near by. Hell again, I was lost behind here in the traffic as Ronak and Hari went a head without noticing me. I had gone and stopped the bike right infront of golden temple and called Ronak as they must come here in any case heard that they have found a hotel near by and asked me to wait there for sometime. Later Ronak came to guide me. Hotel was located in a crowded street right infront of the temple and there was no proper parking place, we had to park our bikes on the road . Dumped our drenched jackets, shoes and the DSG Carbon gloves were a big flop. It has become pale and lost the initial color glow. There was no hot water in the hotel and we had to take bath in that cold water being already chilled with rain. Somehow got out and headed to Golden temple for the real photo shoot with Ronak's Tripod.

DSLR shots:





Normal one:



Ronak's:







After a prolonged discussion on the camera settings and shots we left the temple for dinner and here is the most delicious food ever we had in our entire trip, Rotis, parathas, Daal makhani, Rajma masala etc.. it was finger licking tasty. Came out with a satisfaction of stomachs filled with real tasty food. Went out for a smoke walk (not me), had a Yummy Kulfi again and came back to hotel around 11:30pm. Tiring Rainy day comes to an end with delicious and heavy dinner.

Day-3: Amritsar to Ramban (J&K)

Jai, thanks a lot for bringing this up. Some great photos you've captured. Love the output your camera gave for the Golden Temple.

Ive been fairly busy with personal commitments from the time we returned from the Trip. Since Jai has started off with the Log, I would only add additional information to it rather than starting off with a new one. Would love to thank everyone who helped us throughout the planning and execution of this massive ride.

Prologue : The planning for this trip was purely done online on email as each of us were living in different parts of the city had different work schedules, meeting up offline was impossible. At the end of it, we had a email thread which had a length of 500 emails. It took us around 3 months to plan it out starting March '11.

I had started dreaming about Leh from the time I started browsing the very well know 'The Tourer' section on xbhp.com. Back in 2006 when bought my first bike Yamaha Fazer when I was in college, I never intended to do any kind of touring, was more of a commuter. I did have a look at xbhp.com back then only for doing mods on my bike. Doing long tours or even inter-city tours seemed like a dream considering the bank balance all of us have in college. I did end up doing a couple of rides between Bhopal to Indore, a total distance of 200 kms with friends once in a while. Even back then I was a safe rider and used to wear the basic minimum gear (Helmet, Jacket, Gloves and Shoes). College finished, I got my first job, and I realised that I could do some long tours now as weekends in Bangalore seemed really boring (im not much into partying and prefer to be out of home during weekends). Now, the Fazer had clocked 46000 kms and I dint trust it anymore as it used to give up on me even while commuting within Bangalore City. I ended up buying, the perfect touring machine, the P220 in September 2010. From here on, ive been clocking atleast 1500 - 2000 kms every month on Highways. I had completed the Run-In on the highway from Bekal to Bangalore.

By March '11 I felt I needed a break from work and since the touring bug had hit me, I wanted to do a really long tour on a bike and came the first hiccup in my plan. Cant call it as a hiccup, but more of an option that I had for my much needed vacation. My parents were planning for a trip to Europe in June and wanted to me and my sister to join them. Even when Snehasish, Jai, Hari and I met for the time at Oasis Mall, I was unsure if ill be able to continue planning this trip as the Europe trip with my Family definitely had that emotional importance as my parents, my sister and I all live in three different parts of the world and we end up being together only once in year that too only for a couple of days.

My mid May, my sister thought it wasn't gonna be possible for her to arrange the Schenegan Visa and she dropped out of the Trip, and that followed by me. Now I had already applied for leaves at work and could continue with planning for Leh. The planning never seemed really tough for me, as I already had most of the gear needed and I only had to buy some camera gear and woolens and I was ready for the Trip. My bike was in good shape, thanks to the excellent service provided by Auto Service. I had no problems of going ahead with this trip and then came the biggest trauma, I was suffering from a chronic cold from the beginning of May and no matter how many meds I took, it just dint get cured. I ended up visiting an ENT specialist in the last week of May and I was diagnosed with a bent septum and a sinus infection. The only solution was surgery, even though the surgery (Deviated Nasal Septum) is complications free and hardly involves any kind pain, I had a sinking feeling, that if things go wrong my plans for Ladakh are surely gonna get jeopardized. I went ahead with with the Surgery on the 1st of June, and yes as expected, post surgical complications did come up, I had bleeding nose due to the stitches for nearly a week, even though I was out of the hospitals, doing regular activities just seemed difficult as my nose just wouldn't stop bleeding, I decided to hit the pause button on my Ladakh plans once again.

June 10th 2011 : My nose stopped bleeding, I visited my ENT Specialist at Manipal Hospital and yes he did give a go ahead for Leh. I still did have that sinking feeling, what if I was completely fit, and I would end getting an AMS attack UP there. Some logical thinking and a discussion with Praful gave me that confidence that my surgery was actually gonna help when im up there as I would be able to breathe much easily now.

June 18th : I would say, the trip started right from here, and there was no turning around from here, as this was the day our bikes were sent from Bangalore. The shipping part was very simple, We hardly had any problems, it was completely hassle free. Gati is a little pricy, but does provide excellent service. The guy who packed our bikes at BLR did a marvelous job. It was completely worth paying Rs. 700 for the packing.

To be continued ..

Panoramas from the Trip :

The Valley of Sonamarg





The Pangong Lake




The Gata Loops

nice pics. waiting for the rest of the log

Day3 - Amritsar to Ramban (J&K)

Route: Amritsar-Pathankot-Samba-Udhampur-Patnitop-Ramban
Total Distance: 350kms
Time: 12 Hrs**

Route Map:



A heavy dinner, roaming till late night around Golden temple and tired of riding in rain, we all slept snoring like there is no tomorrow. Despite a mammoth riding task ahead, we woke up around 7.30am, no one were in a mood to go to the bathroom and get ready:lol2: one blaming the other one to go first. Ronak went ahead by looking at us rolling on the bed lazy like buffaloes, later we both finally pushed our own a**es forcibly to keep up with our schedule. :ts:

Got ready around 8.30am and thought paying a visit to Jallianwala Bagh at least to compensate our miss on wagah border, after all we didn't come this long just to ride. Decided to leave the luggage at hotel, walk to Jallianwala bagh, have breakfast there and then come back to hotel. Left only with our cameras and as soon as we came out of the hotel, its our part to have to the famous Amritsar Jalebi, hmmmm yummy and scrummy a definitely must have for everyone visiting Amritsar. Kept eating along the road and moved on to Jallianwala Bagh.















Ronaks:





After the photo session, we thought of trying some different hotel for breakfast and went in search of it but our bad luck, couldn't find any near by the sun was very angry on that day and scorching hot. We were made to have a sugarcane juice just for a walk of 200 meters and then lichees after another 50 meters could not hold our hungry any more and went into the same hotel of last night's which was the only option at that time. Ronak had gone in to order, I and Hari went to buy energy bars. Came back to hotel, had some Dosa's, Parathas bought some water and left hotel. Ronak and Hari headed to hotel while I went into the bazar to buy bananas for us and some medicines, cosmetics for myself. Reached hotel and started packing things.

The hotel boy (sorry buddy, forgot your name ) who was enthusiastic about us and our journey had almost glued to us to get a photo of him. Last night he even came to Golden temple for the photo but couldn't get one because of his friends. He was really helpful to us from taking all saddle bags to our room in first floor and giving advise on not to buy food from their hotel :nono: and all sort of stuff. He again helped us in bringing our saddles down and in packing. We tried to transfer his photos to the PC at hotel but unfortunately it was not detecting the camera.

Thanks a lot boy, may god bless you for a bright future.



With his friend:


With the receptionist:


12:00pm After bidding adieu to that little boy we kicked off our next days journey to hit the hills, that hotel receptionist has guided us with the route to Batala, followed his instructions and headed out of the city, reached a petrol bunk to tank up and the guy at petrol bunk was insisting us to fill in speed instead of normal petrol, had a little argument with him to get normal petrol. Again we were the special attraction here, a little kid who was along with his mom at the petrol pump came to us and asked "Aap racers ho??" I felt we broke his heart by telling the truth that we are NOT, he just went back with a disappointed face . Tanked up and headed towards Batala bye-pass road. Could not believe that we are just riding a highway which is sliding Pakistan border a few kms away.

Punjab has got really good views apart from the scorching sun. Paddy & sugarcane fields alongside the road was making our ride really enjoyable. We could hardly maintain any pace with the on-coming traffic and a small road. Crossed Batala and Stopped before Gurdaspur for a Butt break and checked pressure in our bike tyres. Reached Gurdaspur around 1.30pm and stopped at a hero honda showroom on the highway to check my Indicator switch as it was stuck inside while transporting (adding one more the damage list). The security guard told that Mechanic at the showroom is on a lunch break and will be coming only after half an hour, we didn't want to wait and asked him if we get any showrooms at Pathankot, he said yes and we left the place with a hope that I could get it fixed at least at pathankot. This small repair never happened for me from Delhi to Amritsar due to some or the other reason and now it has become really hard to ride without indicator in those roads with no divider.

2.30pm We reached Pathankot but couldn't go inside as the bypass road lead us through the outskirts. Kept moving as the roads has turned smoother and bigger. Soon those roads lead us to the doors of Heaven on earth Jammu & Kashmir, Lakhenpur Check post.



Look at the Tired faces







We were really exhausted by the heat and DSG was absorbing each and every sweat drop coming out of our body. Had Bananas and some energy bars to keep up for the next few kms of ride. Initial plan was to go Jammu then Udhampur and reach Anantnag for over night Stay. (at this point of time, we were not aware of the Samba-Udhampur Road).

As you could see in the above photos, there was a hell lot of traffic at the check post due to Amarnath Yatra. It took a almost 30 minutes time for us to zip through the traffic and finally we are on free highway. Thanks to the Army guys in helping to clear the traffic. After that it was a newly laid road, really big and smooth enough rip our bikes to the maximum, speeding constantly at 100-110 kmph with our saddles!!!. We reached Samba soon and headed towards Jammu, after around 10kms I found a Hero Honda showroom on the other side of the road and did not want to take a chance this time. Took a U turn and Luckily I was leading at this point of time so Ronak and Hari followed me. For my surprise, this lonely place in the hills had all the bike company showrooms in the same lane. Went inside the showroom and asked if I could get that switch replaced. The ZMR fate on short of spares continues here as well, instead I asked If i could get Karizma-R switch set but it costs Rs600. I asked the mechanic to check first if it can be fixed or not. He did some oiling and fighting with the switch, finally it gave up to him and loosened a bit. Hurray!!!

In the middle of no where, I get a free service. Thank you Hero Honda and the show room guys.





Came out, sat in a bus stop for butt break, started the mobile GPS and checked directions to Udhampur, it was showing backwards and a diversion from Samba. Inquired with the localites and found that we are 10kms head of that diversion and no need to go to Jammu for Udhampur, they guided us to reach Samba outskirts and watch out for the diversion out there and also the road is quite good. We were happy that we found some shortcut and left the place with urge as it was already 4pm. Soon reached the diversion and inquired with some localites again to reconfirm that we are on the right path.

The Samba-Udhampur road was good enough and we can save around 50kms instead going through Jammu. The real ride started for us when we reached a hill with landslides, weather started getting cool and it bought a lot of relief to us from all the heat we went through.

Butt breaks enroute Udhampur:



The Views:











6.30pm We planned to have a early dinner at Udhampur and head to some place till where we can push in night. Crossed Udhampur and stopped at a Dhaba, the food was really bad, Me and Hari had adjusted with Pulkas and Ronak didn't eat anything after tasting Rajma rice a bit. Spent some time there and inquired with the people around for the next best place to stay. They informed us that Patnitop is 40kms ahead and being tourist season we will not able to find any hotel less than Rs 2000 - 3000 per night and advised to reach Batote which is 20kms after Patnitop and will be the next best place to stay at a lower rate.

Changed the Visors as it was dusky when we left the hotel and the real curvy hill ride started right out there, ZMR was pulling the incline with ease and it gives a great comfortable feeling to hit the corners even when saddles are on. We were zipping through passing the heavy trucks and tourist vehicles. Some of the bikers coming from the other side were waving at us wishing all the best which brings a smile on our face. "Its a bike thing, only we can understand". Reached Patnitop after an hour of ride and think what, we were practically in the clouds, thick clouds passing through us leaving with no view ahead. Our own bike lights will reflect to us and we have to get into low beam. It was really dangerous to pass that few kilometers and we even a saw car accident at top which made us more conscious on the road. Kept moving on very slowly and careful with the on coming traffic.

Butt Break in Clouds





This is how the road was with oncoming vechicles and funky truck horns:



10:00pmAfter a very hard and tough ride, we reached Batote and started inquiring for hotels, for our dismay all the hotels were fully booked here as well with Amarnath Yatris. Ronak was pissed off and was feeling little drowsy and not well after concentrating too much on the road in last few kms. I went inside the J&K tourist bungalow which was already fully booked but the person incharge was feeling bad for us and called his manager to inquire for a room at J&K tourist bungalow in Ramban which is 25kms ahead . He took a lot of time talk to his manager if he can get a confirmed room for us in Ramban so that he can the take payment here itself. All was confirmed and he prepared the bill as well and gave to me. I asked him for the phone number of person incharge in Ramban and that guy was not picking the call when we called. I suspected and asked him to get somebody who can attend us there on our arrival. He took the bill back and teared it off saying that he don't want to get into any risk by just believing his manager's word. I asked him to take the money and give a new bill and we will find that guy ourselves but he didn't agree at all. Had blasted at him for wasting almost half an hour of our time and left the place by kicking one of the flower pot at the gate.

Came out angrily and Ronak was not keeping well and couldn't push anymore in the dark. I advised about the place Ramban and we must have to ride till there to find a hotel. I started leading and kept Ronak in between. ZMR lights are not that bad as everyone says, I was able to pick those dangerous corners very easily. Ronak had a bit of hard time with all my close calls on brakes but that was the best I could do with my ZMR lights.

11:30pm We reached the so called place Ramban and found the J&K tourist bungalow, It was pitch dark and no one was around there to attend, Ronak and Hari moved ahead but I went up to check if someone is there. It was scary and for my surprise it seems to be locked out for a long time. Felt lucky for all the shit happened at Batote and headed to join Ronak and Hari to inquire about hotels. The Army guys were really kind in guiding us and helping by asking for rooms in one of the hotel but our bad luck even that was fully booked. They gave us a option as Hotel Shaan palace and if we could not find any room there then the camp site is the last luck and after that we have to go till Banihal which is again 40kms from there. With our fingers crossed we went to that shaan palace and asked for a room at any cost. That hotel guy was drunk and told us that he have one room which is of his own and will give it to us for Rs300 and we have to adjust with a common bath room. We agreed for whatever conditions and it has got some good parking place but the room was utter dirty and stinky with cockroaches everywhere, even on the bed. As there is no other option and it was already around 12am, we have to adjust in whatever we get. The room didn't even had lock from inside and hari had to do some engineering work with one of the bungee cords to close the door. Asked for an extra mattress, dumped our luggage in the room, had put the extra mattress on top of the same bed and crashed without even changing the clothes. Didn't even know when fell asleep. God knows why they named the hotel as a palace!!!.

This was our night at Hell in the Journey to Heaven on earth!!!

Day-4: Ramban to Srinagar

Day4 - Ramban to Srinagar

Route: Ramban-Banihal-Jawahar Tunnel-Srinagar
Total Distance: 150+kms
Time: 5Hrs**



We never knew when we slept but this is the only day that we all were desperate to wake up early and leave that crappy place as soon as possible. It was around 6.30am and all of us woke at the same time wondering how did we manage to get sleep last night. Realized that its not because the bed was so soft but we all were so damn tired of yesterday's ride. Came out of the room and the view around was mind blowing, huge hills all covered with green and a river flowing right in front of the hotel, wow!! this is why they call it as heaven but when we turn around to the hotel all we felt is "lets get out of this hell". Asked the reception guy for a bathroom and he told use one of the vacated rooms. No plans of taking bath whatsoever. So "our first day without bath starts right here" just brushed, freshened up and there was no hotel around to have breakfast.

9.30 am Moved ahead after deciding to have breakfast on the way. Its all about green green and green everywhere. I must say that we were looking at the road with our subconscious mind as the views were not letting us to take our eyes out. Roads were too curvaceous and dangerous with oncoming vehicles. Found some spectacular place for breakfast right in between the mountains. Ordered Maggi, bread omlet and we enjoyed each every chomp of it sitting right in the middle of a heaven kind of place.

At the Breakfast point:









Copy Cat



Spent a lot of time there and Jawahar tunnel was just few kms ahead. I can't emphasize more about the ride from here to Jawahar Tunnel as it was same as above. Reached the Tunnel and first thing that hit my mind was all those discussions in various forums about the exact length of this tunnel. Here is my experience, It was exactly 2.5kms on way to srinagar (no idea about the other side tube) and ride was just amazing and thrilling, we all just ride through so easily but it would have taken a lots and lots of effort and amazing engineering skills to build such a tunnel, Hats off to them. You feel the vehicle horns like playing PS3 with home theater effect. It was dug through Pir Panjal range if i'm not mistaken . Right after the Tunnel I and Ronak just started riding like motogp racers one behind the other zipping through those corners. It was an awesome feeling to see all those head turns at our bikes. K & N is an attention grabber for sure.

Few kms after the tunnel is the "Titanic view point" the first view of Kashmir valley and our first ever glimpse of a snow covered mountain at a very far distance.







12.15pm After a few photos, moved on from there enjoying the view around all the way, didn't want to rush as we had all the time in world to reach Srinagar. We thoroughly enjoyed the ride from there to srinagar and reached the city outskirts around 2.30pm. A bit of tension in my head as I always assumed this place as a city of terror from my childhood but That couldn't stop us from moving on and slowly we headed towards Dal lake. Stopped right infront of the lake and Inquired about mechanic shop as Ronak had some Wobbling issue from his rear tyre. Some ZMA guy told that he is also going to the mechanic and took us through the busy streets of the city and finally to Rafiq Automobiles (somewhere in Khayam Road).

Ronak's:



Ronak got his rear wheel wobbling fixed and lubrication to the chain, Hari got a new RVM. finally all the way from Bangalore to Srinagar for an RVM . I got my Rear brake fluid topped up and chain lubed. All this costed Rs270 including the RVM and the Brake Fluid. Asked the Mechanic guy for hotel room and every around there started giving advises, they were shouting at each other to prove that their suggestion is THE best and finally one guy took us out from there to Hotel Dream Palace, near by that mechanic shop. It was a decent hotel but the receptionist always sleeps at day to be awake at nights. That guy took his own time to find the receptionist and finally we fixed a room for Rs500 per night after all negotiations. It has got a very small place for parking and only our 3 bikes could hardly fit in there. The receptionist/room boy helped us to take our Saddles inside our room in second floor. Finally dumped our luggages, decided to take bath and head to the famous "Mughal Durbar" for dinner and then to Dal lake. I had faced weird issue out here, My shaver with a new set of batteries just stopped working after making me look like a joker with patchy beard. It was Embarrassing and I was desperate to get rid of it. Headed out of the hotel just with our cameras and found a saloon right infront of the hotel. Ronak and Hari had gone to explore some local food in the meantime.

7:00pm Everything is done and we headed to the famous "Mughal Durbar" by a local auto in which we 3 could hardly fit into. Menu was tempting with lot of food items but after checking with the hotel guy we almost ordered all kind of Kashmiri special food, never thought whether we could eat or not











That's me





Food was really heavy and delicious, none of us could empty our plates. I Don't remember the bill amount but we paid it and then we headed to the so Called "Dal Lake". (again by a Auto). Dal Lake was totally different from what we saw in the afternoon. It was fully lit with all the decorated houseboats and resembles some exhibition. Shikara was very well organised here and the rates were fixed by government. It sounds good as the boat guys could not loot the tourists. Booked a shikara for 1/2 hour.

Boat houses Lit like star hotels.



The Hero (Advantage of not being a shutterbug)







Lake was exotic with all those houseboats decorated with lights and what a relief from our tired riding. Bought a Beer to chill out from one of the floating shops and extended to shikara to 1 hour . I do not have any words to explain the feeling of having a chilled beer in hand and floating on Dal Lake.

After more than an hour we came out from the shikara and headed to hotel. The talk before the sleep was all about conquering the mighty zoji la tomorrow and we planned to leave early at least on that day being scared by the traffic due to Amarnath yatra. Cheered ourselves for the next day ride and crashed on the bed around 11pm

Day-5: Srinagar to Drass

@Jayakrishna- Amazing pics and log bro.... I just started reading your log a few hours ago...But now i cant stop reading ahead. Now i understand the desperation of every fellow rider for the detailed travelog and pics. Waiting for more details about the journey to heaven. (secondly congrats for getting leh'd )