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#31 (permalink) | |
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Solo Rider
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ramprastha, Ghaziabad
Posts: 108
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Day 8 (Leh to Pangong Lake and back)
The first thing I did the last day after reaching Leh was to get the handbrake of my bike repaired. Thereafter I got the tank of bike filled and for the first time I also used the 2 litre plastic can (as I was not returning to Leh and now I would be getting petrol only at Tandi ). I started for Pangong Lake at 6.30 a.m. with all the luggage on the bike. After driving for around two hours, it was getting a bit cold. Yesterday while on my way to Khardungla I had observed that at some places despite the leveled surface my bike was showing signs of AMS as while driving in 4th gear it was not going past 40 km/ph even with 6000 RPM. Today also my bike was showing signs of AMS and I had to switch to lower gears few hundred metres off and on, but not a big problem. Whereas there was no sign of AMS on my body so far in the whole trip including at Khardungla. I reached Changla at around 9.00 a.m. and was offered black tea as a complimentary by the armymen. Changla was covered with snow all over. I was told that on the day before, a few bikers had to return to Leh from the base due to heavy snow enroute Changla. (Though I admit that drive to Changla is more arduous that to Khardungla may be it is farther than Khardungla and one has to drive for longer period to reach here). I purchased one T shirt displaying "Khardungla - The highest motorable Road in the World" on the front and "I WAS THERE" on the back – which I had missed at Khardungla - definitely a good memento - from the souvenir shop (cost Rs. 160/- only). Thereafter I reached Pangong lake, although I had to drive attentively as there are sudden dips in the road frequently as you reach close to Pangong lake. I was greeted by the passengers from Gujarat of the Taxi who had met me enroute. They were appreciative of my effort, although I was feeling just normal, no excitement whatsoever. I must admit that solo ride has its disadvantage as well because you might miss important landmarks not being known to you since there is nobody to guide you; besides you do not enjoy your achievement to the full as there is no one to share your feelings at the end of the day. (Although it has its merits as you can start the day as per your convenience and cover your target within the set time limit besides you can stop wherever you like). I had not seen anything so beautifulas compared to Pangong Lake so far. Although I wanted to spend as much time as possible at Pangong Lake but since there were not many tourists and those who were there were preparing to return, I could not stay for long. After spending a few hours, I was again on my bike for my return journey. As during all these days I had not faced any challenge and achieved my targets without much hardships, my interest in driving to Tso Moriri was depleting and I decided to return to Delhi (although I had got the permit for Tso Moriri Lake). However, another factor that might have lead to this decision was that I was alone and had there been a companion, I might have covered Tso Moriri also. The loneliness can play a major role during the trip to Ladakh, if you do not overcome it, you will not enjoy the trip. I reached Upshi by late evening and stayed at a Gurudwara in a military cantonment. The Sevadar at the Gurudwara was extremely helpful and looked after all my needs. The priest at the Temple adjoining the Gurudwara also offered all help. The apples in the Garden of the Guest House ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#32 (permalink) | |
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Solo Rider
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ramprastha, Ghaziabad
Posts: 108
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Day 9 : 19.09.2011 (Upshi to Saarchu)
I started from Upshi Gurudwara early morning. The roads ahead were a mixture, some times good and some times bad. I had another small tragedy on the way to Tanglangla. While taking a photo while sitting on the bike, by foot slipped on hard ice surface and the clutch lever broke loose from the handle. Luckily, the lever with the wire was still intact and I had to hold it tightly continuously with my fingers while putting the nut/bolt in the broken Yoke somehow. Still my bike was O.K. and I continued my journey with the damaged clutch yoke. At this time of the year there were very very few water streams to be crossed but near the various passes it was quite cold almost around freezing point. In the evening I reached Saarchu and stayed in the Tent (Rent 100 - which I could have bargained but did not). ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() More photographs to follow soon.
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#34 (permalink) | |
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The Iron Horse-rider
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New Delhi
Posts: 69
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commendable job sir!! truly inspiring!!
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Wandering re-establishes the original harmony which once existed between man and the universe... |
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#36 (permalink) | |
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Solo Rider
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ramprastha, Ghaziabad
Posts: 108
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Day 10 : 20.9.2011
Saarchu to Manali & Day 11 (21.09.2011) Manali to Ramprastha (Ghaziabad) I started early morning. (Here, for the first time due to around sub-zero temperature at night my bike did not start quickly. But after some kicks, it started and there was no problem further). I must say that Moray Plains is the toughest part of the whole trip as still there is no road either for around 30 kms and this place must be like hell in monsoon season just like Rainy Nalla at Rohtang Pass. On the way at one Dhaba I met two young men from Karnataka who were on their way to Leh. They asked how far is Saarchu and which is the next suitable place after Saarchu where they could have stay facilities for the night. I was surprised at their ill preparedness for this trip. I gave them all the relevant documents including the Map I had prepared with detailed description as also the Plastic Can I had with me. I feel sorry for travellers like them who start such trek without any proper homework. This is one of the reasons why many trekkers abort their journey inbetween. Since I had plenty of time, I was driving slowly without any haste and reached Koksar by 2.00 p.m. Since it was Tuesday, I had to wait along with others at Koksar as repair/maintenance work was going on on Rohtang Pass. Here I met two young men who were returning from Leh in Bajaj Tempo Traveller. They thought (must be due to my age as also my small bike) that I might have gone upto Leh only. When I said that I went to Hunder and Pangong Tso, they were a bit surprised and told that they too had hired Enfield from Delhi but could not go to Khardungla as the shocker of their bike had broken and they had to pack the bike back to Delhi. At around 3.45 p.m. we were allowed to move towards Rohtang. I was advised by the two youngmen mentioned earlier to move ahead as bikers might be allowed earlier but I started moving after almost all the vehicle had left as the vehicle ahead had levelled the loose mud/earth that had been dumped on the way also on the Rainy Nallah. Reaching Rohtang was not much of a problem so also crossing the dreaded Rainy Nallah. I reached Manali by late evening because the road condition after Marhi was very bad and I was forced to drive very slowly as also due to the broken clutch lever. I booked a dormatory at Himachal Tourism Lodge across the bridge for Rs. 135 and NEXT MORNING AT AROUND 7.00 O'Clock I moved further for my home and reached my house at 9.15 p.m. (in 14 hours). CONCLUSION OF THE TRIP: It is advisable to have a 150-160 cc bike. Most of the failures to my opinion are cases where they have rented bikes (as on two other occasion during this trip I met people who could not complete the trip due to rented bike failures - mostly Enfield) besides I also saw heated arguments at adjoining shop on two occasion at Leh near my hotel or due to lack of physical fitness as they fall sick and have to abort their trip inbetween. The NRI biker from Britain I met at the Petrol Pump at Leh on my arrival had also problem with his enfield which he had rented from Manali and had got it repaired at Leh. So there might be many many such instances one can refer to. I think August last week to September end is the best time when one can complete his journey to Ladakh comfortably. Although the more adventurous one start in the monsoon season and many times have to abort the trip inbetween either on way to Rohtang or before even reaching Tanglangla. The route from Srinagar to Leh is much better and one can return via Manali as then the success rate would be much higher. A completed Trip is much better than an aborted one whatever route you take. Here are the rest of the photographs of this trip : ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#37 (permalink) | |
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Solo Rider
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ramprastha, Ghaziabad
Posts: 108
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The items which helped in making this trip successful(I have read that many time the bikers waste time in purchase of these basic necessities and as a result some times they do not complete their trek as planned):
The blue Almunium Hook and the almunium bottle was quite handy during this trip as the bottle was always hooked to my belt. (Cost Rs. 40 + 100). ![]() This Rucksack was very useful as it had lot of pockets and everything was easy available without waste of time and it was lot easier to be fixed on the bike, besides it had lot of storage space. (Cost Rs. 800) ![]() This monkey cap for Cold climate (Cost Rs. 70) ![]() The knee and elbow guards gave psychological advantage in driving (Minimum Cost Rs. 600) ![]() Although I had worn woolen knitted gloves under these gloves but still my fingers were getting numb quite a lot of times. A very high quality driving gloves are required for this trip. ![]() This jacket and trouser set is especially prepared for mountaineers and is rainproof also. Although I had another woolen jacket which I wore all the time, this jacket proved its worth at Khardungla when one of the Scorpio riders (from Karnataka) who had befriended me on the way was feeling uncomfortable due to minus 5 degree temperature and I gave him this jacket and he felt it quite confortable. He wore it for another hour on the way to Hunder. (cost Rs. 1200 + Rs. 600 for trousers from Stikage, Kamla Market). ![]() I also wore Lumbar Belt as I was suffering from lower back pain before departure. (Sorry at present no photo attached) This sleeping bag proved its worth when I had to stay at a Gurudwara on the way back from Kaaru to Upshi at Night. (Rs. 700/- Azad Market, Old Delhi) ![]() This camera case which was attached to the belt proved very useful as I could take the shots and then put the camera back in the case without getting off from the bike. ![]() This cord for packing the luggage and I had two, one for the bag tied on the back seat and one for the backpack tied on the fuel tank. (Cost Rs. 20/- each) ![]() Polythene sheet for rainy weather. You don't have to waste time if you have covered the baggage with polythene sheets before departure in the morning. You save crucial time and time is not in abundance when you are in ladakh region.(Rs. 20/- ) ![]() A torch as you are left with frequent power cut at many places. ![]() It is advisable to have this hooks attached to your motorcycle keys as then you have very rare chance of losing your keys while driving if you attach this hook to the cables while driving. Otherwise also you can attach the hook to your belt when you are not driving and the keys are always handy. ![]() Besides I had got the iron hook fitted to the motorcycle to carry the plastic Can (which is a must for Ladakh Trip) for bikers with 150 cc and above capacity. The bike accessories : extra tube (front wheel) (this can also be used in the rear wheel in case of emergency), clutch lever accessory (complete) along with clutch wire, spare spark plug, chain lock, 1 litre engine oil, 100 ml engine oil (for top up enroute), front shocker rubber seal, headlight bulb, bike foot pump (Heavy duty) and necessary tools. Above all, the visor of the Helmet should be absolutely new. Another thing which I hope is a must is a road map. (I had already posted a copy of it prepared by me after lot of research).http://www.bcmtouring.com/forum/india-maps-gps-trails-f53/leh-route-map-distance-altitude-t36795/ Keep a regular track of weather forecast as well as the following link at least from 15days before departure date. It will help you a lot. : http://www.imd.gov.in/section/satmet/img/india.jpg
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