World of Sprockets!

[arjun934]

hey guys i am new to sprocketing.
are there any aftermarket sprockets for Thinderbird and Bullet Std.with more teeth.
are they good enough?

how do i increase the low end torque of my bike.
i love to ride in the hills.

how do i go about it.
thanks
aj

[kaynmantis]

Anyone takes into consideration on how sprocketting may effects chain & wheelbase however small they may be.

Example:
Bigger front (Rear remains same**) = better topend.
This configuration will use more of the chain length by virture of having to go around a larger circle. In order to compensate chain slack, One will have to decrease the wheelbase by a small margin. Just for illustration, if front has very big front sprocket almost same size as rear, the chain will not be long enough to go around unless rear sprocket/tyre is moved close to the front.

Smaller rear (Front remains same**) = better topend.
This configuration will increase the wheelbase by a small margin and use less chain length. opposite to above example.

(**I know one can change both at the same time to magnify the effect)

In stock settings, my bike has more room to move the rear tyre backward (increase wheelbase) than forward. So If Im to change sprocket for better topend, I'd rather fiddle with the rear sprocket. Also I may not have to worry that my chain may not be long enough. Is this sound reasoning?

[maxx]

Originally Posted by kaynmantis

Anyone takes into consideration on how sprocketting may effects chain & wheelbase however small they may be.

Example:
Bigger front (Rear remains same**) = better topend.
This configuration will use more of the chain length by virture of having to go around a larger circle. In order to compensate chain slack, One will have to decrease the wheelbase by a small margin. Just for illustration, if front has very big front sprocket almost same size as rear, the chain will not be long enough to go around unless rear sprocket/tyre is moved close to the front.

Smaller rear (Front remains same**) = better topend.
This configuration will increase the wheelbase by a small margin and use less chain length. opposite to above example.

(**I know one can change both at the same time to magnify the effect)

In stock settings, my bike has more room to move the rear tyre backward (increase wheelbase) than forward. So If Im to change sprocket for better topend, I'd rather fiddle with the rear sprocket. Also I may not have to worry that my chain may not be long enough. Is this sound reasoning?

kaynmantis, Yes this sounds intresting as whatever you told about is the actual science behind sprocketing.

[L.P.]

Originally Posted by kaynmantis

Anyone takes into consideration on how sprocketting may effects chain & wheelbase however small they may be.

Example:
Bigger front (Rear remains same**) = better topend.
This configuration will use more of the chain length by virture of having to go around a larger circle. In order to compensate chain slack, One will have to decrease the wheelbase by a small margin. Just for illustration, if front has very big front sprocket almost same size as rear, the chain will not be long enough to go around unless rear sprocket/tyre is moved close to the front.

Smaller rear (Front remains same**) = better topend.
This configuration will increase the wheelbase by a small margin and use less chain length. opposite to above example.

(**I know one can change both at the same time to magnify the effect)

In stock settings, my bike has more room to move the rear tyre backward (increase wheelbase) than forward. So If Im to change sprocket for better topend, I'd rather fiddle with the rear sprocket. Also I may not have to worry that my chain may not be long enough. Is this sound reasoning?

i might sound diiferent but speaking expirienced it personaly.

keeeping the Rear Same:

Increase front: increase in Acc and Dec in TopSpeed
Decrease front: Decrease in ACC and Inc in TopSpeed

Increase rear: increase in Acc and Dec in TopSpeed
Decrease rear: Decrease in ACC and Inc in TopSpeed

Front 1 teeth reduction equals to the same as of 3/4 teeth in the rear!
same the vica versa..

Simple Science involved is:

Reducing the teeth's in the rear,increases the revolutions, Decreasing the same, Decreases the Revolutions..
and vica versa

[maxx]

L.P. got it absolutely correct. Simple science is involved in this!

[Samarth 619]

LP bro, you are right, It's just plain physics, and one can imagine it in mind.

Originally Posted by arjun934

hey guys i am new to sprocketing.
are there any aftermarket sprockets for Thinderbird and Bullet Std.with more teeth.
are they good enough?

how do i increase the low end torque of my bike.
i love to ride in the hills.

how do i go about it.
thanks
aj

See, you can't increase "low end torque". Torque is an engine characteristic, and depends on rpm its is ridden in.
So, when we need more torque we downshift to lower gears, so that rpm is raised. Only this raising in rpm will give you torque..

Do Keep in mind these things:-->

1. Re-gear only if you feel your 1st gear is too tall. Otherwise, Gearing would be pointless, as you can always choose lower gears to pull the load in hilly areas... I hope you got my point.

2. Any of these smaller Indian Commuter Bikes might not have the chain pitch to match the Enfield setup. However, you might try out sprockets from different other enfields...
I'm not sure about them, as I never owned Enfields. Just try them out... Good luck.

[L.P.]

A small correction there..

For either of the actions: increasing front sprocket size or reducing rear one, the gearing becomes taller. The result is reduced acceleration and higher top speed.

Vice versa: Reduce front sprocket size or increase rear sprocket size: shorter gearing = increased acceleration and reduced top speed.

Also the final reduction ratio or secondary reduction ratio tells you the relation between the number of revolutions the front makes for each revolution of the rear. Say the ratio is 15/45 (thats 15 teeth to the front and 45 to the rear) meaning 1:3 meaning for every 3 rotations of the front, the rear rotates once. Now reduce the front sprocket teeth to 10 while keeping the rear at 45. The ratio now is 1:4.5. Which means for every 4.5 rotations of the front sprocket the rear turns once. So the bike builds up acceleration quicker but red-lines at a lower road speed in each gear. Meaning lower top speed.

Take it the other way round and increase the front sprocket teeth to 30. The ratio now stands at 2:3. So now for every 3 rotations of the front sprocket the rear turns twice. Imagine doing 60 at say 5000rpm in the 15/45 case. Now you'd do 120 at the same rpm (provided the engine makes all that much power)

Thanks

Originally Posted by maxx

L.P. got it absolutely correct. Simple science is involved in this!

^^ I am getting that Notion, Maxxx.. ..
How Simple it is that you wanted to convey.. LOL!

[ravi@17bhp]

I guess what Akshay told is correct.

[maxx]

L.P. What I wanted to convey you conveyed just that. Anyways you are a sprocketing genius. You know sprockets better than any 1 else.

[L.P.]

Originally Posted by ravi@17bhp

I guess what Akshay told is correct.

It says:
"This message has been deleted by Akshay.. "

Originally Posted by maxx

L.P. What I wanted to convey you conveyed just that. Anyways you are a sprocketing genius. You know sprockets better than any 1 else.

^^ He He, Thanks Yaar.