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12-24-2008, 06:36 PM
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#1 (permalink) |
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Pulsar Culture.
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Rajasthan
Posts: 2,438
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World of Sprockets!
Gearing is a measure of all the components that determine the rate at which an engine's crankshaft's revolutions are transmitted, into the vehicle's speed. It comes from the word "gears" which are rotating cogs, which decide what speed the machine picks up, at a particular rpm.
 A Sample photo of the front sprocket of my bike (Pulsar 180 UG3) is given below:  Sprocketing means changing the front & rear sprocket sizes to affect gearing. It's one of the simplest and easiest mods. The basic info says that:--> 1. Bigger rear sprocket or smaller front sprocket, results in gearing biased towards acceleration, with some lag in top speed. 2. Smaller rear sprocket or bigger front sprocket, results in gearing biased towards top speed, with some lag in acceleration. Gearing does NOT result in more or less power. It only affects how the power is laid, by changing the balance between top speed and acceleration. So, if one wants more top speed, and is prepared to lose acceleration a bit, or vice versa, then sprocketing is advisable. Taller gearing results in better highway mileage, and short gearing results in less highway mileage. This is due to the fact, that in longer gearing, the machine travels longer distance for a particular engine speed (rpm), and vice versa. Gearing maybe affected by: Sprockets' size change, rear tyre's size change, gearbox modification, clutch drag, etc. Gearing is NOT affected by: Weight/ load change (pillion, etc.), front tyre change, free flow air filters/ power mods, etc. ----------- Change Measurement: Final Gearing Value: The sizes of front and rear sprocket (measured in "no. of teeth" the sprockets have) determines the final gearing. It is calculated by Rear Sprocket Teeth divided by Front sprocket Teeth. Like Pulsar 180 UG4 has a 14 front and 39 rear setup. So, its stock final gearing is 39/14 which is equal to 2.786. Final gearing is for comparison between different sprocket combinations, this way: 45/15= 3.000 (Let's call this "Setup X") 44/14= 3.143 (Under gearing, compared to "Setup X", means more acceleration) 39/14= 2.786 (Over gearing, compared to "Setup X", means more top speed) Higher Final Gearing value signifies moving gearing towards acceleration (short gearing), and vice versa. So, when changing both sprockets from stock, the new gearing value should be calculated to determine which way you're going with gearing. But if you overgear too much, you might need a very long stretch to achieve a good top speed, or you might not achieve it at all. So, for a stock bike, a gearing change should be within 10% at maximum, that's it! -- Rear Tyres size change affect Gearing: Rear Tyre change (size) may affect overall gearing, if the profile (height) is affected due to this change. A higher profile increases gearing, while a lower profile decreases it. A tyre with size 120/70 has a normal height of (120mm x 70%) which is 84mm. But, the broadness of the tyre rim can change the "final height". A broader rim gives less tyre height, as tyre is rubber, and it expands over the broader rim, causing lesser ride height & lower gearing. And of course, vice versa too. For example, if you fit the R15 rear tyre on your Pulsars, you might not change gearing at all, because although the R15 tyre is of lower height, but the Pulsar rim is narrower than R15's, and a narrow rim raises the ride height. Front tyre size change doesn't affect gearing, although it may contribute to a different ride height, weight and different speeds on the speedometer. ============ Direct Sprocket Fits: Remember that your stock chain can be successfully adjusted for upto 2-3 teeth changes in sprockets. Beyond that, you may or may not require a new chain OR you may be required to remove some links from the chain. For the sake of pillion travel, the chain play should be adequate. After re-installing the chain, move the bottom portion of chain upwards, it should go upto 10-15mm only, not more or less than this. Remember that you might need to purchase the whole kit instead of just the sprocket depending on where you purchase it from. These sprocket combinations are direct fits to the mentioned bikes: Apache RTR 160/ 160 Fi: Stock Setup: 13/44 teeth. To overgear RTR 160, use the 14 teeth front sprocket from Yamaha YZF R15/ Fiero F2. (Thanks Aparajith) Apache RTR 180: Stock Setup: 14/46 teeth. To overgear RTR 180, use the 15 teeth front sprocket from Bajaj Pulsar 150/ 180 UG3 only! But, buy a sprocket holder ring and the nuts to suit, as the RTR ones do not match the Pulsars' sprocket. (Thanks FlyingJian & lijok) To undergear RTR 180, use the 13 teeth front sprocket from RTR 160, its a direct fit. (Thanks Utkarsh Stunty Sharma) Pulsar 220 DTS Fi (Old model): Stock setup: 14/37 on .520 pitch. To undergear it, use: P200's rear sprocket, 38 teeth, Karizma's rear sprocket, 40 teeth, (Thanks Prafultripathy) Pulsar 200 DTSi: Stock setup: 14/38 on .520 pitch. To overgear it, use P220's rear sprocket, 36-37 teeth, To undergear it, use Karizma's rear sprocket, 40 teeth, (Thanks Prafultripathy) Pulsar 180 and 150 UG3: Stock Setup: (15/43 and 15/44) To undergear it, use Discover 135 Sports' Front Sprocket, 14 teeth. But you will need Discover's lock plate and nuts. (Thanks Prabhakar 150) To overgear it, use the complete kit of Pulsar 180 UG4, which is 14/39. It might make your bike heavier, but you can remove the chain guard safely, as its maintenance free chain. Remove 2 chain links from the chain, to fit it. For ONLY slight gearing change, you can use P150 UG3's kit in P180 UG3 (for undergearing) and P180 UG3's kit in P150 UG3 (for overgearing). Yamaha YZF R15 Version 1.0: Stock Setup: 14/42 To overgear it, use rear sprocket, 40 teeth from Yamaha FZ 16. (Thanks anirudh_fz1) Daytona Kits for R15 (may be expensive): To undergear it, get the Daytona Kit's 13 teeth front, To undergear it, get the Daytona Kit's 44 teeth rear, To overgear it, get the Daytona Kit's 40 teeth rear. Yamaha FZ16: Stock Setup: 14/40 To overgear it, use front sprocket, 15 teeth from Honda Unicorn or Bajaj Pulsar 150/180 UG3. (Thanks iamvik and) To undergear it, use rear sprocket, 42 teeth from Yamaha YZF R15. (Thanks anirudh_fz1) Daytona Kits for FZ16 (may be expensive): To undergear it, get the Daytona Kit's 13 teeth front or 42 or 44 teeth rear. (For both R15 version 1.0 and FZ16, Daytona kits provide a choice of 40/42/44 teeth sprockets for rear, 13 teeth for front, and either a 122 or a 130 link chain, so you can choose your new gearing accordingly) Honda Shine 125: Stock Setup: 14/~ To overgear it, use front sprocket, 15 teeth from Honda Unicorn. But, you'll have to shave off the sides of the sprocket so it matches the chain pitch. (Bike India) Honda Stunner 125 Carb: Stock Setup: 14/~ To overgear it, use front sprocket, 15 teeth from Honda Unicorn. (Thanks cmahajan) Honda Unicorn 1st and 2nd Gen: Stock Setup: 15/42 Honda Unicorn 3rd/4th onwards: Stock Setup: 15/43 Direct Fits - With Chain pitch .428 (Unicorn Chain) Front 14T from Hero Honda Ambition/CBZ/Xtreme with Rear 38T (Ambition) with Rear 46T (CBZ Classic) With Chain Pitch .520 (Karizma chain): 13T/40T of Karizma 13T(ZMA)/38T(P200) Hero Honda Karizma: Stock Setup: 13/40 on .520 Pitch. To overgear, use a 38 teeth Rear Sprocket from P200, but P200 chain length is not sufficient. Adjust your Karizma Chain after installing. (Thanks Shreeni for above info) Pulsar 150 UG2 (Analog Meter): Stock setup: ~/44 To overgear, use a 40 teeth rear sprocket (with 6 fitment holes) from LML Freedom. It requires cutting 2 links from the chain. (thanks hotshot.vipin) (The rear sprockets of FZ, R15, Pulsar UG2 and earlier, LML Freedom, have 6 fitment holes. Others mostly have 4.) ============ Gearing Commander Website: Guys, we can find final ratio by using any combo of sprockets by using (Rear no. of teeth/Front no. of teeth) formula. But what if we change a lot of things like, both sprockets, rear tyres, Primary Ratio, rear rim, etc.? Fear not, there is a solution. You can find out all about the gearing even before trying it out. Plus it has stock info on gearing of many bikes. You can use the below website for calculating gearing by entering everything that affects gearing:-> http://www.gearingcommander.com/ (Credits: Sir Old Fox) ============ I'll be adding more info. Please suggest improvements to this topic by sending me PM's/ posting here. --Samarth Last edited by Samarth 619; 11-09-2011 at 12:38 PM. |
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12-25-2008, 05:19 PM
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: New Delhi/ Shillong
Posts: 18,275
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Topic Approved.
__________________
...in search of that perfect world - My Travel Blog :) |
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12-26-2008, 03:53 AM
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#5 (permalink) |
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Stop Staring
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Brampton, ON, Canada
Posts: 758
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Can you please explain what is meant by VS Kit, V Kit, Regular Kit and CSB Kit?
Also, will it be allowed for people to post their experiences about sprocketing here in this thread? The decision lies upto the owner and mods of this thread.
__________________
Enna Rascalla. Mind it !!! |
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12-26-2008, 11:12 PM
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#7 (permalink) |
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Pulsar Culture.
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Rajasthan
Posts: 2,438
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Open Chain Covers on regular bikes
About 1 year ago, I removed the full chain cover (metal) and instead used an open chain cover made of plastic. I thought it would save some weight and look great too. See the image below:  Bike: Bajaj Pulsar 180 UG3 Chain Cover used: JN181204 (Original Bajaj Part) costing Rs. 74. Fitting: Had to create a hole (on chain cover) on one end to fit it. Since it was plastic, creating this hole was easy. I can say that even on ordinary chains, you can remove the chain case safely, but you should: 1. search for a good open chain cover. Most of the dirt gets hurled on the top of the running chain, while the bike is in motion. Don't skip this. You must find a decent cover above the chain. If you are unsure, its better to leave the upper part of stock chain cover intact than to completely expose it to dirt. 2. purchase a good quality chain spray. I cleaned my chain using old engine oils, but I don't recommend it to others. Every month, first clean the dirt on the chain using a cloth. Then, apply the chain spray/ formulation on the bottom end of the running chain... CAUTION: Don't clean/ oil the chain while the wheel is rotating too fast, or its rotating on engine power, while on main stand. One may lose a finger by accident if he's not careful. 3. Warn the ladies who sit on your bike, to keep their clothes, etc. out of the chain's reach. My sister's chunni (or dupatta, whatever it is) got entangled in the chain when I was leaving my home, barely at 5 kmph. It got torn. Fortunately, nobody was hurt. Good luck. Last edited by Samarth 619; 10-29-2010 at 11:44 PM. |
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12-28-2008, 12:26 PM
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#8 (permalink) |
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Pulsar Culture.
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Rajasthan
Posts: 2,438
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Chain Pitch:
Chain pitch is the difference between a chain's two adjoining links. Similarly, Sprockets also have a pitch which is the distance between their two adjoining teeth. Have a look here: http://www.ekchain.com/jis.htm Let's take a Chain pitch number: .428 as an example. Here, the 1st digit 'x', is the pitch/ distance between 2 links, in terms of 'x/8 inch'. So, a .428 chain belongs to "4" pitch series, and has a 4/8 or 1/2 inch pitch. (x=4) The next 2 numbers (like "28") denote the sprocket width/ fatness which the chain will comply with too, in terms of distance between inner plates. A chain ending in ‘20’ measures around 6.35mm between the plates. If the number ends in ‘28’, the dimension is around 7.94mm. If the number ends in ‘30’ or ‘32’, the width is around 9.53mm. Because wider chains are typically stronger as well, the 2nd & 3rd digits also indicate a chain’s strength, relative to other chains with the same pitch. See the image below for clarification:  -- In your Bikes: Remember, your entire setup (both sprockets and chain) HAVE TO be on the same chain pitch. You can't fit a .520 pitch sprocket(s) on a .428 chain, or vice versa. For example: If you choose .428 pitch for your bikes, your chain and both the sprockets should be .428 only. Last edited by Samarth 619; 11-28-2011 at 10:52 PM. |
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12-28-2008, 01:55 PM
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Sports CommuTOURer
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: On road
Posts: 6,107
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Quote:
You think Sunny only has this thing to manage? Duh! Chill man! Edit: post it somewhere and link it here... shimple!
__________________
Super CommuTOURer™ - Your Biggest Critic, is usually your Biggest fan! .: Facebook :.|.: iTweet :.|*Do Not Click!*|.: Old Blog :. #Give thy opinion, write em, dont throw em #Everyone errs, accept it, defending/cribbing about it only makes it worse #Dont defend a manufacturer as if you work for them #Write. Think. If relevant hit submit. If not hit yourself #Be kind in your choice of words, you never know who would make you gulp em ™ Satyen Poojary Last edited by satyenpoojary; 12-28-2008 at 01:57 PM. |
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12-29-2008, 04:51 AM
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Akshay4384
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ambala/Chandigarh
Posts: 270
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Quote:
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Why can't he respond to me??
