One question is in my mind and that is - do I ve to count number of turns while taking out the jets for cleaning....i am really confused regarding this...

nice share mate... is by going this flutuation problem solved?

Was this the problem of all the Karizmas of 2006? or was it just your bike? I have the new Karizma 2014 model. I'm having the exact same problem; unstable throttle between 2000-3000. Is the problem because of riding or it is the faulty part problem ?

All Karizmas with Keihin V3 CV Carburetor runs into this problem some times....unstable throttle 2~3 K RPM can also be caused by Lean AFR..Check if AFR is set to 3.5 turns turns from fully closed position...

I'll sure check that. I believe it's not been set rightly by the SC guy. 3.5 turn is the optimum setting for the new karizma? my diff between idle rpm and rpm when hot is wide. It's 1.2-1.3 when cold but it goes around 2 when hot and keeps fluctuating. Since, i'm new to these settings, i'm a bit confused. any tips would be of great help =)

Larger than 250 RPM variation is mostly caused by lean AFR(Air Fuel Ratio).To solve this you have to adjust the AFR screw to 3.5 turns anti clockwise after turning it fully clockwise till it stops.you have to do it gently otherwise you will break the screw or jam it....If you have problems in turning the screw, spray WD40 or Zorrick and wait for 15 minutes....repeat till the screw becomes loose enough to turn..
Good Luck.

This Karizma 2006 model was suffering from rpm fluctuating problem in between 2000 and 3000RPM,So after some Google search and talk with experts,came to know that it is because of a coating over the carburetor slide which is making the slide stuck sometimes.So planned to do a DIY on this issue.Hope this helps many.

Special Thanks to PSR Sir and Ashwin Prakash for guidance and advices.

Tools Required:

Flat Screw Drivers
Star Screw Drivers
And a special tool(mentioned below)

First process is to remove the carburetor from bike.For that:

1. Remove the side panel by removing the screws
2. remove the Accelerator cable cover( Two Screws)
3. remove both accelerator cables using the spanner provided in the tool box
4. Remove the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) by removing two screws
5. Remove the tube connected to the front valve and one in the back from fuel tank,Remeber to close fuel before doing this.
6. Unscrew the clamps that holds the carb to manifold pipes(One from airfilter box to carb and one from carb to engine)
7. slowly pullout the carburetor,remove the choke cable too.
8. Close the rubber pipes using a clean cloth

NEVER USE LOW QUALITY SCREWDRIVERS, IT WILL DEFORM THE SCREWS,USE GOOD QUALITY TOOLS
My Screw Driver:


Here we go:

Remove these two screws on the top of the carburetor:




Hold the top part pressed with your finger,there is a long spring inside,it will jump out if you dont keep it pressed. after removing the screws,slowly open it.you will see these things:



Here is the top cover,there was some rust on mine and some grease like substance too.

Before Cleaning:



After Cleaning:



I used kerosene and a cotton cloth to clean this.

Then there was some black particles in this part too,cleaned it with a cotton cloth and blowed air to clean it.


Here comes the Carburetor Slide:

Saw a small scratch,but not deep,i checked it with my finger,it was smooth.



In the below pics,you can see black coating on the carb slide:





I used this thing,the small solar panel from an old calculator to remove the coating,(made sure that it wont damage the slide in any ways before using it)
just scratch with it to remove the coating.


After cleaning it looked like this:




after scratching it,use a bit colgate paste and little water to clean it and used a clean cotton cloth to wipe it.

After that put everything back in the reverse order,make sure to place the carburetor slide diaphragm in correct manner like in the pic below:




Also removed the bowl and checked the jets for any blocks as per PSR Sir said,No blocks were found and the bowl was clean too,See the pic below,the pic is taken before cleaning:



]

After cleaning process,I tuned the AFR to 3.5 turns,and put it back.
Dont forgot to connect the tubes,choke cable and TPS.Started the bike after making sure that everything is fine,After some cranking bike started,and the Problem is solved.


Sorry for my bad English. Hope this helps.

Again Special thanks to PSR Sir.

All Advice's and Feedback's are welcome,Waiting for Comments.

Hello All,

Kind of stupid to ask the question but I cleaned the Carb due to some idling issue on my Hunk issue solved but after reassembling the carb and fitment I found my starter not working, when pressed the starter switch only "TIK TIK" sound from the Switch under the seat... one thing I forgot to remove was is the TPS Sensor ...

I forgot to remove it and cleaned the whole carb with kerosene and Petrol..

what could be the issue here please advice you help will point me to a right direction for solving it..

thanks'

Tik - tik sound means your starter relay is working. Most probably it is a contact issue, less likely a battery voltage issue. Clean battery and starter relay contacts and check the battery voltage.