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yamaha r15 front fork overhaul
Front end overhaul is basic maintainence followed at every 12000kms as per yamaha r15 manual. Sooner if too much stress is put up onto the bearings. Job is simple but time consuming and very intricate.
This governs how your vehicle behaves when ridden around. Steering overhaul has to be done with utmost accuracy, it can result into fatal consequences to you and your motorcycle. I was requested by few mates to put this up as SVC ahmedabad does pathetic job.
So only proceed if you are confident about that spanner in your hand.
First things first, required tools
1)Allen key 5mm,8mm
2)Pliers
3)ring spanners 18mm, 13mm, 12mm, 17mm, 8mm.
4)philips screw driver
5)Steering nut wrench YSST-721
The procedure
1)Lift the one five on the center stand, idea is to lift the front end up with no restriction to its movement. I used a yamaha rx100 stand and its pin, direct fit. Then remove the front axle using a 17-18mm ring spanned as shown with red circle.
Slide the front wheel off put it aside from the workspace.
2)Now remove the calliper from the right fork leg with 12mm ring spanner. There are two large flange bolts. Slide the calliper out and let it hanging off the brake hose.Then remove the brake hose holder with 8mm ring spanner. Then move over the other side and remove the speedo sensor cable holder with 8mm ring spanner again.
Thus upto this step, I presume every accessory from fork legs is removed and front tyre is removed. Also remove the speedo cable and brake hose securing bracket from the lower steering bracket under the headlams abbove the radiator. Look where brake hose passes, there will be 8mm bolt, you can't miss it.
3)Now come over to the top of the bike over the console area. Now we will loosen the steering bracket pinch bolts to let the forks slide out. As shown in photos, locate 2 pinch allen bolts on both sides of 8mm. One will be of upper steering bracket and another will be of the left or right handlebar, depending on which side you are.
Loosen then completely. No need to take them out, just loosen them to good extent.
4)Now look underneath the headlights and above radiator just where you removed the 8mm bolt in step 2 of speedo cable and brake hose. There are two large pinch bolts, these are primary ones. Loosen them with 13mm ring spanner and then pull the fork legs and slide the forks out. If you loosened all bolts enough, it should slide right off.
Now you can remove fork caps with 17mm ring spanner and check oil level and springs and everything. Recommended oil level is 126mm without spring with forks fully compressed in pouring 240 cm3 of oil in it. Check spring length it should be 384.8mm to 381.8mm. Then check for the dust and fork seals.
5)Loosen the steering stem not using a 17mm spanner, its that 'stainless steel looking' center bolt as shown. Then lift the handlebars aside as shown.
6)Then loosen the steering locknut using the Steering nut wrench YSST-721, if you don't happen to have one, use a philips screw driver and put it as shown in photo and gently tap using a mallet at the end. First lift up the securing ring and remove the top nut, its usually hand tightened so won't be a problem, then using screw driver and mallet or yamaha tool for removal of lower nut. As you remove the nut, make sure someone holds the lower T in place or els it will just slide off.
remove the T set completely with bearings.
7)Clean the T set and bearings and grease it back using a lithium soap based grease.
8)Now reversal isn't quite the same. First put in the lower bearings into the T stem and the upper bearing where they belong,under the locknuts. Then slide in the T, into the steering head and tighten the lower steering locking nut. This is tricky as too much torque can result in abnormal handling as of bearing pressure, too less would result into 'kut-kut' noise when braking hard which will eventually wear the bearings. So this is where steering nut wretch and torque wretch comes in handy.After the lower ring nut is tightened, put the rubber washer and hand tighten the upper locknut and put in the securing pin washer as it was before.Then put up the upper bracket with handlebars and align the holes with lower T for easy passage of forks. After that tighten the steering stem nut temporarily and slide in forks. Making sure that fork level at both ends is same at the top of handlebars tighten the lower T pinch bolts with 13mm spanner. Now they are tight and completely adjusted forks, tighten the steering stem nut completely and then tighten the handlebar and upper bracket allen bolts. Now this lower T bracket pinch bolts of 12mm and upper bracket bolts of 8mm allen key has to be really tight or else forks will slide into the steering stem under braking. That would be disasterous.
Then put up those accessories and then the tyre. Catch here is to put speedo sensor first onto the right side of front tyre and then hold it between the forks and slide the axle through and through. Then put in calliper and tightnen those bolts tight.
Make sure the front tyre rotates freely after the calliper is put on.
For torque wretch holders, the torque is 48Nm on the lower lock nut of steering and 35Nm on steering stem bolt.
This governs how your vehicle behaves when ridden around. Steering overhaul has to be done with utmost accuracy, it can result into fatal consequences to you and your motorcycle. I was requested by few mates to put this up as SVC ahmedabad does pathetic job.
So only proceed if you are confident about that spanner in your hand.
First things first, required tools
1)Allen key 5mm,8mm
2)Pliers
3)ring spanners 18mm, 13mm, 12mm, 17mm, 8mm.
4)philips screw driver
5)Steering nut wrench YSST-721
The procedure
1)Lift the one five on the center stand, idea is to lift the front end up with no restriction to its movement. I used a yamaha rx100 stand and its pin, direct fit. Then remove the front axle using a 17-18mm ring spanned as shown with red circle.
Slide the front wheel off put it aside from the workspace.
2)Now remove the calliper from the right fork leg with 12mm ring spanner. There are two large flange bolts. Slide the calliper out and let it hanging off the brake hose.Then remove the brake hose holder with 8mm ring spanner. Then move over the other side and remove the speedo sensor cable holder with 8mm ring spanner again.
Thus upto this step, I presume every accessory from fork legs is removed and front tyre is removed. Also remove the speedo cable and brake hose securing bracket from the lower steering bracket under the headlams abbove the radiator. Look where brake hose passes, there will be 8mm bolt, you can't miss it.
3)Now come over to the top of the bike over the console area. Now we will loosen the steering bracket pinch bolts to let the forks slide out. As shown in photos, locate 2 pinch allen bolts on both sides of 8mm. One will be of upper steering bracket and another will be of the left or right handlebar, depending on which side you are.
Loosen then completely. No need to take them out, just loosen them to good extent.
4)Now look underneath the headlights and above radiator just where you removed the 8mm bolt in step 2 of speedo cable and brake hose. There are two large pinch bolts, these are primary ones. Loosen them with 13mm ring spanner and then pull the fork legs and slide the forks out. If you loosened all bolts enough, it should slide right off.
Now you can remove fork caps with 17mm ring spanner and check oil level and springs and everything. Recommended oil level is 126mm without spring with forks fully compressed in pouring 240 cm3 of oil in it. Check spring length it should be 384.8mm to 381.8mm. Then check for the dust and fork seals.
5)Loosen the steering stem not using a 17mm spanner, its that 'stainless steel looking' center bolt as shown. Then lift the handlebars aside as shown.
6)Then loosen the steering locknut using the Steering nut wrench YSST-721, if you don't happen to have one, use a philips screw driver and put it as shown in photo and gently tap using a mallet at the end. First lift up the securing ring and remove the top nut, its usually hand tightened so won't be a problem, then using screw driver and mallet or yamaha tool for removal of lower nut. As you remove the nut, make sure someone holds the lower T in place or els it will just slide off.
remove the T set completely with bearings.
7)Clean the T set and bearings and grease it back using a lithium soap based grease.
8)Now reversal isn't quite the same. First put in the lower bearings into the T stem and the upper bearing where they belong,under the locknuts. Then slide in the T, into the steering head and tighten the lower steering locking nut. This is tricky as too much torque can result in abnormal handling as of bearing pressure, too less would result into 'kut-kut' noise when braking hard which will eventually wear the bearings. So this is where steering nut wretch and torque wretch comes in handy.After the lower ring nut is tightened, put the rubber washer and hand tighten the upper locknut and put in the securing pin washer as it was before.Then put up the upper bracket with handlebars and align the holes with lower T for easy passage of forks. After that tighten the steering stem nut temporarily and slide in forks. Making sure that fork level at both ends is same at the top of handlebars tighten the lower T pinch bolts with 13mm spanner. Now they are tight and completely adjusted forks, tighten the steering stem nut completely and then tighten the handlebar and upper bracket allen bolts. Now this lower T bracket pinch bolts of 12mm and upper bracket bolts of 8mm allen key has to be really tight or else forks will slide into the steering stem under braking. That would be disasterous.
Then put up those accessories and then the tyre. Catch here is to put speedo sensor first onto the right side of front tyre and then hold it between the forks and slide the axle through and through. Then put in calliper and tightnen those bolts tight.
Make sure the front tyre rotates freely after the calliper is put on.
For torque wretch holders, the torque is 48Nm on the lower lock nut of steering and 35Nm on steering stem bolt.
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