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Changing Engine oil filter, Engine oil and Air filter in RE Cl350

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  • Changing Engine oil filter, Engine oil and Air filter in RE Cl350

    It is time for the bull to get regular blood transfusion. Tried for other engine oil 15W50 but found only Motul 3000 15W50. Some how I am not satisfied with Motul for the bull but Motul did wonders in my FZS. So I am sticking to the regular Liquid gun 15W50 by Royal Enfield (made by HPCL). Planned to change the air filter also since it was too dirty even after cleaning ( I ride some times in very dusty roads).

    Tools required.
    1. 8mm socket.
    2. 10mm Socket
    3. 12 mm socket
    4. 19 mm socket
    5. Funnel
    6. Basin for collecting the old oil.


    Accessories required.
    1. Liquid gun 15W50 - 2.5 Ltrs can (Rs. 840)
    2. Oil Filter (Rs. 45)
    3. Air filter ( Rs. 110)


    Procedure:
    1. Warm up the engine by riding the bike for about 5-6 kms.
    2. Remove the filler plug so as to allow the air to flow freely during removal of engine oil. Click image for larger version

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    3. Remove the 2 bolts using 8mm socket. Click image for larger version

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    4. Remove the cover and the mesh. Clean them properly as there will be small metal particles attached to the magnet in the cover.
    5. Drain the engine oil into the basin and tilt the bike left and right to remove the remaining oil.
    6. Assemble them back the same way we removed them. Care should be given not to over tighten the bolts.
    7. Remove the 19 mm bolt using the 19mm socket. Click image for larger version

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    8. Similarly, drain the engine oil into the basin and tilt the bike left and right to remove the remaining oil.
    9. Assemble them back the same way we removed them. Care should be given not to over tighten the bolts.
    10. Remove the 12 mm bolt using the 12mm socket. Click image for larger version

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    11. Similarly, drain the engine oil into the basin and tilt the bike left and right to remove the remaining oil.
    12. Assemble them back the same way we removed them. Care should be given not to over tighten the bolts.
    13. Now remove the 3 bolts using the 8 mm socket. Care should be taken as the oil filter is assembled along with a spring as shown in the photo. Click image for larger version

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ID:	1995088 Click image for larger version

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    14. Using a cloth to clean the oil inside the oil filter bay to remove the old oil. Click image for larger version

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    15. Clean the O-ring, spring and the cover. Soak the new oil filter in fresh engine oil before assembling. Assemble all the components along with the new oil filter as we have removed the.
    16. Now by using the funnel( a small jugaad I did for easy oil change) fill the engine oil. Click image for larger version

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    17. Start the engine and let it idle run for few seconds. (Note - do not raise the accelerator as the oil has to circulate first).
    18. Switch off the engine and let the engine oil rest for 5 mins. Now look at the engine oil level which should be at the maximum limit. Click image for larger version

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    19. Colour of the old engine oil. Click image for larger version

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    20. Now we can change the Air filter. Open the right hand side box using the ignition key to revel the air filter. Click image for larger version

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    21. Using a 10mm socket remove the bolt. Click image for larger version

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    22. Install the new air filter the same way. ( Note: Do not apply to much torque as the plate will compress the air filter more and can lead to damaged air filter. After applying sufficient torque just try to shake the air filter gently. If it does not move then the torque is fine) Click image for larger version

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    23. Comparison of the old cleaned air filter and new air filter. Look how dirty the old air filter is even after cleaning. Click image for larger version

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    Disclaimer: Please take all the precaution while handling Engine oil and Please proceed on the following DIY at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage incurred.

    Cheers

    Mathews

    Smile at everyone you meet and make someone happy.

    Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "




  • #2
    Re: Changing Engine oil filter, Engine oil and Air filter in RE Cl350

    DIY Approved

    Thanks Mathew
    Biking is not about what you have between your legs, its all about how well you use it!!!!!!!

    Give your details here if you want to help your fellow xBhpian stranded in your city

    Touring Blog: Cycling in Mongolia!

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Changing Engine oil filter, Engine oil and Air filter in RE Cl350

      Originally posted by accuengineer View Post
      It is time for the bull to get regular blood transfusion. Tried for other engine oil 15W50 but found only Motul 3000 15W50. Some how I am not satisfied with Motul for the bull but Motul did wonders in my FZS. So I am sticking to the regular Liquid gun 15W50 by Royal Enfield (made by HPCL). Planned to change the air filter also since it was too dirty even after cleaning ( I ride some times in very dusty roads).

      Mathews
      That's a very fine and detailed pictorial DIY Sir. Could you please give details about the type of tool set which I need in case of clutch cable and accelerator cable change apart from the above tools? What type of tool set will I carry in case of long rides?( I have a RE thunderbird).

      Thanks,

      Ritabroto
      Last edited by The Monk; 03-24-2016, 02:17 PM. Reason: Please don't quote all the pictures. Thanks
      IF YOU ARE NOT WILLING TO RISK IT ALL, THEN YOU DON'T WANT IT BAD ENOUGH

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Changing Engine oil filter, Engine oil and Air filter in RE Cl350

        Hai
        You can check my other DIY http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...sic-350-a.html . I have mentioned the tools required to change the clutch cable and accelerator cable

        Cheers

        Mathews

        Smile at everyone you meet and make someone happy.

        Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "



        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Changing Engine oil filter, Engine oil and Air filter in RE Cl350

          Does the O ring of oil filter need to be changed with every oil change ? (gixxer manual say's so) .

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Changing Engine oil filter, Engine oil and Air filter in RE Cl350

            Hai
            It is not mandatory to change the o ring. When replacing the oil filter check the o ring is hardened or is cut in any area. Because this can cause oil to leakage. Then you will have to change the o ring.
            Cheers

            Mathews

            Smile at everyone you meet and make someone happy.

            Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "



            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Changing Engine oil filter, Engine oil and Air filter in RE Cl350

              Hi Mathew ,
              Thanks for the very informative post for us bulletiers. I have a small query of you can help me with.
              I have a Thunderbird and have done 21000 KM in a year. Now my bike is due for a servicing and i want to move to motul 5100 15w50.
              What should be the ideal process for engine oil change. And few people suggest that oil chamber need to be opened and cleaned with cleansing solvent but Enfield says otherwise.
              So please help me with this.
              Thanks
              Funrider
              Miles Munching

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Changing Engine oil filter, Engine oil and Air filter in RE Cl350

                Originally posted by Funrider View Post
                Hi Mathew ,
                Thanks for the very informative post for us bulletiers. I have a small query of you can help me with.
                I have a Thunderbird and have done 21000 KM in a year. Now my bike is due for a servicing and i want to move to motul 5100 15w50.
                What should be the ideal process for engine oil change. And few people suggest that oil chamber need to be opened and cleaned with cleansing solvent but Enfield says otherwise.
                So please help me with this.
                Thanks
                Funrider
                Hai

                This process of any cleaning solvent is not required as Motul 5100 is semi synthetic which means it has mineral oil also. Just drain the old oil completed through the drain port and replace the old oil filter. Now fill Motul 5100. No harm will come to your bird.

                Cheers

                Mathews

                Smile at everyone you meet and make someone happy.

                Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "



                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Changing Engine oil filter, Engine oil and Air filter in RE Cl350

                  Originally posted by accuengineer View Post
                  It is time for the bull to get regular blood transfusion. Tried for other engine oil 15W50 but found only Motul 3000 15W50. Some how I am not satisfied with Motul for the bull but Motul did wonders in my FZS. So I am sticking to the regular Liquid gun 15W50 by Royal Enfield (made by HPCL). Planned to change the air filter also since it was too dirty even after cleaning ( I ride some times in very dusty roads).

                  Tools required.
                  1. 8mm socket.
                  2. 10mm Socket
                  3. 12 mm socket
                  4. 19 mm socket
                  5. Funnel
                  6. Basin for collecting the old oil.


                  Accessories required.
                  1. Liquid gun 15W50 - 2.5 Ltrs can (Rs. 840)
                  2. Oil Filter (Rs. 45)
                  3. Air filter ( Rs. 110)


                  Procedure:
                  1. Warm up the engine by riding the bike for about 5-6 kms.
                  2. Remove the filler plug so as to allow the air to flow freely during removal of engine oil. [ATTACH]206807[/ATTACH]
                  3. Remove the 2 bolts using 8mm socket. [ATTACH]206808[/ATTACH]
                  4. Remove the cover and the mesh. Clean them properly as there will be small metal particles attached to the magnet in the cover.
                  5. Drain the engine oil into the basin and tilt the bike left and right to remove the remaining oil.
                  6. Assemble them back the same way we removed them. Care should be given not to over tighten the bolts.
                  7. Remove the 19 mm bolt using the 19mm socket. [ATTACH]206809[/ATTACH]
                  8. Similarly, drain the engine oil into the basin and tilt the bike left and right to remove the remaining oil.
                  9. Assemble them back the same way we removed them. Care should be given not to over tighten the bolts.
                  10. Remove the 12 mm bolt using the 12mm socket. [ATTACH]206810[/ATTACH]
                  11. Similarly, drain the engine oil into the basin and tilt the bike left and right to remove the remaining oil.
                  12. Assemble them back the same way we removed them. Care should be given not to over tighten the bolts.
                  13. Now remove the 3 bolts using the 8 mm socket. Care should be taken as the oil filter is assembled along with a spring as shown in the photo. [ATTACH]206811[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]206812[/ATTACH][ATTACH]206813[/ATTACH][ATTACH]206814[/ATTACH][ATTACH]206815[/ATTACH]
                  14. Using a cloth to clean the oil inside the oil filter bay to remove the old oil. [ATTACH]206816[/ATTACH]
                  15. Clean the O-ring, spring and the cover. Soak the new oil filter in fresh engine oil before assembling. Assemble all the components along with the new oil filter as we have removed the.
                  16. Now by using the funnel( a small jugaad I did for easy oil change) fill the engine oil. [ATTACH]206817[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]206818[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]206819[/ATTACH]
                  17. Start the engine and let it idle run for few seconds. (Note - do not raise the accelerator as the oil has to circulate first).
                  18. Switch off the engine and let the engine oil rest for 5 mins. Now look at the engine oil level which should be at the maximum limit. [ATTACH]206825[/ATTACH]
                  19. Colour of the old engine oil. [ATTACH]206820[/ATTACH]
                  20. Now we can change the Air filter. Open the right hand side box using the ignition key to revel the air filter. [ATTACH]206821[/ATTACH]
                  21. Using a 10mm socket remove the bolt. [ATTACH]206822[/ATTACH]
                  22. Install the new air filter the same way. ( Note: Do not apply to much torque as the plate will compress the air filter more and can lead to damaged air filter. After applying sufficient torque just try to shake the air filter gently. If it does not move then the torque is fine) [ATTACH]206824[/ATTACH]
                  23. Comparison of the old cleaned air filter and new air filter. Look how dirty the old air filter is even after cleaning. [ATTACH]206823[/ATTACH]



                  Disclaimer: Please take all the precaution while handling Engine oil and Please proceed on the following DIY at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage incurred.

                  Cheers

                  Mathews
                  I suggest you to use Motul 5100 instead of Motul 3100

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hai Everybody,

                    Being inactive for few years. Meanwhile my bully has completed 1.3 L Kms with a heart transplant done at 1.0 L kms due to cam shaft bearing failure (Ceased). I have tried and tested many brands of Engine Oil at a regular change frequency of 6000 kms.

                    The Engine Oil 15W50 Brands used.
                    1. Liquid Gun (RE brand- made by HPCL) - Mineral
                    2. HPCL - Mineral
                    3. Castrol - Semi synthetic
                    4. Valvoline- Semi synthetic
                    5. ELF- Semi synthetic
                    6. Mobil- Semi synthetic
                    7. Petronas- Semi synthetic
                    8. Shell - Fully Synthetic (Presently under trial - 1500 kms )
                    Of the above brands. My recommendations are as follows.
                    1. ELF- Semi synthetic
                    2. Valvoline- Semi synthetic
                    3. Mobil- Semi synthetic
                    4. Petronas- Semi synthetic
                    P.S - Shell (Fully Synthetic ) is under observation. But it is a overkill as 1 L Fully Synthetic Oil cost is equal to 2,5L Semi Synthetic Oil cost. Got it as a test sample. But the initial observation - The gear changing is Butter Smooth and Engine revs stress free. Vibration is negligible ( I love the vibes as it is the character of the Bike).

                    Will update soon.

                    Cheers,

                    Lasu Mathews

                    Smile at everyone you meet and make someone happy.

                    Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "



                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by accuengineer View Post
                      Hai Everybody,

                      Being inactive for few years. Meanwhile my bully has completed 1.3 L Kms with a heart transplant done at 1.0 L kms due to cam shaft bearing failure (Ceased). I have tried and tested many brands of Engine Oil at a regular change frequency of 6000 kms.

                      The Engine Oil 15W50 Brands used.
                      1. Liquid Gun (RE brand- made by HPCL) - Mineral
                      2. HPCL - Mineral
                      3. Castrol - Semi synthetic
                      4. Valvoline- Semi synthetic
                      5. ELF- Semi synthetic
                      6. Mobil- Semi synthetic
                      7. Petronas- Semi synthetic
                      8. Shell - Fully Synthetic (Presently under trial - 1500 kms )
                      Of the above brands. My recommendations are as follows.
                      1. ELF- Semi synthetic
                      2. Valvoline- Semi synthetic
                      3. Mobil- Semi synthetic
                      4. Petronas- Semi synthetic
                      P.S - Shell (Fully Synthetic ) is under observation. But it is a overkill as 1 L Fully Synthetic Oil cost is equal to 2,5L Semi Synthetic Oil cost. Got it as a test sample. But the initial observation - The gear changing is Butter Smooth and Engine revs stress free. Vibration is negligible ( I love the vibes as it is the character of the Bike).

                      Will update soon.

                      Cheers,

                      Lasu Mathews
                      Hi

                      Just a quick update for the Shell (Fully Synthetic)

                      At about 3,000Kms felt like the bully was little rough but the level of the oil was the same no dip in the level. I wanted to stop the experiment but heard from one of my buddies that fully synthetic oil will some time behave like this when the internals are cleaned by the oil. Don't know if this is true. So though of extending my experiment to another 500 to 1,000kms. After 3,800 kms, I would say magic has happened. The bully was so smooth that I could not believe that it is my bully. Be it gear change or the beautiful thump. It was blissful. Now completed almost close to 7,100 kms. No drop in Oil level and the oil is still maintaining its viscosity. The friend who gave me this Oil told me that this is used in super bikes and for my bully it can easily do 10,000 to 12,000 kms. I am also planning to touch 10,000 kms. But I am ever conscious about the oil level. Let see.

                      Will update soon.

                      Cheers,

                      Mathews

                      Smile at everyone you meet and make someone happy.

                      Its better to sweat than bleed!! "AGATT "



                      Comment

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