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If engine is the heart of the bike, then brakes are the WBC (White Blood Cells) of the bike. It fights against all odds to stop and prevent an accident. It also needs proper maintenance. So, decided to overhaul the front disc brake system.
Tools :
Spares:
Procedure:
1. Remove the 2 bolts using a 12 mm socket or ring spanner.
2.Remove the spring clip and remove the brake pad along with the pin and brake pad holder clip.
3.Remove the floating holder by sliding outwards.
4. Now slowly pump the front brake using the front brake lever.
5. The 2 pistons will move slowly outwards. CAUTION/WARNING: Make sure that both the pistons are moving forward or else if one piston alone is remove then it will be difficult to remove the other piston. If one piston is not moving the hold the piston which is moving using a water pump plier and exert pressure on the lever. Now the struck piston will move forward. Once the Piston reaches the end, brake fluid will start leaking from the calliper. Make sure that it does not fall on any painted surface as it can remove the same. Carefully remove the piston by hand do not use any tools like pliers. I made a mistake while removing the pistons in the end. I used a nose plier which created marks on the outer surface of the piston as the piston are made of aluminium. Now I had to replace with a new piston or else it will damage the new calliper seal.
7. Remove the bleed screw using a 11mm socket/spanner.
8. Remove the old calliper seal using a Compass/ divider/sharp tool.
9. Clean the calliper unit thoroughly using diesel. You might have to use tooth brush as there will be thick carbon deposits.
10. Clean the inside of the calliper unit using a clean cloth(Preferably a lint free cloth) and keep it sealed in a plastic cover till you are ready for final assembly.
11. Now remove the cover of the reservoir using a star screw driver and remove the cover. Note: There is a possibility that the screw is rusted inside and will not open easily. So tap the screw gently with a nylon hammer to release the screw.
12. Remove the plastic cover.
13. Remove the rubber bellow. CAUTION/WARNING: There will be brake fluid inside the reservoir. Be careful not to spill on any painted surface.
14. Now using a syringe/ ink filler remove the old brake oil.
15. Cleaning the reservoir.
16. Remove the brake lever using a flat screw driver and 10mm socket /spanner.
17. Remove the plunger using the screw driver.
18. Remove the circlip using an inner circlip plier.
19. Remove the piston along with the spring.
20. Clean the master cylinder.
21. Now assemble the new calliper seal. Make sure it sits properly inside the groove.
23. Now assemble all the parts like the way we have removed it except for the covers of the reservoir. NOTE: Apply grease on the sliding pin before assembling for smooth functioning.
24. Do not tighten the bleed screw fully. Now insert a battery drainage tube on to bleed screw and the other side either a tray or a bottle can be kept for catching the excess brake fluid.
25. Now pour the brake fluid into the reservoir.
26. Now slowly pump the brake lever. This can also be done using vacuum pump but it is a dead investment. I would rather do it the old fashioned way. But this requires a lot of patience.
27. You can see bubbles coming up the reservoir. After pumping for some time. The brake fluid will start coming out of the bleed screw. CAUTION/WARNING - Do not let the reservoir dry as it can suck in air bubbles always maintain the level of the brake fluid by topping it up now and then.
28. Now give slow intermittent pumps to allow the trapped air to come out through the bleed screw.
29. Now brake fluid will start come out of the bleed screw without any air bubbles. Now tighten the bleed screw.
30. Now give 2 to 3 consecutive pumps and let go. Air bubbles will be come out of the reservoir.
31. Now after some pumps the brake level which was free to pump will start to become hard (i.e) the play distance of the brake lever will reduce.
32. Now almost all the air inside the system is removed. Test ride the bike in slow speed for braking.
33. If the brake feels spongy and not as crisp as before. Depress the brake lever fully and lock it in that position by using wire managers (5 to 6 nos). Let this setup be for the whole night. Remove the wire managers. All the remaining air would be flushed out from the system.
Cheers
Mathews.
If engine is the heart of the bike, then brakes are the WBC (White Blood Cells) of the bike. It fights against all odds to stop and prevent an accident. It also needs proper maintenance. So, decided to overhaul the front disc brake system.
Tools :
- 12.00 mm Socket/spanner
- 11.00 mm socket/spanner
- 10.00 mm Socket/spanner
- Water pump plier
- Screw driver flat
- Compass/ divider/sharp tool
- Inner circlip plier.
- Syringe/ ink filler.
- Battery water drainage tube.
Spares:
Procedure:
1. Remove the 2 bolts using a 12 mm socket or ring spanner.
2.Remove the spring clip and remove the brake pad along with the pin and brake pad holder clip.
3.Remove the floating holder by sliding outwards.
4. Now slowly pump the front brake using the front brake lever.
5. The 2 pistons will move slowly outwards. CAUTION/WARNING: Make sure that both the pistons are moving forward or else if one piston alone is remove then it will be difficult to remove the other piston. If one piston is not moving the hold the piston which is moving using a water pump plier and exert pressure on the lever. Now the struck piston will move forward. Once the Piston reaches the end, brake fluid will start leaking from the calliper. Make sure that it does not fall on any painted surface as it can remove the same. Carefully remove the piston by hand do not use any tools like pliers. I made a mistake while removing the pistons in the end. I used a nose plier which created marks on the outer surface of the piston as the piston are made of aluminium. Now I had to replace with a new piston or else it will damage the new calliper seal.
7. Remove the bleed screw using a 11mm socket/spanner.
8. Remove the old calliper seal using a Compass/ divider/sharp tool.
9. Clean the calliper unit thoroughly using diesel. You might have to use tooth brush as there will be thick carbon deposits.
10. Clean the inside of the calliper unit using a clean cloth(Preferably a lint free cloth) and keep it sealed in a plastic cover till you are ready for final assembly.
11. Now remove the cover of the reservoir using a star screw driver and remove the cover. Note: There is a possibility that the screw is rusted inside and will not open easily. So tap the screw gently with a nylon hammer to release the screw.
12. Remove the plastic cover.
13. Remove the rubber bellow. CAUTION/WARNING: There will be brake fluid inside the reservoir. Be careful not to spill on any painted surface.
14. Now using a syringe/ ink filler remove the old brake oil.
15. Cleaning the reservoir.
16. Remove the brake lever using a flat screw driver and 10mm socket /spanner.
17. Remove the plunger using the screw driver.
18. Remove the circlip using an inner circlip plier.
19. Remove the piston along with the spring.
20. Clean the master cylinder.
21. Now assemble the new calliper seal. Make sure it sits properly inside the groove.
23. Now assemble all the parts like the way we have removed it except for the covers of the reservoir. NOTE: Apply grease on the sliding pin before assembling for smooth functioning.
24. Do not tighten the bleed screw fully. Now insert a battery drainage tube on to bleed screw and the other side either a tray or a bottle can be kept for catching the excess brake fluid.
25. Now pour the brake fluid into the reservoir.
26. Now slowly pump the brake lever. This can also be done using vacuum pump but it is a dead investment. I would rather do it the old fashioned way. But this requires a lot of patience.
27. You can see bubbles coming up the reservoir. After pumping for some time. The brake fluid will start coming out of the bleed screw. CAUTION/WARNING - Do not let the reservoir dry as it can suck in air bubbles always maintain the level of the brake fluid by topping it up now and then.
28. Now give slow intermittent pumps to allow the trapped air to come out through the bleed screw.
29. Now brake fluid will start come out of the bleed screw without any air bubbles. Now tighten the bleed screw.
30. Now give 2 to 3 consecutive pumps and let go. Air bubbles will be come out of the reservoir.
31. Now after some pumps the brake level which was free to pump will start to become hard (i.e) the play distance of the brake lever will reduce.
32. Now almost all the air inside the system is removed. Test ride the bike in slow speed for braking.
33. If the brake feels spongy and not as crisp as before. Depress the brake lever fully and lock it in that position by using wire managers (5 to 6 nos). Let this setup be for the whole night. Remove the wire managers. All the remaining air would be flushed out from the system.
Cheers
Mathews.
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