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Bajaj Pulsar 220 Clip-on's to Handlebar Conversion
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 220 Clip-on's to Handlebar Conversion
Depends on the Pulsar in question, as long as the fork Dia remains the same it would be a walk in the park.Originally posted by Pinak-the stunner View PostMotorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 220 Clip-on's to Handlebar Conversion
it will work with the 150s but the 180 ug 4 onwards the inner tube dia is more so it wont work on themOriginally posted by Pinak-the stunner View PostWill the upper T of pulsar UG 2 fit into that of pulsar UG 4.5 or 5 so that instead of drilling holes in the Upper T the handle can be fitted directly?Kawasaki KB100/enduro/125 substitute parts list http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/508615-post105.html
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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 220 Clip-on's to Handlebar Conversion
Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Posthi all,
thought i'd share this diy mod i've done on my p220 with the help of a friend.
requirements:
- bajaj discover 150f/s handlebar, holders and spacers
- bajaj avenger 220 brake-line and clutch cable.
procedure:
drill holes on the stock upper t plate taking into consideration clearance for the 22mm cone-set bolt, if you pay close attention to the below photo you can observe a reference line drawn just above the bolt.
as for the switch-set, you may drill holes on the handlebar to match the position pins inside the switch-set or you can just tap the pins so that it goes in and then use 3m double side tape to ensure that they stay in place, which is what i have done.
purpose:
upright riding position, after putting close to 10k km's on the ct100b i just loved the riding position which reminded me of the hero honda karizma and decided to go for this.
downside:
if you're a function over form guy, then none to be specific as there is no fouling with fairing present.
As for downgrading from steel braided lines to rubber ones, well i personally haven't noticed any drastic differences, and a shout-out goes to bajaj for providing banjo bolts and copper spacers within the brake-line packet.
looks:
you get to be the judge of that;
the most vital part of the entire process is the 'drilling of holes'. If by any chance the holes are drilled at the inappropriate position, then the entire handling will be screwed up.
Any suggestion... How to make sure the holes are drilleed just at the right points??
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