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DIY: Motorcycle Battery Eliminator

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  • #1

    DIY: Motorcycle Battery Eliminator

    This is one of the oldest mods in the book which now seems to have gone out of fashion due to increasing electrical dependence and is only seen done in survivalist builds.

    Anyways the reason for me opting for the same is due to my stock battery crapping out and today being one of those rainy days I thought of going with the more economical(Under Rs.100/-) and permanent route i.e capacitors.

    Requirements:


    • 4700uF 50V Capacitor.
    • Wire and Clips matching your stock harness.
    • Soldering Kit.
    • Heat-shrink sleeve.


    Procedure:

    Determine the polarity(either one or both of the poles would be marked, look for it) of the capacitor and go ahead with the wire coding, soldering and insulation bits, and you'll end up with something like this.

    Click image for larger version Name: DSC00081.jpg Views: 1 Size: 51.9 KB ID: 2001888

    Now go ahead and scrap your battery and also get rid of any defunct parts such as the battery clamp which would cease to serve any purpose going forward and connect the capacitor to the exact same poles that connect to the battery i.e (+=+) and (-=-).

    Click image for larger version Name: DSC00088.jpg Views: 1 Size: 114.2 KB ID: 2001890

    Secure the capacitor so that it doesn't move around and break contact or short out.

    Click image for larger version Name: DSC00085.jpg Views: 1 Size: 103.7 KB ID: 2001889

    Fine Tuning:

    Raise the idle(mine was set very low from factory) a bit to make sure that the lights stop flickering and the horn works fine at idle, and you're done.

    Cheers.
    A.P.
    Motorcycling Experience:
    2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
    2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
    2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
    2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
    2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
    2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!

    The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
    Adios Comrades!
    A.P. 2018
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Re: DIY: Motorcycle Battery Eliminator

    DIY approved.

    Can you suggest a use case for a comparatively modern bike, say a 2008 Pulsar?
    ---
    Brotherhood, Rules, Freedom. Xbhp.
    Indian riding = Alertness, Anticipation and Adjustment.

    Comment

    • #3
      Re: DIY: Motorcycle Battery Eliminator

      A 15,000uF/50V Radial Electrolytic Capacitor (15000uf / 50 volt) would work Excellent, and its under 150 Rs., A 15,0000uF capacitor will hold much more charge.

      Comment

      • #4
        Re: DIY: Motorcycle Battery Eliminator

        Originally posted by Samarth 619 View Post
        DIY approved.

        Can you suggest a use case for a comparatively modern bike, say a 2008 Pulsar?
        Better I'll generalize.

        Motorcycles with DC Ignition:

        Your CDI is DC powered hence without a battery or a properly functioning one your motorcycle wont start(RE) or would not run right(ZMA).

        In these motorcycles using a Capacitor alone would enable the motorcycle to run without a battery and a capacitor connected parallel to the battery would enable the motorcycle to run irrespective of the battery's condition, plus being more efficient it would ensure that your electrical's work better.

        Motorcycle with AC Ignition:

        Your CDI is powered by the alternator so irrespective of what the condition of the battery is your motorcycle would run but your electrical's still depend on the battery so without a battery your electrical's wont work and with a compromised battery they wont work well, so using a standalone capacitor would ensure that everything would without the need for a battery, and if by chance you have a self starter and depend on the battery then you can connect the capacitor parallel to the battery so again it would ensure than your other electrical's work more efficiently.

        Thumb rule:

        If you don't have a kick starter then connect the capacitor parallel to the battery so that if your motorcycle is DC then in the event of the battery crapping out you can still push start your motorcycle or if your motorcycle is AC then your electrical's would work more efficiently even when the battery is not at its optimum.

        If you only have a kick starter then scrap the battery and go for a capacitor, irrespective of whether AC or DC your motorcycle will run better as long as you've done the math.

        If you have both a self starter and kick starter then it is still better to have a capacitor for either of the above stated reasons.
        Last edited by ashwinprakas; 06-13-2018, 05:21 PM.
        Motorcycling Experience:
        2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
        2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
        2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
        2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
        2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
        2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!

        The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
        Adios Comrades!
        A.P. 2018

        Comment

        • #5
          Re: DIY: Motorcycle Battery Eliminator

          Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
          Better I'll generalize.

          Motorcycles with DC Ignition:

          Your CDI is DC powered hence without a battery or a properly function......
          Cool. Thanks for the details and the awesome post.

          I guess the bike I've quoted (Pulsar 2008) is of the second type (with AC ignition). And that's what raised my question. Because, I was in an unlucky situation where my battery had to be removed from the bike.
          The bike started easy, but its console was off, and the console too started moments later.
          ---
          Brotherhood, Rules, Freedom. Xbhp.
          Indian riding = Alertness, Anticipation and Adjustment.

          Comment

          • #6
            Re: DIY: Motorcycle Battery Eliminator

            I did not find 50v 4700uf Cap, got 63v 4700uf instead will it work?

            I want to install this on my Honda Dazzler which has a 4ah VRLA battery and headlight brightness is too weak as it operates on coil.

            Comment

            • #7
              Re: DIY: Motorcycle Battery Eliminator

              Originally posted by deathbearer View Post
              I did not find 50v 4700uf Cap, got 63v 4700uf instead will it work?

              I want to install this on my Honda Dazzler which has a 4ah VRLA battery and headlight brightness is too weak as it operates on coil.
              That would work as well. Though the HL being AC powered the output would still be the same unless the battery is draining too much power from the coil.
              Motorcycling Experience:
              2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
              2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
              2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
              2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
              2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
              2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!

              The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
              Adios Comrades!
              A.P. 2018

              Comment

              • #8
                Re: DIY: Motorcycle Battery Eliminator

                Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
                Better I'll generalize.
                [/B][/U] a capacitor connected parallel to the battery would enable the motorcycle to run irrespective of the battery's condition ...
                Ashwin , I think it's not a good idea to connect a capacitor parallel to the battery because all capacitors have some leakage and will eventually drain the battery , particularly if the bike is left standing for few days - because the capacitor connected in parallel is "always on" irrespective of the ignition switch . Plus the danger of fire if the capacitor becomes short somehow , it will short out the battery poles directly . For safely using a capacitor in parallel to the battery , we have to figure out a way to connect it so that it becomes connected & disconnected through the ignition switch , I feel . Isn't it ? Sorry for finding this super post so late .

                Comment

                • #9
                  Re: DIY: Motorcycle Battery Eliminator

                  Originally posted by Pinaki View Post
                  Ashwin , I think it's not a good idea to connect a capacitor parallel to the battery because all capacitors have some leakage and will eventually drain the battery , particularly if the bike is left standing for few days - because the capacitor connected in parallel is "always on" irrespective of the ignition switch . Plus the danger of fire if the capacitor becomes short somehow , it will short out the battery poles directly . For safely using a capacitor in parallel to the battery , we have to figure out a way to connect it so that it becomes connected & disconnected through the ignition switch , I feel . Isn't it ? Sorry for finding this super post so late .
                  Perhaps a relay. Just like Bajaj Discover 125 St headlight relay which cut off battery supply of headlight if engine shuts off.
                  But i highly suspect capacitor is good idea as it might blast if bike was ridden in day with minimal electrical use for long distance due to overcharging,

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Re: DIY: Motorcycle Battery Eliminator

                    Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
                    Better I'll generalize.

                    Motorcycles with DC Ignition:

                    Your CDI is DC powered hence without a battery or a properly functioning one your motorcycle wont start(RE) or would not run right(ZMA).

                    In these motorcycles using a Capacitor alone would enable the motorcycle to run without a battery and a capacitor connected parallel to the battery would enable the motorcycle to run irrespective of the battery's condition, plus being more efficient it would ensure that your electrical's work better.

                    Motorcycle with AC Ignition:

                    Your CDI is powered by the alternator so irrespective of what the condition of the battery is your motorcycle would run but your electrical's still depend on the battery so without a battery your electrical's wont work and with a compromised battery they wont work well, so using a standalone capacitor would ensure that everything would without the need for a battery, and if by chance you have a self starter and depend on the battery then you can connect the capacitor parallel to the battery so again it would ensure than your other electrical's work more efficiently.

                    Thumb rule:

                    If you don't have a kick starter then connect the capacitor parallel to the battery so that if your motorcycle is DC then in the event of the battery crapping out you can still push start your motorcycle or if your motorcycle is AC then your electrical's would work more efficiently even when the battery is not at its optimum.

                    If you only have a kick starter then scrap the battery and go for a capacitor, irrespective of whether AC or DC your motorcycle will run better as long as you've done the math.

                    If you have both a self starter and kick starter then it is still better to have a capacitor for either of the above stated reasons.
                    My 2004 Pulsar is a kick start and does not have a battery at the moment. So going by your suggestion, just a capacitor would work. I will try it on Friday.

                    Comment

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