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Hi everyone. I read all the posts on this forum I could find about chain cleaning and lubing and thought I should also post my procedure. (I'm still in the process of finding the best method so any corrections, suggestions or advices are more than welcome.)
I clean the chain once every month. I have an OKS chain cleaner/lube which I use once every 15 days so as to not let the dirt accumulate.
Here are a list of things that I carry for the chain in addition to the things I carry to clean the bike.
1. Small sponge
2. Kerosene
3. EP 90 gear oil, and EP 140 gear oil. (I use it alternately, as in, the first month will be EP 90, and the second time it would be EP 140. I'll explain my reason for it in a bit)
4. A small lint free cloth.
5. Used toothbrush.
6. A bowl, mug or any sort of container for the Kerosene (Optional)
7. Lots of patience.
Here's what I do..
1. I first pour about 100 ml of kerosene into a bowl.
2. I use the sponge to apply kerosene to the entire chain, and front and rear sprokets. Make sure they're properly wet. This also clears most of the dirt on the chain because the sponge absorbs it quite well. I also clean the underside of the chain guard and the inside of the front sprocket cover.
3. Use the toothbrush to scrub off all the dirt accumulated between the links. I thoroughly scrub it from link to link. It's time consuming but worth the effort.
4. Wipe it all off with the lint free cloth.
5. Put a little bit more kerosene and then I start the bike and put it into gear while on the main stand. I take it to the 6th gear so that all the loose dirt, excess kerosene and other particles fly off.
6. After this I wipe the chain again and let it dry.
(While I wait for it to dry, I polish my bike which takes about 30 minutes)
7. I start the engine again and put it in gear. I let it run for a few minutes so that the chain becomes warm again.
8. Gear oil. Now I'll explain why I use it alternately. I read on many formums and threads that EP 90 is thinner so it goes off the chain sooner. And I read that EP 140 is thicker so although it stays longer, it attracts more dirt. So why both? Well, since the EP 90 is thinner, it is able to lubricate the O-rings better making it a smoother experience. The EP 140 being thicker, doesn't lubricate the O-rings that well, but on the plus side, it doesn't even let any dirt get through. So I use it alternately to provide an overall protection to the chain.
To apply the gear oil, I have a small canister found in local hardware stores for around 60 bucks. I lubricate the chain till it's fully wet, but not dripping.
9. I leave it overnight and let it seep into the O-rings. (Works better if the chain is warm. It soaks the gear oil more efficiently and you'll see less oil on the floor next morning.)
10. Enjoy the ride with a mad grin on my face.
I clean the chain once every month. I have an OKS chain cleaner/lube which I use once every 15 days so as to not let the dirt accumulate.
Here are a list of things that I carry for the chain in addition to the things I carry to clean the bike.
1. Small sponge
2. Kerosene
3. EP 90 gear oil, and EP 140 gear oil. (I use it alternately, as in, the first month will be EP 90, and the second time it would be EP 140. I'll explain my reason for it in a bit)
4. A small lint free cloth.
5. Used toothbrush.
6. A bowl, mug or any sort of container for the Kerosene (Optional)
7. Lots of patience.
Here's what I do..
1. I first pour about 100 ml of kerosene into a bowl.
2. I use the sponge to apply kerosene to the entire chain, and front and rear sprokets. Make sure they're properly wet. This also clears most of the dirt on the chain because the sponge absorbs it quite well. I also clean the underside of the chain guard and the inside of the front sprocket cover.
3. Use the toothbrush to scrub off all the dirt accumulated between the links. I thoroughly scrub it from link to link. It's time consuming but worth the effort.
4. Wipe it all off with the lint free cloth.
5. Put a little bit more kerosene and then I start the bike and put it into gear while on the main stand. I take it to the 6th gear so that all the loose dirt, excess kerosene and other particles fly off.
6. After this I wipe the chain again and let it dry.
(While I wait for it to dry, I polish my bike which takes about 30 minutes)
7. I start the engine again and put it in gear. I let it run for a few minutes so that the chain becomes warm again.
8. Gear oil. Now I'll explain why I use it alternately. I read on many formums and threads that EP 90 is thinner so it goes off the chain sooner. And I read that EP 140 is thicker so although it stays longer, it attracts more dirt. So why both? Well, since the EP 90 is thinner, it is able to lubricate the O-rings better making it a smoother experience. The EP 140 being thicker, doesn't lubricate the O-rings that well, but on the plus side, it doesn't even let any dirt get through. So I use it alternately to provide an overall protection to the chain.
To apply the gear oil, I have a small canister found in local hardware stores for around 60 bucks. I lubricate the chain till it's fully wet, but not dripping.
9. I leave it overnight and let it seep into the O-rings. (Works better if the chain is warm. It soaks the gear oil more efficiently and you'll see less oil on the floor next morning.)
10. Enjoy the ride with a mad grin on my face.
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