Topic Approved.

i think you are talkin about the air filter. Its supposed to have a circular cover on top, tightened by three screws, that hold the filter in place and ensure that the air which reaches the engine, must go thru the filter.

For re starting a bike standing for 2 years from the front to the rear i would recommend the following work -

- Front rim inspection for rust
- Front brake service
- Replace brake oil if you feel the disc is biting too much or too suddenly.
- Inspection of speedometer cable, and lubrication with grease, also check speedometer operation.
- Front fork oil replace, and seal checked for leakage, or might as well replace seals, not that expensive.
- Headlight,indicator, horn etc check for proper operation, and rusting of headlight reflector if any.
- Tank inspection for any rust or foreign particles ( generally just get it removed and washed with petrol and drain all the dirty petrol so that its clean from inside.
- replace/clean petrol T ( the point where you select main and reserve from )
- change battery , and check fuse etc.
- Brake point check ( both hand lever, and foot operated)

Engine checks and work

- Dismantle and clean carburettor
- Change all oils ( engine, clutch , gear )
- Check primary drive for correct tension, and also the condition of the clutch plate and clutch housing springs ( replace springs if necessary).
- Clutch cable for proper operation, Replace cable if squeaking too much.
- Tappet check for proper clearance, and also decompression operation.
- Get the engine washed inside out with petrol, before putting fresh oil, That will help flush out any carbon deposits, gummy deposits etc.
- Change spark plug, and check cap and ignition cable for cuts/cracks etc.
- If your bike is point ignition, as shown in pic, then check point, clean and get re adjusted.


Further -

- Check seat for cover quality and softness
- Check the rubber mounts of the side panels and covers ( generally they become brittle and create more vibrations.
- Check silencer mounting plate, and fitting to head of the engine. Should be ok.
- Check rear rim/tyre etc.
- Brake service should be carried out, lubricate cams, change brake shoe spring, Brake return spring if rear brake is spongy.
- check chain, get washed with kerosene, and then re lubricate with engine oil
- Rear tail light etc.

In addition, the condition of the tyres should be ok, as in no cracks developing etc.

This all should cost you about 4-5k maximum, but will ensure that your bullet is good to go again!!

Thanks for that list of stuff. It was very helpful. I have done alot of that myself and had the repair shop do some.

I'll get around to asking how to do certain things later.

I have taken a picture of the RH toolbox:



The large hole in the centre is obviously where the air comes in and goes through the filter. The small hole in the top right is where the air leaves. The large hole with a cross is the one that I am worried about. It allows air to come in without it going through the filter. Should I block it up somehow?

^^ nope, there has to be a cover plate, with a long bolt, that tightens up around the airfilter, and covers the top of the airfilter. So the air enters from the centre hole, goes thru the filter, and then enters the carb.

Go to any local spares shop for bullets, and ask for the air filter holder plate with bolt. or just show them the bike, they will know what to install.

It will/should be a circular plastic disc with a bolt in the centre.

Sorry, I haven't been clear enough. I have the cover plate and the bolt.

Here is a picture:



Air is supposed to come in hole 1 and go through the filter, then it should leave through hole 3 (as the green line shows). However if you look at hole 2, you can see that it allows air to come straight into the toolbox without going through the filter and then leaves through hole 3 (as the blue line shows). I think it is obvious that I need to block up hole 2, but I wanted to check before I did just in case it wasn't the right thing to do.

^^ I guess the air moves to the carb through the hole 2. If you take a peek behind the RH toolbox, you'll see a thick pipe going into the rectangular box adjacent to it (what is it, btw??) and a pipe in turn goes from this box into the carb.

Hole 3 has a narrower pipe plastic pipe coming out of it which disappears somewhere at the back.

If we go according to your theory, then the rectangular box must be airfilter.

PS: The Heading is misleading, this is Bullet 500 LB and not classic. I thought C5 already got into problems, was curious to see what it was!

There is no pipe attached to hole 2. So this must be the problem then, there should be a pipe attached to hole to that goes to the rectangular box?

What is the Bullet 500 LB and how is it different to the classic?

EDIT: I just checked the bike and there is indeed no pipe connected to hole 2. It's hard to see in the picture in my first post, but there is a small cylindrical thing in between the chrome battery cover and the left hand toolbox. A small pipe goes from hole 3 to this cylindrical thing. There also doesn't seem to be any way to connect a pipe to the black rectangular box.

Anyway please forget about this problem. It is getting confusing and hard to explain, I will get a mechanic to look at this at some point in time.

Problem 2. The horn.

Does anyone know how the horn is supposed to be wired up? I have tried following the wiring diagram in the owners manual but I still can't work it out. There is currently a purple wire connecting the horn to the horn button. But I don't see how the horn button can work without being connected to 2 wires, the point of a button is to make a connection between the 2 wires.

Can anyone explain to me how it should be wired up? Should there be 2 wires connected to the button?

Also I should test the horn itself to see if it is actually working, I tried connecting it straight up to the battery but that didn't do anything. Is there some other way I can test to see if the horn is working?

My bad...I noticed wrong. The Hole 2 seems to be the air intake, as it opens up to nowhere. Hole 1 is the one from where the pipe comes out and connects to the rectangular box. Hole 3 is joined to a cylindrical case on the other side of the bike, beside the battery and behind LH toolbox. My mech told me the cylinder holds excess engine oil (don't know how true it is, but oil leaks around that part at most of the times).

So basically, the hole with the cross (2) should remain as it is: open.

Ok that does clear things up some more, however as far as I know, there is no pipe connected to hole 1. So I guess I have to get the mechanic to fix it up by putting in a pipe. What is inside the black rectangular box? Is there a filter in there that I should clean?

Also any ideas as to how I can test the horn and how it is supposed to be correctly wired up?

ah! my bad, its a older 500, hence you named it as classic. LB is the machismo 500 which was launched later a.k.a LB - Lean Burn Engine

The Classic I was referring to was the Q5 - Royal Enfield Classic - The Classic is Reborn

Can you please post a pic of the area between the RH box and rectangular one? I hope I can point out the pipe (its thicker than a pipre, rather a hose).

As for the horn, mine(stock) has two wires attached to it. If your is having a single wire, then other terminal could be grounded. Damn, electricals...never liked it.

EDIT: If horn is working, use another battery and connect the positive directly to the terminal with the wire.

I checked the bike, there is only one very small hose leaving the RH toolbox. My father mentioned something about not having it connected to the emmission control thing or something. Anyway I'll get a mechanic to look at it.

As for the horn, the horn itself has a red and a purple wire attached to it. The horn button only has a purple. But there is a red wire that goes up into that section so maybe I have to solder the red wire to the other end of the button.

Yes, it's a 2004 model. What is the correct title? I call it Classic because it's not a Machismo or any of those other ones. It's just the straight 500 and as far as I know it's the closest to the original Enfields.

Sorry if its against the rules to double post, but no one is replying anymore.

I've decided not to do any more work on the bike until I have taken it to a good repair shop and had it fixed up. From there I'll begin to do other work myself, but right now there are just too many things to do.

Now I need some help with prices. I'm planning to go to Delhi soon and I need approximate prices for certain parts.

How many rupees for:

Accelerator, Clutch and Decompression Cables?
Air/Petrol Filters or any other filters I might need?
Horn?

Thanks