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**TheDeadRider** · 06-12-2010, 09:36 AM

Sorry I took time replying!

Originally posted by ken cool View Post

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Welcome to Xbhp!

Thanks!

Originally posted by aargee View Post

Welcome to XBHP, appreciate if you can post an intro

Will do, but i'm confused where to. Perhaps in the "Who are you?" section?

Originally posted by aargee View Post

Few of the things that I can think of apart from regular stuff that you may be aware of
- Leads to increase vibration sooner & cause rattling that causes some of the loose bolt/nuts to fall off
- Causes wear & tear sooner (valves, sprockets & chain, timing chain, rings, connecting rod & bearings) than anticipated time
- Results in high maintainence

Changing oil more often does burn your pocket & at the same time gives a little peace that the cooling is better at the same time ensure that the oil pump is in very good state

I'd heard the same too. I was worring about how soon this may happen, and if happens a lot in case of rev-happy machines like the R15.

Originally posted by abhichotu.abhi View Post

Yes, it was a case with older bikes. But, modern day bikes are much capable of doing high RPM rides. And especially a Liquid cooled, forged piston bike can easily do that. It doesnot matter's at which RPM you are riding untill you are under acceptable limits, but 'How one reaches a particular RPM' is the real culprit. Get easy on throttle while approaching higher speeds, donot gun the throttle like trigger of AK47 that keeps on shooting.

Thanks a lot for the information, I agree with you! I've always felt that heavy gunning while not matching the load with the rpm causes "idled" rpm, which does not deliver to the wheels, but only heats up the engine.

Originally posted by svjhonda View Post

I remember what Joel had said about the R15 engine. Although it revs high compared to our standard engine, it still is a very safe setup. And Yamaha has done a clever job restricting it to 10,000 rpm.

As far as I know, its a machine. Any machine, run slow, at 50% load can run longer, more consistently and more reliably than one run at 85% load. Agreed, motorcycles are made that way, especially the r15. But in general terms, yes. Riding hard all the time is more bearing upon the engine than riding easy.

But that shouldn't stop you. Even with hard riding, the engine is capable enough to handle all the abuse (speaking of the R15 here). And as per Yamaha the block requires no re-boring throughout the lifetime of the engine (such is the hardness of the cast).
__________________

And that's why I bought the R15

Originally posted by princesirohi View Post

i have a pulsar 150 dts-i UG3, my riding style is extremely fast and my riding consists of 90% highway and 10% city. i had to change my block piston at 25000 KMS had to redo crackshaft etc. etc. had changes my rear wheel bearing twice till now (60000 KMS) had changed rear sprocket bearing 3-4 times till date, even though i do regular servicing every month at every 2000 KMS. the point is that high speed riding means high maintenance. and most P150 & P180 riders here on xbhp with my style of riding will agree to what i have just said...and at every servicing when i drain the used oil, only 500 ml is left of original 1000 ml that i pour in at the time of servicing.

That's interesting. That last part about the oil is scary. Extensive damage could be done to an er...under-oiled engine by hard riding!

I change my oil personally every 1500km with the semi-synthetic oil I get at the yamaha spare parts shop

**TheDeadRider** · 06-12-2010, 09:44 AM

Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View Post

Proper warming up of the engine also a factor in engine wear? Most engine wear and tear happens within the first few minutes of starting the engine.

Originally posted by Xenologik View Post

Yup as the oil is more viscous when and takes time to circulate around the engine, esp the head of the cylinder. I minimum let it idle for a minute and in colder conditions another minute at least before starting off, keeping the speed and acceleration mild enough for 3-4 kms at least before speeding up. Just start-n-go will certainly hamper engine life a lot.

I did not know that. But I warm up my engine for 5 minutes everyday in the morning anyway. I've also heard that fuel-injected bikes should not be idled for too long, is this true?

Originally posted by Xenologik View Post

If one notices, car engines last way longer than bike engines, since an average car's rpm wouldn't cross 4.5k even while on the highway, and for diesel cars the rpm is even lower. The old premier padmini which was at home about a decade ago did well over 1,50,000 kms without even a change in the piston rings, and that car wasnt really the best of the cars during that time. Rpm + vibrations is certainly the main cause of premature engine wear out.

Yes, I had noticed that. Cars last for much longer than bikes do. I had attributed the fact to a much heavier engine block, capable of handling much more stress that a motorcycle engine. But I see now that I'd missed out this fact too which will also matter a lot.

**abhimanyu31** · 06-12-2010, 02:36 PM

Originally posted by vikram kumar View Post

Just wanted to know
whats the harm in running the engine in the same speed??
I dont understand in what way will it affect it..
can somebody please help.
Thanks

Ok, here it is simply.... the faster you rev an engine the more you will stress every part of it... I will quote the Superbike magazine... "Most road bikes have rev limiters which stop you damaging them, but even so, riding near the red line a lot of the time will wear an engine far faster than short shifting and keeping the the revs low"!!!

**TheDeadRider** · 06-12-2010, 04:58 PM

Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View Post

Ok, here it is simply.... the faster you rev an engine the more you will stress every part of it... I will quote the Superbike magazine... "Most road bikes have rev limiters which stop you damaging them, but even so, riding near the red line a lot of the time will wear an engine far faster than short shifting and keeping the the revs low"!!!

Absolutely. If you're ready to rev, you're also ready to pay

**Xenologik** · 06-12-2010, 08:10 PM

Originally posted by TheDeadRider View Post

I did not know that. But I warm up my engine for 5 minutes everyday in the morning anyway. I've also heard that fuel-injected bikes should not be idled for too long, is this true?

No, that's not quite true. Fi engines just dont need to be revved during idling like carbed bikes are. for example, the P220 dts-fi's system will automatically manage the fuel during idling, cause they have all sorts of sensors which can also sense whether the engine is stalling or not and feed the fuel accordingly. On the other hand there's no such thing in a carb-fed engine therefore the common procedure is to activate the choke so the engine wont stall during cold starts. However the time required for an fi bike to warm up is less, its better to ride around in an fi bike than let it idle.

Anyhow idling for too long is bad, since the engine runs without a load while on idle. If the engine isn't stalling when giving throttle then i'd rather drive off and ride slowly. But most of the carbed bikes need sufficient warming or the engine tends to stall.

Originally posted by abhimanyu31 View Post

Ok, here it is simply.... the faster you rev an engine the more you will stress every part of it... I will quote the Superbike magazine... "Most road bikes have rev limiters which stop you damaging them, but even so, riding near the red line a lot of the time will wear an engine far faster than short shifting and keeping the the revs low"!!!

Rev limiters limit the bike to the maximum rev the engine can handle without destroying itself. Since all 4 stroke engines have intake and exhaust valves which open /close all the time, after a certain rpm the valves will 'float' , which means that the valves will not close fully. This is because valves are pushed open by the camshaft, but during close the valve is pushed back by the spring. At high rpms the difference becomes evident and the spring is not able to push the valve back as fast it'd normally just because it doesnt get the time.

Due to which the piston itself might hit the valve(which is still open) and destroy the engine. Rev limiters limit the engine's rpm to the point where the engine can safely operate.

That does not mean that the engine will not wear out. Completely depending on the materials / casting of the engine parts, the wear will be accordingly. The engine won't die out too soon, but suppose it'd last 10k kms instead 40k.

Here's a website where a lot of detail can be learned about engines in general. Carbible-Engines

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