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One more question?
Are both the beams on ur 220 permanent? If no,how did u manage the startup problem?
Cheers.
One more question?
Are both the beams on ur 220 permanent? If no,how did u manage the startup problem?
Cheers.
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I have learnt my ABCs*.Have you??
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Permanent as in,do both beams stay on at all times? I'm asking cuz in d 220 if one selects d high beam the low beam goes off and vice-versa. What mods did u do for the same? And also,can d bike take a load of twin 55W HIDs?Originally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
I was thinking of getting a HID for the low beam and the normal Halogen for the high beam so that the HID startup issue will be eliminated. So d mod required will be that the low beam doesnt go off even when we select the high beam.
One more mod I wanna do is that the lights should stay on even when the engine's not running just like in the ZMAs and FZs
I hope I'm not burdening u with too much questions
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Sorry for asking this but is Raylux a reputed brand? And is Philips available for bikes. Or I could buy a car kit and share it with my friend.I have learnt my ABCs*.Have you??
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Answers in Bold.Originally posted by rishi500 View PostPermanent as in,do both beams stay on at all times? I'm asking cuz in d 220 if one selects d high beam the low beam goes off and vice-versa. What mods did u do for the same? And also,can d bike take a load of twin 55W HIDs?
Yes, both beam work simultaneously. Basically in low beam mode only, low beam glows, but in high beam both beam work. The mod is described athttp://www.xbhp.com/talkies/desi-bik...m-hid-mod.html
Bike should not be forced with two 55W HIDs, instead two 35W HIDs which makes about 70W of max load.
Anyway, 35W HID is good enough, and 55W doesn't make a huge difference.
I was thinking of getting a HID for the low beam and the normal Halogen for the high beam so that the HID startup issue will be eliminated. So d mod required will be that the low beam doesnt go off even when we select the high beam.
In that case load will be more, much more than the stock consumption, but can be done.
One more mod I wanna do is that the lights should stay on even when the engine's not running just like in the ZMAs and FZs
I hope I'm not burdening u with too much questions
Questioning is fine with me
That's not possible, unless we make bypass of BCU, or provide separate power to bulbs directly from battery,which is not recommended. In 220, it's a function embedded in BCU.
Thanks
Raylux is a reputed brand, and is Indian. The quality as good as any other OEMs, however I had problem with ballasts and twice got it replaced under warranty. For 220, best is to buy a car kit not a bike HID kit. You can either install the pair or split it up between your friends.Originally posted by rishi500 View PostBeen There, Done That; Better!Comment
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Ok.So the 'always on' mod is out since It'll involve fiddling with the BCU. So I'll stick with twin 35W HIDs and the twin HID beam mod u mentioned.Originally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
How can the pass light problem be overcome? I mean inspite of HIDs some reluctant n stupid drivers need to be given a pass light to overtake them.
One more thing,how much will a Philips car HID 6000k cost? And if I'm not mistaken u bought a car kit right?I have learnt my ABCs*.Have you??
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To overcome pass light problem, I usually use "Twin" beam on highways, that is high beam always on. So when a pass light is needed, I just use to hi/low beam switch to switch on/off the high beam, where as the low beam remains.Originally posted by rishi500 View Post
Which basically means that once the Bulb is heated up, you can switch off and one, without waiting to glow fully. I know it's stupid, but it works.
And generally even when you switch on a Cold HID bulb, for the very first second it flashes at full brightness, good enough to give a flash.
A Phillips car HID with 2 X 35W kit, will be around 7K. And yeah I bought a Raylux Car kit.Been There, Done That; Better!Comment
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Re: HIDs
Ok.So if I use HIDs that way as a pass-light will it cause any damage in the long term? Have you experienced anythin till date?Originally posted by rahuldevnath View PostTo overcome pass light problem, I usually use "Twin" beam on highways, that is high beam always on. So when a pass light is needed, I just use to hi/low beam switch to switch on/off the high beam, where as the low beam remains.
Which basically means that once the Bulb is heated up, you can switch off and one, without waiting to glow fully. I know it's stupid, but it works.
And generally even when you switch on a Cold HID bulb, for the very first second it flashes at full brightness, good enough to give a flash.
A Phillips car HID with 2 X 35W kit, will be around 7K. And yeah I bought a Raylux Car kit.
And have you heard about P4 and P8 brand of HIDs? Are they any superior to Raylux/Philips?
ThanksI have learnt my ABCs*.Have you??
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It doesn't cause any problems as far as i have experienced, if the switching is fast.Originally posted by rishi500 View Post
And I haven't heard about P4 and P8.. can you provide a linkBeen There, Done That; Better!Comment
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Rahul, would love to share some info about the cooling off period of an HID bulb. Before next ignition, the bulb requires a cooling off time such as 15-20 secs, will enhance the bulb life.Originally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
Pls read the following:
Although it produces 5% of its output when first ignited, the HID light requires a few seconds (usually 15-20) to come up to full output. Also, if power to the lamp is lost or turned off, the arc tube must cool to a given temperature before the arc can be re-struck and light produced. Xenon-Bulbs HID lights only require a brief (15-30 second) cooling period before they can be re-lit.
HID Faq - Xenon Bulbs
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Ok. So there's no problem in switching them.Originally posted by rahuldevnath View Post
As for the P4 and P8 brands I'd seen the ad in a car magazine. I'll check if they have a website. BTW, I remember having seen the P4 Xenon stall at the AutoCar Performance Show every year.I have learnt my ABCs*.Have you??
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Yeah Sajit, you are right. I know that the HID requires a few seconds to cool off. But I had used my Chinese make H4 HID (First Generation) for long with this procedure. And for long mean- intensively! I realized that if the on-off is instant, it doesn't adversely affect It. That 3 year old HID still works flawlessly compared to my Raylux, which required twice replacement.Originally posted by sajjt View Post
I would prefer Bosch, Phillips or better save some bucks and go for better quality Chinese make.Originally posted by rishi500 View PostBeen There, Done That; Better!Comment
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May be u r one of the lucky ones to have that. HID bulbs will last 3 times longer than halogens, and if u take care of them properly, u can make sure that its VFM. Pls note that even halogens hardly needs replacements now a days, my P was running with stock 35W for 2 yrs, 55/60W for another 2.5 years and last one 90/100 for 6 months, nothing happened all in good condition still. We may not notice the life span is getting short with these.Originally posted by rahuldevnath View PostYeah Sajit, you are right. I know that the HID requires a few seconds to cool off. But I had used my Chinese make H4 HID (First Generation) for long with this procedure. And for long mean- intensively! I realized that if the on-off is instant, it doesn't adversely affect It. That 3 year old HID still works flawlessly compared to my Raylux, which required twice replacement.
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BTW there's also a momentary off/on of the bulb in H4 HIDs when shifting from low to high and vice versa.. isn't it? So basically I just doing Hi/Low pretty fast on the same bulb.Originally posted by sajjt View PostMay be u r one of the lucky ones to have that. HID bulbs will last 3 times longer than halogens, and if u take care of them properly, u can make sure that its VFM. Pls note that even halogens hardly needs replacements now a days, my P was running with stock 35W for 2 yrs, 55/60W for another 2.5 years and last one 90/100 for 6 months, nothing happened all in good condition still. We may not notice the life span is getting short with these.
The same principle applies to the H7s in 220, when both bulb are lit.
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Good quality Bixenon Telescopic kits will not have this. Low Beam stays on always and the solenoid makes the other part. Why its like that? Its for the bulb life 4 sure. My kit was not having this feature but I bypassed for the same. If u maintain it properly u'll get its full life span, else u'll end up premature bulb, the worst part is u wont get the bulb alone so easily. But now a days very least are bothered about durabilityOriginally posted by rahuldevnath View PostBTW there's also a momentary off/on of the bulb in H4 HIDs when shifting from low to high and vice versa.. isn't it? So basically I just doing Hi/Low pretty fast on the same bulb.
The same principle applies to the H7s in 220, when both bulb are lit.
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