Query Approved.

Yes the sprockets from the 220 FI will work wonders. I am using them on my 2008 P180UG3 [ the one with the digital speedometer and all] and the bike is more cruising friendly!
You will HAVE to change the chain and the front sprocket for this mod too as they come in a set and the chain and the sprockets from the 220FI are thicker and the pitch also differs.
It costed me INR 1020 in MUMBAI. The tooth ratio is 14/37 for the 220FI sprockets.

Dude, can i use it in 2007 ug3 150cc ??

Because , Once i get the red line (couple of times) , after i slow down , i can hear the chain screeching on the chain guard .... or some kind of that noise... Does this help ??

yes you can.

Thanks a lot pavanchirmade,
Ya 37/14 = 2.64 ratio will be perfect. I guess my current setup is 44/15 or 43/15 not sure what.
But my bike is the one with Analog meters and alloy wheels and Engine kill switch(Not sure what UG it is called). I believe Bajaj has 2 different types of rear sprockets, one with 6 holes for the older than 2006 models and 4 holes for the ones after 2006 models. I am not sure which one mine is.

Since mine has a full chain cover I cant even find out unless I remove it. I believe the P220 sprocs are 4 holes so if mine is also 4 holes then I wont have any issue. But if mine is 6 holes then I guess it wont fit mine.

Anyways I try opening the chain cover and update you guys.

Yes the UG3's are directly compatible with the 220's sprocket kit. just that as the swing arm length is lesser on the 150 UG3 and the 180 UG3 exactly three links need to be removed from the chain for a perfect fit. Get rid if the chain cover if going for this kit as it adds unnecessary noise.



Well I don't know about your bike. But the 220 rear sprocket has 4 mounting holes. You will have to change the rear wheel hub for the sprocket swap. Also since this will be an o ring chain, that means you can get rid of the chain cover and install the half chain cover from the 220

@pavan and xionite:

Any idea if the 220 Dts-i or even FI rear sprocket are direct fit to Pulsar 180 UG4. The wheelbase of both the bikes differs only by 5mm.

So regardless of whether my bike is 6 mounting holes or 4 mounting holes if I just change the wheel hub, will I be able to fit the P220 sprockets to my bike? Is the sprocket fitted to the wheel hub?

Also is it necesary to change from full chain guard to half chain guard if it is o-ring type? I kind of like the full chain guard as it keeps the chain clean, relatively.

Thanks again.

Hi Pawan,

Just opened the chain cover and saw that it is a 4 hole sprocket. Do I need to change the rear wheel Hub in this case, to fix the P220 sprockets and chain?

Yes they are a direct fit to the UG4 with no need of removal of chain links. But the UG4 will lose low end massively if the 220FI sprockets or the 220F sprockets are installed.

Just go for the 220FI sprocket kit then, it is a direct fit to a 4hole hub.
Aren't any aftermarket sprockets available in singapore? I have seen the Indonesian pulsars and man they can mod their Pulsars!

Thanks Pavan,

Here almost all pulsarians have changed to Sinnob sprockets and chain.

sinnob sprocket gear

Costs like 100 SGD +shipping and installation another 25$.

I dont really want to spend that much and just want to keep the bike as stock as possible.

BTW, Singapore Pulsarians are not too far behind as far as mods are concerned.

You can find us having fun here

[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

Cheers,
Revhappy

Will the change of sprocket result in High speed in low rpm ?? Currently my bike goes 60 above only at 5k rpm....

Yes, if you reduce the rear sprocket size it will result in tall gearing i.e. increased top-end (speed@rpm) and lesser rpm. Vice-versa for the opposite.

Yes it will.
See, for a chain drive, there is a term called Speed ratio, or the final drive ratio in our bikes. It is dependent on or rather it is a ratio of the number of teeth on the driving sprocket to the driven sprocket. This ratio indicates at what speed of the driving sprocket, the driven sprocket will rotate. For example:
The stock P180UG3 has 15 teeth on the front sprocket and 44 teeth on the rear. The ratio works out to be 15/44 = 0.3409. Here since the front sprocket is connected to the engine, it is the driving sprocket. The 0.3409 shows that the rear sprocket rotates at an rpm which is 0.3409 of the front sprocket's RPM.
This can also be calculated the other way round as in teeth on driven sprocket/teeth on driving sprocket where this ratio comes to be 2.934.

So by this relation, if you reduce the teeth on the front sprocket, you will gain more acceleration at the cost of the top end and if you increase teeth on the front sprocket you will gain top end sacrificing on acceleration.

For the rear sprocket the logic is exactly opposite in nature. If you increase teeth on the rear sprocket you will get more acceleration at the cost of the top end and if you reduce the number of teeth on the rear you will gain more top end but acceleration will be poorer.

For city use in bumper to bumper traffic, a short ratio is recommended wherein you have more acceleration than top speed as that is what is necessary in city riding. For highway use and touring a taller ratio is recommended as you will get a better top end which is needed there.

The engine is stressed when the ratio is short as it revs at higher RPMs for lower speeds whereas the engine is much relaxed with a taller ratio as the engine RPM is kept low..