it can be done and its a fairly easy mod the left and right alloy bracket costs approx 650 or 750 each , then i think you will have to buy the foot rests and gear and brake pedal assemblies , any reputed mechanic can get the job done , sorry no pics of the mod done

Hi Pavan,

I have a Pulsar 150UG3 model. I'm a little interested about the new back-step rearset installation on my motorcycle. (if its not too deep on the pocket)

Can you please let me know whether i can get this mod done. Is it worth it? what all parts will be needed and their prices. I looked around in the forum and found that this mod renders the kick rod useless and also the bracket of the existing exhaust would have nothing to hold onto if the new rearsets are installed. How to go about with this problem and the kick rod problem?

How is the brake pedal fixed with the new rearsets? The brake lever position is not even close to the P200/180's brake lever. The gear lever can have the same connected link setup as in P200/180 but what about the brakes? How does that work?

Can you also share some pics of your motorcycle with the new rearsets and how you worked around these problems.

Thanks a lot in advance

My Tappets get loose often now.....

kb i buy that...

the stock gearing ratio of p180 is 2.80 (as per the manual) my p180 came with 15/43 sprokets which gives a ratio of roughly 2.87 p200s sprokets are 14/38 which gives a ratio of 2.71 i recommended the p200 set up to pavanchirmade as he was running the sprokets from p220fi which are 14/37 and gives a ratio of approx 2.64 which reduces torque in higher gears drastically

read up on sproketing else where in the forum your concept on sproketing is wrong consider this 2.80 (15/42) is stock ratio if you want more acceleration you will go for say (15/43) 2.87 and if you need more top speed you should go for 2.71(14/38) In simple words use the gearing ratio to determine whether you will get better acceleration or top speed not the number of teeth ( as a thumb rule you can say that any ratio which is greater than stock will give you better acceleration and a lower one will give better top end .......)

as for your casual thought 47/16 ( 2.9375) is roughly equal to your stock of (2.933) infact the above gearing is almost same as stock with hardly any gain in performance from stock

Kb: 14/38 from 15/44 would be really drastic on the bad side buddy.... p180 on stock claims 2.9333 as gearing ratio... and i feel from a friends experience that from 15 to 14 and 44 to 38 would seem bad..
15->14 less delivery of power higher rpms..
44->38 this driving gear supports power at higher rpm...
For the 180's gear arrangement...
So this might hamper the acceleration too..

so as a casual thought 47/16 > 2.9375 would be good. Like engine might be a bit more relaxed than stock setup at higher rpms... cruising would be much more good... acceleration would be hampered a bit which i think partially would be compromised by the increased tooth in the receiving end, which might receive the drive in the same stock way...???

p200s 14/ 38 should be spot on for you

I never had the kicker. I had got rid of it right when I got rearsets installed. So never tried.
Non negotiated acceleration but better top end needs some serious engine mods and sprocketting alone will not do. You will HAVE to sacrifice acceleration to get more top end. Trust me its no fun. Acceleration, even a slight dip in it will bother you a lot. I know it bothered me a lot. There were many times when I thought of going back to stock sprocket setup. But I would have to buy a new one. So didn't go through.

BTW the FI sprocket kit that I installed is good for cruising. The mileage is good too. The torque in higher RPMs in the 5th gear is insufficient though.
Gonna do some justice to the sprockets by something very soon

Hey forgot to mention...

I still have the kicker on, but am not using it and no decompressor has been incorporated...
Will this be a barrier in any way?

Pavan may be am not satisfied yet with it.... but defnitely i can feel the surge... and to be more precise i can feel the difference in 5000-7000 rpm range....

Suggest me a sprocket buddy.... can i change the front 15 with 16 or 17, and a change from 44 to 47?.... as of now am just planning to change just the front.
Stock 44/15 > 2.9333
47/16 > 2.9375
47/17 > 2.7647

If 38/14 > 2.714 doesnt work this mite....?

Mileage under sane riding is 42 which is the max I've ever got. Worst mileage is 38 something. I don't exactly understand what problem you are facing.

Now i got it adjusted... now it sounds fine... will need to check on the long/high speed run...

But, buddy would it be better to change to 220 springs.. i thought the springs would be the same..
Or should i try it if i find it again loose..

You can't get performance and mileage....without drastic mods of higher CC and compression,port shaping etc., which are not for street running.Check if your valves are floating..ie., the valves have weak springs and so is not able close fully and starts to float at high RPMs. fit P 220 valve springs and see.

@pavan

No dude..... no stuttering.. can loose valves be a cause? or is it just tuning... if itz tuninng i will have to make it more richer.. uph! my mileage...!

The needle has been flying even before K&N!
are you experiencing stuttering at 8k RPM?