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Brake rotor and pad glazing in ZMA

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  • Brake rotor and pad glazing in ZMA

    i use a zma and had recently changed the brake pads to that of rtr's.after meeting with an accident, the brake rotor had to be changed. since then, the braking efficiency has deterioated.i tried sanding both rotor and pads but it is of no avail. Can someone please help!

  • #2
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    • #3
      I'm just wondering what about going back to ZMA's setup

      And what is brake rotor? You mean the caliper assy or something else?
      Skill is what keeps you on a Motorcycle
      Awareness + Skill is what keeps you out of harm's way
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      • #4







        This is what i meant. i'm not sure as to how the surface of the rotor should be(like smooth or rough).

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        • #5
          Ok, that one is the wheel disc & that looks fine to me.
          Skill is what keeps you on a Motorcycle
          Awareness + Skill is what keeps you out of harm's way
          ATGATT + Awareness + Skill means you might Live To Ride another day

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          • #6
            Originally posted by BOND_001 View Post
            [ATTACH]40133[/ATTACH]






            This is what i meant. i'm not sure as to how the surface of the rotor should be(like smooth or rough).
            The Rotor looks well, just about fine. Btw. Is that an OEM rotor that ur using or an after market part, as these days Tom, Dick & their uncle are all into automotive manufacturing & well, you just can't trust their quality which might be a culprit here.
            Whenever there is a Rainbow in the sky, I know it's u mastering the art of Cornering. U will always be remembered brother, R.I.P Arun.

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            /2001 Yamaha Rx 135 5 Speed/ 1999 Yamaha RXZ 135/ 2012 Honda Dio/ ?

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            • #7
              To repliers:

              That picture was just an example to show what he meant by 'rotor', because aargee asked. By rotor he means the disc itself. The picture is not of his bike's disc from what i understand.



              To OP:

              No need to sand the disc/rotor or the pads. That will just cause your pads to wear faster. The disc/rotor will get the finish the pads give it anyway.
              Any explanation as to why you are not using the OEM pads?
              Is the hydraulic line air free? When was it last bled?
              When was the fluid changed?
              How old is it?
              Does the lever feel spongy on operation?
              Do the pads grip the disc when brake is disengaged (even slightly)? ie does the wheel spin freely?
              Why did the disc/rotor have to be changed?
              Are there any fluid leaks?
              Is/was the disc or pad surface contaminated with fluid/oil/grease?
              Has the fluid level in the reservoir ever gone below the min level?
              Last edited by Ayson; 03-29-2011, 04:19 PM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Ayson View Post
                To repliers:

                That picture was just an example to show what he meant by 'rotor', because aargee asked. By rotor he means the disc itself. The picture is not of his bike's disc from what i understand.



                To OP:

                No need to sand the disc/rotor or the pads. That will just cause your pads to wear faster. The disc/rotor will get the finish the pads give it anyway.
                Any explanation as to why you are not using the OEM pads?
                Is the hydraulic line air free? When was it last bled?
                When was the fluid changed?
                How old is it?
                Does the lever feel spongy on operation?
                Do the pads grip the disc when brake is disengaged (even slightly)? ie does the wheel spin freely?
                Why did the disc/rotor have to be changed?
                Are there any fluid leaks?
                Is/was the disc or pad surface contaminated with fluid/oil/grease?
                Has the fluid level in the reservoir ever gone below the min level?




                Answers in order
                1.)recently (about i week)
                2.)the rotor has been installed 4-5 months back
                3.)the master cylinder had similar issues before but now the master cylinder has been rebuilt and brake lines changed and is working fine.
                4.)yes the brake pads touch the rotor slightly but is normal i believe.
                5.)no
                6.)yes, during servicing the diesel had been sprayed on the rotor one or more times

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                • #9
                  Why are you not using the OEM pads? Different pads have different, alignments and contact areas. Incorrect pad may have lesser contact area, hence lesser grip/friction.

                  Was the fluid change done properly by someone who knows how to bleed the line? Usually incorrect bleeeding is the most common problem. Air enters the line, and according to the amount, degrades the performance. Simply topping up the fluid is not enough.

                  The two steps below will help you answer the above Q.

                  Does the lever feel spongy on operation?

                  Visually it will be like it's touching, but lift the front wheel and gauge how freely the wheel spins.

                  Why did the disc/rotor have to be changed?

                  Are there any fluid leaks?

                  Is this diesel spraying done by the authorised service centre? The diesel may cause some deteriorated performance by lubing the pad-rotor. It will soon evaporate due to heat, but will leave some residue. But the important part is, the diesel will damage the seals and dust boots in the caliper. (And also the seal for your wheel bearing. And fade paint, although it may give an amazing sheen immidiately after application.)

                  Has the fluid level in the reservoir ever gone below the min level?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Ayson View Post
                    Why are you not using the OEM pads? Different pads have different, alignments and contact areas. Incorrect pad may have lesser contact area, hence lesser grip/friction.

                    Was the fluid change done properly by someone who knows how to bleed the line? Usually incorrect bleeeding is the most common problem. Air enters the line, and according to the amount, degrades the performance. Simply topping up the fluid is not enough.

                    The two steps below will help you answer the above Q.

                    Does the lever feel spongy on operation?

                    Visually it will be like it's touching, but lift the front wheel and gauge how freely the wheel spins.

                    Why did the disc/rotor have to be changed?

                    Are there any fluid leaks?

                    Is this diesel spraying done by the authorised service centre? The diesel may cause some deteriorated performance by lubing the pad-rotor. It will soon evaporate due to heat, but will leave some residue. But the important part is, the diesel will damage the seals and dust boots in the caliper. (And also the seal for your wheel bearing. And fade paint, although it may give an amazing sheen immidiately after application.)

                    Has the fluid level in the reservoir ever gone below the min level?



                    i did not have any problem with the the pads before,after changing to a new rotor(since the old one got bend in an accident)the pads and rotor since then have been performing badly.


                    Answers to 1.) and 2.)
                    the brakes were spongy before but i have repaired the master cylinder and changed the brake lines and has been bled perfectly.there was a small bush missing near the brake lever and the master cylinder piston and this was the cause of spongy brakes.

                    Is there a proper way to bed in new pads ?

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                    • #11
                      Check if the wheel moves freely or is getting held anywhere...
                      Remove the pads and check if they have a uniform wear...
                      sigpic

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                      • #12
                        Why did you sand a brand new rotor, is it original HH rotor? If the rotor is too rough as a result of sanding it can wear out the pads very quickly.
                        I bought the Ninja 250R !!.....And then i woke up :(

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                        • #13
                          i recently replaced my rear disk as my brake pedal play was adjsuted in a way that increased too much pressure and during hard braking, my rear brake got jammed. I rode my bike that way and hence the friction weared the disk.

                          1 good way to detect problem is after riding for about 30 mins using the brake generously, see if the disk gets heated really bad. Normally its gets hot but not too hot that you cant even touch it. If it does, then there is a problem.
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