Query Approved

Thanks for the approval.

People!! Some replies here too please!

Well, what exactly are you asking for?

The Pulsar has a clutch play of 2-3 mm. ie: the gap near the pivot point for the clutch lever on the handlebar, at the outermost area, should be 2-3 mm when the clutch lever is depressed and the clutch has reached the begining of the friction zone.

(The friction zone is the point just where the clutch begins to disengage when you depress the lever. When you depress the clutch there are two parts . One, where you are working against the external spring, and then, two, when the clutch springs kick in. The change is felt as a sudden but slight increase in ressistance on the lever. This point is the friction zone.)

I dont know why this should change with riding style. Any more play, and the clutch will not fully disengage when the lever is depressed, leading to hard shifts and associated problems. Any less play, and the clutch will be slightly disengaged all the time, causing slippage, leading to increased wear, and less power delivery.

It's not the number of threads that is measured to set play. It is the clearance that i mentioned above that is measured. (Some manuals measure the gap between the tip of the lever and the handle bar. There, the clearance value will be larger.) The nuts in that post you mentioned are the means to set that clearance. Large adjustments are done with those nuts, then finer adjustments are done on the lever side.

When you pull back the sheath on the end of the clutch lever, you will see the gap mentioned, and also the fine adjustment nut. If you have ever tightened the brakes on a bicycle, you will know how these nuts work. Fairly basic and easy work. If you need any more help, post back.

Alright... Got all that. Went down to the bike to try it out and what a surprise!!! The Bajaj toolkit!!!
Will have to get some more tools.

So just as an example,

When i set the bike on the center stand and put it in first gear and keep the lever depressed, if the wheel is rotating then the clutch is not fully disengaged right?

And then i need to adjust the clearance nuts to just the point where the wheels stops rotating am i correct?

And how exactly does the fine adjustment nut work?

The rotation of wheel with the clutch pressed in gear is normal for all wet clutch bikes....
It happens due to internal drag of oil.
But if the bike's tyre is on ground & bike is trying to move in first gear with the clutch pressed then only you need to adjust the clutch.
Search this topic, same is explained earlier many times in many threads
<Posted via Mobile>

I did in fact go through the other threads but didn't find what i was looking for..

And i asked the question about the wheel rotating in first gear because when i put it in first gear today.. the wheel was not rotating!

Everything's ok with your bike bro.
And the wheel may or may not rotate if the bike is in its operating temperature

Ah .. alright..

Sorry for eating up your head but can't help it since you're the only one on this thread apart from me .. \o/

Thanks a lot

Always happy to help bro....
Welcome.. To Xbhp..!

When the wheel is in rotation, like you mentioned, ie: clutch lever depressed and in gear, ask someone to stop the wheel. If the RPM drops, then you have a problem. If there is no RPM drop, that means the transmission is fully declutched.

Also, this occurs due to drag in the oil, so when oil has heated up, and lost some viscosity this should be gone.

It is caused by oil transmitting the power. In fact that is used as an actual transmission system in some powertrains, where there is no mechanical clutch. Instead oil is used to transfer power. Have a look Fluid Coupling.

If you adjust till the wheel stops, that will give you excess free play. In fact so much excess that the whole lever movement might just be play. Adjust for the friction zone, not wheel rotation.

The fine adjustment part: Loosen the lock ring (big circular nut at lever end), then turn the adjustment barrel to either direction to get desired play, then thighten the lock ring. But make sure you do large adjustments on the engine side first.

What you should look for:




This is a forum thread, not a chat room, so don't expect answers every few minutes, even though when there is a problem with one's bike minutes feel like hours.

BTW for this job, you'll need 1) combination pliers, 2) 12-13mm open ended spanner. Vehicle toolkit is for emergency use, don't expect maintainence tools in it. What tools do you find in a car tool kit?

^ Ok i got the pitcure about the oil transmitting the power..

And thanks for the parts info.. Saves me some trouble.. Now i understand why they say its better to carry an extra tool kit when going on tours.. The default toolkit is hardly what you need