Thanks guys.

Battery

Hello

One question regarding battery ratings for bike TVS Vistor GLX 125
I currently using a 60/55 watts bulb on a 2.5 AH battery with a additional regulator of 80 watts of LML scooter for headlight along with my regulator and rectifier unit

currently my setup consists of two rr units

80 watts regulator dedicated for 60/55 watts headlight only(I was unable to find a 80 watts bulb in market.After 60/55 I found 100/90 Philips rally which gave me light like a 60/55 watts bulb only hence I put back Philips Xtreme power 60/55 watts)
Second the stock rr unit for the other electricals of bike

I think that this 60/55 watts bulb is putting some load on my battery of 2.5 AH and I think that I need some more battery power.

I am thinking to upgrade to a battery of higher ratings maybe 4 AH of Bajaj XCD or a 5 AH battery of some self start bikes like Pulsar 150

My first question is that will this high rating battery do any damage to the wirings and electricals?
Secondly I would like to ask that do I need a higher capacity rr unit to charge this battery.The stock rr unit of Victor GLX 125 is of 120 watts

@ pankaj

You are using a 55/60 bulb on a 2.5 amp battery ?
Are you using the bulb in AC or in DC.

Are both of your RR units are being sourced to the battery itself ?

I assume you must be using stock electricals on battery, and using the headlight in AC directly from the coil, because 2.5 amp battery cannot support 2 amps of standard load, + 5 amps of load of your headlight.

Only one rr unit is connected to battery
The other scooter regulator of 80 watts is conected between the rr unit,the alternator and the headlight
Actually the person who did this said that
"Though the rr unit is around 120 watts and the alternator coil produces 50 watts for headlight, but it still cuts off the output beyond 35 watts for the headlight."
Hence what he did was ,he bypassed my rr unit for headlight and put a scooter regulator of 80 watts between headlight,alternator and the rr unit hence my headlight is running on a 80 watts regulator whereas my other electricals are running on the stock rr unit.
This scooter regulator is nothing but a capacitor unit which gets charged up and provides supply to my bulb

The bulb is on AC because as the rpm decreases,my bulb focus dims out
I am using this setup from past 3 years and no problem yet
Only thing is that I have to charge my battery in 6 to 8 months atleast.
Also I am using a electronic battery from master ignition called "Powercap"
This battery is also good but it is also 2.5 AH.It is light weight and only 250 gms in weight and no charging required(this battery gets charged in 30 seconds of starting the bike and till the bike is running,it charges well.Only drawback is that if the alternator coil sends a too much voltage,this battery has a relay which switches off this battery for 10 minutes)

Hence I was looking for a 4 AH/5 AH battery
But before that,I was willing to know whether any side effects for fitting a higher capacity battery and any effect on wiring of the bike because 5 AH means that almost double current will be flowing through wires

@ Pankaj

Well, if your running the bulb on AC, and using stock RR unit otherwise for the rest of electricals, there shouldn't be any issues.
As your saying that you need to change the battery every 6-8 months, there has to be something wrong with your stock rr unit that charges the battery.

Since your using single charging unit for charging the stock battery through stock coil and stock RR unit, there shouldn't be a problem.

As your query, you can use a higher amp battery, it won't cause any issues.
I am running a 9 amp battery in place of stock 2.5 amp battery in my fiero.
I am running a full DC config.
Installing a higher amp battery doesn't give any extra current to any of the electricals, it just gives how much is needed, so your stock horn or indicators etc who need say 10w to 30w of current, pull the same amount of current, hence you don't need to worry about it getting blown away.

If in case you have a heavy load (a possible reason for your battery swap) then you just need to change the particular wires to thicker ones to allow a healthy load transfer.
For example I've also installed a self starter which needs heavy current, so its running with its own relay and separate thicker wires.

Previously i was running a 9 amp battery with coil supplying roughly 8~9 amp of charging current.
Now i am running the same 9 amp battery with the alternator supplying 35 amp of charging current.

I have never faced any problems to rest of the electricals, and even to the battery....