Query approved

There should not be too much problems with the internals. You can probably try replacing the engine oil and then try kick starting the bike and if it starts fine, then no worries. Do, ensure to change the front fork oil, tyres, cables and wiring (if required).

Thanks Guru!

This shouldn't be a problem. Since you say the kick start is well, then internals should be absolutely fine. Carb / chain / engine would however need some cleaning and lube. Would be better if you can check your fuel tank for any rust .. ( monsoon ). Tyres should be good too .. better to fill it up with air using leg pump before getting it out of the main stand .. tube might get damaged if pressure valve rubs against it ... check brakes before you start riding it though.. the rubber shoes would have hardened due to non-use and monsoon.

Good luck with your project.. all the best

And do please share before and after pics..we would love to see them

Ashish,

my two pence worth...

standing for two years should not have posed major problems for the bike. what has rusted is primarily the cosmetics bit which can be changed subsequently.

the first priority should be to get the bike up and running.

when you say that the throttle is jammed, i presume that either the right hand grip is stuck in the lever holder or the throttle cable has jammed because of rust - something that a few hand tools and some lubricating oil can fix easily for the time being.

as Prith said, the tank would have rust inside so you could temporarily use a substitute. i've seen pictures of under-assembly bikes being started using fuel dispensed through a drip assembly (what is used in hospitals to administer intravenous saline/glucose to patients). once the bike comes alive you can always clean the fuel tank depending upon the state that it is in.

if the kicker is moving, the internals should be good enough to start to say the least. check the electricals for any visible damage. clean the air filter element and the spark plug. also check the engine oil levels when you start her for the first time. in fact, you should engage the gears, hold the clutch lever and kick the bike gently a few times to get the engine oil to lubricate the moving parts before you start the bike.

assuming that the bike has only suffered rust damage, i guess a good paint job and replacement of a few spares should make the bike perfectly fine.

lastly, there are some very experienced members with over three decades of tinkering with bikes. psr is one of them. send him a PM and he is sure to advice you. i know because i do that very often.

now for some totally uncalled for advice - you could take this up as a 'do it yourself' project. the learning value will be tremendous and given the emotional factor involved here, you will never part with the bike ever. but then, i don't know your situation and therefore it's entirely your call.

regards and best of luck.

Thanks for the advice Prith. I have a leg pump so used it and the rear tyre is fine but the front valve-tube is busted. Also the spokes have become so brittle that a couple of em just broke when I touched em so I didnt dismount the bike from the stand. Chain cover is kind of torn and is hampering the rotation of the rear wheel. So will a call my mech and first get the bike on its feet.

And hey, yes I will definitely share the pics.....
Thanks again for taking the time to comment.

Hi Raj,

Your two pence worth really appreciated bro

I kinda inspected the bike today and I'm pretty sure that the throttle cable has jammed.

As I mentioned in Prith's reply, even my priority is to get the bike on its feet but the spokes and front tube are totally bust so thats where i'll start.

Cleaning the fuel tank shouldnt be a problem. Dont know yet about the electricals but the switches are still moving!!
Will get the air filter and spark plug replaced.

I have pumped the bike today itself just to get the circulation going.

Will PM psr for help and with regards to what you termed 'uncalled advice', bro its like you've vociferated my feelings and by no means is it uncalled.

I will try and do the bike myself as I know a lil bit about bikes (worked on 2 strokers before) but the only thing is that I work 12-13 hour shifts which leaves me with little time to dedicate to the task. I definitely will not part with the bike and thats a given.

Thanks for reciprocating my emotions on this subject.

Regards.

your welcome. its whatever little i've learned on this forum.

Approximate cost for spares:

Hi fellow bikers,

As per my inspection of the bikes current state, here is a list of parts that I might have to change in my Dad's CT100,

Front shock rods
Engine and fork oils
Fork Bearings
Front Odo cowl
Front and rear rims and spokes
Wheel bearings
Engine seals
Clutch lever
Throttle, clutch and gear cable
Right front indicator
Carburettor
Chain
Brake-shoes
Number plates
Numer plate brackets
All nuts and bolts set
Battery
Rear Shocks
Horn
Tank rust cleaning



My approximate is that it'll require at least 10k.
Do you'll agree or will the figure be higher as I haven't included labour?

Regards.

@ashish: Where in mumbai are you located? i have a mechanic who is honest and good at his work. I live in malad and would'nt mind spending some time on the restoration as in supervision. let me know if you need the info of the mech and shop.

Hey bro, I live bout 25kms away but it'd be great if u can give the name and the address of the mech. Thanks for offering to help, will definitely PM u if I need ur assistance bro.

I've bought some parts that I can fit on the bike myself so currently busy with the same. Have taken the new rims and spokes to the wheel guy for assembly. Got new front MRF rubber too.

Thanks again!!
Regards.

as a process and respect for your thought behind the rebuild, i would like to detail some of the processes involved.

- Firstly, get the chassis checked for rusting and corrosion eating away the metal. If the damage is extensive, it will have to be repaired and strengthened by welding additional metal. So look into that first.

- Front forks ( if no rust on the inner tubes ) and suspension will go for a overhaul. New oil, new oil seals etc.

- Check the rubber parts like the rear wheel hub coupling etc. They get brittle and give a lot of jerks during riding.

- Rims, spokes etc, can be bought new, since the CT100 had a lot of parts sharing with other bajaj bikes.

- Carburetor will be cleaned properly, wont need replacement. Can check the float needle for signs of damage / use.

- Tank, seat, side panels etc can be done at a later stage. There are tank repair shops, that take old tanks/damaged tanks, and for some extra money give you repaired, repainted, new ones. Check for those.

- The engine is a aspect by itself. But before delving too deep into it, make sure the electricals are ok with the CDi, ignition coil, magneto etc all ok.

- Depending on how many kms the bike has run, engine work can be done accordingly. If its around 30-40,000 kms, then its not much, a basic complete wash of the engine with petrol/diesel, and cleaning of the oil etc will be sufficient. new engine oil, clean the head, spark plug, clutch etc, and the bike should be up and running in no time.

PM me for any more information/clarifications.

Cheers and best of luck, may the force be with you.

@ashish: His number is 9821274557 and his name is Ram.

Thanks a ton dude!!