Query approved

According to my knowledge the Dealer is wrong!

All new engines have to follow "Break-In" or "Run-In" as per recommendations on the respective Manuals.The piston rings needs to be seated correctly and all engine parts will rub and metal particles will be shaved and these particles will accumulate with engine oil.Shaving metal particles means smoothening the metal parts inside,So i would say "Break-In" or "Run-In" is necessary for a new bike.

Proof:
Have a look at this,This is engine oil drained from a new karizma ran only 58kms.


So what do you think now?

What did I think? If its possible to rate your post 5*, I'd do that right now!!!

@HH_Hunk - Let's keep it simple; if the manufacturer can produce a motorcycle, their engineers know more than trained mechanics at ASC; atleast to begin with; may be when the mechanics at ASC develop expertise through their experience. Point is that, either the dealers or right or the manufacturer's owner's manual is right. I leave the decision to you!!!

Here's what the manual has to say...


Pls ask your dealer if they've got any written statement on the specific intervals & also if they've suggestions on...
1. When to carry out first service
2. Things to be inspected/changed during 1st & subsequent service. If they ask to follow the manual, why should they differ for run-in, but follow the service interval & instructions for manual?

And the above RPM's are something close I followed for my run-in on the first engine & you guys know what happened I'm not frightening, but, trying to add what I experienced. Probably someone need not experience the same too.

BTW, you can disclose whoever that "friend" of yours here, there's nothing to hide

Thanks sir.

Even though they are trained,they are noobs.

Beautiful man! this happens to every engine regardless of run in procedure. I had video'd this recently when I gave my bike the Joel touch, 628 km's later and 3 oil changes the bike is running very sweet, I done the hard run in Motoman stylee!

So the conclusion is that the dealer is wrong in stating those intervals and speed limits as in they were applicable to the previous engines as in 90s and the new engines today dont face those issues so now we dont have to stick to those RPMs/Speed/KMs bands that people used to earlier in those engines?

If this statement is true then the dealers must be taught things properly because novice and amateurs like me will listen to them and will do as they say (Which I did for my 1st 1000KMS)

Sad side of Indian Motorcycle Industry

That friend is none other than Aargee :P

Thanks for enlightening me dudes. @Aargee - Respect
Sorry for whatever I said on Facebook Aargee, I hope tum mujhe muaaf kardoge :P
LMAO :P

I followed this Break in process till now -> Idling engine for 2 mins, rode 40-45kmph till 4Kms, then gradually accelerated to 62Kmph for 30-40 secs ( 4.7K RPM ), then slowed down and rode for 25 Kms continuously with speeds varying from 40-55 Kmph.

Kms covered : 85
Mileage : Unsure
Price of petrol : Rs 71.3
Filled : Rs 700 petrol of which 2.2 Lts is reserve.
Usable petrol till reserve : 7.6 Lts

I'll drain the engine oil at 300Kms and will follow the same process till 800 Kms. Let's see how the process turns out in case of mileage as well as engine.

You did better than me!!
I let it warm up a couple min's, took it for a ride for about 500m, then gave it 3/4 throttle upto 7k and after a few kms started beating on it upto 9k 100% WOT (Wide Open Throttle) through the gears. Hard acceleration, lots of deceleration. Changed oil and filter @100km.
(this engine is a forged piston, 200cc/66mm bore, big valve head, kehin carb, k&n, Yoshimura exh with 10w 4T Full Synth Motul to run in the motor)

Hey, looks like you followed motoman's way. Let us know how your bike behaves this way.

That was the idea.
I don't like to baby things. I'm rough and tough on my gear. If its going to fail I want it to fail ASAP, not in the middle of nowhere in the pouring rain etc etc.

The process of wearing-in the piston rings is necessary as there are minute imperfections present on the rings(even though the the machines used to churn them out are better than ever before).
This is necessary as the imperfections may result in gaps at the circumference of the rings which on prolonged engine running periods may leak oil to the combustion chamber.
The enormous pressure exerted on the piston during the power stroke helps in sealing the new and imperfect rings properly.The small metallic particles you see in the drained engine oil is due to this process(the excess metal that is shed).
Once the rings are worn-in,there will be an effective sealant to prevent the engine oil, lubricating the reciprocating piston from seeping into the combustion chamber and high pressure fuel air mixtures from seeping into the crank case.
This is the same for the gearbox too(change gears often and properly when the ride's new and enjoy smoother gearshifts in the long run).

Let me add my observations.
Case 1: I previously owned a P180 (which got stolen 10 months later). I broke the engine in not-so-gently. The result was that my bike was noisier than than my colleague's.
Case 2: I have a friend who is a very easy rider. He owns an Avenger 220. So his run in was very very smooth. The bike made very little noise when you take usual bajaj noises in considerations. All you could hear was the pistons pumping, zero noise from the head. But 5k on the odo later, when it went on a Delhi-Dharmshala trip with stints of constant 100kph, the pushrod gave away and there was a racket from the engine. After PBK fixed it, the bike runs more relaxed than before.
Case 3: I finally got the insurance payout and bought a P220. Been gentle, keeping it below 4K rpm. My clutch was totally loose so gear shifts were hard as hell. Had to stomp down on the lever to downshift on a few occasions. It was finally fixed in the first service. But now, the shifts are super smooth. I mean like Honda Unicorn-smooth (no guys, no exaggeration here). They are much softer than my friend's P220 who bought his bike on the same day as I did and has done the same mileage. Also, he has been riding his bike considerably harder and his bike sounds considerably different. My bike, when warmed, makes as much noise as his does when cold. Idling and all are same.

Now in all the three cases, I'm not really sure if the run-in was a factor or if it is just a difference in character of separate machines. But I drew the parallels because that was the only variable that had changed - how the breaking-in was done.

There are too many variables. You have different bikes with different engines.
Different oils, different parts (internally), parts made in different companies, different manufacturing runs, even down to the people who assemble the final engine/gearbox.