Abhijeet's idea is what works (seen it working in coupla bikes). And then you buy a UPS battery and live happily ever after (2 years, some 25k km and still going on and on and on)

AFAIK the more number of times charge n discharge occurs the longer the battery life.

Infact i have a Bullet 350 (My Dad's) from 1980. He is the first owner and believe it or not, the battery lasts for atleast 5 years. I know it doesn't have self start but Bullet doesn't start with Kick as well if there is no battery.

In case if battery loses life then why not Amaron which comes with 30months replacement guarantee + 30months prorate warranty.

Even a 35w Halogen bulb will dry the battery when running on DC

Bro, just a question. What will happen if u connect LED's directly withOUT Bridge Rectifier??

I had connected it earlier and the LED's worked fine. Only thing i noticed was - I had to connect -ve of LED to +ve of AC and +ve of LED to ground. It works. Try it if u have doubt

HiD needs DC supply, don't ever try running on AC. HiD will blow off if there is fluctuation in power supply. AFAIK that is the reason ballast is given too.

I have saw people doing it for P150 and P180 so it may fit to P200 as well but that will increase only the alternator current. Not the current to battery

And yeah, avy 180 coil will not increase current to battery.

thats sad....i better buy a DC bike then as i cant live without the HID...i am addicted now
bajaj please launch the ninja

Just an idea, don't know how well it ll be useful

AFAIK we get 1 Xenon and 1 Halogen on bikes.

Isn't it possible to make that Halogen work on AC and HiD on DC

In other words (for non HiD), 1 beam on AC and 1 beam on DC

Low beam on AC to use in city conditions and High on DC for Highway riding. Isn't it a good idea

Yeah.. that's something new. I should work - as long as you don't get addicted to the HID!

I assume it's not too late to reply to the thread, and also almost everybody has overlooked a simple approach to DC lighting.. (i'm Assuming)

I hope that my solution works our for all of your battery problems, HID setups in most cases.

My Bike is UG III Pulsar 180, an HID setup with full bike on DC, modified by me, tested at 18,380 ft, and about 20K Kms with this setup.

Especially for most of the P200, P150 and P180 users, I have observed, the local mechs who install the HID's and make bike DC, leave the Current going to Headlight dormant!

It's simple and atleast works on Pulsars UGIII.

(1) For any bike, just put the wire going to headlamp directly to the battery.
(2) Put a bridge rectifier, on the wire which was going to the bulb, and instead re route it to the battery, this gives extra current to the battery.
(3) This works and there's no need to rewind or do any thing with the coil.

Simple, Cost Effective, and does affect battery, atleast in case of 9AH.

This setup is best for HID, but works also for 55W bulbs, as the combined capacity of Normal Battery Charging (15W) + Custom made Rectifier (35W) puts up a healthy 50 W.

If this setup had not already been discussed I will elobrate more on it.

^^^that is more or less what was in my mind but didn't know how exactly to go about it... more details pls...

This is what I have been saying. But, I do not have any circuit. Can you please share your circuit? Also, how did you combine the Battery DC and Rectifier output and power the bulb?

The Original Wiring



The Modified Wiring

Basically the coil, provide current for Battery (A) and separately for the Headlamp (B). The best part is that a DC setup is actually much simpler than AC, so i really didn't get the idea behind Indian bikes being AC.

Nevertheless simply cut the wire going to Headlamp, put a rectifier re-route it to the battery.

The problem is only with Pulsar UGIII family. As you put the wire going to BCU on battery, the self-start won't work. Workaround? Put a switch. Off before you start and then switch on after the bikes starts. But in my case I have installed a relay, which had been discussed earlier on the forum. Switching off and on is quiet cumbersome in stop-n-go city traffic, a relay works best.

Thanks for the circuit. One problem - when the bulb is switched off, the battery will be overcharged due to current from the bridge rectifier. Maybe install a switch between the bridge rectifier and the battery and switch it off when not using the headlight.

I was also unsure about the effect of overcharging the battery. My Exide battery lasted 2 years on this setup before dying out. That's at least 12,000Kms of night riding! But in case, a switch can be provided in between the rectifier, to prevent overcharging. Although there are numerous other ways to stop overcharging, complex circuits tend to be unreliable on a bike, prone to heat, water and cold.

BTW it was easy to build the rectifier, but took some time to get the best circuit, which is reliable. My rectifier went kaput 2 times, after which the final design worked. And yes it's tested in -10 degrees to +45 Degress Celcius, with ice, water put in! Non-stop night riding for 10 hours!

And most important, a LEAD-ACID Battery will die, under deep discharge, even 3-4 deep discharge will kill the battery. So the option of charging the battery daily is not advisable.

That Black thing is the housing for Rectifier + relay. It charges the battery as well as automatically switches the bike to DC, as soon as the bike is switched on and vice versa!

The rectifier diodes have to be bigger IN4007 won't work, even after that the diodes will heat up a lot, a smart design with a heat sink, will do the trick. It may sound complex but it's easy one time effort!