Query approved

tubeless tyres all the way.
they are successfull,what do you think why every manufacturer offering them these days?
in case of puncture,you need not to repair instantly.
considering its widespread use every mechanics should know how to repair them.

Even i am trying to change to tubeless tyres on my Pulsar 150 UG1.

Can anyone guide me if there are tubeless rims & tyres available for Pulsar 150...

How much will they cost me?

tubeless rims ?
try zapper,check out cost at your local store.

What does a tubeless tyre (for apache) cost.

approx 1.5k for each tyre.check out price at your nearby place.

Well, success depends on from what point you look at...
- Harsh riding habit that causes bent alloy wheels are to be termed unsuccessful

- Gradual release of air on puncture, longer air retainer, ability to hold Nitrogen & thus improving a slighter better life on tires, easy puncture fix are all termed successful

I'd love this opportunity to buy a tire puncture kit, learn how to fix puncture (actually its easier done than said ) & do it all myself. Costs way too less to fix a puncture with the puncture kit compared to even traditional methods

If you want any more of this tire nonsense ...
- Stick to the OE size; if you want to oversize or under size from the existing, then use this calculator to check how much of your speedo is affected

- Buy a tire always from dealer, dealer & dealer only. Reason being simple that, tires are prone to manufacturing defect & most dealers hesitate to take back the used tire as they've to fight with manufacturer to make them agree that its a manufacturing defect. So a proper bill, reputed dealer makes things look positive on account of defects

- Use a soft compound (more on this s*** coming up) for superior grip & low miles & hard compound for inferior grip & long life. Don't ask me to number the low & high as it depends on weight of vehicle, rider, riding conditions & ofcourse the manufacturer. But the good thing is there's seldom any soft compound to be found in this country, except on grey markets

- The design of the tire (or tread) provides traction and handling characteristics; choose a pattern on the conditions that you'll be more riding;
Tires like this

provides better grip on dry & helps to keep water away from sticking to tires, providing a balance on both; they also tend to retain less heat & support high speed riding.

Tires like this

provides the superior grip on dry weather & retain even lesser water than the one above; these tires are generally not suitable for high speed riding (can be checked on the tire for the limits) & obviously heats faster

So whatever you buy...choose well, good luck

dude..i too had this situation with my pulsar 150 about a year back. everytime I used to push it a couple of kilometers to fix it. bloody a** h** desi mechanic cheated me everytime until I took it to a Bajaj garage and fixed it with new tyre and tube.

i would second aargee and sayank, tubeless and investment in puncture repair kit is way ahead (Pulsar 220's have both). Additionally, tubeless do not get heated as much as their tube cousins and softness is noticeble with nitrogen fill. Go for the popular MRF ones with your local dealers and check few shops before buying one. stick with manufacturer recommended size to avoid unpleasant surprise in pickup and mileage.

Sayed - The use is on very bad & pitty roads. Everywhere there is a deep dip on the road. Roads aare so bad that the bike can't be ridden even in 3rd gear, sometimes in 3rd & always in 2nd gear.

Just cannot imagine without Tubeless tyres. There has been numerous occasion when my bike's tyre had a puncture but I had no time to get it repaired. Just used to get it filled & ride.

I have ridden 64000+ which also includes roads (or so called roads) which was dotted with potholes. I never ever had any serious bents (touch wood).