Topic Approved and Moved to Help Section.

HID's might help, but Projectors and bigger bulbs might tax the battery a bit too much.

Is your wiring a DC or AC, (if its DC you should be able to get the headlights on even when vehicle is not running, as battery provides the power source).

In any case, I suspect that your alternator is not able to generate enough amps to provide for all the lights, What voltage and amp is the battery?
Because for your requirement of a 35W bulb + 20w(white brake light(say)) and 15W for halo and 15W for indicators, then you need 80W/12V=6A+
Check if your battery is atleast 7Amps if DC, if AC make sure the alternator generates above 100W power to charge the battery as well as provide for the lighting.
Plugging in phillps will just burn 800rs hole in your pocket but wont give u any bright result that you were looking for.
Good alternate is to reduce consumtion by using 5W led bulbs for indicators and 10W one for the tail lamp, dont use halo when using the headlamp, that should give you brightness.

The battery is the stock one supplied by the company. The brake light is the one originally fixed to the bike, the number plate light is the one that I have changed to white.When I turn on my bike and switch on the lights the strip lights light up immediately but the angel eye takes some time to light up as the battery needs time to get heated up.I don't have issues with any of them. I'm confused that whether the low brightness of the headlight is due to the bulb itself or as you suggested due to the load of the other lights. I guess posting a pic of the bike might help you reason it out?

Any suggestions for good HIDs? and how much they would cost? or any solutions to improve the brightness of my currently fixed headlight?

How can "HID help but projector tax the battery a bit too much"?

Re: Suzuki access 125- Headlight beam too less.

prajnyan got it spot on. I would say the culprit has to be angel lights and LED strips.

The stock electrical setup is usually built with just about enough capacity to support the following, with minor differences depending on the make/model:
1. Headlight - 35/35W
2. Pilot lamps - 3W*2.
3. Tail / Brake - 5W/21W or 5/10W (depending on make/model)
4. Number plate light - Some have a separate 4W bulb, some have it designed so that the tail light itself can illuminate it by leaving an opening at the bottom.
5. Turn signals - 10W*4.
6. Dashboard panel - Background light, turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, low fuel indicator, etc, mostly 2-3W each.
7. Horns - I don't know the wattage.

Of these, 1, 2, 3 (tail part), 4 come from alternator directly (that's why they flicker when idling and glow steadier at higher RPMs) and the rest come from battery. So the alternator output is distributed between all these and then the rest goes to charge the battery.

All the things that you have setup are stuff that draw directly from battery (higher wattage horns, angel eye, strip lights). The system is struggling to provide for all these. The halonix bulb or any other make won't make a difference as they all give out about the same lumen output. More importantly the problem doesn't lie with the bulb. You got to lose some of the power suckers and most likely that itself will show a tremendous improvement.

You could further replace the angel eyes with LED ones and also replace all the other lights with LEDs possible. Further then, if you can get it converted to DC headlight, you can buy LED headlights off aliexpress which should solve the issue.