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**Honda_CBF** · 06-05-2012, 09:30 PM

Originally posted by SatSon View Post

I had read in Hunk/Xtreme ownership thread (posted by 'psr') that idle rpm fluctuation can be related to cracks/holes in air hose from air filter to carb. Please check the below link.

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...-hunk-473.html

yup, it can cause fluctuating idle rpm as the AFR will be lean.

Originally posted by Rashid View Post

When asked to tune i saw my mechanic removing th AFR screw and cleaning it, so i thought its the idle jet.Maybe it is different in different carbs??????

AFR screw & pilot/idle jet are different components of carbs.
Cleaning can be done by 'unscrewing' AFR screw also but with idiot mechanics around, it can cause trouble. (as i have told earlier, I've been through this problem earlier & after getting my carb cleaned & tuned serious overheating started, because of the lean mix)
.
@ Thread starter,
if you're getting your carb cleaned, dont let your mechanic fiddle with the AFR screw, unless you trust his expertise. Period.

**rharish90** · 06-05-2012, 11:21 PM

Originally posted by gamer.gautam View Post

Hi guys. I have got a couple of questions, i own an RTR 180 by the way.. :P

1. My bike doesn't idle for long, it switches off pretty frequently when in a standstill... i have to keep revving the bike in order to stop it from stalling. i tried setting the idle speed but no use.. and one more thing, the idle speed of the bike fluctuates, i set it to around 1.4k rpm but it slowly goes down. no matter what i do, the engine rpm comes down, it not stable. i'm fed up of revving my bike all the time.

2. And, i feel that SHELL petrol gives me awesome fuel efficiency when compared to other bunks' petrol. is it just me??? usually, i fill petrol from HP bunks and it would last me 5 days of normal usage. its been 4 days since i last filled petrol from SHELL and the petrol meter is still at 3 bars.. i've been revving hard and still it seems to last much much longer..

3. is it a good idea, to pour water on the engine to force cool it down??? i mean, accelerate the cooling???

1. I have absolutely no idea about this

2. In my experience, Shell and any Company Owned and Operated BP Petrol Bunk return the same mileage for my bikes.
3. Do this, and your engine might develop cracks. That means, time to shop for a new engine!

**gamer.gautam** · 06-05-2012, 11:33 PM

Originally posted by Honda_CBF View Post

@ Thread starter,
if you're getting your carb cleaned, dont let your mechanic fiddle with the AFR screw, unless you trust his expertise. Period.

I don't trust any mechanic in my area... they claim to have experience, but they are only good at "taking the bad part out, and fixing new one" and charge an exorbitant amount... they don't know anything else other than that..

Better i visit a Service centre and tell them to adjust the AFR ratio... i have a couple of other niggles that need to be rectified.. but nothing major though, thank goodness..

except this issue..

**Honda_CBF** · 06-06-2012, 07:27 AM

Originally posted by gamer.gautam View Post

I don't trust any mechanic in my area... they claim to have experience, but they are only good at "taking the bad part out, and fixing new one" and charge an exorbitant amount... they don't know anything else other than that..

same condition at my place that's why I'm trying to be DIY guy..
Hope your issues come to an end sooner

**gamer.gautam** · 06-06-2012, 09:36 AM

Thank you very much, everyone.. and yes, i hope this idling issue gets rectified.. its becoming unbearable.. :P

**theironhorse99** · 06-06-2012, 12:28 PM

the carb will have slow jet and main get.. the idiling issue generally comes due to slow jet being choked. as stated open the bottom cap of the carb and there should be brass tubes (for layman underdstanding) dip them in carb cleaner else brake fuild and with a single strand of wire clean it throughly. that should resolve the issue. be gently with it and dont bend or break anything. while tightening them back dont use a lot of force. they are brittle and can break easily. just tighten them with little force. clean the air filter.

if foam type then with kerosene else petrol. dry it well. use a lil oil and squueze it so it spreads evenly and fit it back. if paper type. blow pressurized air in reverse direction.

check the hose for leakage.

these should solve the issue as per my thought.
in case if anything is wrong in what i added fellow members can add in.

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