may be service center guys saying like that because the coil is divided into three parts one for battery charging, second for lighting and last one for ignition..

sajjt what do u say for this rr type
i think there are two rr one for charging the battery and other for lighting...

Here's a circuit diagram from Pete Snidal. There are multiple ckt diagrams, only this one had 5ah battery so assume its the relevant one. It was named Home (Indian) Model

It can be done, I guess classic is a full DC and uses bigger 14AH battery. If u going for twin HIDs, 14AH and classic RR is the best option.

exactly, I've shared the same in the DC conv thread.


Lets not make it complex, make it as simple as possible for fool proof installation and easy troubleshooting. U r planning to use HIDs, so why do u want to split the output? Make it a full DC and use it judiciously.

I don't think so, it can be done within the RR. Take the case of Honda breeds, it has only one coil and its being split within the RR for charging and lighting very intelligently as its got a DC ignition where the DC is a must for better ignition. So u need to have a healthy battery if u make it full DC, else once the battery flattens, misfiring starts if u use the HL in low rpms.

Thanks for the reply sajjt.

There are some models of bullet which don't start without a battery. STD is one of them IIRC. I think they use 3 phase and use all 6 poles.

I called up Ruby Electricals again. He says its not a 3 phase, only single phase. He said, he'd fit APE RR in lots of bike but never in a bullet, he also said that He also said that he's not sure if winding with a single wire and plonking an APE RR (the regular way) will work because the magnets might be weak.

I was just referring to the original setup


Update : I poked the RE service center guys and explained the difference between 1 phase and 3 phase AC current. He finally said that its a 2-phase. They had some weird logic for referring to it as 3-phase.

Phew, I guess I can finally go with APE RR + Rewinding.

Any inputs?

no it can't be 2 phase coil its a single phase coil because your stock rr has only four inputs like sajjt said honda breeds rr which rr itself divides single coil current to two one four charging battery and other for lighting....

My bad, its 1-phase. not 2 phase

so now it is confirmed, that it is single phase. so now you can use APE RR.

next thing is rewinding, going by the looks of it, there is not much space in the coils... ?? still you can try.

If its a single phase alternator, there wont be a problem once u wind it with thicker gauge wire and feed APE RR. I was referring to the conversion of 3ph to 1ph. You'll get better output once u rewind it with moderate thick wire say 19G, may be it can make issues if u go greedy and wind the poles by 17G or so which am not sure, only a trial can reveal it.

But I think its better to stick to 3 phase on a bull. What about swapping the Classic winding pattern as 3ph and plonking the classic 3ph RR? Because bulls are not rev happy mills and thats the reason original DC setups are always sticks to 3phase. 3 phase can give more stable current. Also check with Ruby guys the feasibility of this part before going further.


These grease monks wont change

Thing is, u cant expect a single person who can speak authentically about electrical mods unless he's hard core DIY person. And finding such a person in a SVC is quite difficult as they wont let that guy to survive there for long as experimenting is not allowed bcz it can invite repetition complaints which is ofcourse a head ache for a SVC. If you try to interact with them such queries they will act as dumb or stare as if they are interacting with a moron which is more easier for them than explaining the whole thing if they know something. I don't trust any grease monks in electrical mods even if he's got ample experience in the field as they can easily mislead you so easily and ending up in a thick soup.Its purely ur call and go by logic, it should work, thats what I can say.

I'm thinking of 18G, 19G might be thin enough not to generate enough amps.
thinner wire = more volts = less current (better for high RPMs)
Still, I'll go to Ruby electrical today evening and see what can be done.


damn! so true

EDIT:
Can I use my existing 5ah battery till I plonk an HID? Or will my existing 55/65w halogen + electrical completely dry the battery?

Just coming back from ruby. He says bullets have weaker magnets so he thinks it can generate max 5amps. Alternatively was thinking of converting to 3 phase using p220 18 pole coil.. I asked him to stick with existing stator. Will give bike tomorrow. Lets see what happens

you mean to P220 stator plate will be a direct fit on RE..??

and what about magnet ?

do you think it is possible to put stator plate and magnet of P220 on RE, without going into serious mechanical mods?

just raising my doubts.

my suggestion is simply rewind with a 19 G wire and put APE RR, this way you should be able to run a 55/60w HID. and that should be more than sufficient. you can also replace your existing magnets with a ew one if you feel the old ones have become weak.

Even I doubt if putting P220 stator is a wise idea.

Anyways, have asked him to do just rewinding for single phase + APE RR.

EDIT: Update

Just called Ruby electricals again. He has done the rewinding. Says that the coil is generating around 10 amps. He hasn't checked after fitting in bike though. He'll do a thorough check tomorrow post which I can fit an APE RR.

Do you had fitted the rewinded coil or not, if fitted then what is the amps you are getting.

a little correction -- you said thinner wire= more volts.

it is not correct. voltage depends on number of turns and magnet strength and rpm, not on the guage of wire... i think.

and keep us updated about latest developments.

Here's the update.
Rewinding to DC is complete (19AWG) and the bike is giving me 5-7amps with a max of 14.5 volts to charge battery. It can support one HID + other electricals with ease but not 2 HIDs
Will APE RR give better outputs? Ruby electricals denied it saying there's not enough current being generated to require an APE RR.

HID fitment it WIP. The projector was fit inside the sealbeam after a lot of bending and grinding. Yesterday when Ruby electricals tried to fit it, the headlight glass broke since the back side of projector hit speedometer cable. The projector glass was touching the sealbeam glass, so there was not space for it to move even a mm)

He's searching for an alternate method. Maybe if I can get a round cylindrical ring to extend the length of headlight so that there's a gap b/w speedometer cable and projector.
Lets see.

And yes, thinner wire = more volts was a comparison on amps vs volts for same length wire.