Nah.. Warm up not needed. Cold engine would be better (i think) as hot or warm spark plug (being slightly different with specification) can cause damage to threads of spark plug hole.

@princesirohi

I did as u said, turned the AFR screw to 6.5 turns, but still the engine is getting heated up like it used to. Burnt smell is not going. I'm getting the smell more after driving at high speeds. The speedometer needle and RPM needle are moving together in the 5th gear.

ok, so now, turn it back to 4.0 turns and see if heat is increasing, after checking report back and don't keep it at 4, go back to your usual setting of 5 turns.

also tell us what part is welded and how exactly...? if possible with pics...of silencer (exhaust)

you said your carb was replaced, can you tell us whether you put the correct carb and not some other bikes, plz confirm make and model number.

open the spark plugs and the make and model is written on spark plugs, post it here.

check point number-3 of my earlier post dated 10/10/12.

what do you mean speedometer and rpm needle move together, explain in detail.

also, if you can post a video of the sound your earlier described.

@princesirohi

I turned it to 4 turns and there is no appreciable increase in the heat.

The welded part of the silencer is not visible from outside. They must have done something inside it. It's fine now.

I don't know where the model and make of the carburettor is written, but I changed it from the ASC. So hopefully it is the correct one.

How to open the spark plug? I had gone to change my suspension bush two days back and asked the mechanic to open the spark plug to check the colour of the tip, it was powdery white.

Yesterday, a strange thing happened. Petrol started leaking from the carburettor waste pipe. Whenever I turn the fuel knob to ON or RESERVE, oil starts leaking. Therefore I'm not being able to start the bike. What's wrong? Durga Puja is going on and there is no mechanic available. Can I fix it myself?

A guy told me that if there was any problem with the clutch plates (like slipping), the RPM needle and speedometer needle would not move together (means they would not rotate by the same angle from the left) in the 5th gear. But they do move together. Don't know if this is a correct diagnosis.

When the engine becomes very hot, the bike shudders while moving from standstill, in first gear. I feel a vibration. Although it is momentary. This disappears completely, when the bike is cool.

I hear a ticking sound coming from the cylinder head. Is it of the tappets?

The burnt smell is still there. It becomes prominent high speed riding. Is it coming from the cylinder head rubber gasket?

Very confused. Please help!

Get in touch with kolkata xbhpians they'll surely help you out. From the spark plug colour its clear that your bike is running lean. For the time being, don't ride it or at least max out at 4-5 kms at one go. Regarding opening spark plug its damn easy, check owners manual, but while fitting it back DON'T over tighten it, 1/8th turn (with spanner) is enough after tightening it with fingers.

Replying about engine problems online without inspecting the bike is quite impossible due to the number of variables involved.

A classic clutch is very touchy when it comes to lubrication. It is better to put the bike on center stand and start it and leave it for a minute so that the oil can circulate properly. Please check your friction plates, pressure plates and the clutch bell. Most likely cause of low acceleration in classic pulsars is clutch slippage. If there is clutch slip then the bike will over heat as well. since you have a new block, it must be putting more pressure on an old clutch assembly. Get it checked.

The overflow from the carb is due to the float getting jammed inside the carb due to dirty fuel or fuel tank. If your plug is white even after running rich then the jets might be clogged too. please get your carb cleaned thoroughly and check your tank and petcock for dirt and rust.

The ticking sound is a bomb. He he sorrry, couldnt resist.

The ticking sound is most likely loose tappets which isnt necessarily a bad thing if you are running a new block. Get tappet clearance checked by a good mechanic.

Please get a new classic exhaust. It is cheap at 1400rs/. Repaired exhausts are nono when a new one can be acquired so cheap.

Another reason for over heating might be a faulty ignition system. please check if you are getting proper spark at the ht coil lead. It should be a healthy continues blue stream of current. A longshot but a probable cause none the less.

@Bibhu

Thanks Bibhu, I'll get my clutch assembly checked and tappets adjusted. Will overhaul the tank and carburettor as well.

I didn't get the correct exhaust for my bike. The repaired one is doing fine now.

How to check the ignition system? :P

Please give your suggestions for the following post as well:

All corrected exhausts I have seen choke the gas flow, So not a good idea. You can find replicas of the first gen dtsi exhaust(non exhaustec) every where. It would be much better than a repaired one although wont last as long as an oe exhaust. Remember, A bad exhaust can put unwanted pressure on the valve train and cause over heating.

To check your ignition take your plug cap off the spark plug. Unscrew the plug cap from the ht lead. Keep the lead a few centimeters from the plug and crank the engine. If the iggy is healthy then you would see a steady blue stream of electricity passing between the lead and the plug.WARNING: THE LEADS PRODUCE ABOUT 30,000 VOLTS OF CURRENT. DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU ARE FLUENT WITH MECHANICS. GET IT DONE BY A PROFFESIONAL MECH.

did you take out the spark plug and checked for the color? ideally it should be darkish brown .

My bike also had similar problem of overheating and i was very particular about it.changed a lot of things like spark plugs/air filter / ensuring tyres are inflated and brake pads dont interfere wheel rotation. nothing really helped.
switching from craptrol to Petronas did helped a bit, but still on long journeys i used to feel engine should be more cooler.

after getting carburettor cleaned Bike is very cool now. get your carb cleaned and engine oil switched to motul 3000/3100.

@Bibhu

My bike is the first version of Pulsar, not the DTS-i one. Therefore it is much more difficult to get the original spares. Do not trust the replicas. :P

It'll be better if I ask the mechanic to check the ignition system.


@Inagr

Hey, thanks for replying. I did check the colour of the spark plug, it was whitish, even though I am running rich (I'm supposed to run rich because the AFR screw has 5-6 turns). Will get the carburettor cleaned and would also check the clutch assembly.

I get it. But please understand this, a pipe put in the exhaust opening and welded to the mouth is how your exhaust was repaired mostly. So the diameter of the exhaust opening is bound to be compromised. If this is the case then your bike will struggle to expel the exhaust gases efficiently and performance will drop. Heard of free flow exhausts? This is the EXACT opposite. So any replacement would be better than jugad.
If you have cash then go for an exhaustec silencer as it also helps increase low end performance. Other wise look for a classic exhaust or a 1st gen dtsi exhaust. Both are still available in cuttack so bound to be available in Kolkata.

@Bibhu

Actually a 'phat phat' sound was coming from the silencer. I went to a local mechanic, who said that some 'net' has become loose and needs to be welded. Went to another mechanic and he said that some 'partition' needs to be welded and that it is something minor. Got it fixed and the bike sounds like new again. Still there is not a sign of rust in my stock exhaust and I cannot see any sign of welding outside it (except the original factory welding).

Please read my previous post carefully. I have explained how your exhaust was repaired and why it should be changed. It is your motorcycle so it is your choice. I have just penned down my experience.

@Bibhu

I'll get my exhaust checked at the ASC.