Thread approved.

Did you get the charger and coil changed in front of you or did you leave the bike with them? If you left it with them then I would highly suggest that you get it done in front of you.
Swap starter relay and check, I know sounds weird but it too can cause leakage which is draining the battery even with engine idling. Since youre saying backlight flickers that means a high load is being put on the electrical system thats why I suspect starter relay shorting out a bit. Check horn wires too.

Thank you Tez.

Yes. The Regulator , Fuses, Magnetic Coil, starter relay(new), CDI coil, BCU and Battery were swapped and checked in front of me twice. It was possible because my elder brother also has a Pulsar 220f (2014). The entire wiring has been checked and tested by 3 mechanics so far and none of them were able to find any problem with it.

As I never used any additional electronic accessories such as strobe lights, phone charger or fog lights on my bike, the wiring does not have any cuts or amendments.

The last mechanic who tried isolating the issue has zeroed in on two possibilities. Either it is the display console or the Wiring. Because when he swapped the display console and checked, the RPM needle stopped jumping.

The Battery seems to have taken the hit through all these testings, hence I had to replace it with a new one.

Its been a week now, though the actual issue of Head light putting load on the battery has not surfaced yet however the RPM needle continues to jump from 1 to any number frequently.

Last time when I swapped the battery, it took 4 days for the problem to re appear.

Few questions :-
Can Display console have short circuits? and can it add extra load on the battery?

​​​Why is my RPM needle jumping from 1 to any number very frequently and the pattern of occurrence is random?

Only when I switch on the head light the battery takes a hit and becomes low(though it has not re-occured yet on my new battery). We replaced both the switches, as per mechanic no issues with the bulbs, sockets and wiring. What else can it be?

Jumping rpm needle is either faulty meter or improper connection to ignition coil. Tacho takes reading from the negative terminal of ignition coil, connection should be neat. clean any corrosion if present on contact pin. Meter usually wont develop shorts unless water entry is present, through rain or washing. If it is then that means your rubber sealing for the meter should be shot and water entry damage would be clearly visible like foggy glass or water marks on display or any part. The only indicator in console is high beam led which should affect battery in a short because the blue led would blow before any damage is done to battery. there is no low beam indicator. If any wiring was to shear or get ground it would 90 percent of the times be on the neck/stem of the chassis between the upper and lower handle T. get yourself a mutlimeter and check continuity with ground for every wire in Head couplers which is NOT BLACK YELLOW. High beam wire is blackRed iirc and low beam is YellowBlue.

Thank you Tez. The steps recommended by you makes sense. I will try it out and let you know.

​​​​​​I don't remember seeing my speedometer fog up during monsoons. I also feel that the high beam's wiring is getting ground somewhere.

As of now, all the wires have been properly tied and tucked into sleeves. I will check the neck area and look for any damaged wires(especially high beam).

The rpm needle continues to bounce however I will try to observe more when it happens next time. May be there's a pattern.

Thanks Tez for being so considerate and trying to help me out.

my pleasure