Thanks Prashant for your inputs

Guys an update,

I again went to the mechanic. He said that he will replace the lower crank with the crank of CI 350. The upper crank would be untouched. He will also change the carb.This would help eliminate the probs faced by AVL. He said that the mechanical clatter would be gone.

Is this correct guys?

Enfielder,

First he says the piston is screwed. Then he says the oil filter has drank up the oil. Then he asks you to replace the entire engine. And now this.

The crank has nothing to do with the clatter. Maybe the mechanic wants the AVLs lighter crank. So, he's trying to pull off a fast one on you. Same case with the carb too. The crank and the carb have nothing to do with the clatter. I really think you are being taken for a ride. If you still stick on to this mechanic inspite of so many Xbhpians warning you and dismissing his crappy theories, I can only wish you all the best.

Thanks Prashant,Appreciate your concern.

The mechs taking u for a ride.Pune xbhpians help required here...

Hi Enfielder,

Like most of our brothers here have said, the mechanic seems to be taking you for a ride.

There is a simple thing that you can do to see the damage to the piston. When there is anything wrong in the power train of the Bullet, then the sounds that come are load dependent. This means that upon mild to sudden accelaration, the engine would make a little sound just like it would in case of pinging. Try to find that sound, if you can then it is the piston & if not then even though you will have to get the chamber opened but then instead of the piston, get the rings changed. You can also inspect the piston for damage, by looking for any sort of scratch marks (scuffing). The area where the scratches develop on the piston can tell why & how the scuffing actually occured, but then unless the scratches are deep, you needn't worry much & just change the piston rings in that case. Also when you are at this job, ask the mechanic to put the top ring i.e. compression ring at the top, middle & bottom of the cylinder bore. The ring gap should be equal at all the places, & care should be taken that the ring should be parallel to the ground on which the cylinder bore is placed. If it is not then it indicates an uneven bore.

About the mechanical clatter of the AVLs, this is an inherent quality in AVLs & even in the UCE. I don't know that changing the crank would help or not, but I doubt it. As for the clatter, the crank can never be a reason, although the crank bearings can be one of the reasons & in case they are, then they should be corrected as soon as detected as if you let this defect run for long, it can lead to crankcase distortion. But I must also add that the sound from this defect is not easily detectable & also the sound due to this will come as the load is increased & not continously. It usually doesn't happen so easily, forget this thing till the sympoms become a little more visible, as there's no point getting the engine opened unneccessarily. Apart from the crank bearings, other reasons for clatter are valve train components which includes the rocker guides, tappet guides, valve guides, cam backlash.

Take care.

Happy thumping,
Prakhar

Thanks Prakar, Appreciate your inputs. Thanks all Xbhpians bros

Hi Enfielder,

The pleasure is entirely mine buddy. Do let us all know about the progress.

Take care.

Happy thumping,
Prakhar

How many more?

Hi! all,

I recently faced an issue with my TBTS. Though I've had the experience of a lifetime with the bike and love it more than anything else, the bike does have some issues and as I used always tell my girlfriend everyones not perfect otherwise we would have never had the need of the Marriage Funda.

It all started when i just got my refueled @ a Fuel station in Hinjewadi, Pune. The bike simply refused to start after that, there was some problem with the electric starter and that was pretty obvious from the sound it made. I tried the Kick start option and it made a sound like the electric start. So was pissed of, puzzled, irritated, etc. whatever would want me to call it. I pushed my bike to a near by Mechanic parked it and asked if he would have any idea. (Free fund Advice: Never let these run of the mill mechanics even touch your bike). He said, "Nahi Sahib, humne kabhi Bullet ko nahi repair kiya" and he gave up. I tried all my "Bullet Doctor" Friends and my regular Mech, Friends suggested put it in a Tempo and send it to the Mech. So I did.

So I talked up a bit with this Mech of mine and asked him what exactly was the issue. He said Saprk Clutch had taken a Beating. On asking How? the reply Shot off: "Woh part hi Faulty hai, Electric start bar bar marne se Kharab ho jata hai". No Specific number for that "Bar-Bar" on repeated attempts to get that info out . So the Learning is "Don't Forget, This is an RE at the end of teh day. Kick start is the Best". So I asked what is to be done he said Badlna padega. Price 3.5 K. Time: No Clue (Parts in Shortage) ... "RE parts are Costly and Rare". Then the Temprary Solution was remove it and use it with Kick start till it the parts Arrive.

2 Days and Still waiting.

So Now the question how many have seen this issue with their/ Their Friends bikes? Also, Trying to figure out as to where did i go wrong

Waiting for replies guys.

Oh before I forget, the Bike is awesome and this price paid and effort put in is all more than worth it. Trust me you'll fall in Love with bike.

^^ your bike is electric start??? my friends called me from manali to make me hear to noise coming from their bike ( machismo 500 ), and it refused to move, shift in neutral or kick start or anything.. It was a high pitched whining noise. I advised them to remove the starter motor, and put fabricated plate on the opening, and use the kick.. It was a seized starter motor that refused to disengage from the starting gear.