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Originally posted by silver_falcon_46
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But i lost you on the EDIT. Care to elaborate?
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As i said earlier "beefier" meaning "thicker" as the 220 has slightly better torque.
But i lost you on the EDIT. Care to elaborate?I'm too intelligent to the unintended, and too dumb for the obvious. -
Originally posted by EL LOCO DIABLO View Post
I do know that beefier would mean thicker or simply "well built". I wasn't sure though if that's what the mech mentioned or if it was some other detail.
As for the edit, I saw you freaking out when someone said that the oil you were using was suitable for cars, I was trying to say that this would mean the oil is not meant for engines running wet clutch and would result in a pretty quick wear and tear of the clutch.sigpic
Abstainer: A weak person who yields to the temptation of denying himself pleasure.Comment
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issues with GB...
1. go for motul 15W50 API-SM/MA2 grade..
P220 need 20W50 so 15W50 is suitable for ur motor.
MA2 complaint, so it is recommanded for wet clutch machines.
2. check the lever for moment, sometimes gear pedal or lever stucks and make the malufunction. if the lever is touching somewhere on the body part then change the lever....
3. if all the things are fine then ask your mech to check the star plate, the spring tension and gear selector assembly...
4. i don't know what u mean by clutch plates, did u change the fricton plates or the clutch plates. Clutch plates= steel plates and friction plates = the plate which has leather/asbestos grip on it.
5. also check for clutch spring tension and length..
some times the cylindrical selector gets worn out so the track becomes uneven for guiding the gears...
I hope I have helped you some or the otherway...
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Well i only hope the PBK people know this enough to not to put such oils on my bikeOriginally posted by silver_falcon_46 View Post I do know that beefier would mean thicker or simply "well built". I wasn't sure though if that's what the mech mentioned or if it was some other detail.
As for the edit, I saw you freaking out when someone said that the oil you were using was suitable for cars, I was trying to say that this would mean the oil is not meant for engines running wet clutch and would result in a pretty quick wear and tear of the clutch.
So that means when clutch plates are changed, the friction plates are not replaced? It seems strange that when the clutch plate itself is worn out, they wouldn't replace a grip plate which also would definitely be worn out. Other than that you've pretty much guided me through the whole gearbox to a strip upOriginally posted by Chinmay Dangre View Post1. go for motul 15W50 API-SM/MA2 grade..
P220 need 20W50 so 15W50 is suitable for ur motor.
MA2 complaint, so it is recommanded for wet clutch machines.
2. check the lever for moment, sometimes gear pedal or lever stucks and make the malufunction. if the lever is touching somewhere on the body part then change the lever....
3. if all the things are fine then ask your mech to check the star plate, the spring tension and gear selector assembly...
4. i don't know what u mean by clutch plates, did u change the fricton plates or the clutch plates. Clutch plates= steel plates and friction plates = the plate which has leather/asbestos grip on it.
5. also check for clutch spring tension and length..
some times the cylindrical selector gets worn out so the track becomes uneven for guiding the gears...
I hope I have helped you some or the otherway...
, Thanks nevertheless
I'm too intelligent to the unintended, and too dumb for the obvious.Comment
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I think this is the right place to ask this question. Hope the OP does not mind!
My P150's 4th gear has worn out a bit - the bike makes a sound while riding in that gear. Other than that no problems - gear shifts are butter smooth. So, I would like to know how difficult is it to change gears? Do we need to strip the engine right from the top - head, cylinder etc to access the gears or is it accessible from the LH crankcase cover?
And, if possible please mention the approx cost too.Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!Comment
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I think i'll PM a mod to rename this thread as my personal 200 grievance thread, i just lost my second speedo in one and a half years! I had already replaced the worm twice, and that is not including the whole speedo that was replaced after a crash. The stupid thing just shows zero when i'm riding and 177 at standstill! Why do Bajaj have such unreliable electricals/digitals it's not even a month past, since i've changed my entire switch gear because the hi-beam kept glowing all the f*cking time! And i had already replaced the starter once, what else is left? The CDI perhaps
I'm too intelligent to the unintended, and too dumb for the obvious.Comment
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Originally posted by EL LOCO DIABLO View PostWell i only hope the PBK people know this enough to not to put such oils on my bike
So that means when clutch plates are changed, the friction plates are not replaced? It seems strange that when the clutch plate itself is worn out, they wouldn't replace a grip plate which also would definitely be worn out. Other than that you've pretty much guided me through the whole gearbox to a strip up, Thanks nevertheless
Basically in clutch system both the plates are depending on each other. So I always prefer to change clutch and friction plate but while that I also check the clutch spring coz that also makes diff.....
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in 3 words:- strip the engine.Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostI think this is the right place to ask this question. Hope the OP does not mind!
My P150's 4th gear has worn out a bit - the bike makes a sound while riding in that gear. Other than that no problems - gear shifts are butter smooth. So, I would like to know how difficult is it to change gears? Do we need to strip the engine right from the top - head, cylinder etc to access the gears or is it accessible from the LH crankcase cover?
And, if possible please mention the approx cost too.Comment
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there are three wires for the speedo please check for the broken wire. The wire generally breaks from conenctor side which is near to steering stem or I should say near to front fairing. If you move the wire for sometime then speedo will suddenly start n jump to some stupid number..if it happens then there is a issue with wire...check it n let us know..well lol on starter and CDI but u can replace CDI anyways..soon I will try to get hold of CDI which will be without rev limiter...trying for athena...Originally posted by EL LOCO DIABLO View PostI think i'll PM a mod to rename this thread as my personal 200 grievance thread, i just lost my second speedo in one and a half years! I had already replaced the worm twice, and that is not including the whole speedo that was replaced after a crash. The stupid thing just shows zero when i'm riding and 177 at standstill! Why do Bajaj have such unreliable electricals/digitals it's not even a month past, since i've changed my entire switch gear because the hi-beam kept glowing all the f*cking time! And i had already replaced the starter once, what else is left? The CDI perhaps
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hi, abhiOriginally posted by abhichotu.abhi View Post@EL
Are you experiencing excessive vibrations when you revv your bike.
If so then get the balancer shaft adjusted by PBK saying him that bike is vibrating alot
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i have just changed clutch plates (normal plates+b type + stell plates) now i feel lot of vibrations on 80 and above speed. it wasn't there before.
can u elaborate this balancer shaft adjustment .Comment
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hi ,Originally posted by Chinmay Dangre View PostBasically in clutch system both the plates are depending on each other. So I always prefer to change clutch and friction plate but while that I also check the clutch spring coz that also makes diff.....
chinmay can u please explain what happen if spring not correct or how to check it.
i have just changed clutch plates and steel plates.Comment
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