Query Approved.

Yeah the battery does it always to the frame. I also had to go through same problem.

I go the chassis stripped down, gt the holes welded and covered and then got it painted. Now above battery where the battery water inlet plugs are there, I cover that area with a rubber (taken and cut from any tube) and also often I just apply white grease to the area of frame which keeps it intact and without any damage from battery water.

so try it and let me know the progress. All the best, ride safe

Best option would be to sand it down to the bare metal. and get metal filling done by a good welder. Just be careful not to heat the frame too much to warp it.

Alternatively you could use a metal plate to cover the hole after cleaning and re-inforce the frame.

the corrosion does not seem to have gone through.
first you need to grind it to bare metal and inspect it again. if the corrosion has not gone all the way through, you can get away with a touchup.

if the damage is deep, but restricted to a small area, you can do some brazing at a gas welder and patch it up.

if the corrosion has gone through more than 20% of the tubing, you have 3 choices.

in the order of preference... (depending on your budget)

1. get a new chassis.

2. do brazing of the exposed metal to stop further rusting. get a pipe slightly fatter than the chassis tubing, cut it longitudinally and weld it around the problem area to bypass the forces on the problem area. the welding must be done all the way around the tube to prevent distortion. dont weld a patch of metal on one side of the tubing, it needs to go all the way around. if this is done wrong, you will twist your chassis.

3. go to a gas welder and tell him to patch it up the best he can.

welding WILL distort the frame. the idea is to keep the distortion to a minimum.
welding too much will burn the factories antirust coating and you will get rust in new places, especially from the inside of the tubing.

pray the damage is small.

Thank you. I think it would've not gone deep since its a very new frame.

I'm taking the above points seriously & will remove the battery for now to prevent further damage. Never knew about the distortion stuff earlier. Thanks for the education. Will never consider to go in for welding, I'll braze the exposed metal & apply some paint & keep it oiled to prevent any further damages.

Once I fit in the battery, I'll follow this great idea. Thanks.

Maintaining proper level of water would help in future, I guess. Fill too much and it pours out along with the acid.

Happened with me too. This was before restoration. My technician used a sand paper and with Rs.100/- automotive black paint covered it up. Pretty neat actually. Later ofcourse, entire chassis was repainted.

Just wondering, would installing 'maintainence free' battery help?

EDIT: Did you get an approval from the R.T.O for the new chassis? If so, can you please let us know the process?

^^ simpler method for RTO approval is to punch the number of the old chassis on the new one, and destroy the numbers on the old one..

No need for any approval from RTO. I left my bike to Yamaha service centre, they got my bike assembled on to a new chassis & punched the chassis number according to the RC book. They provided me with an additional receipt stating that the frame had been changed at so & so date at so & so service station.

The last one is very important because, if you get to pay a GREEN-TAX, then the inspector at RTO verifies the chassis number. If it looks like it has been punched, in our case YES PUNCHED, then he would raise 100's of questions & deny the GREEN-TAX for which the receipt comes in handy.

How to make a neat job out of it? How to 'punch' I mean.

Thanks for the elaborate info Green-Tax? Don't know what that is. I never paid. I was worried about chassis number coz every five years we need to obtain Fitness Certificate.

^^ you get numerical punches for the same. Just etch a straight line and punch the number in with one good stroke.

When you buy the frame/chassis, its blank, means, it doesn't have any number to begin with. The chassis number has to be copied from the RC book to the frame. The numerical punch looks something like this...
http://www.toolstation.com/images/li...bbig/19757.jpg. So this is hammered in the frame.

GreenTax = Fitness Certificate

Oh I see. Something like our everyday seal.

Thanks for the link. Yeah I know there won't be a number on a new chassis I was curious to the process of 'stamping'. Now it is clear though

Guys, Thanks so much. Yesterday, I scrapped off the layer for about 3-4 seconds & to my surprise I saw the shiny bare metal & hence I applied black paint on it. Now, its just like new. Thanks again.

The battery is dead now & I think I've to go in for a new one & this time I'm going with maintenance free & most probably with Amaron.

160 RTR silencer rusting

Hi all,

MY RTR 160 is 6 months old. silencer part near the battery overflow pipe got rusted 2 months back and service center guy told that some acid from the pipe rusted that part and we have taken care now..how to fix that rust patch which is around 2 cm diameter..or it can be left as it is..



Vinoth