Query Approved.

@aargee - call me when free, ill give a few ideas..

LEDs for the meter clusters can be installed with a resistance in series to keep the voltage right. You get pre made led bulbs for the indicators/parking light.

@jd
I also want to fit LED's in my pilot lamps.
I have 2 leds as big as pilot lamps can i fit them directly on my P135LS as it have all DC electrical system.

Thanks JD, as always.
Could you point some link to show me some ready made led bulbs for the indicators/parking light. Trust me, I'm scared of electrical & electronics, so I'll get the job done by some auto electrician, but I'll also learn how to do it so that he doesn't take me around.

the leds are there in all shapes and sizes . the ones for cars/bikes also have inbuilt resistors for 12 v power . see image -

@Puneet - Inbuilt resistors??? That's fantastic to hear. Thanks for the pic.

Ok, so let me be refine the requirements further; I like to buy 5 white color LED's for the pilot lamps (neutral, highbeam, left & right turn signals & speedo meter), then 4 orange color LED's for the front & rear left & right indicators & a LED strip for the rear tail lamp.

I'll be using the 12V 5 amps battery, the battery may or may not be a maintainence free (suggestions invited); but would love to have a HID setup & if I'm not asking too much, the headlight doom will still give the look of RX. Basically to give a modern technology in the old motorcycle.

Let me ask you an all basic question. Does your bike have a DC or AC or mixed electrical system?

Bikes in India, till about two years ago had a AC+DC electrical system. Easy way to find out is, things that work when the bike is not started (but key is at ON) is DC. Things that need the engine on to work is AC. Provided your battery is working, otherwise nothing will work when the engine is off.

LEDs require a DC supply. Im not sure but i think HIDs need DC too. The incandecent bulbs you currently have will work fine on AC or DC of the same voltage.

So before you can think of LEDs you have to think of the power supply. Either you can do a full DC conversion or just add circuitry to the components you want to use LEDs with. Looking at your needs, which is LEDs everywhere, i think a full conversion is better.

EDIT: On second thought, i think your console lights, indicators and brake light will already have a DC supply. I am unfamiliar with the RX. If you can confirm this then the work becomes a lot easier. For your brakes and indicators you can use the ready made LEDs with holders mentioned above. I think white will do since the brake and indicators have covers of their respective colours.

EDIT 2 : Sorry, my mistake. You can't use white for all because the covers will filter most of the light. You will have to use respective colour LEDs. And how are the bulbs that are currently present in your console mounted? Soldered or have sockets?

^^ they sockets, and white LEDs will give the best meter illumination and info light back light.

@aargee - IMO go for a white light bulb first for the headlight. See how that comes out. A HID kit will involve a reworking of the wiring, and modifying the stator plate etc, to DC to provide the necessary power.

AC & DC both; DC to turn lights, one line to the tail lamp when the brakes are applied, neutral, highbeam, turn lights switch indicators & horn.

AC for headlights & 1 line to the rear tail lamp when the headlight is ON

Currently I'm planning a new set of wiring & hence no need to worry learning about the existing setup, I'm willing to change to a new setup from scratch.

HID requires a new battery as such, this is what I found out from a ZMA that had this setup.

I get the point here.

You're right.
AC & DC both; DC to turn lights, one line to the tail lamp when the brakes are applied, neutral, highbeam, turn lights switch indicators & horn. AC for headlights & 1 line to the rear tail lamp when the headlight is ON. I can use white LED as the respective cover has the coloring.


Oh!!! I thought white should do justice

Oh!!! but I thought the HID conversion was simple enough to pull a DC line from a new battery setup.

Will your wiring be custom or OEM?

HID will be your problem because:
1) You will need DC supply so custom wiring, routing through the switch, fuse, etc....
2)Battery charging
Eg: 55W HID, P=V.A, 55=12.A, A=~4.6 A
5Ah battery at 90% charge/efficiency 4.5Ah
4.5Ah/4.6A= 0.978h= 59minutes
So your HID will run for less than an hour before fully draining your battery. When the engine is on the battery will also be charged. Depending on your charger current the time will increase to a little more than an hour. And again an automotive battery should never be fully discharged. Most HID setups require charging unit upgrade.

I was thinking white LED will do too. But then yellow or orange is only a small part of the white spectrum. Those cool-white LEDs will have even less yellow or red. So the coloured covers will filter ~80% of the light making them very dim.

Check this link: Super Bright LEDs - Conversion to LED Car Bulbs

Do you know how the lights in your console are currently mounted?

^^ on the console they are mounted on spring type bulb holders. A smaller version of what we have in common household electricity bulbs. Actually even the indicator/taillight bulbs are mounted light that.

OE, but will try to replace the holders in the end to fit the LED's. I'll post the pic of the wiring harness & the end points today evening covering the tip of turn lights, pilot lamps & rear tail lamp.

Sorry that I didn't understand this quite well; but I'll go ahead to use the respective colored LED's for the turn light indicators, neutral, highbeam.

@Ayson - that insight explanation helps me. I'll drop the idea of HID for now. Reason? Like JD says, I may have to charge the additional battery too & not sure how to draw the current OR use the same battery which I'm not sure will be suitable. The HID setup I saw on both the motorcycles were ZMR/A.

So I'll go with LED setup for now. Thanks @Ayson & @JD for helping me understand the complexities.

How to use LED's for Turn Signals? LED's draw so much less power that the winker relay is not working/responding thinking it as a open circuit. Readymade ones are not available in my place.
Any ideas on how to make the LED's work like building 555 timer circuit etc?

Sorry Ayson & JD, here's the pic of the wiring harness & how the ends look like (now I realize that I need holders)