One question: Does this relay armature operate even if AC is fed to it? Other relays tend to chatter. But this one has AC ratings on it.
If not then can anyone suggest what kind of a circuit will work as an AC relay? The relay should be switched ON or OFF by the AC supply. CAn such a circuit be devised using transistors and all? Abhijeet please help... all other electronics gurus please reply!!

hi.. no not yet. will do while doing the HID. But your last words confusing me. i went to fit HId in my frnds bike and that guy cut the wires and used one switch kind of thing(relay i think) to route the AC for head lamp from coil to battery and from battery he connected hid ballast.

this is not the way ?

Pavan, why dont u use ur batt to operate ur relays? It wont take much power for the relay coil.

U can cut a single wire and make it full DC circuit. Cut the AC lighting out wire and feed the wire from the ign batt contact. Now everything will be on DC once u turn the key. This is just for re routing the wires. For using the HID, check for the relays are there in the wiring harness came along with that and for higher rated halos relays are must.

I hope its clear now.

No, that relay does not work on AC, it's the maximum rating the relay can work for, it' would still need DC to operate the coil.

We can have a solid state relay based on transistors, however again the maximum current it can take is again a barrier. It can be made though.

However the simplest of the solution is to just make a half-wave rectifier, or better a full-wave rectifier, just before the relay. You don't a CAP for it to work. I have always used this method on AC bikes where total DC is difficult, and it works flawlessly. You can have rectifiers with every relay separately.

I am already running a DC setup. It is necessary to cut power to the headlight line from the BCU so that the Starter may work. This is all for the same.
Ok so rectifier and a relay is the only option? Damn man! Damn the BCU!

Normally relays need DC. As Rahul has said, its easy enough to convert AC to DC using rectifiers and caps. Just make a half bridge rectifier + caps at the o/p.

Alright man! thanx!

Nano, sorry didn't read your post properly. Will upload snaps soon

yaa man, take your time..

i just want to see, that's all.

hi,

Can some provide the details of PULSAR UG4 full DC for how much current it provides at different rpms?

why don't you grab a multimeter and check it yourself ???

Yeah i know that nano ...thought somebody have it handy already.

any replies ?

see what he did will work, but that is not how it should be done.

if you are satisfied with just working of hid, then its okay.
your bike already has a 9 amp battery from factory, so the charging mechanism is enough for it to make HID work, but still in long runs your battery will run flat.
in traffic, its nightmare.

I've POSTED the right way on page 34 post no 334..

you can use stock switches, and use stock wires too, just have to make the bike all DC.
no need of all these extra switches to start headlight and so on..

i personally HATE anything ADD-ON to the bike's exterior, be it Auxillary lamps, be it a utility box, be it an extra horn or be it Extra switches too.

what you could have done, was get your bike made ALL DC and used stock switch with almost no cutting of wires to get your HID working, and it would have sorted out all your problems of battery drain ever, even in the future...
with hours of b2b traffic also your hid would be glowing like a star.

that's what i call the right way, maybe if you read this thread from scratch, you'll understand how i did each and every thing step by step, i had a lot of difficulties and problems too, but i still followed what i wanted to do,
gods of lighting like Sajjt, shreeni and Doc were also not very confident on what i really wanted.
but it happened and everyone helped me.

all i am trying to say is that just fancying a HID and fitting it on the bike is 1 thing, but getting something better from your machine with great inputs in another...

i personally feel that doing something and later on cribbing about it is pointless.

hence i say, do it the right way.

I cant believe I'm seeing this thread just today...
@NANO - congrats man. My initial plan was to put in a low beam projector and high beam P220 reflector setup like you. Had shelved it for the time being. But now you are the encouragement for that; as soon as my finances are stabilized .