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Originally posted by sibun
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I live in POKHARIPUT area in bhubaneswar. It is near the airport o i can say i live behind the airport.
Regarding your top speed, have you crouched because in HUNK we sit more upright than extreme, so the wind blast is high. And do not red-line the bike always. It is a proven fact that redlining always decreases engine life.
I think your engine is running slightly rich which is not letting the engine rev. Lean the mixture by 100 rpm and test. A rich mixture will not allow the engine to rev hard.
Actually the resigrip is a gasket sealant and is used on head gasket. But these idiots use M-seal which becomes difficult to remove. The resigrip is a jelly type gel which is easier to remove.
You can see there website, they have every type of adhesives.
Resinova:-
AUTOMOBILE ADHESIVES
And regarding your bore it is a good practice to keep the bike from redlining everyday. Its because red-line is given the name because it is a danger zone for engine and should be reached in special cases and not always. 100 Kph is more than enough for everyday highways as in INDIA everybody try to show bike riders finger. Be it pedestrians, cyclist or car owners, they do not care about bikes.
But an engine not reaching top speed is a problem and must be looked at. Even my JOY touches 110 kph on speedo regularly.
There is nothing to worry. Just take it to a mechanic and he will open it. Also if those screws are not available then there is a trick, go to scooter spares shop and ask him to give scooter(bajaj chetak) headlight screws. They are direct fit and actually better as they are flat headed screw and thus will open with flat screw driver. But the OE are philips headed screw and get damaged while opening.
For opening without damage follow these procedure:-
1. Get a thin scooter(bajaj) bore stud.
2. Hit the top of screw with the stud by hammer.
3. Use a good quality(TAPARIA) philips head screw driver whose edges are sharp and with both hands press upon the screw with force.
4. Then ask some one with plier to hold the handle of screw driver and give a sudden twist. This will loosen the screw.
5. Follow the same on other screw and after loosening use only screw driver to open it.
Regarding master cylinder kit and caliper kit. No need of those at 10k if your oil is not contaminated with water. Heck, if required go for master cylinder lit and no need of caliper kit.
The master cylinder kit consist of :-
1. Piston and spring
2. The pushrod for piston to lever
3. The cir-clip which holds the piston in master cylinder
The Caliper kit consist of:-
1. Two pistons
2. Oil seals
Usually the caliper kit doesn't get damaged. If the pistons are not returning then only the oil seals are cleaned.
But at 10k no need of those. Usually get KBX and they are best and BYBRE is nothing but joint venture between BREMBO and KBX.
The master cylinder kit for kbx is Rs.240.
No need of yours and just follow my step:-
1. Cover the tank and visor with cloth as brake fluid will damage paint.
2. Remove the lever from the bolt.
3. Take out the tiny pushrod along with lever.
4. Take a thin screw driver and push the piston and with other hand using a cir-clip remover remove the cir clip.
5. slowly remove the screw driver and the piston along with spring will come out.
6. Clean the piston with spirit and wipe with cloth.
7. Sludge on piston will cause the piston not return and reduce brake efficiency,feel and jam the pad to disc.
8. Now insert the piston and push it with screw driver. Fit the cir clip in original position with the cir clip remover and the open end of cir clip will face its original direction.
9. Now fit the lever with the push rod.
This will remove all problems of brake feel and efficiency.
Now open the master cylinder cover as opening the piston would have inserted air.
Follow these steps:-
1. Soak all the brake fluid using sponge.
2. Pour new brake fluid upto the max level
3. Do not open the bleeder nipple on the caliper.
4. Slowly press the lever. You will see air bubbles rising.Do it slowly or the brake fluid will shoot with pressure.After bubble stops release lever
5. Continue this till bubbles stop rising.
6. By this we have removed all air
Now we will replace the old oil. By doing the above process you have removed the air but have not replaced the old fluid.
Now to replace old fluid follow this.
You need two persons for this.
1. Fix a transparent pipe on the bleeder nipple and dip it in a bottle so that the brake fluid doesn't fall on the alloys and caliper. You can get the pipe in spares shop, where you ask them for cheap transparent petrol pipe.
2. Fill the reservoir with fluid and just place the cap on reservoir.
3. Now press the lever hard.
4. Let the other person open the bleeder nipple lightly. The fluid will come out through pipe.
5. The lever will get pressed till the handle. Do not leave the lever when bleeder nipple is open or it will suck air.
6. Keeping the lever pressed tighten the bleeder nipple.
7. Once again keep pressing the lever and loosen bleeder. tighten nipple and then release lever.
8. Open the reservoir cap and check level and re-fill. Go on doing this till new oil comes out.
9. After new oil comes out. check level and fit back the reservoir seal and cap.
Brake overhaul is complete.
Regarding your top speed, have you crouched because in HUNK we sit more upright than extreme, so the wind blast is high. And do not red-line the bike always. It is a proven fact that redlining always decreases engine life.
I think your engine is running slightly rich which is not letting the engine rev. Lean the mixture by 100 rpm and test. A rich mixture will not allow the engine to rev hard.
Actually the resigrip is a gasket sealant and is used on head gasket. But these idiots use M-seal which becomes difficult to remove. The resigrip is a jelly type gel which is easier to remove.
You can see there website, they have every type of adhesives.
Resinova:-
AUTOMOBILE ADHESIVES
And regarding your bore it is a good practice to keep the bike from redlining everyday. Its because red-line is given the name because it is a danger zone for engine and should be reached in special cases and not always. 100 Kph is more than enough for everyday highways as in INDIA everybody try to show bike riders finger. Be it pedestrians, cyclist or car owners, they do not care about bikes.
But an engine not reaching top speed is a problem and must be looked at. Even my JOY touches 110 kph on speedo regularly.
There is nothing to worry. Just take it to a mechanic and he will open it. Also if those screws are not available then there is a trick, go to scooter spares shop and ask him to give scooter(bajaj chetak) headlight screws. They are direct fit and actually better as they are flat headed screw and thus will open with flat screw driver. But the OE are philips headed screw and get damaged while opening.
For opening without damage follow these procedure:-
1. Get a thin scooter(bajaj) bore stud.
2. Hit the top of screw with the stud by hammer.
3. Use a good quality(TAPARIA) philips head screw driver whose edges are sharp and with both hands press upon the screw with force.
4. Then ask some one with plier to hold the handle of screw driver and give a sudden twist. This will loosen the screw.
5. Follow the same on other screw and after loosening use only screw driver to open it.
Regarding master cylinder kit and caliper kit. No need of those at 10k if your oil is not contaminated with water. Heck, if required go for master cylinder lit and no need of caliper kit.
The master cylinder kit consist of :-
1. Piston and spring
2. The pushrod for piston to lever
3. The cir-clip which holds the piston in master cylinder
The Caliper kit consist of:-
1. Two pistons
2. Oil seals
Usually the caliper kit doesn't get damaged. If the pistons are not returning then only the oil seals are cleaned.
But at 10k no need of those. Usually get KBX and they are best and BYBRE is nothing but joint venture between BREMBO and KBX.
The master cylinder kit for kbx is Rs.240.
No need of yours and just follow my step:-
1. Cover the tank and visor with cloth as brake fluid will damage paint.
2. Remove the lever from the bolt.
3. Take out the tiny pushrod along with lever.
4. Take a thin screw driver and push the piston and with other hand using a cir-clip remover remove the cir clip.
5. slowly remove the screw driver and the piston along with spring will come out.
6. Clean the piston with spirit and wipe with cloth.
7. Sludge on piston will cause the piston not return and reduce brake efficiency,feel and jam the pad to disc.
8. Now insert the piston and push it with screw driver. Fit the cir clip in original position with the cir clip remover and the open end of cir clip will face its original direction.
9. Now fit the lever with the push rod.
This will remove all problems of brake feel and efficiency.
Now open the master cylinder cover as opening the piston would have inserted air.
Follow these steps:-
1. Soak all the brake fluid using sponge.
2. Pour new brake fluid upto the max level
3. Do not open the bleeder nipple on the caliper.
4. Slowly press the lever. You will see air bubbles rising.Do it slowly or the brake fluid will shoot with pressure.After bubble stops release lever
5. Continue this till bubbles stop rising.
6. By this we have removed all air
Now we will replace the old oil. By doing the above process you have removed the air but have not replaced the old fluid.
Now to replace old fluid follow this.
You need two persons for this.
1. Fix a transparent pipe on the bleeder nipple and dip it in a bottle so that the brake fluid doesn't fall on the alloys and caliper. You can get the pipe in spares shop, where you ask them for cheap transparent petrol pipe.
2. Fill the reservoir with fluid and just place the cap on reservoir.
3. Now press the lever hard.
4. Let the other person open the bleeder nipple lightly. The fluid will come out through pipe.
5. The lever will get pressed till the handle. Do not leave the lever when bleeder nipple is open or it will suck air.
6. Keeping the lever pressed tighten the bleeder nipple.
7. Once again keep pressing the lever and loosen bleeder. tighten nipple and then release lever.
8. Open the reservoir cap and check level and re-fill. Go on doing this till new oil comes out.
9. After new oil comes out. check level and fit back the reservoir seal and cap.
Brake overhaul is complete.
