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Want to control an added accessory like fog lamps without adding and additional switch?
Want to have your DRLs on all the time?
No problem.
Level – Quite simple and straightforward
Requirements:
Nothing much really
Tools:
Wire cutters/strippers
Insulation tape / heat shrink tubing
Soldering equipment helps
Multimeter helps if you know how to use the continuity function
Screwdriver
Spanners if required
Intro:
By default, this is how a motorcycle headlight switch is wired:
We are going to re-wire it to work like this:
Step 1: Unmount your switch
The steps and tools for this will vary from model to model. Take help from a mechanic if you need it.
Also note that it is not absolutely necessary to remove the switch from your vehicle, but it makes it a lot easier to work with. Also disconnect the couplers at the end of the wires from wherever they may be connected. Although the wires and couplers are all colour coded for easy reinstallation, it is always better to make a note of what goes where.
Step 2: Cut the wires
It is generally easier to cut all the wires cleanly off and then strip and rewire them in the new configuration. First cut back the rubber cover to expose the wires, then cut the wires about 40~50 mm from the coupler.
There are 4 main wires that you should be concerned with:
Wire that brings supply for the headlight – Most likely Yellow
Wire that brings supply for Pilot lamp, starter switch, brake light, etc – Most likely Black
Wire that takes power to headlight – Most likely Blue with White stripe
Wire that takes power to pilot lamp – Most likely Brown
The above colour coding convention is followed by Honda and Hero. While I assume that most other manufacturers may also follow the same convention, there is no guarantee.
A multimeter will help here in finding the right wires. Pick a pair of wires. There should be no continuity between them with switch off. There should be continuity between them with switch in central and headlight on position – The Pilot Lamp wires.
.Pick a pair of wires. There should be no continuity between them with switch off and in central position. There should be continuity between them with switch in headlight on position – The Head Light wires.
Step 3: Rewiring
Rewire the 4 wires as shown.
The stock wires are connected like this:
Black wire brings supply from battery when ignition key is ON
Yellow wire brings supply from ACG through RR when engine is ON
Current flows from Black into Brown when switch is in central and headlight on position.
Current flows from Yellow into Striped when switch is in headlight on position
Explanation of the connections made:
Red wire: Connecting the Pilot lamp to voltage supply before the switch – this will make the Pilot lamp (and speedometer lighting, and rear position and number plate lamp – they are all connected on the same line. Difficult to separate) come on when ignition key is turned.
Purple wire: Providing supply to Black and Yellow wires going into the switch so that current comes from somewhere to power the Brown and Striped wires coming out of the switch.
Alternatively, these connections can be made to the Red wire. This will allow headlight and accessory to be turned on even when engine is off.
Orange wire: The Brown wire coming out of the switch used to go to the Pilot lamp. This wire will now carry current to the headlight instead when the switch is in the central position and headlight on position.
Green wire: This wire will carry current from the switch to any accessory that you connect to it, so the other end of this is to be connected to whatever you need. However, due to the way that the connections have been made, the headlight comes on before the accessory, so you cannot use the accessory but have the headlight off. So, best accessories to connect here are auxiliary lighting to support the headlight in extra dark conditions (This is what I am using it for)
Step 4: Reinstall, and done
Reinstall the switch and reconnect all the couplers. The free end of the Green wire can be connected to whatever accessory you wish to use. If you do not have the accessory up and running yet, better to keep the loose end of this wire covered with insulation tape, and carefully tied somewhere.
Other variations of connections:
Will be part of a follow-up post. PM me if you would like some customized combination
So enjoy your modding, and PM me if you need any help. I’ve got quite a slew of mods to go along this one.
Custom design DRL
Helmet holder off the back of the bike
USB Charger
LED winkers
Reflective graphics
Rewiring for Aftermarket (Xenon/HID) Headlights
… just to name a few.
Want to have your DRLs on all the time?
No problem.
Level – Quite simple and straightforward
Requirements:
Nothing much really
Tools:
Wire cutters/strippers
Insulation tape / heat shrink tubing
Soldering equipment helps
Multimeter helps if you know how to use the continuity function
Screwdriver
Spanners if required
Intro:
By default, this is how a motorcycle headlight switch is wired:
We are going to re-wire it to work like this:
Step 1: Unmount your switch
The steps and tools for this will vary from model to model. Take help from a mechanic if you need it.
Also note that it is not absolutely necessary to remove the switch from your vehicle, but it makes it a lot easier to work with. Also disconnect the couplers at the end of the wires from wherever they may be connected. Although the wires and couplers are all colour coded for easy reinstallation, it is always better to make a note of what goes where.
Step 2: Cut the wires
It is generally easier to cut all the wires cleanly off and then strip and rewire them in the new configuration. First cut back the rubber cover to expose the wires, then cut the wires about 40~50 mm from the coupler.
There are 4 main wires that you should be concerned with:
Wire that brings supply for the headlight – Most likely Yellow
Wire that brings supply for Pilot lamp, starter switch, brake light, etc – Most likely Black
Wire that takes power to headlight – Most likely Blue with White stripe
Wire that takes power to pilot lamp – Most likely Brown
The above colour coding convention is followed by Honda and Hero. While I assume that most other manufacturers may also follow the same convention, there is no guarantee.
A multimeter will help here in finding the right wires. Pick a pair of wires. There should be no continuity between them with switch off. There should be continuity between them with switch in central and headlight on position – The Pilot Lamp wires.
.Pick a pair of wires. There should be no continuity between them with switch off and in central position. There should be continuity between them with switch in headlight on position – The Head Light wires.
Step 3: Rewiring
Rewire the 4 wires as shown.
The stock wires are connected like this:
Black wire brings supply from battery when ignition key is ON
Yellow wire brings supply from ACG through RR when engine is ON
Current flows from Black into Brown when switch is in central and headlight on position.
Current flows from Yellow into Striped when switch is in headlight on position
Explanation of the connections made:
Red wire: Connecting the Pilot lamp to voltage supply before the switch – this will make the Pilot lamp (and speedometer lighting, and rear position and number plate lamp – they are all connected on the same line. Difficult to separate) come on when ignition key is turned.
Purple wire: Providing supply to Black and Yellow wires going into the switch so that current comes from somewhere to power the Brown and Striped wires coming out of the switch.
Alternatively, these connections can be made to the Red wire. This will allow headlight and accessory to be turned on even when engine is off.
Orange wire: The Brown wire coming out of the switch used to go to the Pilot lamp. This wire will now carry current to the headlight instead when the switch is in the central position and headlight on position.
Green wire: This wire will carry current from the switch to any accessory that you connect to it, so the other end of this is to be connected to whatever you need. However, due to the way that the connections have been made, the headlight comes on before the accessory, so you cannot use the accessory but have the headlight off. So, best accessories to connect here are auxiliary lighting to support the headlight in extra dark conditions (This is what I am using it for)
Step 4: Reinstall, and done
Reinstall the switch and reconnect all the couplers. The free end of the Green wire can be connected to whatever accessory you wish to use. If you do not have the accessory up and running yet, better to keep the loose end of this wire covered with insulation tape, and carefully tied somewhere.
Other variations of connections:
Will be part of a follow-up post. PM me if you would like some customized combination
So enjoy your modding, and PM me if you need any help. I’ve got quite a slew of mods to go along this one.
Custom design DRL
Helmet holder off the back of the bike
USB Charger
LED winkers
Reflective graphics
Rewiring for Aftermarket (Xenon/HID) Headlights
… just to name a few.
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