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My RX 135 JERKS while throttle close, spark plug fouls..

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  • My RX 135 JERKS while throttle close, spark plug fouls..

    Hi Team,

    I have been scratching my head over this problem.
    Being a Yamaha (2 stroke) lover, I managed to buy this beast. Its a 2002 make, running 47k on odo. Stock condition engine with a standard size piston.
    After I became the 2nd owner for this beast, I decided to give a complete cosmetic touch-up - which I got done after spending few thousands.
    The engine seems alright, except the problem of "jerking". I thought this problem will be killed after I give her a good service, but its still there
    Being keen enough to restore my bike and not to lose any parts - I got all the work done under my supervision (infact brought the engine stock at home while the bike remained dismanteled in the workshop).
    My intention is to have this machine in stock condition as long as I am alive, and thats the reason struggling to get all the bits together.
    I am a good rider and have this bike as a commuter (30 KM approx use/day). Hardly cross speed of 60 Kmph, and mostly stick to the economic range of 40-50 Kmph

    Problems:
    1. At any gear position, when I go over a certain speed (say 10 - and high) and close the throttle, she behaves very weird. I mean the deceleration is not smooth at all.
    It gives heavy jerks as if someone is pulling and then pushing the bike while the throttle is closed. So to get rid of this, I pull the clutch and then it gives a momentory relief. And this continues untill she comes down to 20. Thought this was a clutch related problem so got the OE pressure housing and also removed the play in the clutch bell and also got the new rubber dampners installed. But no use.
    Is this a damaged piston which is causing this, or the exhaust port covered with carbon ? Never got the silencer decarbonized.
    The head was cleaned and the piston as well before the assembly.

    My mechanic suggested to change the reed valve, but I wonder this will resolve the problem as the reed valve is a vibratory unit which is to provide better AF mixture to the cylinder.
    can this be a ignition timing problem, may be its delayed

    2. The biggest problem - I have blewed up 4th spark plug in mere 300 Km of run. It initiated with the starting problem. Then took her down to the mechanic and saw the spark plug. The plug had life, so got it cleaned and installed back. The bike started fine. But I identified that the spark plug was black in color as if dipped in the oil. I know this is not a good sign. But gave it a try. And it worked well another couple of days. And one fine day the bike got off while at 50 Km/hr.. bhuurrrrr bhurrr.. and that's it - engine cut off. I had to get the plug changed. Now this new one lasted for another 60 Km's. Again it was fouled. Got a new one installed and so on... Every time the engine gets too hot after around 10 Kms of run and I see that the color of the electrode is not reddish neither it is dry. Its black. (Plug type - MICO BOSCH)
    IIs this due to worned piston rings - am I correct on this as I guess this is the predominant source of leting the oil uptil the spark plug.
    And also the bike smokes more. I understand that these machines are meant for smoking, but comparatively its more.
    2T oil - Castrol
    The carb is tuned to have economic mixture which is not that rich.
    I am running on AUTOLUBE.

    3. When I try to maintain a constant throttle on the highways, say if I am maintaining 45 Kmph, the engine tends to lose power and I feel that the fuel flow is not constant and can hear that lag in the sound. So to again maitain the speed to 45, I slightly overcome the lag with the slightly extra throttle.
    Is there something wrong with the carb jets ?
    Can this be rectified by disassembling and cleaning the carb thoroughly again and install the components like needle throttle valve, main and pilot jets which comes in a NATCO carb repair KIT ?
    Is NATCO carb repair kit alright ? Can this kit give me a mileage of around 38-40 KMPL ?

    Well I guess the bore has lost its compression now (never got a compression test done though) but the below said factors are observed:
    - Ring /abnormal sounds from the cylinder.
    - Throttle response is OKAY - but it is not that good.
    - Mileage 25 KMPL.

    Well, as this problem is related to much of the engine and its associated parts, I would like to tell you that I have replaced the below parts:

    (All genuine Yamaha parts):

    Clutch plates and pressure plates
    OE Clutch seal
    OE air filter
    All cables
    Harness
    clutch Rod
    carburetor manifold.
    Clutch pressure housing.

    Never thought I would need anything else apart from the ones mentioned above to get this bike running smoother. But I guess I was wrong.

    Could the experts here in this forum please advice and guide me which string of this machine shall be touched so as to get her back to smoother life.
    I have enquired about the piston rings, but could not procure one - as most of the dealers say that the rings come in a set with the piston kit. If piston rings are the main culprits then could you please suggest any source to purchase the piston rings alone.
    I am from Chennai.

    The reliability has come into question now and there is only one question in my mind when I go to bed everyday, how do I rectify these problems.

    DOCTORS - Please shed some expertise. . I am really waiting eagerly to sort this problem.

    Many thanks
    Stop at RED and go at GREEN !!!

  • #2
    Thread Approved and Moved
    Advice is a form of nostalgia.
    Dispensing it is a way of fishing the past from the disposal, wiping it off, painting over the ugly parts and recycling it for more than it's worth.

    Antz Travelz!! | South India Exploration Ride | Leh Triplog (Work in progress)

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi Augmentor, Welcome to the forum. Here what i feel you should do now.

      Looks like your bike is fouling plugs.
      1. Check engine compression.

      2. Inspect your stator plate[coil plate] if it has its slots enlarged to change the timing.

      3. Inspect your HT coil and lead wire to the plug.

      4. Inspect reed valve. make sure there its closed properly and the rubber is intact.

      5. Check for airleaks around the powerbox and its pipe at the manifold.

      6. Check what size jets and other carb parts you are running. They should be genuine Mikuni.
      1985 Yamaha RD350 HT
      1989 Ki-Honda 110
      1994 Suzuki Shogun
      1997 Yamaha RX135
      2008 Yamaha FZ
      Suzuki Supra Powerup
      IND-SUZUKI AX100
      Hero IMPULSE
      TVS NTORQ


      No Cams, No Valves, No Headaches.

      Comment


      • #4
        Augmentor,

        As you requested Dr. Nitesh (no joke) has given your a checklist for your issues.

        Don't rush to open the engine right away. What you are going through has been faced by many. If you are not hearing unusual noise from engine, then the issue might not be that critical. Carb fouling could also be due to excess 2T oil flow, so kindly check the caliberation by opening the oil pump cover.

        You'll need to clean the carburetor compeltely. Jet (Pilot, Main), bowl, body etc. Check the AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) too, usually Air Screw in the carb is set at 1-1/4 - 1-1/2 turns out (Anti-clock wise after completely closing it toward clockwise) which is regarded as optimum however, there might be some plus minus to find the right setting.

        Let trouble shoot the issue one by one, then mileage.

        I will watch for your updates.
        RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011

        2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud

        Comment


        • #5
          As the DOC said.. Check your Timing and Compression. The rings are mostly gone.

          Then Clean your carburetor thoroughly. Take it apart, both jets, the air holes, emulsion tube n all. Check if parts like float arm, pin, slide and needle are in good condition.

          Check if the oil pump is functioning properly. When I got my RX, my pump was stuck in fully open mode and I fouled a plug every two days. It will be better to service it.
          Another small thing to check is the slackness of the oil pump cable. Make sure that it is properly inserted in to the engine case and not loose at the insertion point.
          HYPERTHRUST CLEARED AND COUNTING
          5.....4.....3....2.....1

          sigpic

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi All, thanks for your responses so far.

            @ Yamdoot - The slots on the coil are intact and are in the stock condition.
            - I shall get the coil checked over a couple of days time.
            - When I opened up the carb manifold and removed the Reed valve, I was surprised to see the chuck of 2T oil residue over the bore inlet. It was a very sluggy black residue.
            This gives a clear evidence that oil pump is running nasty. I have removed the oil pump for now and installed a new Reed valve. I shall run the bike for around 200 kms on
            Pre-mix. Hopefully this shall help me to identify the problem of frequent fouled spark plugs.
            - For now I have cleaned the carb thoroughly and installed new pilot and main jets (caliberations- 17.5 and 160) (could not find 165 mains).
            - As mentioned in the problem list - there is a slight unsual noise fromt he cylinder while the engine is running at any RPM. I suspected this is a piston clearance problem and
            guess what, I was right when I opened up the cylinder. The piston ring gap (clearance between the two end tangs of the piston ring) was considerably more (while the
            rings in installed position inside the cylinder). I got a set of SAM piston rings just to check if this could contribute in bringing up the compression. And surprisingly these piston
            rings fit well and when I checked the gap, the two tangs of the piston rings are pretty close to each other. Hopefully this shall give me another approx 3.5K kms of run.
            - Also changed the transmission seal and the clutch seal (once again).

            @ Sriram -
            Now since I have opened up the engine (sorry didnt see youe earlier post), I shall clean the carb properly and shall tune it as you instructed.
            hopefully this shall definately resolve the problem of fouled spark plugs.
            And eventually we shall work on the mileage issue. well said :-)

            Team, I have also given the silencer for de-carbonization. Hopefully I shall receive it today. I did this just to make sure the exit port remains clean and could contribute in removing the jerks.
            In the mean time, I shall look for the caliberation of the oil pump. I have got the OE oil seal kit for the oil pump. Need to overhaul the pump.
            @Sri - Any inputs where can I find a good place for oil pump caliberation. So that I can get back to auto lube at the earliest.

            Once all the things are in place, I shall take a ride and test for all the existing problems. Shall post soon.

            Many Thanks once again.
            Stop at RED and go at GREEN !!!

            Comment


            • #7
              I had a similar problem and was also really irritated to try all possible options but the problem didn't go.

              Ridiculously the problem was simple which worked for me, the tank was painted at rebuild stage and the petrol outlet got narrowed due to the paint outside and epoxy inside. The petrol wasn't being supplied properly to my carb from the petrol tap due to this. Also the hole in the petrol cap was very narrow. Just widened these both a bit and bingo.

              Do post a few pics of your ride too bro !
              Code:
              [FONT=lucida console]It ain't important how fast u are drivin, its how u drive fast.[/FONT]

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by The Great View Post
                I had a similar problem and was also really irritated to try all possible options but the problem didn't go.

                Ridiculously the problem was simple which worked for me, the tank was painted at rebuild stage and the petrol outlet got narrowed due to the paint outside and epoxy inside. The petrol wasn't being supplied properly to my carb from the petrol tap due to this. Also the hole in the petrol cap was very narrow. Just widened these both a bit and bingo.

                Do post a few pics of your ride too bro !
                I have checked the tank for possible obstructions to the fuel. But unfortunately this is not the problem. Also checked the fuel tank vent hole as you said, and the vent is free of foriegn objects. Also got a OE fuel tap installed during the rebuild.
                Stop at RED and go at GREEN !!!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Then surely you gotta try what Doc and Sri say. I know how I feel restless until I rectify the probs on my bike. And this forum has a lot of great guys to help.
                  Code:
                  [FONT=lucida console]It ain't important how fast u are drivin, its how u drive fast.[/FONT]

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hi Team,
                    Got the silencer cleaned this eve. Struggled a lot to figure out where to do the liquid cleaning, phewww but could not locate any facility.
                    Finally a guy told me that he knows someone who does good job on the cat con type cleaning without cutting it. I was surprised and suspected if this could be another welding torch type from outside. But guess what it was a complete Desi (country) style. He cleaned it with a hand powered burner (similar to the ones they use to fry a CORN on a road side stall).
                    This stuff went in and out and got rid of most of the residue. Only thing I was concerned here was the flame control and was just fingers crossed, and it went well.
                    Now I have given the silencer for painting. Hopefully should be ready cured by tomorrow eve. And if all goes good then shall bring all the things together and take a test.

                    Thanks
                    Stop at RED and go at GREEN !!!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi Team,

                      Got all the bits and pieces together last night.
                      And I am very glad that the jerks are almost nill now. I guess the remaining ones just require a little more fine tuning.

                      Processes done as listed:

                      1. New OE reed valve
                      2. New piston rings (SAM Pistons)
                      3. Carburetor jetting
                      4. Crankshaft seal and clutch seal changed. Though there was no drop observed in transmission oil
                      5. OE friction plates
                      6. Silencer decarbonized thoroughly
                      7. Ignition coil checked for healthy reasons
                      8. Oil pump removed and due for caliberation. Running on pre-mix at the moment

                      As per the recordings since last night - The bike is running smooth and with a new crispy and much clear sound (clean silencer of-course).
                      I believe if I would have started the rectification from point 8 (oil pump), I could have picked the right string at right time without disturbing other parts.
                      But precisely speaking the other mentioned rectifications are also pretty close to these sort of troubles - So eventually I ended up giving all the shots in a sequence.
                      But I also made sure that the bike was tested after each component/part change and I did so (Tested over a spare chrome silencer). So as to capture the difference.

                      Improvements -
                      - The noises from the cylinder (as mentioned in my first post) are significantly reduced
                      - 1/8 -1/4 throttle response is improved a lot
                      - Jerks reduced to almost nill
                      - spark plug readings are good ( 2 readings captured at 50 Kms interval). The electrode color is good brown so far. Except for some signs of oil over the last couple of threads. (I guess this is because of the 10 ml extra oil per ltr I am pre-mixing at the moment (for the good operation of new piston rings). Please correct me if I am wrong here.

                      Hopefully the rest of the readings go good.

                      Doctors - please bring in your views if I need to take some more precautions or more actions required for the above mentioned set of rectifications.

                      Thanks a lot Team.
                      I shall post the pictures soon.
                      Stop at RED and go at GREEN !!!

                      Comment

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