Day 16 – 1st July – Leh – Chang La – Pangong Tso – Tangste – 170km

With just over 160km to do we decided that we will take a good night’s sleep after many days and start late.

Started around 10a.m after a heavy breakfast and were outside the city in 15minutes. Pangong Tso is on the other side of Leh and one has to take the Leh – Manali highway till Karu and then take a left and head towards ChangLa on way to Pangong.

The roads around Leh town are considerably good except for the snow line area around Mountain passes. After many days of hard riding on broken roads we also liked the smooth tarmac and it bring a smile on our face.

On way to Chang la


The climb for Changla starts at Zingral and for the first time in the whole trip my bike faced issues of power loss. Even while climbing Khardungla I didn’t faced any issues while Nitin faced some power loss. But here the loss is prominent on both the bikes. The climb to Changla is more steep than Khardungla and considered more difficult than KhardungLa but I didn’t felt any difference other than the fact that there were more snow all around and more black ice on road.

On reaching the top we enjoyed the stay much more than Khardung as it was less chaotic with hardly 2-3 cabs and there was hardly any enthusiastic tourist who wanted to pose a picture or two with the board saying Chang La. We were at peace and enjoyed the surrounding alongwith the best herbal tea I had till date served at the army canteen.

Chang La conquered






ChangLa Baba Mandir


The ride down was tricky and was far more challenging with more black ice and slippery stretches where you had to be very careful and cautious so as to avoid falling. Thoughts of tomorrow when we are supposed to take the same stretch again for the ride back in the morning clouded our mind as we had planned to cross this stretch in the morning which means more black ice and far more challenging condition and our fear came true the next morning.

The ride after crossing the snow line was pleasant all the way till Tangste where we stopped for our Lunch. With no non-veg affair we settled for veg fried rice.

On way to Tangste




Finally started for the last 30km for Pangong around 2p.m and we were greeted by herds of sheep and yaks on both sides of road. Stopped for quite a few times for pictures. I was quite surprised to see sand all around the road in this part as I was not expecting it at all.

Herds of sheep


And we see sand again






Beautiful patterns



After riding for 26odd kms we had the first view of Pangong from Lukung and we both were visibly disappointed. Till date whatever pictures we had seen of Pangong its all crystal clear blue water and here we see a lifeless Pangong lake in front of us without any colour or hues.

In another 15minutes we reached the lake and it was still the same but far off we could finally see some blue colour and then we realised that as it was completely overcast the lake was looking lifeless. The sun rays play a major role in making the Pangong look mesmerising blue.

Pangong Tso is situated at a height of about 4,350 m (14,270 ft). It is 134 km long and extends from India to China. 60% of the length of the lake lies in China. The lake is 5 km wide at its broadest point. During winter the lake freezes completely, despite the fact that the water is salty.

Pangong Tso - The name says it all





Still_gawing_at_the_beauty_that_Pangong_had_to_off er


The stretch where 3 idiots was shot


The lake in itself is very beautiful and blue just adds to its charm. The place is so serene so beautiful so majestic so peaceful that its difficult to pen down the feeling that one goes through. You feel one with the nature and loves to get completely lost at such a place. We were very lucky that when we reached almost all the tourists left the place and we were the only two souls left at that place and lake was all ours.

After a brief photo session Nitin suggested that we discover the place where 3 Idiots was shot. I was up for the idea and soon we found the place. There were marks of diesel at the lake shore and we both were furious to see this. At many other places we saw plastic bottles being thrown into the lake.

It’s a honest request to whoever visit the place. If you can’t respect the place then please don’t visit the place.

More pictures from the lake


One_of_the_best_momories_of_the_trip_riding_alongs ide_Pangong














After spending some good 3hours around the lake we decided to head back to Tangste for the night as almost all the tents around the lake were full and one of the main reason why I wanted to stay around the lake was to take some night shots but with overcast skies it means it’s almost impossible to get some decent pictures at night.

Reached Tangste in an hour and the first thing I looked around was petrol as I low on fuel. Luckily found petrol at one of the stores for 75 bucks for 750ml. Didn’t pay much heed to the price as I needed some fuel for my steed.

Settled in a small hotel and had an early dinner of rice, dal and caulifllower curry and for the first time in the trip Nitin liked something which is not non veg. The home made food did the trick for him. We dozed off early as tomorrow we will have a very long day.

MG bhai

The story will be completed for sure. No I didn't have a moustache at any point of time

Some more pictures from Pangong Tso

[/MENTION]
read then whole log.. The little details make it really interesting..
Ride safe and have more rides for long

Thanks
Will complete this one in the next few days. Trying to finish my old threads one by one, completed one few days back and now its time to finish this one . Once I finish this will move to another thread

Day 17th – 2nd July – Tangste – Leh – Kargil – Drass – 410km

Today is the start of our journey back. The temptation of doing it a full circle and taking the Leh – Manali way was always there but since we are supposed to take a train from Amritsar back to Mumbai on 4th we decided to go back the same way and like everyone say Leave something for next time.

The plan for today is Drass which is approx. 400km from Tansgte. Both of us knew that it will be one of the hardest days of riding in the whole trip.

Started at around 6.00a.m, the aim was to reach Leh by 9.00 pick your bags have breakfast and leave by 10. It was very very cold and even though we were wearing multiple layers we could feel the chill down n our spine, the hands were getting completely numb in 15minutes of riding. Had to take a couple of breaks to get back life on our numb hands and we finally reached Tsoltak the base of Changla by 7.00a.m.

After a brief stop we started for the climb for Chang La which we both us knew is the most difficult part of today’s ride. Till now we haven’t seen a single vehicle coming from the other side and we were the first ones to conquer ChangLa from the side which is more far trickier than the other side. The weather was also not on our side and it completely overcast and foggy and we both knew that it will snow sooner or later.

As we reached the first bend we both knew what lay ahead for us. Yesterday there was a small crossing of water and now it has completely frozen and this is just the beginning of the 7km climb. We carefully negotiated it and proceeded further ahead. Soon it started snowing pretty decently. There was black ice everywhere on the road, one wrong step and you will surely fall. Slowly slowly we moved ahead and finished the first 5kms. In between I stopped once to correct the position of tangbag when Nitin went ahead.

Then came another very trickiest section of Black Ice and the most difficult 30minutes of my whole trip. Malling was tough at night but in the end we managed it without any hiccups. For the first time in the last 5km I took a wrong line and went straight in the section which was so slippery that it was getting difficult to even stand properly on foot. Couple of wheelspin and it didn’t came out, the rear was just spinning and sliping and sliding. In the meantime the snowfall also increased considerably. I took a deep breath get off from the bike and tried again still no luck, couple of occasion it almost fell but somehow I managed to keep the heavily loaded bike upright. The temperature was well below 0degree but even then I started sweating because of the heavy physical input which started draining me out and I started breathing profusely. Honked quite a few times to check whether someone can hear me out or not but sadly no luck.

Finally I decided that I will try one more time and I have to take the bike out at any cost. Untied the entire luggage and opened my complete riding gear and kept it aside. I prayed for success to Changla baba and with one deep breath I tried again and this time I finally managed to take it out of the no friction zone and put it back on a better patch of black ice. But while putting all this effort snow went inside my body and specially inside my shoes and I could feel that everything is going numb and very soon I will lose all the sensation. Tied back the luggage as soon as possible and rode all the way to the top as quickly as possible.

Nitin was waiting for me looking very worried and could see the sense of relief in his face after he saw my bike coming. I badly needed warmth to proceed any further Luckily there was an army camp with a natural heater where we stopped for next one hour or so to get all my senses back. I have a tendency of getting frostbites very easily hence my situation worsened so much. The army guy over there told us this exact words “Itne subah kyun aa gaye marne ko” means “Are you guys fool to come so early in the morning” but then we had no other option as we had to reach Drass today at any cost.

The ride down was uneventful and much easier other than the frequent oncoming traffic of tourists who started to make their way to Pangong Tso for the day. Regrouped again at Zingral and then sped to Leh without any stops. Reached Leh by 10.30 and getting back the stuffs and taking breakfast we could start only at 12 from Leh. Some more time wasted at the ATM which had a long queue but in the end we decided that we will take out money somewhere on way and its better to ride in daylight as much as possible.

The peak up there is Changla Pass waiting for you



The ride to Khalste was quick other than on one occasion where we again got stuck in the middle of a Army convoy. From Khalste we took a new route to Kargil via Batalik and Hambotingla Pass which though around 30km longer but supposed to have good roads and very less traffic.

The next 50km to Batalik was like a rerun of Spiti valley with Barren mountains all around and a violent river to give you company all throughout the way. We reached Batalik by 4.00p.m where nowadays Maratha regiment is posted. Nitin soon striked a conversation with them and it the meantime it started raining heavily. We were a bit worried as we had another 160odd kms to do before we call it a day at Drass. They said rain won’t stay for long and till that time join us for tea and snacks. We happily obliged as 240odd kms from the morning had started showing its toll on the body. We joined them for tea over the stories of Kargil and their daily life. On asking till what point Pakistani troops had come in they showed the hill right next to the base and said shelling was happening from the top of this hill. We both looked at each other in disbelief.

The rain did stop in half an hour. We bid goodbye to them, they wished us for the rest of our journey and said be careful for the next 30odd kms as it will keep on going upwards and the road conditions are unknown.

The next 30odd kms was indeed all uphill all the way to Hambotingla Pass but the road though very narrow was in pretty decent condition and did I tell you that this section has the maximum number of water crossings. We crossed five decently big water crossing and numerous smaller ones. After the first two I knew where exactly the water crossing will come. Basically you will see a water stream going downwards and down the straight you will have a U turn for the other side of mountain. This is the where you will find all the water crossings in this section. On one such occasion I was expecting a real big one seeing the flow of the stream but luckily there was bridge constructed over that stream right at that bend.

Hambotingla Pass which comes after Batalik on way to Kargil



Just like all other Himalayan sections this section is also very unique and its very green all the way up to the Pass and after the barren stretch to Batalik we both were least expecting this sudden change. Pity that I could not take my camera out for the whole day because of all the riding and km munching.

Reached Kargil at around 7.45 and finally we took out cash from ATM and refuelled again. Now the final 60km dash to Drass which will happen in darkness but we both were quite ok with it because the roads were known to us.

We decided unless not needed we won’t stop in between and will head straight to Drass. The first 50km was done in very quick time but then we got stuck in heavy traffic. Basically two trucks got stuck in a pool of water and slush and there was way for other to go from both side. We two having the advantage of riding two wheels slowly preceded forward and manage to sneak out between the trucks. It took almost an hour to cross the whole section and the clock read 10p.m by that time. I said to Nitin what if we reach Drass and found that everything is closed since its quite late for a small place like Drass to remain open. More than the sleep we need something for our stomach we had been riding thinking that lets reach Drass then we will have something.

With this doubt in mind we proceeded further for the final 10kms. Informed the nearest Army post about the traffic behind and the reason for that. We reached Drass in another 15minutes and both of us were shocked. Forget closure, everything is open and its teeming with people on streets. We straightaway head to our lovely host Alibhai and he informed us that Zozilla was closed at 6p.m and because of which many tourists going for Amarnath Yatra are stuck here and rooms are also full so most of the people are trying to adjust in some place or another. Ok so here’s another surprise for us but before we could think as where we will stay for the night Alibhai offered us to stay as his place. We were more than happy to get that offer. Thanked him for his lovely gesture.

But in the end we actually got a hotel room as someone left it and were heading somewhere at night only. Had a tasty dinner at Ali bhai’s place and went to sleep by 12

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Day 18th – 3rd July – Drass – Udhampur – 395km

There were no fixed plans for the day and we just wanted to ride as close to Amritsar to that on the last day we had very less kms to do. The weather was good and so are the roads so we knew that we won’t face any real challenges and things should go smoothly unless there is some unforeseen situation. Both Srinagar and Ananatnag were running curfews and that was our only concern but we were hopeful that tourist traffic shouldn’t get affected because of that.

Our stay at Drass



Started at 9.30 and made it to Srinagar in little over 3hours after some stopovers. Srinagar looked completely different from what we saw a week back. The main city was closed and only the tourist traffic was allowed via the Dal road which will directly take you out of the city. All the shops and other buildings were closed and there were only handful of tourists around the lake.

Sonamarg



Clean waters of Sindh river famous for its white water rafting at Sonamarg



We made smooth progess till Anantnag which was no different and the situation looked more tense than Srinagar with army checking all the vehicles going through. We decided that we won’t stop till we reach Jawahar.

Reached Jawahar by 2.30 and stopped for lunch just 4km before the tunnel besides the Titanic view point. Met a group of army guys who also stopped at the same Dhaba for lunch. Patiently answered their questions about our journey through Spiti and Leh. They were mighty impressed and wished us for our remaining leg.

We started again and as soon we crossed Jawahar got stuck in a huge traffic jam. There were cars, trucks, buses parked wrongly on the road. People were singing and dancing on the road. Most of people were Amarnath devotees and since there was a traffic jam so they were trying to enjoy it in their own way. It took us around one and half hour to cross the section of 7-8km. Looking at the traffic condition we were sure that most of these guys will spend their night at that place as it seemed most of them were not even complaining.

Rest of journey was smooth. Crossed one destination after another and reached Udhampur by 8.30p.m. I wanted to proceed further till Pathankot but Nitin was not in a mood to ride any further. Finally I too gave in. Settled in a hotel for 600bucks for the night and had a very nice non-veg dinner.

Day 19th – 4th July – Udhampur – Amritsar – 230km

Today we have 230odd kms to do and our target was to reach Amritsar max by 2 to get ample time to book the bike in train and if in the mood visit Golden Temple.

Started at 9a.m and amid some light rains reached Jammu border. Today we were lucky enough and we didn’t faced any traffic and a smooth passage from J&K to Punjab. Stopped to rehydrate ourselve as in two days we have come from a temperature as low 2-3degree to almost 40degree. The heat was killing both of us and we wanted to reach Amritsar as soon as possible. Nitin had a pomegranate juice as he wanted to try something different but it had more negative effect on him than positive which we soon find out.

Nitin becomes popular wherever he goes



As we crossed Pathankot Nitin complained that he is not feeling well because of stomach pain and dizziness, actually the pomegranate juice on empty stomach acted on him.Had water and rested for 30minutes and he was ready to go again. The next 80km to Amritsar we did nonstop and reached Amritsar at 1.30p.m.

Booked the bike and boarded Golden Temple mail for the journey back to home.

Thus finished the non-stop seventeen days of riding into the heart of Himalaya which every biker cherishes to accomplish one day.

“A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step.” – lao tzu

This is what turned the mere plans & discussions of two friends into a pleasant reality.

The apprehensions & fears of completing two individual circuits,
LEH + Lahual-Spiti at one go gave way to a sense of achievement & confidence in oneself.

Travel has a way of stretching the mind. The stretch comes not from travel's immediate rewards, the inevitable myriad new sights, smells and sounds, but with experiencing firsthand how others do differently what we believed to be the right and only way
And so, though this journey wasn’t one of self discovery it did teach us one or two things about ourselves hitherto unknown to us.

Both of us have travelled before, significantly, but something of this particular trip will forever be etched onto our minds
As they say,I have wandered all my life, and I have traveled; the difference between the two is this -- we wander for distraction, but we travel for fulfillment.

The journey,travel blog ,motorcycle ride – call it anything you want but travel we did & fulfilled atleast a part of our dreams.
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Happy to finally finish this log after ages

As I said that I'm glad to finally complete it

And about Leh I'm going there very soon with a new mission

Haha finally some kick to myself to finish this log

You bet. Glad that you liked the log and pictures