Wow.. nice photographs! Please include road conditions in your logs.

Nice photos, Would like to know whether u had been to Nagapatinam ?

Guys, sorry for the delay.
Completely overwhelmed with work after getting back.
I wrote a longish log on my blog. Will post a trimmed down version with relevant content here.

@jovara, yes I went through Nagapatinam. Did not stop though.
Here's the route map: Bike Ride - Coastal Tamil Nadu - Dec 2010 - Google Maps

@baz6255, please zoom in the route map above. It is a straightforward route.

Day 0: Bangalore - Chidambaram

Route Map

Route Map (Click on the map to see interactive map)
Dec 25th, 2010

Km 0 (0)Bike Trip - KeralaKm 20 (20)Foggy Highway
Km 59 (59)Almost Clear Sky
Km 85 (85)Km 92 (92)

The right to Pondicherry looms ahead even as I am contemplating. Straight ahead is well laid, multi-lane, divided but boring toll highway to Chennai. Towards the right is the undivided and probably pothole filled Pondicherry road. However on that lies the fort city of Gingee.
Knowing my inclination for the smaller roads I turn right.
Such roads may not be tempting for the traveller who arrives at a destination, but they are surely good for a rider who is there for the journey.
The road condition deteriorates immediately. Negotiating potholes and bad patches I head on.
Km 142 (142)

The road is still bad while the scenery improves. Unlike the recently built divided toll highways, trees line the road and make for good stopping point.
Tree Lined Road
Stopping under one such tree, I stretch out and have a closer look at the map. It is time to form an idea on the route I would take for the day. After some pondering, turning south from Gingee looks interesting.
Resting Stop
Km 190 (190)

My growling stomach forces a stop. I polish off an orange I have kept in my bags. It is getting hot, so I remove the sweater and jacket. Wanting to relax a little more, I lie down and stretch out on a parapet. There is a small stream of dirty water flowing on the other side. The sound of flowing water makes me drowsy and before I know it I am asleep.
I wake up cold. The sun is gone, covered under a thick layer of clouds. Overcoming the urge to laze around more I mount and head on.
Km 208 (208)

Thiruvannaamalai is the biggest city on the route so far.
From the outskirts I can see a city with important temples.
Lots of yogis and tourists are walking to the road. Surprisingly there are a lot of foreigners roaming around the city. Signs of some famous ashram in the vicinity.
For me, it is no different from the innumerable small village in India which have grown haphazardly into medium-sized towns.
There are branded stores along the main road indicating adequate economic potential in the city.
Nothing much to interest me in a place like this.
Km 248 (248)

Gingee. I have been looking forward to see this place since I came down this road in early 2006.
The road goes through the fort. You can take a right (coming from Bangalore) and drive inside to get to various temples other parts of the Rajagiri fort. On the left there is a small parking space. After parking you can walk up to additional structure which are located further inside.
I first turned right and spent some time looking at the structures on the left.
Shiv Temple At Gingee
Simian Rider

Abandoned Temple
Deciding against walking up to the fort on the other side, I clicked a picture from the parking lot.
Gingee Fort
Turning south from Gingee, the roads instantly improve.
Km 273 (273)Rock-cut Temple
Temple Side Lake
Rock-cut Temple's Priest

After a much-needed rest I move on.
Km 300 (300)

After roaming around and getting lost a few times I manage to get out of Villupuram. It is funny how people in medium to large towns often misdirect you while in smaller cities and villages the directions are pretty much spot on.
The roads deteriorate after Villupuram and the entire day of riding has my ass hurting.
On reaching Panruti, I decide to head towards Chidambaram. The target is to get to Pichavaram. Night stay is being planned at the guest house there.
Km 357 (357)Km 384 (384)

Taking the Chidambaram bypass I head to Pichavaram.
Pichavaram can be reaching by heading east from the NH 45A around 5 Km in the direction of Cuddalore from Chidambaram. The village is about 12 Km after you get off NH 45A.
Pichavaram is the second largest Mangrove forest in the world. These mangrove trees have their roots a few feet of water.
Though I saw lots of boards touting eco-tourism, the only thing of interest was the boat ride. The amount of plastic garbage strewn around the boat house area did not indicate any eco friendliness.
There was no lodge at the place and I was to find out the next day that the forest department lodge had been closed down.
The queue for boating was long with several student groups queued up.
Deciding against a boating attempt, I turn back to Chidambaram to hunt for accommodation for the night.
On way back, the sunset was pretty over the flooded paddy fields.
Sunset Over Paddy Fields
Km 406 (406)

In Chidambaram, I first went to the bus stand area as most of the smaller cheaper lodges are located there. To my surprise, non of them was willing to give a room. Most had excuses that either there was no vacant room or that the only rooms available was for 4-6 people. One hotel asked for Rs6000/- for a dingy room, clearly wanting to dissuade me from taking the room.
After trying around 10 places, I head back towards the outskirts where I had seen a lodge on my way in to the city.
It is here that I found a room for Rs315/-. It cost me Rs320/- as the guy did not return the change and I did not insist.

After a bath and some rest, I washed my t-shirt. GIven that I was travelling extremely light, I wanted to have fresh clothes around.
I then went down and talked with the guard.
After asking him referrals for dinner, I head out.
After searching for the places Ramubu recommended and not finding anything interesting, I found a place called Kareem with fresh parontha being made in a large tawa at the entrance. I went in wanting to eat some non-veg.
I ask for parontha and fish. The waiter seemed surprised and went to call the owner who explained to me that it was a pure veg place.
Being extremely hungry I asked him to bring whatever he had. In the end I had a feast of 6 paronthas, 1 omelet, 1 tea and lots of sambhar like curry and coconut chutney.
Stuffed I went back to the room and dozed off going over the maps. Sometimes later I woke up to switch off the lights.
Links

Thats a wonderful ride, I had the road trip almost at the same time (28th) till Nagapattinam and back, I took the complete Coastal roads

Cheers and keep riding

Thanks Ramesh.
That coastal ride must've been great. Share some pics.

Day 1 - Chidambaram to Point Calimere

Dec 26th, 2010

Km 412 (0)

A weird sound woke me up at 0400. Knowing that I am only one on the floor, I step out to check. No light and no sound. After checking down on my bike, I go back to sleep to wake up again at 0600.
Soon I am out of the place leaving my bags in the room.
I first head towards the city to have a closer look at the famous shiv temple. Unlike last evening, there is enough space to maneuver the bike and enough light to take some pics.
The large wheel of the chariot was really impressive.

Large Wheel of the Rath

Shiv Temple at Chidambaram
Km 431 (19)


The govt ticket booth is still not open, though it is supposed to open at 0700. I negotiate a ride with a boatman who is repairing his boat.

After crossing the wide stretch of water, we entered a narrow passage flanked by Mangrove forests.
Mangrove Forests
As we slow down, I strike a conversation with Swami, my boat man. He knows a smattering of Hindi and English which he picked up from tourists. At the age of 25, he had been working as a boatman at this boat house for four year. Prior to that he was in school and dropped out after class 8.
Kids dropping out of school was something I would find everywhere during this ride.
The government owned the boat and paid him Rs40/- for every ride

Swami
We talked about the mangrove, the tsunami six years ago, fishing and the animals in the mangrove forest.
He pointed me to the tide mark and the fact that it was low tide at that time, all the while rowing the boat.

High Tide Mark
After a while, he stopped the boat under a shady overhang and we quietly settled down comfortably to listen to the sounds of the forest. The trees were full of birds, especially parakeets.
Click here to hear the bird sounds.
After a while I fished out an apple and pear from my pocket and we shared our breakfast all the while enjoying the shade and the sound.
It probably was everyday thing for him, but for me it was a novelty. I would dream of Huckleberry Finn and his boat ride that day.



Shaded Overhang
On our way back I request Swami to try my hand at rowing. It was his turn to hesitate. However, my persistence paid off and he handed the oars to me and we switched places.
The boat was very similar to the rowing boats of Nainital with which I have had ample of practice several years ago.

Pichavaram Boat House
Back with my feet firmly on ground, I think of the day ahead. My friend DJ is from Mayiladuthurai, a nearby town. I decide to pay him a visit before heading to Point Calimere.
Now if you look at the map, Point Calimere or Kodigeri looks extremely interesting. It is on a piece of land jutting out into the sea surrounded by salt pans. Far from any big city and its associated cacophony.
But first I must call up DJ to see if he got home from Bangalore. After confirming, I head towards the hotel to pick my bags.
Km 446 (34)

Back at the hotel, it takes me a few minutes to pick up my stuff and head out. It is warm, so I dress light but still making sure I am wearing full sleeves.
Km 458 (46)

The roads are in great condition and weather excellent. Driving at a moderate speed I enjoy the sun and the fleeting wind. It is fun driving past the fields.

Road to Mayiladuthurai
The wide and smooth road is often interrupted by small villages where the road narrows and potholes predominate.
I cross one such village where the road is flanked by cane furniture shops. There are so many shops that I wonder how much the competition would drive down the prices.
Km 491 (79)

Mayiladuthurai gives me a jumbo welcome.
Km 506 (94)

At Akkur, I turn towards Tranquebar or Tharangambadi. The desire to have a look at the old fort pull me towards the place.
Km 519 (107)

Tranquebar fort is a small fort, much less impressive in reality than in the photographs. The yellow painted walls gives impressions of a recent construction which is far from true. The fort was built by the Danish in 1620 A.D.

Tranquebar Fort
The fort is located right on the water front and the incoming breeze promises a pleasant evening.
However, when I arrived at the fort, the sun was unbearably hot and the dark museum provided relief from the heat.
Km 558 (146)

Post Tranquebar the roads are excellent.

I make good time and soon am past Karaikal to arrive at Nagapattinam. The map directs me towards Velankanni which looks like a place I can ask for on way to Point Calimere.
At Nagapattinam the roads are confusing and there is no bypass. I wander around the city and end at a large bridge which overlooks a fishing harbor.

Nagapattinam Harbor
After asking for directions a few times, I am directed towards a small road which would take me to Velankanni.
The road is narrow and full of potholes which are full of water.
I am forced to slow down as I negotiate the potholes without crashing.
At a sign board, I turn left to arrive at Velankanni.
Velankanni seems a major pilgrimage with shrine dedicated to Our lady of Good Health
To my surprise there is a huge mela going on in the town.

Velankanni Shops
There are crowds of pilgrims all over making driving a hazardous task. I go far enough in the town to see the shrine and take a few pictures, before heading south again towards Point Calimere.

Church at Velankanni
Past Velankanni, the roads improve dramatically.

The terrain change drastically as I head towards Vedaranyam. The road is surrounded by water filled low lying areas.

Submerged Grave
The fields are greener. Driving is pleasurable again.

Road to Point Calimere
However, soon the green fields give way to dry land with salt deposits all over.
I start wondering about a place to stay at night. Behind me is Velankanni with its numerous hotels and lodges. Up ahead is Vedaranyam where I may find a lodge while the road ends at Point Calimere with its forest guest house.
Intermittently there are small covered shacks which look abandoned. I could pull up next to one of those and sleep there.
Km 617 (205)

The road ends at Point Calimere with its few shops and a forest guest house. The entire place is empty but I need a go ahead from the local forest officer to get a room. I call him up and am asked to call after 15 min.
So I head down to the beach deciding to walk the small distance.
The sand is rough and is littered with shells and other debris. Fortunately there is little plastic. This is not a beach for tourists. It is primarily a docking yard for the fishermen with old boats and fishing nets dumped all over.
I hail a couple of young boys who are passing by to strike a conversation. One of then was called Ranjit. The other boy's name too complex to remember.

Ranjit and his friend
We talk about what they do, where they live, where I come from and other small talk. It seemed talking to me was a prestige thing for them as they beamed at other passing fishermen.
Like Swami in the morning they had dropped out of school to start work as fishermen.
They offered (for a price) me a ride in their boat which I declined.
After a while I headed back to the guest house. The lighthouse in the distance looks inviting. Later when I visit, I find it to be out of bound for visitors.

Point Calimere Light House
At the guest house, the caretaker has got a confirmation from the boss. So I sign the register and pick a room.
After dumping my bags, I take a shower before heading out again for the sunset. This time, I decide to take the bike and head towards the pier adjoining the beach.
Km 618 (206)

Parking the bike near the pier, I stroll towards the smelly area. Not being used to the predominantly rotten fish smell, I cringe my nose and take some time to acclimatize.
Once I recover, I experience one the the most beautiful sunset I have ever seen. The pictures from my measly P&S camera need no commentary.
I linger on till the sun has descended below the horizon and then head back to the guest house. On way, I take a diversion to the light house, only to return from the gate.
Km 619 (207)Km 620 (208)

Day end


Links

Day 0 - 25th Dec 2010: Bangalore to Chidambaram (412Km) (Photographs)
Day 1 - 26th Dec 2010: Chidambaram to Point Calimere (208Km) (Photographs)
Day 2 - 27th Dec 2010: Point Calimere to Ramanathapuram (Photographs)
Day 3 - 28th Dec 2010: Ramanathapuram to Kanyakumari (Photographs)
Day 4 - 29th Dec 2010: Kanyakumari to Vathalagundu (Photographs)
Day 5 - 30th Dec 2010: Vathalagundu to Bangalore (Photographs)
All Photographs (Coastal Tamil Nadu - Dec 2010)
Interesting Photographs (Coastal Tamil Nadu Selected - Dec 2010)
Route Map (Interactive)(Image)

The pics & log is Awesome. Really liked it buddy. Eagerly waiting for Day 3 action.

BTW what camera you used?

Thanks Rak. I use a Canon SD870.

The pics are really nice I am simply surprised to see a point shoot camera with amazing picture quality.
Did you edit the images in Picasa or any other tool before posting it here?(Dont guess me wrong but I am really curious to know about it).

Yes most of the good ones are edited especially crop and border.
However, if you look at the pictures closely you will not be surprised that they are from a P&S.
See here for the good ones: Bike Ride (Coastal Tamil Nadu) - Dec 2010 - Selected - a set on Flickr
I am sure you have noticed that the good ones are mostly silhouettes. Now if you look closely, all of them have high DOF and no details in the dark areas.
There is nothing in the pics which require a high end camera to shoot.
For these kind of pics a P&S is as good as a a DSLR.
The others (non silhouettes) are processed to give a antiquated look where noise (weak point of P&S) becomes a virtue rather than a fallacy.

That said, there are photographers who shoot better pictures with a P&S then I can shoot with a DSLR.

Thanks for the info buddy. Waiting for rest of the log.

Superb thread!

Very interesting log and very informative too. Waiting for Day 3 eagerly

Thanks MG.
Next day cominmg up.

Day 2 - Point Calimere to Ramnathpuram (viw Rameshwaram)



Km 620 (0)

I slept late till 0600 waking up a few times at night to flip the clothes. It helps them dry faster.The clothes are still wet when I am ready to leave so I pack them in a polyethylene bag.
I first go to the beach to see if there is a possibility of catching the sunrise. Driving all the way over the sand, I park near the water.
Morning clouds and sun at Point Calimere
Km 624 (4)

Yesterday on way I had seen a watch tower meant for looking at migratory birds. I park off the road and take a short walk to the tower taking the last of my Bangalore apples for breakfast.
The watchtower is a rickety affair. Halfway up I have second thought about climbing up but I gather enough courage to keep going and reach the top.
The gentle swaying of the tower makes me regret the decision to climb. I plant myself firmly in the middle carefully avoiding the small hole with weak edges.
Bird Habitat

The view from the top was nothing to boast about. I could see far into the marsh land dotted by small lakes and trees. In the distance I could see several birds flocked together. However, they were too far away for a good look. A pair of binoculars would have been useful.
I stand there for a while munching on the apple. Occasionally a stork or a pelican would fly by with the its magnificent wings glittering white as snow in the light of the sun peeping from behind the clouds.
After finishing the apple, I linger longer for chances to see more of the birds flying by. All seem to be congregating at the flock far away like a morning school assembly.
Returning from the tower, I drive towards Vedaranyam stopping on way to click the salt for memory.
Salt Factory
Km 629 (9)Km 633 (13)

At Vedaranyam, turn west towards Tagattur. This outskirt is the affluent outskirt of the city. Big houses with bigger Kolam line a wider road separated by fields.
The road is excellent and ,with no traffic, it is fun to drive on. The road has a twin dividing line the purpose of which eludes me.
Unique Road Dividing Line
Km 646 (26)

The morning drive has been excellent. The morning has a slight chill and the warm sun on the back feels good.
Past Vedaranyam, the road is flanked by water bodies (either a small lake or pond of a canal). White lotus add beauty to the serene landscape of water, coconut trees and blue skies.
Serene View
Km 663 (43)

After crossing Tagattur the road condition deteriorates. I also find myself lost. I probably took a wrong turn among the many intersections I crossed.
After pulling over, I take out both my maps and cross-reference to locate myself and find a way to Muthupet. After a few minutes of study, I find myself getting nowhere. As I am contemplating using the GPS and google maps, a person going the other way stops to ask in clear English whether he can help me.
I explain to me that I need to get to Muthupet. He seemed surprised and explained to me that I was further north than I should be and directed me towards Thiruthuraipoondi from where I could take the East Coast Road (ECR).
Km 665 (45)

2 Km down I join the ECR and turn south towards Rameshwaram.
The road is excellent partly divided and partly undivided twin lane. On this day the traffic was minimal and I could do with minimal concentration on the road with my instinct doing most of the work.
Km 689 (69)

ECR bypasses most towns and Muthupet is no exception. The excellent road continues and I make good time driving at a constant speed.
Km 723 (103)

Petrol break. I also rest a while under the pump overhang.
Km 730 (110)

The sea is now been visible on the East. Watching out for a way to the water I take a narrow mud path to the water.
To my disappointment (I wonder why I expected sand) there is no sand. The path ends in slush with boat parked on water.
A fisherman surprised at seeing me, comes to me and wonders what I am doing there. I ask for beach and he laughs pointing me in the direction I am coming from.
We exchange a few words, with him exercising the few words of Hindi he knew.
Slush Coast
On way back to the main road, I see two kids sharing a packet of chips. At the sight my stomach started protesting at its step motherly treatment. Having eaten only an apple since morning it was time to grab some grub.
Km 736 (116)

When I stop at a small but crowded junction, the shadows are no longer long. As usual the most crowded place was my criterion. For Rs 14/- I devoured 4 paronthas and a glass of tea.
As I ate, I had the ring side seat of the paronthas being made.
First dough is turned into a thin and large sheet, by a combination of rolling and tossing. Then by holding the center, lifting the middle like a tent it is converted into a long tube with folds. This is then twisted into a spiral. The spiral is gently rolled on before cooking. Not to mention that these guys do it extremely fast making one parontha in less than 15 sec.
Making Paronthas
With the stomach ready to doze off, I start again.
Km 752 (132)

The road again run parallel and close to the sea. I am on the watch for a way to the water and a secluded tree where I can rest and possibly sleep for a while.
Couple of attempts yield no results. There are pretty much no trees. The few ones I find are either in the vicinity of numerous temples that are mushroomed all over or too dirty to relax around.
Tamil Nadu is probably a state where if you close your eyes and walk a Km in any direction you are likely to hit a temple.
Fishermen's Coast
Km 808 (188)Km 836 (216)

Large sign boards encourage the drivers to take the bypass to Ramnathpuram and head towards Rameshwaram. I am happy to oblige for Dhanushkodi is my destination.
Past Ramnathpuram the road condition is still excellent and the surroundings more interesting. There are large institutes (naval, research, marine) surrounded by small towns.
Unfortunately I pay little attention and hurry up towards Rameshwaram stopping a while on the bridge to see what is crowd is stopping to see.
Km 897 (277)

The city is larger and more commercialized than I expected. After checking out a few lodges with negative outcome, I head towards Dhanushkodi.
Km 915 (295)

Dhanushkodi is little more than 20 Km from Rameshwaram.
After sometime, the road is flanked by sea on both sides with walls protecting the road at places. The road is excellent and the primary traffic is of tourists.
Unless you have a 4x4 you cannot drive all the way to Dhanushkodi. There is a small parking lot with food shops and gift items a few Km from the actual village ruins. From there one can take a ride on a 4x4 jeep or a truck to the actual village.
After looking for a safe parking place for the bike (somewhere I can leave the saddle bags), I park near a small shack where an old man and his wife are frying fish.
The smell is salivating enough for me to delay the rush to catch the next truck and relish the fish.
After informing the old man, that I am parking the bike in front of their place, I hurry to catch the truck.
There is chaos and rush to catch the truck among the tourists. I manage to sneak in and secure a seat on the benches in the next truck. However, I give it up to an elderly tourist in exchange for standing on the foot board, holding a thick rope.
The ride is bumpy with several ups and downs. Holding on the foot board is difficult but provides a better view. It is fun. Ruins are visible on the way and so is the abandoned railway track.
At the village, there are abandoned building and even more small shops selling curios.
The ruins at Dhanushkodi make for good photo subjects. Walking around sand is cumbersome and I soon have sand in my shoes as I navigate around the ruins finding the right angle to avoid lens flare.
Ruined Church
Church Wall made of Coral
Ruins

BikeRideCoastalTamilNadu_284 by Lokesh Shah, on Flickr

BikeRideCoastalTamilNadu_286 by Lokesh Shah, on Flickr

BikeRideCoastalTamilNadu_294 by Lokesh Shah, on Flickr

BikeRideCoastalTamilNadu_288 by Lokesh ShahRameshwaram Temple
Km 932 (312)

After doing an on bike prakrima of the temple, and in the process checking 10-15 lodges, I head out towards Ramnathpuram.
Every cloud has a silver lining. So did my riding away from Rameshwaram. I rediscovered a culinary delight of my childhood.
Just before exiting the city I fill up on gas.
Km 965 (345)

Desperately needing a cup of tea, I stop at a largish bakery.
Looking for something to eat, I ask for a bun. The man behind the counter point me to a stack on the corner. Couple of flies buzz around on the buns. Below the stack I spy a few buns individually wrapped in a plastic bag. Uncharacteristic of myself, I opt for the wrapped buns only to discover them to be a packaged variant of bun-malai - a regular bun stuffed with sweet cream.
Something I would relish as a kid.
Cream bun with hot sweet tea - a perfect comfort food makes me hopeful of finding a place to crash at Ramnathpuram.
Km 988 (368)Km 990 (370)

Day end.

Links

Day 0 - 25th Dec 2010: Bangalore to Chidambaram (412Km) (Photographs)
Day 1 - 26th Dec 2010: Chidambaram to Point Calimere (208Km) (Photographs)
Day 2 - 27th Dec 2010: Point Calimere to Ramanathapuram (370) (Photographs)
Day 3 - 28th Dec 2010: Ramanathapuram to Kanyakumari (Photographs)
Day 4 - 29th Dec 2010: Kanyakumari to Vathalagundu (Photographs)
Day 5 - 30th Dec 2010: Vathalagundu to Bangalore (Photographs)

All Photographs (Coastal Tamil Nadu - Dec 2010)
Interesting Photographs (Coastal Tamil Nadu Selected - Dec 2010)
Route Map (Interactive)(Image)