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Quest to Dayara and the Call from Harsil

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  • Quest to Dayara and the Call from Harsil

    Quest to Dayara and the Call from Harsil

    I have joined my colleague Akram on his ride to Garhwal from 22-26 of this Jan.
    This was a journey which I would never forget when I came to know what a winter means!

    Even after 25000 kms of riding, there was a time when the fear of survival crept into my mind. I grew up with each ride of mine but this one has given me a lesson.

    Prologue:Day1, 22nd JAN: Chandigarh-Paonta Sahib-Yamuna Bridge-Naugaon-Barkot-Raari-Uttarkashi

    Second phone call to Akram revealed that he is putting on shoes which took another 30 mins for him Anticipating some bad stretch with black ice I was willing to hit the road as early as possible but we could not make it before 5:45.Only a few kilometers of ride and we realized that a warmer+ a T shirt + a shirt + a pull over and 2 jackets were not enough to mitigate the chill in a January morning. The fingers and feet were having the worst phase of their own lives. It was still some time to day light when we reached Kala Amb. The shivering souls of ours have altered our plan of having breakfast at Vikas Nagar. A 30 mins break and we were again swinging on the smooth curves of Nahan after bumpy Kala Amb. As per my own customs a couple of shots at a hair pin bend on the way. Each time I find a different view of low rise hills from there, this time it was quite mesmerizing:

    Near Nahan:


    After this I shifted the two wheeled beauty to what is this meant for and we throttled hard along the lonely roads of Nahan to Paonta Sahib to Vikas Nagar. Passing through the forest towars Yamuna bridge is a different feeling in itself:

    Before Yamuna Bridge:


    Approaching Yamuna Bridge:


    We constantly approached towards Yamuna Bridge and then towards Naugaon ignoring the right side turn to Mussoorrie.

    Reached Rautela Dhaba after Naugaon, the two hungry riders satiated their empty fuel containers with the finger licking Kadhahi Paneer and Dal Fry. A break at Rautela Dhaba is much recommended. We left the place by 1:45.

    View of peaks near Yamunotri dham, after Rautela Dhaba:




    The ride so far was quite easy and non happening. We crossed Barkot and started ascending the Raari top amidst aroma of pine trees and red carpet of dry leaves. As expected before few kms from the top there was snow all over and we were riding on the hard snow with twists and turns. On a right side curve with ascent I heard a honking vehicle from behind the curve which was supposed to be a bus. On hearing it, I started honking also We both stopped, looked at each other and realized that I have no option but to get a little back. Provided very little space, I shifted to extreme left. The driver shifted to the lower gear after few attempts and started gliding slowly right towards me My scared eyes were glued to its tires and watching if I need to runaway from my bike the very moment when it leaves the traction. Thank God nothing happened like this and the bus passed. Oooff!!! That was really scary. Hats off to the driver.

    The road near the Raari Top:








    Descending from the top:





    After some rear swing and foot tappings we crossed the white stretch and started descending towards Brahma Khal and then towards Uttarkashi, as usual we headed straight towards Shivlinga Tourist complex for night stay. Dinner at Bhandari restaurant and then we dozed off.

  • #2
    Travelogue approved.
    (Been There Done That) x 3.25

    Comment


    • #3
      wonderful start, waiting for the next lot...
      http://picasaweb.google.com/tilkusoni
      A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving. lao tzu
      Travel HARD or STAY at Home........

      Comment


      • #4
        Day2, 23rd JAN: Uttarkashi-Bhatwari-Barsu-Night stay on the way to Dayara Bugyal


        We woke up a little late by 7 as Mr Pratham who was supposed to take us to Dayara Bugyal has promised to meet us at our place at 7.30. He came at around 8 but to our surprise he was not even prepared for the trek, rather he suggested me to take any local guy from Barsu, where the trek starts. Actually I was expecting to get some trekking gears from him, at least shoes for trekking in snow. Disheartened souls called Tilak sir and he asked me to wait for couple of minutes, to our surprise we got a call within a minute from Mr Mahender who asked me to proceed to Barsu and get some food packed form Bhatwari.

        Morning Light captured by Akaram from Shivlinga

        Cricket at Barsu:



        Zoomed view from Barsu:


        Starting the trek:




        Quite a good climb in first 2 kms, it was a little better later, but those 2 kms were enough to sweat us out and we were fighting to catch our breath at every nook and corner. Almost all of my clothes got wet and I had to take off my jacket. A thin snow sheet started just after a few hundred meters which kept on increasing and at few places it was more than a feet. Truly speaking, we were not prepared for it to happen so early, now we were worried about our shoes, because if it gets wet today we will have a bad phase tomorrow.Do I need to tell you that we enjoyed few chuskis of virgin snow. The ambiance was gradually turning into something which reminded me of a fairyland unaware of the fact that I will be in a real fairyland soon.

















        By 6.30 we reached our campsite,the huts made by the locals who used it during summer and monsoon by them as a permanent stay while their cattle roam over the mountains and bugyal. We were just in time, as we approached towards the hut, the sun was busy in what it can do the best for us, i.e. painting the mountains in a the famous golden shades


        Now the next task at hand was to cross the small stretch of 3-4 feet of snow to enter the huts' premises. we entered the hut, Mahender and Vipin (the local lad) already collected dry woods from the jungle and put on fire. As the sun set in the horizon the chill has started. Thankfully we had ample of dry woods. I was feeling better after changing all my wet clothes and 2 cups of black tea.The only water source near the huts was frozen so we heated the snow to make water, ate aloo parathas that we had taken from Bhatwari along with a peg of Old Monk in hot water and gup-shup. The fire was still on when we dozed off at 9.30. Perhaps around 2-3 AM, Akaram started shivering and I had to put on fire again and it took 15 mins for me.









        The next day we woke up to white all over except the trees. It was a delightful sight. Scarcity of getting water forced us to skip brushing our teeth and negotiate our daily activity with the soft snow I will never complain about the cold water in winter from now
        After couple of black teas and awesome soupy magi prepared by Mahender we packed our stuff and set off for our quest to Dayara Bugyal(meadow).









        The Fairyland:





        Comment


        • #5
          waaah, am loving it
          http://picasaweb.google.com/tilkusoni
          A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving. lao tzu
          Travel HARD or STAY at Home........

          Comment


          • #6
            Good pics & awesome trip you'll had there.
            Ride Hard !!! Ride Safe!!! Enjoy every moment on your machine !!! Cheers....

            Comment


            • #7
              Great pics mahn.
              Men who still dream of being a pilot or an astronaut are yet to ride a motorcycle.

              Comment


              • #8

                The chill in the air forced us to stay inside until the warmth of the sun made us to feel comfortable enough to spread our wings and sail through the fairyland. In short we started late at around 9 for Dayara. From now on we were supposed to climb up to Barnala Bugyal and then to Dayara. A few hundred meters in ankle deep snow while we crossed through the forest, afterwards it was more than 2-3 feet. As we were proceeding towards the Barnala Bugyal, the snow was also increasing sometimes even above our knees. It was getting very difficult to walk in that deep snow let alone the climbing. But we were enjoying it fully. We were proceeding towards our first milestone gradually realizing that we might not be able to reach Dayara. With millions of photo break we made upto Barnala Bugyal where Mr Mahendra was waiting for us. A brief discussion with him revealed that we should avoid going further and so we followed his instruction. I forgot to tell you that there was a pleasant surprise waiting for us amidst the beautiful ski slopes of Barnala Bugyal: a pair of frozen ponds.
                It was a sheer beauty walking over the virgin snow with Gangotri and Bandarpuch peaks in the backdrop. I am falling short of words, let the pics describe the beauty of the place:









                The Frozen Pond:











                After an hour, we left Barnala Bugyal with a heavy heart for not making it to Dayara, but whatever we have seen was enough reson to rejoice...

                Some pics while returning from the Barnala to follow soon...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by tilak_soni73 View Post
                  wonderful start, waiting for the next lot...
                  Originally posted by daredemon View Post
                  Good pics & awesome trip you'll had there.
                  Originally posted by dushyant123 View Post
                  Great pics mahn.
                  Thank you friends for appreciating

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Next part is in progress

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Descending from the bugyal was more of a fun. I tried skiing from the top, but did not succeed because of the snow was so soft and thick that it was like diving into it.
                      On the way we had the freshest and the purest water of our life. The virgin fresh snow was melting in the sunlight. We reached the hut where Mr Mahendra and Vipin were waiting for us with the black tea. We had the tea and started our journey back to Barsu in full content. We left for Harsil which was approx 50-60 kms from Barsu at 3.15























                      a Pit stop before Barsu



                      Keeping in mind that it will not take more than 3 hours and we will be able to reach at least Sukkhi Top before sunset we throttled our machines unaware of the uncertainties of the dusk. A small landslide on the way and bad stretch along the abandoned hydro power project took quite some time. I was having mixed emotions while passing through that stretch; was dejected and angry to see the brutality of human with the nature and little uncomfortable to see the empty buts and locked doors in seclusion which felt haunted too. I remember September 2009 this area was filled with numerous trucks, dozers and of course hundreds and thousands of Homo sapiens.












                      Bhaiya yahan rahne ke liye kuchh milega? (can we get the accommodation here?)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        That is some 'WOw' log you have put up there Ranjeet...
                        There are some breathtaking pics in your log. i especially like the 'Hail BikerZone' pic...

                        The Panache you carry is clearly shown in the log...
                        An awesome read i must say...
                        The Fastest Indian!!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          ^ Thanks Prashant for the praise!

                          Day 3 Continued:





                          Last adventurous evening was the enough reason to spend a lazy day in the lap of nature, so we woke up at 8. But as I saw out of the window through the gap between the curtains, I jumped out of the bed. After a few clicks in the freezing wind, we got lukewarm water for cleaning our teeth and washed our faces after 2 days. A bun omelet and magi, we left for Harsil by 9:30. Clean and smooth roads with snow fencing till a kilometer after the bridge on Bhagirathi turned into never ending sheet of black ice. We were mentally prepared for it and hence kept on moving with rear swing and foot tapping. I cannot take on Mother Nature to describe her creation, let me present you a glimpse of it through mere photographs:

                          In front of our room:




                          Before the bridge


                          That the bridge on Bhagirathi, While passing through this place, I realised that we were lucky enough to find something yesterday, because everything was closed when we passed through there.










                          The frozen water stream can give you a hint, what we felt last evening:














                          last 3-4 kms till Harsil we rode at 5-10 kmph only because of the slippery track covered with the hard snow, but we were enjoying every bit of it. We parked our bikes near the entry gate to Harsil and proceeded towards the famous river bed, which I always dream of whenever I think of Harsil. This time the sand field was covered with the thick soft snow.



                          The couple who welcomed us at Harsil:






                          towards the river bed:









                          Gurgling Bhagirathi, though not a good composition, wanted the snow peaks in center:




                          Backlit crowd of pine trees


                          A small pond with a dash of red near the main stream was sufficient enough to get some reflection photographs. Could not get adequate space to have a better compo






                          More pics from the same place. All Pano are taken by Akram's Sony, The Royale canon does not need this






























                          Few pics on our way back from Sukkhi top to Uttarkashi:

                          I hardly remember any vehicle on the way. Some clicks near the abansoned Hydro power project. They have ruined the roads and left







                          At Maneri Dam, near Uttarkashi


                          Day5&6: Uttarkashi -Chamba - Dhanaulti - Dehradun -ChandigarhTreacherous path:











                          Truely yours




                          We woke up to a gold shade in the sky at Dehradun and rode to Chandigarh from 8 Am to 11:30.




                          Something which should be taken care of in future rides/treks:

                          1. The Trek: An 8 kms of trek in winters can turn into an expedition if you are ill prepared. I was pretty casual about the Dayara trek because it has a well defined path and the distance is not that much, but had it not been Mahendra, we would have a very hard time. We never expected above knees snow there. The tip is every winter trek must be preplanned, at least you should have complete and clear information about the place.

                          2. Accommodation: 3. Stop when required: 4. Wet Feet: The most irritating thing one can face on a winter ride is chill pain and/or the frost bite. You cannot get your organ back if suffered with it. Still have no concrete solution for this but try to keep your feet dry by any mean under the sun when mercury is low.

                          5. Roads Vs Plan: Thanks for Reading!!!
                          Ride Safe!
                          Ranjeet

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Nice write-up... enjoyed reading it at this hour

                            And, I just loved the pictures, they're amazing

                            Keep it up. Ride hard and safe
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